Toyota - Electrical-wiring - Camryhybrid :: 2009 - Intermittent Door Lock Failure
Feb 27, 2015
I have a 2009 Camry Hybrid. Both driver side door locks work/fail intermittently. This sometimes does/doesn't happen when i use the inside door panel button, outside door button, outside hand sensor when i grab the door latch, remote control buttons, gear shift . . . etc. I see the driver side locks open/close or not move while I see the passenger side doors lock/unlock correctly.
For some reason, it seems to be a bit better when the weather gets warmer around hear in the northeast. I thought it might have something to do with the integration relay. But I'm not exactly sure where it is. I looked under the dashboard, too many wires!. On the drivers side I have located the fuse box, unplugged most of the wires, plugged them back in and it seemed to work only for a day or two, but the temperature also warmed up on those days.
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My door will not lock..when you hit the remote, the door button or try to push it down..it goes down a little and there is resistance and then it comes right back up. If I use the key it will lock easily, but once you turn the key to get it out it comes right back up. I can hear the motor working, but it feels like there is something stopping it from going all the way down.
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So, I got my explorer about 3 months ago and it has never locked, the door ajar light was always on and I fixed that by using some WD-40.
Now that the door light is off, the explorer beeps once when i lock it using the key fob but it doesn't actually lock. When I use the lock switch in the rear (by the spare wheel tools) it will lock and unlock. The driver's door lock switch won't lock or unlock, the passenger will unlock but won't lock.
Stock alarm system.
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My friend's 2012 Elantra's driver's door lock has started acting up intermittently. Sometimes the door locks, sometimes it doesn't. It won't do it on command so it can't be taken to the dealer to be looked at. Has this problem been cropping up on the 2012 models? He has had it for almost 2 years and has about 22000 miles.
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I have a 2000 f250 super duty. Right now the only problems with it are:
1: When i press the door lock switch the passenger door lock will click and come down about half way but the door still is unlocked. in order to lock it, you have to press the latch down by hand.
2: My key won't unlock or lock the driver's side door from the outside, however it works to start the truck and open the passenger door.
3: When i bought the truck the previous owner game me a handheld wireless unlock and lock button. The little black thing with an alarm button, and it doesn't work either, i replaced the batteries and still nothing. So what would be the solution to fixing all of this?
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Repaired my locks on my F350. Had the motor reversed. Before I figured that out I thought I needed to change the wires in the plug. Changed them and it didn't work, put them back and now the switch on that door does not work for the lock; however, all other switches work. What do I need to fix?
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I am trying to hook up my power door locks to my command start. I am having trouble getting it to work. Ive tried a number of relay diagrams from the12volt.com. I've tried actuators/reverse polarity and it blows both my factory door lock fuse and the fuse I have supplied to the relays. Ive also tried 5 wire alternating 12 volt positive door locks, and 3 wire positive door lock combinations. Both of these combinations the relays click back and forth fine with the actuators unhooked, when I connect the actuators the doors unlock with the factory switch but when I unlock with my remote it blows the fuse. How to properly connect the actuators?
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I have a 2005 excursion with about 112,000 miles and last week all 5 doors decided to stop working on me when trying to lock or unlock with the remote or the door switch. I do hear a sound like something is happening just right of the fuse box. I did a little research and found that this is a wide spread problem. I did order 4 of the 5 actuators and I replaced the drivers door but nothing yet. Do they all have to be replaced in order to work? Or is it most likely something else causing this? Just trying to figure it out before I install the other actuators or take it in to a shop.
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My 96 F-350 Crew Cab driver rear door lock is stuck in the locked position. I don't have a cause but do now notice that the pass door lock will not operate with the lock/unlock switch. The rear solenoids seem dead. Front door locks are working.
I tried to put a 10-32 coupling nut on the lock riser and pull. The down position is now 1/8-1/4" higher than normal. This thing is really stuck and is really bad.
So before I start pulling the rear seat and trying to remove the door panel from a closed door; how I might unlock this door? It would be a lot easier to get the panel off if it is open.
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Headlights work, done and door lights also work. Radio, door locks, and window controls do not. Car will no longer start and it doesn't seem to be the battery or starter, but I may be mistaken.
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My beloved 1995 Dodge Ram Van has intermittent dash panel electrical issues. The gas gauge an speedometer are intermittent, coupled with lights and radio on off too. It It all started when I had the transition services years ago. It has less than 100k mileage.
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I am trying to add courtesy lights to the existing reflectors in the front doors of my supercab. I can't find a wiring diagram that shows where to connect the light sockets. 1999 F250 SD...
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I have a 1997 Expedition that every time I replace the #16 fuse it blows when the high beams are on. It seems that it happens only when in drive and accelerating from a stopped position. I wonder if it could be either the clock spring or the multi-switch cause the short. I checked the wires on the headlights and they are fine. Again the high beams work when the truck is sitting still and the fuse is new.
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New ghost in the machine.
Pulled out of the driveway two days ago to go trailer a wrecked car home. Got about half a mile up the road, and my electrical system started flickering. Engine died, dash went nuts, everything is clicking on and off real fast. This went on for a minute or two, then stopped. After a little internal debate, I decided to continue on.
Ran fine for another mile or so. Hitched up the trailer and checked the lights, everything A-OK. Started rolling down the lane and the truck went dark. Engine shut down, no sign of electrical power anywhere. It was as if my batteries had been suddenly abducted by aliens. Truck stayed dark for about 5 - 10 seconds, then like a switch was thrown all the electric came back on. Dropped the trailer and drove back to the house without incident. Not towing a car like this.
Checked the battery connections. Looked really good and tight. Pulled and cleaned them anyways.
Pulled the fuse box out from under the dash and looked for water damage. Absolutely no sign of moisture or corrosion anywhere on the box or anything else under the dash.
Started the truck and turned every electrical item I could think of on. Truck sat and idled for 15 minutes without a hiccup. Voltage at the batteries was normal. I wiggled wires everywhere with no effect.
Decided to quit for the night. Got into the truck to move it to it's parking spot and POOF, all went dark again. Engine died, heater blower, radio, headlights, interior lights, all dark. About 5 seconds later, everything came back online.
No CEL. No other symptoms. She was either running perfectly or had no juice at all.
I drove it last night to the mechanic I use. 7 miles, bumps, potholes, stop and go traffic, no issues.
Just spoke with the mechanic. They can't reproduce the problem. I told him I can't reproduce it on demand either. I asked that they put it up on the rack and check all the ground points.
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2008 Escape, while driving, the doors will lock/unlock themselves like crazy. Sometimes it's 20 times, others it's 100 times. Sometimes it won't happen for a day or two, sometimes it's every time I drive it. When the car is off, remote works fine, car stays locked. Where to start?
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I am installing power windows and locks in a 1990 F350. The donor truck was a 90 F250.
I got everything switched and all is working except the passenger side door lock switch.
The drivers side lock switch will unlock and lock both doors.
The passenger side will unlock the passenger and drivers side door but will not lock them.
I replaced the passenger side switch with a new one. Upon further checking, I found out that it was a window switch. It still unlocked the door but would not lock it.
Is there a difference between window power switches and door lock switches?
I can ground a pink w/ orange wire on the passenger side switch to the door frame and the switch will work. I have ohmed checked pretty much everything.
Could the drivers side power lock switch be bad. I have looked over a schematic and it looks like the circuit may pass threw the drivers switch to ground.
As I asked before is there a difference between a window and lock switch?
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F250 6.8L .. So Ive read a lot of posts about intermittent cruise control issues. I understand that the most common failure is the brake switch on the master cylinder. My concern is that I am unable to run the cruise control self test I keep reading about. Does this test not work on my model year. I have tried even when the cruise control is working and still the cc light does no come on.
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B1602 PATS Recieved Invalid FMT/Key CD
P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical
P0758 Shift Solenoid B Electrical
P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Fault
P1760 Pressure Control Solenoid A Short
p0305 Cylinder 5 misfire Detected
P0316 Engine misfire Detected on Startup
The Trans will unlock while driveing for a few seconds then lock back up and drive fine, it seems to be worse over the past couple days. It is no different cold or hot. I also noticed the head lights dim and the voltage on my scanner drops to around 12 volts when the trans disengages. When it is not acting up it drives and shifts perfect.
I have checked a few grounds that were visible and cleaned battery connections. There has to be a wire harness or ground that I am missing some where that is bad?? The misfire code has been fixed, not related.
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All of my electric door locks failed over the last 3 months. Rear doors first, then passenger front, then, Drivers front and tailgate. All work manually. What would cause this type of cascading failure? Honda dealer said all actuators must be replaced. Another mechanic said the front drivers side controls all doors and that unit must be replace.
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My landlord's daughter is having some electrical problems with her car, and we're trying to troubleshoot it ourselves. It's a 2006 chevy cobalt with 66,000 miles on it. Here are the issues: 1) The radio's display does not work (you can't see the time or the station). The radio's volume, on/off switch, AM/FM control, and tuner don't work. So, basically, it's stuck on one AM station and she can't do anything about it. 2) Her power locks occasionally lock / unlock themselves when the vehicle is running. 3) This is the most important safety issue right now - there's no power to the pump for her windshield washing fluid. What could it be? Fuses? Wiring? Something else?
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The A/C on my 2009 Honda CRV fail intermittently. I've had the system recharged, checked for leaks, and a relay replaced. Here's what's been happening... only during really warm weather sometimes the A/C just starts blowing hot air. Normally when this happens it resumes working the next day. One time I engaged the defrost and cold air blew out the windshield vents, when I then pushed the a/c button cold air came out the face vents. I was never able to reproduce this though. Also, a few days ago when the a/c failed I deselected the a/c control button and suddenly the air went from hot to ice cold - with the a/c off!
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