Ok my 2000 Toyota Celica GTS is having 2 very bad issues.
1st - It is hesitating very bad when doing "cold starts" and nearly dies when I turn the A/C on (engine code reads : Random/Multiple Misfires on all 4 cylinders)
2nd - I have to put in 1 pint of Anti Freeze every single WEEK! It is not leaking on the ground as far as i can tell too.
I have a 94 Camry left to me by my father inlaw when he died a year ago. I notice antifreeze coming from a weep hole just above one of the alternator mounting brackets. Whats involved with replacing the water pump and timing belt? Im guessing thats what it is and while I am in there I will replace the timing belt as I dont believe either have been replaced. The car has about 160,000 miles on it. I kept my Windstar going for about 250,000 miles before my daughter wrapped it around a tree so Im sure its something I can handle. The problem is time as we are getting into winter. Is it a major job or something that can be done in a few hours?
View 5 RepliesMine has a 4.0 V6, the freeze plugs are leaking coolant, the guy at the shop said it will require pulling the engine to replace them. Is there an easy ( less expensive ) fix ? I was told I could use block sealer, is that an option? She has appox.160,000 miles...
View 2 RepliesSoon after buying my new 2011 Elantra, I smelled that pungent anti-freeze smell when the engine gets hot. When I brought the car in for its first oil change, the Dealership did a pressure test but did not find any problems. During the next oil change (4 months since purchase) I noticed the fluid level below the Low level. The dealership did a second pressure test but nothing unusual. I thought it was odd that the anti-freeze level would be low after just 4 months, but the dealer was not concerned because it was a hot summer. However, he did inform me that I was the second Elantra owner that had the same complaint that same day. The smell continues when I run the engine through rush hour traffic (stop and go). I purchased florescent leak detector fluid with the UV light. It looks great when I shine the light on the coolant reservoir but I have yet to see any florescent leaks even though I still smell the anti-freeze.
View 39 RepliesIs this normal for the GS300 to loose anti-freeze coolant in its reservoir? My 2006 GS300 had little coolant in the reservoir on Monday and I took it to my local Toyota dealer to check it out. They recommended me to do a flushing instead of draining and filling for the coolant since the previous owner never changed it. I did the flushing and they put it Toyota SLLC (pink) coolant as well as filling up the reservoir to full mark. Today I check the reservoir again and it is 1" lower. Is this normal? I check the radiator, engine, hoses but I did not see any leak. The temperature is fine, no overheating or anything.
View 14 RepliesI have a 5.0L with around 144k mileage. I noticed a reasonably severe leak of anti-freeze the day after I had the oil changed at a shop (coincidentally?); nothing out of the ordinary on that day. The temp's have never showed as being beyond normal. I saw that there was a bit of weeping from the water pump, so changed that believing that the gaskets might be the real culprit (third pump on this truck). I re-filled the system with fluid (green silicate as the system had been modified several years back), ran the engine, and found that there is still a leak, not as severe, but most definitely bad. It honestly appears to be dripping at the oil pan gasket, just left of the crank on the lower end. The location doesn't really seem logical to me.
View 4 RepliesI have noticed the last couple of days that after the truck has been running and well warmed up I will on occasion smell that sweet smell of antifreeze. I can find nothing in the interior of the cab, If I raise the hood there maybe a faint smell of antifreeze.
I have approx. 31,000 miles on the truck and a few months to go on the bumper to bumper warranty.
Does this sound like the overly popular radiator leak starting to raise it's ugly head? Is there another likely culprit?
Where do I need to be looking to locate the source of the antifreeze smell.
2000 F250 7.3 diesel... It began doing this last summer. It will blow cold and freeze you out then it gets hot and burns you up. If you step on the gas pedal for a bit, it will go cold again. We have changed high & low pressure switches and added more freon. What else do we need to look into?
View 1 RepliesI read a lot here about the best antifreeze coolant. If the truck will never, and I mean never, be exposed to freezing temperatures, do I need antifreeze? Our lowest ever temperature was 66 degrees or so.
What should we use? I have a 2004 550.
My truck had a small puddle of anti-freeze under it last week. It has been sitting for a couple of weeks with no issues until I noticed the puddle. After I cleaned it up, it hasn't leaked for a few days. I obviously can't find a source. What could have caused it to leak and then suddenly stop?
View 2 RepliesI own a 1996 Toyota Celica. When the car is cold it starts and run for about 5 minutes then dies. When I try to start the car, with the key in the 'on' position, I have no check engine light. If I crank the engine and release the key to the 'run' position, the 'check engine' light turns on. When the car is cold or I leave it to rest for a couple hours and I turn the key on the 'check engine' light turns on. it is after the car stalls out i have this problem. At this point if I spray some starter fluid into the intake the car attempts to start. I thought that it was the pump so I installed a new one. Fuel pressure is good. It seems to me that the injectors are not working.
Is it the computer? Given that fuel is getting to the injectors but the injectors are not firing, Given that I have ignition since when I spray starter fluid into the intake the car fires up and runs until it runs out of starter fluid. Where do I start? I have not used a noid light as yet to check the injector harness and as you all know the harness is a little difficult to get at because of its location under the intake.
Toyota celica 2000 GT automatic, has a problem on cold start, especially when the temperature is below 32 degree Fahrenheit. The engine starts and runs roughly, but most electrical devices do not work, the dashboard and car windows are power off and I can't change the gear so it can not move. Only after warming up for about 10 minutes then the dashboard will work, then everything is fine till the next morning. I sent it to a small garage but they found nothing.
View 3 RepliesI have a well maintained '96 Celica 2.2 and for the first time in years it started acting up on the way home last night.
I got on the highway and was cruising at 65 and it started hesitating and popping and finally forced me to the side of the road. I was then able to start off again and reached about 60 all the way home but it was hesitating and not a smooth ride at all.
When I got to a red light at the off ramp, it died. I started it and it drove rough on local streets until I got home.
This morning I started it and it fired right up but then died immediately. Did that twice. Just tried again and it won't even start but just pops and makes noises like it's out of gas, even though 1/2 full.
Check Engine Light is on. I tried jumping E1 and TE1 but nothing happened.
Since day one I've had an issue with the exhaust leaking on my car, right at the flex pipe before the cat. I have replaced it at least 5 times in the last year. Every 2 moths or so it tears the flexpipe right in half, like it's literally in 2 pieces when I take it out. So, I thought that maybe the factory dogbone mount was old and weak, causing the engine to move around more, therefore tearing the flexpipe apart, so I got an new dogbone with poly bushings to combat that. It did reduce engine movement, but the exhaust kept breaking at the same spot. Then I thought that the metal was weak from it being welded so many times, so I got a new downpipe with the cat on ebay for like 150 CAN, and put a new gasket on, and now it still leaks...
Only thing though, is that this time on cold starts (as it is winter, so around -25 celcius) its really REALLY loud, like the exhaust sheared off right after the cat. However, after a few hours of driving it seems to get quieter at idle, but if you give it a little gas, it is quite audible. Also I can see exhaust fumes coming out my engine bay on said cold starts, however if I get down to ground level, I can hear it plain as day right where the pinch clamp is that connects to the catback part.
So, my theory is that, cause the bands on the clamp rusted out so my dad just put those u-bolt muffler clamps on there, which I can see an opening in the clamp, even if they're tight, until the exhaust gets hot and expands, kinda making the seal tighter but not air tight like it should. So maybe that clamp isn't doing it's job anymore and I just need a new one. OR it could be that that stupid flex pipe is broken again or that the bolts holding it to the manifold aren't tight, which that can't be cause i got them pretty snug on there. I'll have to take a look underneath again, see If I see any carbon on the exhaust, which would mean a leak, but I checked a few weeks ago and it was shiny metal, no signs of any leaks.
Car is an 04 golf with the 2.0 engine code BEV if that makes any difference. I double checked and NONE of the hangers are broken, and it's held in the right spot as it should, there looks to be no force exerted on the flexpipe at all when installed in the car, so I'm really confused.
91 Dodge D150 1/2 ton truck with a 318 (5.2L). Approx. 135K miles. Noticed a leaking freeze plug right behind the starter. Removed the starter & replaced the offending plug. I've also replaced other plugs on the block as needed in the past. While I had the starter out, I went ahead and replaced it as it was getting old & tired. After buttoning everything up while adding coolant, I got a major waterfall coming out between the trans and the engine block.
My project for today is to remove the transmission so I can get to the rear plugs and replace. How many plugs are back there? I'm obviously changing all the plugs back there along with the rear main seal. Is there any advantage going with the brass plugs or should I just stick with the regular ones?
I had an engine transplant (JDM) and am now getting P0300, P0301, P0302 and P0302 OBD2 codes with my Check Engine light. These are all cylinder misfire codes. A post on Google suggested these may be due to a leaking intake manifold gasket and suggested a replacement. My 2001 Celica GT is stalling out from standstill, idling roughly and hesitating.
View 8 RepliesI've been getting some grayish/blueish smoke on cold starts lately and decided to do some investigation to see if there was a problem or just the cold temps.
I googled it and turbo oil seal problem was pretty common so I figured it was easiest to start there. I removed the pipe between turbo and CAC and it had quite a bit of oil it in. The pipe after the CAC had a fair amount as well. I checked the oil level in the engine and it was slightly down but I can't say how accurate the dipstick is nor it was completely full after the last oil change. Either way, not much oil is entering the intake but I would assume any is too much.
Here's my main concern - What's the likelihood of getting a runaway from this?? Is it possible for the oil seal to fail 'more' than it already has putting more oil in the intake allowing for a runaway condition?
Obviously the turbo needs replaced but is it safe to run it the way it is until it completely fails or replace immediately?
M y 90 aero 3.0 heads are leaking front and back freeze plugs. I think back ones are pretty accessible from inside. How hard to change it . I changed block plugs. What size are head plugs?.
View 14 RepliesMy car has been running great. It has 125,000 miles on it. A couple weeks ago I did a bunch of work. I changed the plugs, air filter, timing belt, ac belt, alt, belt, cooling flush, tranny flush and brakes. Everything was great until yesterday. I wanted to test the power so I was on the highway going up this long incline going relatively fast. As I get almost to the top of the hill, my car starts hesitating losing power and check engine light comes on. I make it off the exit and sputter to a commuter parking lot. I shut the car off, check under the car for leaks and check the fluids. Everything is ok. I start the car back up and its running fine again. I drive home then I drive to the parts store to have them check the codes. No codes found. He told me that the engine light needs to be on for them to find codes.
View 13 RepliesI have a 2000 honda civic with 120,000 miles on it. recently, on cold starts (when i haven't turned the engine for a day) i've noticed a rapid vibrating or rattling noise about 30 seconds or so after i've turned the ignition. this noise lasts for maybe 15 to 20 seconds then it goes away, presumably as the engine has warmed a little.
I do drive a lot, and during the day even after the car has not been running for a few hours this noise doesn't occur. Only happens on the cold starts. I hope it's nothing major. I've attached a video with the sound. about 30 seconds into the video you will hear the noise kick in. (if the video doesn't show below here is the youtube link: [URL] ....
I'm on my second '15 Limited Turbo. Only have 2k miles, but I've noticed an issue with acceleration. When under hard acceleration, especially in 3rd or 4th gear, around 5k RPM the engine starts hesitating. It feels like it runs out of steam. This feeling lasts through beginning of next gear, then the car picks up again. It is actually faster when applying less throttle.
What it could be? It did it since new, I took it to the dealer once, but got some stupid response that it was just rev limiter kicking in (at 5k, right), unfortunately had no time to leave it with them again/show it to them. I also thought it might just go away on it's own, plus I don't usually drive it that hard anyway...