Grumbling noise when put in gear and held with brake. When driving, metal on metal screeching noise. At a stop, transmission felt engaged and the engine almost died. Rough shifting from one to two. What parts need to be looked at in the transmission?
View 10 RepliesI have a 2002 Chrysler Voyager with 135000 miles and in good shape. My mechanic has replaced the serpentine belt 3 times in the last 24 months each time using a different manufacturer. The last time was <6 months ago. The tensioner pulley was replaced 10 months when the screeching noise returned as it has each time the belt is replaced. The other pulleys all seem to work fine. I use a small fingernail sized dab of NAPA's "Sil-Glyde" lubricant on the underside of the belt every 150-200 miles. I will use it more frequently if it has rained recently.
-AC works fine and is not associated with this screeching
-PS pump works fine and shows no leaks. Rack has been replaced. PS fluid system flushed and filled with new fluid.
-Alternator runs fine
I just got it and the gauge is showing a little hot. I took it in they found nothing. The fans runs almost all of the time. It even started running when I was sitting in my driveway with it in park (it was about 55 degrees outside at the time). I also hear some grumbling noise in the dash on the drivers side. It sounds like something is trying to work (the radio is off and it still makes this sound).
View 5 RepliesChanged input and output sensor, replaced solenoid pack, cam and crank sensor. Runs good code on odometer 1684 p700.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2008 GX and when the car is in drive and being stopped/held in place with the brakes, it makes a squealing noise, sounds like a loose belt but I don't think it is as it is coming from the transmission area, BEHIND the engine.
View 3 RepliesI have 2006 Pontiac Torrent AWD with front disc and rear drum brakes. My ABS & traction control lights come on together (sometime) when I hit brakes slowly to slow down my car around 20-30km/h with a grumbling/scraping feeling sent to my feet from brake pedal (feel like rumble strip on highway). ABS & T/C lights go away if I shut off engine and restart car. It also happens if I accelerate at that speed. This issue does not happen when I hit brake hard.
View 11 Replies i have a 2000 Chrysler Grand Voyager. So as a preface, I've had some intermittent electrical issues, the wipers all of a sudden started acting odd ,not turning off, the intermittent setting working oddly, or won't return to the park position. So as i pull off the highway to day my van just stops running. I was fortunately close to my destination, and was able to get towed by a friend the rest of the way.
Now here is the odd part, any time there was a load on the tow strap (attached to the motor mount) it tried to start itself, yes i was in neutral, the speedo would act up (jumping from no reading to 120mph), and the wipers started to go!?!?! I've gt a charger on it wondering if I have some issues due to funky battery voltage, other than that I'm not sure what way to go with this.
2002 Chrysler Voyager, 3.3L V6, 133K miles.
I'm experiencing an intermittent total electrical shutdown. Driving at any speed, electrical system cuts out - lights, radio, gauges, motor - everything shuts down for a period of 3-4 seconds, then power is restored. Transmission that has disengaged during shutdown takes a few more seconds to re-engage. This can happen 15-20 times during a 25 mile trip or not at all. Last evening a 25 mile trip to destination w/ no problems. On the return, 6-7 shutdowns in the first few miles, then nary an issue. This morning, in pulling around a block to unload some cargo, 2 cutouts. I do not have to touch the key for the restart.
I have cleaned battery terminals & connectors w/ baking soda, scrubbed them w/ battery brush, coated w/ DiElectric grease, run an auxiliary ground, had the battery load tested (good for 700 cold cranking amps), and taken to the local mechanic who spent a few hours and 3 cruises w/ an analyzer hooked up. Not to worry, no problems manifest when van was w/ mechanic. BTW, no fault codes thrown, no "Check Engine" light appearing. Ignition switch tested as OK.
I am looking to purchase a 1993 Chrysler New Yorker and when I test drove it I noticed that every time the brake pedal was pushed a mechanical whirring noise was audible. This happened every time the brake was pushed whether the car was moving or not. The car brakes seemed to work fine and there were no other noises associated with normal brake problems. The noise seemed to come from inside the car. What that might be? Also, any other reasons to not buy a 93 New Yorker with about 115,000 miles on it for cheap?
View 1 RepliesI bought the car new in '92 and have taken very good car with oil changes and required maintenance. The vehicle just turned 200 K miles, although mechanics have said they have seen these cars top 300 K miles. Noise started about a month ago and was initially noticed after turning off the engine after a 15 mile drive. Started happening more frequently after 10-15 mile drives.
Now it happens on short drives (5-6 miles), but not every time, and not when I brought to my mechanic to examine (figures!). Water was put through the radiator hose to flush out any trapped air, so that is not it. The noise is a cross between a grumbling of both air and water and it goes on for quite awhile. I stayed in the car about 3-4 minutes after shut off and it was still acting up.
My issue is my camry has gotten considerably louder. I know its currently winter but even with good weather and its idle still gets noticeably loud. has like a low grumbling, grinding noise. The car has about 72k miles on it i do my oil change roughly every 5k miles. i put full synthetic 0w-20 into the engine. As of late have been working a lot about 2 weeks ago i checked the oil levels and it didn't register on the dip stick. went to my friends house the next day and did an oil change. added 0w-20. fwe also replaced the valve cover gasket this past sunday as well as the spark plugs. I'm not sure if the lack of oil might've caused this issue or if it has to do with my exhaust system. Sounds more like its coming from the exhaust manifold or somewhere in-between. When we were changing my oil my friend did indicate that my car did touch bottom. I'm not sure the best way to approach this. Should i just take it to the dealer and have them look into why it has become much louder?
2007 Toyota Camry SE I4
72K Miles
0w-20 synthetic oil full
Tonight it was a perfect 72 degrees and I had to run over to a friend's house and pick up my backpack as I didn't feel like riding my bike the ten miles home with that thing on my back. As I usually do when it's nice outside, I opened both front windows and the sunroof and immediately noticed a mid-level pitch grinding noise that comes and goes but is mostly noticeable at low speeds. Initially I thought it was the brakes dragging but it doesn't change with a brake application so I'm guessing it's the front wheel bearings. I'm calling the dealer in the morning to set up a service appointment.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2015 Sonata SE 2.4L with 15k miles. Sometimes when accelerating, and almost always when accelerating uphill, the vehicle makes a noise that I can best describe as sounding like a grumbling or rattle from the engine. It almost has a "diesel engine" sound to it. I have noticed this going back to when the vehicle was brand new, but I have recently noticed it more.
View 11 RepliesMy 2003 Santa Fe makes a grumbling noise when first started, and put into drive or reverse. The noise seems to be coming from the passenger side of the engine compartment. The noise disappears when the drive train has warmed up.
View 4 RepliesI have a weird issue with my 2002 4x2 manual Nissan Xterra...when I drive along (usually happens when I'm in 3rd or 4th gear), and depress the clutch pedal to start slowing down for traffic, while the gear lever is still in the 3rd or 4th gear position, the rpms start coming down as the car coasts, but then a strange grinding/whirring/grumbling noise starts happening. The noise immediately goes away if I pull the gear lever into neutral, OR if I re-engage the clutch to start accelerating again. So, it only happens when BOTH the clutch pedal is depressed, AND the gear lever is "in gear". What could this be? The car has about 115K miles, but I believe the previous owner changed the clutch recently (80-90K), and the clutch itself feels fine.
View 3 RepliesI just installed coilovers on my b6 passat(I will post pics when the problem is fixed)but back to where i started the ride is a big improvement then I thought. I was driving the other day and no problems until i hit a bump in the street/ not pothole. all the coilovers held up except the passenger side the bump dropped my suspension on the passenger side to where it now hits the inner linen in the wheel well it that low that I smell a burning smell when I drive.
View 7 RepliesMY gc started cutting out a few weeks ago while idling in gear. I changed out the four plugs I could get the wires off. It's a v6. It started running better for a couple of days. I need to know of any way to get the stuck boot off. I also have a feeling there is something else wrong. Anything else that might be causing it to cut out. It has progressed to cutting out while going down the highway.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1995 Plymouth Voyager se about a year ago the transmission started acting up, for no reason, it would just go it to First and never come out I would stop turn it off turn it back on again and it would be fine..then days later it would go by, it would do it again. it did this for a while and the good days would turn in to a mile or two then it just decided not to come out of first ever, during this, i took it to a trany shop and rebuilt the transmission it worked for a bout a half hour.
Final a mechanic friend checked the computer again and changed it out with another and it fixed it beautifully!!! ok well about a week ago a very odd loud obnoxious squeal started that sounded like a bottle rocket but not all the time, more often than not though. Before I got a chance to take it to my mechanic friend i was driving along and the transmission slipped in to first and wont that's it. i have been doing emergency trips in first gear and also the horrid squeal is gone. the thing have to be linked what should I try and i don't think its the computer, I really don't want to lose my van
I have a grand voger 1995 and my transmission is not shifting up it stay in one gear. Why does it not shift and is it a easy fix?
View 17 RepliesThe brakes surge with more power when the brake pedal is held at a constant pressure. My guess it has to do with the brake booster. But normally a failing booster would result in less braking ability not more.
View 2 RepliesThe gear shift works fine, and we lifted the hood and saw that the mech. arm IS working when we shift. However, the van will not move into any gear. won't go forward, reverse, etc... it acts like it isn't shifting.
i was driving down the highway, and noticed it wasn't accelerating and stepped on the gas.. .and nothing. I stopped the van, put in park, turned it off. Started it again, and put in D and wouldn't go, just engine revved. then put in reverse and same thing... didn't move but engine revved.