Celica :: 1995 - How To Properly Remove Deployed Airbags
Sep 15, 2011
So I'm trying to figure out how to properly remove deployed airbags from my 1995 Toyota Celica. I know people just cut them out and go from there. But I'm not the type to cut corners when it comes to repairing my car.I would really like to not have to take it to a shop if it's just possible for me to do so myself. Save time & money & I prefer to do my own work on my own car unless it's completely out of my legue. where I can find how to remove my 2 deployed airbags from my car the PROPER way..
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Friend of mine (whom I referred to Lexus) just bought. 15' GS on Friday. Friday night on the way home from the dealer (1 1/2 hour) he hit a 220-250lb 6-point buck/deer on the back road sometime after midnight, not even 3-4 miles from home. He is wondering whether or not insurance will total car. From the looks of it i'm hoping so too and all airbags have been deployed except front right passenger side. I would hate to take a brand new leased vehicle that never even made it home after repair.
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I just bought a 2006 Prius at an insurance salvage auction. I do not have the car yet for more exact details other than what I'm going to describe. The car was listed as a collision with rear damage, it doesn't have a mark on it other than a flat rear passenger tire. No front or side damages yet the driver and front passenger air bags deployed. I was wondering if the previous owner slid into a curb and if there is some sensor to trigger that. The auction listing said it doesn't start or move.
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2000 E150 - I see a pair of airbags listed at a salvage yard with module. Do I need the module? Do the "switches" that set off the airbags reset?
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I bought a 2011 F350 that was in a collision. I have done collision repair before but I have not had to deal with air bags... Both driver wheel and passenger bags deployed. I see some for sale on EBAY for around 300 used....do I just by them and install them? Is there a reset or something else I have to do? I see some sell them with the controller as well...do I need that?
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The car on cruise control sometimes randomly looses speed & downshifts to 3 and raise rpms quickly to gain the set cruise control speed again."
Vehicle Background: bought it from the original owner, the fuel gauge showed empty on a full tank of gas and I passed on the car, owner called a week later and said they installed a used PCM and everything now works, and it did, I bought it since it was a really clean car.
After driving on highway with cruise control set it would randomly loose power and downshift and then regain speed from being set on cruise control, mostly uphills and downhills but also straights sometimes and it would loose 7-8 mphs not the 1-3 mph loss that is typical of some other cars on cruise.
Engine has been rebuilt to success, other then this issue, the car drives like a dream and doesn't burn a drop of oil. Plenty of power compared to before the rebuild as well.
I learned from a DIY oil consumption fix on a 98 corolla that removing throttle body and cleaning it and the IACV, makes the vehicle idle within stock spec, really quiet and also improves the throttle response, I attempt this on the GT-S.
So I open up the airbox to make room to clean my throttle body and the 2 nuts were fairly loose, but the 2 bottom bolts were completely out that attach the throttle body to the intake manifold and only holding their place because of the tight fit in that area from all the hoses. This wasn't even touched during the engine rebuild.
I remove everything, looks dirty as [censored] and the intake has some oil in it, which I use brake parts cleaner to dry and use air to blow off and only got to remove maybe 30% of it from the inside of the intake. I then also remove the IACV to find it REALLY dirty like all the ones I had open so far and I go to town and cleaner both that and throttle body and replace both the gaskets as well.
Upon completion the vehicle's throttle response becomes AMAZING compared to before and it seem like a proper GT-S rather then a slow car which before had a slower acceleration then my 01 GT. I drive the same route home of 25 miles, the car NEVER once down shifts and has plenty of power and I'm HAPPY!
Well guess what, the issue is back now, I open the air box and both the nuts and the bolts seems firmly tight. I loosen everything up to still see the oil in the intake(though I only got to remove/dry30% the first time), brand new OEM PCV valve in the car 5k ago and I followed the PCV Valve pipe to the intake and it was dry from the inside as well.
when the vehicle is driven around and it returns to idle, it seems to hesitate(I think not 100% since it could be the engine just slowing down didn't do it before the throttle body cleaning though) for less then a second when going back to idle speed, it idles perfectly at around 750 rpms though. Questions:
1. What could be causing the oil in the intake? is it just the old oil what has been in the intake since before I bought it? The car doesn't burn any oil in the last 5k since the engine rebuild.
2. Could it be the PCM/VCM is causing the random power loss with cruise control on? which was a problem that was so called fixed using used parts but all the other automatic functions work perfectly.
3. Could it be the Cruise Control it self, apparently I can snag one from a local pick n pull for like 8 bucks (I think, listed on website)
4. Could it be this issue listed in this link? [URL] ..... , bad throttle position sensor? could it be that I cleaned the idle air control valve too roughly to get that slight hesitation when returning to idle?
5. Could it be the Throttle body itself in the GT-S? Did I clean it too aggressively, and ruined the round opening, which is causing the random loss of power? I had my cuzin do the throttle body removal and cleaning DIY step by step on our 99 corolla and he used a gasket remover (attached to a power tool) to clean up the dirt/oil build up inside the round opening and it started to give him jerks driving at highway speeds, constantly...We used the 98 corolla's gently cleaned throttle body in the 99 corolla and immediately issue solved. The proper working throttle body in the 98 corolla is a used replacement one as I aggressively cleaned the round opening in the original one and had hesitation issues as well.
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The other day I went to the store for an errand in my 1995 Nissan Sentra. When I parked my car my key seemed to be stuck; I jiggled it out a little after putting it in park and turning it off. I came back and couldn't seem to get the key in properly to turn it over, but eventually after some fidgeting I got it in. I turned it over and it started, but I couldn't take the car out of park. When I pushed down the brake, the gear shifter wouldn't move. I left it there and came back yesterday -- I was able to start the car, but had to fool around with the key a bit to get it to go in properly and the gear shifter still won't move out of park. Is this a transmission problem, an ignition problem, something else, or all of the above.
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How to remove the sunroof in my 86 GTS?
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I need to remove the power steering pulley on a 2001 Toyota Celica GTS to replace the pulley shaft's seal. I've got several pullers, so I figure one of them will work. But, I'm concerned that when I pull it out it could damage whatever it messes with inside. Also, I'm going to try doing this with pump on the vehicle.
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I have a 1995 celica gt at times the car was hard to start it would start idle really low then cut off this went on for about 1 month. The other day I was driving it and stopped at a light the car cut off and wouldn't restart. I originally thought it was a fuel pump so I took off the fuel line going to the fuel filter and attempted to start car fuel came out so I knew the fuel pump was working.
I then pull out 1 spark plug put it in the end of the spark plug wire and held it against the block while someelse cranked the car no spark was observed. I then marked the distributor and removed it. I looked at the rotor and it was really worn also the ignition coil had a crack on the side of it. I removed it and went to auto zone and found a replacement for $42.00 they sell two different type one for the 1.8 engine and for the 2.2 engine so know which engine type you have. I put every thing back and the car ran fine. However I would like to bring up the rpms a little they do seem low but I attempting to find out what how to do that.
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I just purchased 8/1/2012 a GEM of a garage kept 95 Celica Hatchback ST with 5 speed manual transmission.
The car was registered and driven until 8/2008 and garaged until 8/1/2012. The proud owner started it and drove it around the block so the car has not been completely idle for 4 years but very little miles driven. 165K miles on this baby. The car started right up and drove like a dream during my test drive and on the sweet drive home.
This morning 1st and 2nd gear acted like it was not getting enough gas (bogged down) and jerked as if I did not know how to drive a stick. But once it gets going is fine on 3rd, 4th and 5th gears. The car idles fine and accelerates fine when not in gear. I reached 80 on the interstate with no issues at all. Once at the stop light the low gear issues persist. Not clear as to what it could be.
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I have a 95 celica gt with a 2.2 5sfe engine that has a bad oil leak. I was told it is the oil pressure switch. Looking it up it seems to be a cheap and simple fix.
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I'm trying to turn the crankshaft by hand to verify my timing belt alignment, but meeting some resistance. is this because I have the spark plugs in? do i have to take them out to turn the crank? also, that little groove in the belt guide doesn't seem to line up with anything or get held by the rib on the crankshaft. does that matter, or have i got it installed wrong?
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I got a 95 convertible that the passenger quarter window has decided to come off the tracks! got it pullled out and 2 of the 3 plastic roller guides have decided to split in 2! can you believe that? after 16 years they broke (toyota quality just isn't the same!) where i can find the new roller guides?
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So my check engine light came on a while ago and the code indicated my second oxygen sensor. I replaced it and the light went out...for a while. Now it comes on for a while and then goes out. Not sure what to think.
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Looking for the proper instructions in replacing timing belt and oil seal I have done this on a Honda accord before but I need to know how to properly align everything so I can do it right the first time.
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If I don't warm the car up, the car will drive longer. However, once it gets up to operating temperature, it shuts off. The temperature gauge doesn't indicate it is overheating, however if I turn my heat on full blast it does not shut off. I have replaced the fuel filter and spark plugs already and know it could be one of many things but am not sure where to start now.
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I have a 1995 Toyota Celica 1.8L hatchback with automatic transmission. Car starts shutting down around 100mph. How to remove the governor or restrictor or whatever it is that's holding the engine from its full potential.
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I have a 95 Toyota Celica GT which started making a noise today. It does not seem to increase when the engine is revved. The crankshaft pulley seems to have a slight wobble, belt feels tight, does not appear worn. Does not matter if AC is on or off. No performance issues. I'm thinking harmonic balancer replacement.
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Car was parked nose slightly uphill. would turn over strong, but wouldn't catch ignition after long tries. I dinked around for 5 under the hood for 10 minutes in the 30 degree weather, and then after a medium long try, it started and ran. started fine after a 45 minute stop with the nose pointed slightly downhill. Then after 10 miles the engine shut off suddenly at 40mph with no warning. there was never any diminution of power in the acceleration. would not start again after many tries with plenty of revolutions. It did seem the cab lights were a little finicky/dim, but I couldn't tell if that was electrical weakness or just old car cab light switches. didn't behave the way a battery related ignition problem would. no check engine light.
Cop pulled up and wanted it off the busy road, and long story short it wound up at this shop I don't know anything about. the guy there said it started and ran fine for the 45 minutes or so he had it in the garage, but then it shut off. it wouldn't ignite when he sprayed throttle body cleaner into it while cranking the key. I think he said he did something else to confirm there was no spark. he's got his theories about what is wrong, but doesn't want to commit to anything unless he can burn some $100/hr time diagnosing.
I'm hoping it is not the ignition control module, ECM or especially the crankshaft position sensor.
95 GT Convertible - 5sfe
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I have a 1995 Celica that I've owned about 6 months. Great car until it broke down last week. It's an automatic and it spluttered to a stop as I was pulling into a car park (how polite). I've traced the problem to the ignition not creating a spark (removed and observed spark plug while engine turning over), but cannot find root cause. I replaced the engine management system this morning to no avail. A passerby mentioned that the 'igniter' which is built into the distributor casing might be the root cause of the problem.
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