Chevrolet - 1500 :: 1998 - Severe Leak Of Anti-freeze
Sep 15, 2011
I have a 5.0L with around 144k mileage. I noticed a reasonably severe leak of anti-freeze the day after I had the oil changed at a shop (coincidentally?); nothing out of the ordinary on that day. The temp's have never showed as being beyond normal. I saw that there was a bit of weeping from the water pump, so changed that believing that the gaskets might be the real culprit (third pump on this truck). I re-filled the system with fluid (green silicate as the system had been modified several years back), ran the engine, and found that there is still a leak, not as severe, but most definitely bad. It honestly appears to be dripping at the oil pan gasket, just left of the crank on the lower end. The location doesn't really seem logical to me.
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My truck had a small puddle of anti-freeze under it last week. It has been sitting for a couple of weeks with no issues until I noticed the puddle. After I cleaned it up, it hasn't leaked for a few days. I obviously can't find a source. What could have caused it to leak and then suddenly stop?
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I have a '95 Chevy K1500 5.7 and am wanting to install a freeze plug block heater, but I'm having problems knocking out the existing freeze plug and would like some hints. It is located directly behind the oil filter, so I'm having problems getting enough leverage.
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Soon after buying my new 2011 Elantra, I smelled that pungent anti-freeze smell when the engine gets hot. When I brought the car in for its first oil change, the Dealership did a pressure test but did not find any problems. During the next oil change (4 months since purchase) I noticed the fluid level below the Low level. The dealership did a second pressure test but nothing unusual. I thought it was odd that the anti-freeze level would be low after just 4 months, but the dealer was not concerned because it was a hot summer. However, he did inform me that I was the second Elantra owner that had the same complaint that same day. The smell continues when I run the engine through rush hour traffic (stop and go). I purchased florescent leak detector fluid with the UV light. It looks great when I shine the light on the coolant reservoir but I have yet to see any florescent leaks even though I still smell the anti-freeze.
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Is this normal for the GS300 to loose anti-freeze coolant in its reservoir? My 2006 GS300 had little coolant in the reservoir on Monday and I took it to my local Toyota dealer to check it out. They recommended me to do a flushing instead of draining and filling for the coolant since the previous owner never changed it. I did the flushing and they put it Toyota SLLC (pink) coolant as well as filling up the reservoir to full mark. Today I check the reservoir again and it is 1" lower. Is this normal? I check the radiator, engine, hoses but I did not see any leak. The temperature is fine, no overheating or anything.
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I have a 94 Camry left to me by my father inlaw when he died a year ago. I notice antifreeze coming from a weep hole just above one of the alternator mounting brackets. Whats involved with replacing the water pump and timing belt? Im guessing thats what it is and while I am in there I will replace the timing belt as I dont believe either have been replaced. The car has about 160,000 miles on it. I kept my Windstar going for about 250,000 miles before my daughter wrapped it around a tree so Im sure its something I can handle. The problem is time as we are getting into winter. Is it a major job or something that can be done in a few hours?
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Ok my 2000 Toyota Celica GTS is having 2 very bad issues.
1st - It is hesitating very bad when doing "cold starts" and nearly dies when I turn the A/C on (engine code reads : Random/Multiple Misfires on all 4 cylinders)
2nd - I have to put in 1 pint of Anti Freeze every single WEEK! It is not leaking on the ground as far as i can tell too.
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I have noticed the last couple of days that after the truck has been running and well warmed up I will on occasion smell that sweet smell of antifreeze. I can find nothing in the interior of the cab, If I raise the hood there maybe a faint smell of antifreeze.
I have approx. 31,000 miles on the truck and a few months to go on the bumper to bumper warranty.
Does this sound like the overly popular radiator leak starting to raise it's ugly head? Is there another likely culprit?
Where do I need to be looking to locate the source of the antifreeze smell.
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I read a lot here about the best antifreeze coolant. If the truck will never, and I mean never, be exposed to freezing temperatures, do I need antifreeze? Our lowest ever temperature was 66 degrees or so.
What should we use? I have a 2004 550.
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I own a 1998 Chevy K1500 Silverado. About a year and a half ago my interior lights stopped turning off. I found that the only way to make the lights go out is to pull the interior light fuse. With the fuse pulled my lights will go out when the key is in the off position. With the key in any position besides off and the radio on my cab lights are on half bright. If I turn off the radio or pull the radio fuse the lights go out. My mechanic and I both investigated this and came up with the same answer: the Keyless Entry Module. After living with no cab lights for a year and a half (in northern New Hampshire) I broke down and paid the 180 bucks for the "Remote Function Actuation Module" (I had to take my dash apart and get the part number off the old module to figure out which one of three or four possible modules was used in my truck). Now that I have replaced the module I still have the same problem. If it's not the module then what is causing my lights to stay on all the time with the fuse in or come on half bright with the fuse pulled?
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Alright. I'm a handyman by trade but have only done regular maintenance on my vehicles - I'm no expert. I've searched several forums for this information but have found 1000 different answers, mostly for other makes and models. My truck is a 1998 Chevy Cheyenne 1500, 5.0L V8, 137k miles, last tune up at 110k miles. Use valvoline oil explicitly, and change every 4k miles.
I got into my truck this morning, it turned over, and then died. The gauges all activated and displayed adequate oil pressure, battery power, etc. My RPMs got to 1000 for a second and then back to zero. I tried pumping the gas pedal a bit and nothing changed. It will do the same trick over and over with no difference based on time in between.
So I pulled the air filter off and changed the spark plugs and wires. The spark plugs were moderately worn and two had some corrosion. I used the correct gap on my gauge (.06 or .6, don't remember) and I've done spark plug changes a few times in different vehicles. I'm pretty sure it was done correctly. Also, I noticed that the coolant was low, so I filled it up, and added a quart of oil.
No luck. Exact same thing is happening. I really want to avoid electrical issues (don't we all!) and would like to check other things first...
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I have a 98 Express conversion van and when I start the van and pull away the van has trouble shifting between first, second, and third. It acts like it hiccups before it changes gears. I have to manually shift between the first few gears until I get to 55-60 miles an hour, once I get there and slow the van back down it will automatically shift like normal. I will not have any other issues until I turn the van off, as soon is I turn it off something resets and I will have to get it up to 55 again to get whatever it is to click in to get it to shift properly again. I can't figure it out?
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I have a 2005 Suburban 1500 2WD with auto level suspension components. At 9yrs old, the compressor is running very frequently likely indicating a leak in the shocks - I am wondering about replacing the original auto level parts with a conversion kit and installing regular gas shocks instead of the really expensive auto level shocks.
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I have a 1998 Chevy K1500 4x4 which is experiencing issues on two fronts: brakes and general operation.
For the brakes, over the last couple years, we have replaced just about every part of the system, including - master cylinder - calipers - brake lines. In addition, in the last week, I worked with a local mechanic to bleed the lines and he turned the rotors as well. The result is that while the truck does stop, the pedal height is still really high and feels like there's no pressure until the pedal's nearly to the floor. I get the feeling that if I needed to stop abruptly or at a higher speed than 35mph, I wouldn't be able to. I'm not sure what needs to happen next.
As to the general operation: the first time I start the truck on any given day, it fires up and runs smoothly. If I take it across town, however, and put it in the park, it gasps, sputters, and dies. It is then very difficult to get the vehicle to start again--usually, I have to push the gas pedal all the way to the floor and grind the starter until the engine turns over. After that, I have to keep my foot on the accelerator for 15-30 seconds at around 3000 RPM as the truck shudders and lurches, until it smooths out. Once I put it into drive or reverse, however, it dies, unless I am quick to push the accelerator again. Until recently, the truck had only been driven four times in the last two years or so. So far, I have: - replaced the air filter - added fresh gas (to the old) - added an engine treatment (Sea-Foam) Everything I have done is stuff that needs to be taken care of anyway, and I want to take care of all the little things before I take it to a dealership to have a full diagnostic run on it. I also plan to have an oil change done on it this week.
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I have a misfire in the 6 cylinder on my 98 Chevy c1500 5.7l 350 v8 2wd. I changed the spark plugs and wires, cap and rotor, and changed the spider injector i put the spider injector in from another engine I had. After doing all this the code still comes up. The truck runs fine and except it idles slight rough not bad at all and now it says I have a vacuum leak and while I'm driving you can feel the loss of power. I tried all the ways to do it like on YouTube. What is wrong with my truck?
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I have a Chevy Prizm 1998 and I drive about 250 miles a week. Recently I started going through a quart of oil in 2 weeks. My engine sounds good. I am religious about changing my oil and filter every 3,000 miles and I check my oil every time I fill up my gas tank. There is no blue smoke and no oil spots on the garage. Could it possibly be a small leak that only occurs while I am driving or a am I dreaming?
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I have a 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 5.9L V8 4x4 ... Automatic transmission sport model
I have a severe shaking at 1500 rpm last gear and a slight shaking at idle doesn't shake when I'm off the gas barely shake when I kick it into higher revs but I than hear piston slap.
I replaced the spark plugs and I have brand new U-joints. Last night I checked all the plug wires and they are all getting spark. But my exhaust is skipping like I'm not firing in a couple cylinders
I checked the rear transmission mount (I'm replacing it). And the Engine mounts look ok but I'll check again today
I've read a ton of forums and they all have different answers so I'm really trying to figure out what is wrong before I spend a bunch of money replacing things that won't fix it!
I've read that it can be my tranny, TC, Harmonic Balancer, Steering Stabilizer, pinions, Tie rods, Steering(over all), IAC, Fuel System, IgnitionSystem.
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I developed a freeze plug leak while driving into town in my 1991 Aerostar with the 3.0 liter engine. Got to Schuck's (my destination) and bought some antifreeze, noted where the leak was and filled up the coolant system.
Drove a few miles to the mechanic's house. Coolant blowing out everywhere, obviously boiling off. Let it cool down while going over an estimate for repair. Topped it off one more time and went home. Have not moved it since.
There is sludge, almost like thick foam, that I suspect is what's left of coolant that has had the water mostly removed. It is the same color as the coolant - bright orange-ish green. Will a few flushes with fresh water clear this out of the system?
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This 1997 Honda prelude 140k has an oil leak that when I turn the car on that oil starts to gush out of it. I'm not sure what would cause oil to gush out of the bottom. It's not the oil drain plug nor is it the oil filter.
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I have a 2001 E350 van with the 4R100 Transmission. It had a severe and sudden leak develop in the trans cooler. The driver noted trouble getting the vehicle into gear, into reverse, but ultimately drove it about 25 miles until it stopped unable to go up a hill. Once stopped, the leaking fluid was obvious from smoke & fluid over the back of the vehicle.
It was towed to a local shop (not a transmission shop). They put 9 quarts of fluid in and started the engine hoping to see the transmission functional but only leaking from the cooler. Instead they found it not operational and no fluid coming from the leak. They assume the pump is ruined to the point of not pumping fluid at all.
Is it likely that the front pump is the only damage? Can I pull the unit swap the pump & put it back in service? What else (if more damage is likely) would a transmission repair shop find? What about a used transmission?
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How do I know if my 1995 Chevy Lumina has anti-lock brakes (ABS)???
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