Celica :: 2000 Is Little Rough / CEL Came On
Apr 23, 2011
A while back it was a little rough but not so bad, I ran some seafoam and cleaned the MAF, it made it smoother and the CEL went away, but came back shortly. I'm unsure of the code but I will check soon.
Anyways the code is still there I will try to get it checked soon though, but the car runs like CRAP when the Heat or AC is on.
If at a light, and the ac is on, the idle will drop from 7-800 to below 500 and jump back up to 7-800 and back down to 500, but it will save it self right before it wants to stall. I turn the heater off and bam it's fine. While driving if I turn the heater on you can FEEL the strain it puts on the engine and the rpms drop about 500. So eg you're going at 2500 rpm, with the heater on it will drop to 2000. ALSO the ac sometimes randomly turns on and when it does it has a flashing green light.
I think it may be the MAF, or a loose vacuum, but i'm not sure how the heater is affecting it.
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I have a 2000 Celica GTS that idles a little rough it has 118000 miles on it.. Fluctuates between 500 rpm and about 1100 rpm. Doesnt always do this, usually after ive been driving for a while. I also may have a rod knock, what parts would i need to fix both of these issues? Me and some friends can do the work ourselves, i just need the parts.
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Okay so last year i bought a 2000 celica gt manual with 50,000 miles, and currently has 67,000 miles. A few days ago I started to notice the engine was running rough and then about 10 miles later the chack engine light came on. I promptly went to the auto parts store to read the code. I was informed I have a cylinder 1 misfire. Naturally i replaced the spark plugs with NGK iridium, reset and rechecked engine code. Same code. Next i swapped the coils from 1 and 2, reset and rechecked. same code. I then swapped fuel injectors from 1 and 3, rest and rechecked. Same code. So now i am a bit stumped.
Only faulty equipment prior to this incident would be 2nd gear synchronizer. Only applicable above 5,800 RPM.
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My 2000 celica is leaking engine oil from the rear of the motor on the driver side ( passenger side for the U.S). the oil drips are quite insignificant at the moment with only a small amount leaking on the garage floor, but a leak is a leak and i want it fixed. ive tried my hardest to find the source of the leak but i just cant squeeze my head in well enough to see where it is coming from as the engine bay with the 2zz motor is pretty tight! the car only has 116k KMS on the clock (72k MILES) and is regularly serviced so it doesn't make that a seal is on its way out already, but from the area that ive isolated it to, it looks like its the crank pulley or seal....
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I recently bought a 1992 Celica GT with 250k miles on it. It has a rough idle and a couple other things that may or may not be stemming from the same thing that's causing the rough idle
Like I said, it has a rough idle and there is a bit of jerking sometimes during acceleration. The exhaust makes sort of a "put-put-put" or "chirping" sound at lower RPMs and the frequency of the sound corresponds to the engine RPM. I do know of a couple things that could be causing the rough idle and maybe even the jerking, but I'm not sure about the sound from the exhaust.
The cooling fans are hard wired to the ignition so they run constantly, so when it's cold out like it is right now it takes forever for the engine to warm up. Is there a switch somewhere that they are supposed to be wired through? Where would that be? Also, the previous owner did kind of a hack job of putting on a cold air intake and I think I may be missing some sensors, especially because it seems to burn more fuel than it should. What sensors are located on the air intake, or are there even some in the stock airbox itself? And would this possibly be contributing to the rough idle and the jerking?
Also, I do get some vibrations when stopped at idle so I think I may want to replace the motor mounts.
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Why my car sometime start up really bad and even stall when the RPM drops down to 0.... This usually happens on a cold start up. What I should do?
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I'm working on my sons 1985 Celica GT 22RE. He was having problems with it running rough.
I've isolated it down to the number 1 cylinder being starved on warm starts. If you cold start it the problem does not occur but if you let it sit warm for 15 minutes it will fire up but nothing from number one cylinder. Lots of spark but no firing. So I'm going to tear down the EFI and move the injector to see if the problem follows it. Will probably see if I'm getting any voltage to the injector while rough before tearing down.
I can't find anything about an injector not working once warm so I'm thinking it may be an ECU problem.
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Well, a couple months ago my engine started making a noise. We located the issue to be a loose timing belt. We had it tightened, and the noise stopped, but since then it kind of acted like it was a little out of time with rough idles every now and then. This past week, I had driven my car out. I came to a 4-way stop and the car shut off on me. It would not immediately start back up so I pushed it to the side and waited a bit. It started up after sitting for a few minutes and cooling down. I got it back home and it stalled right as I was turning into my driveway (after the RPMs had lowered to idle).
A couple of days ago I set out to replace the timing belt as it seemed to me the timing was off ever since we tightened the belt and it eventually got worse, thus the stalling. I changed the timing belt, set the timing on the cams the way it shows to be set below:
I set the timing on the crankshaft pulley to the specifications found in this video:
Which is putting the crankshaft pulley on and turning it until it aligns with the '0' mark on the bottom timing cover. So I decide to start the car without anything else on to make sure its in time. It fires right up so I shut it off quickly and go about putting it all back together.
Once the car is completed, I attempt to start it again. It fires up, I back it up and it dies. It would not start back. I waited a few minutes and attempted to start it again, it started up so I pulled it back up to the same spot it was in and shut it off. Took the pieces off again, got it back to where I could line the timing up again. I again set the timing one more time to make sure. It was set correctly. I then tried starting the car again and this time it would not crank.
I gave up for now as its 30 degrees outside and I have been working on it non stop for 3 days to no avail.
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I just bought a 92 Toyota Celica for something to play around with. It's got just over 200,000 miles and everything seems to run alright except there is a really rough vibration at idle. The vibration is so bad that it's almost visible. You can still feel the vibration in drive but it isn't nearly as bad.
Any clue at what could be causing the vibration? I'll try to get a sound clip or video uploaded ....
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I have a 1991 Celica GT. 175K miles. The car recently developed an issue where it jerks back and forth at light throttle, sort of like a newbie trying to learn to drive a stick. It happens at pretty much any speed, but is less pronounced at the higher speeds (45 MPH). In addition, it will not idle at a constant speed and cycles between 1100 rpm and about 300... or kill.
I've taken the throttle body off and IAC valve off and cleaned them both but it didn't change the behavior. If I pinch the line to the MAP sensor, the idle straightens out at about 1100 rpm. Disconnecting the MAP sensor gives good idle, but no performance while driving, so not a solution.
Things I haven't done yet: check continuity on throttle position sensor, checked MAP sensor (how?).
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I have a 1986 Celica GT-S with 50,000 original miles on it. Car starts perfectly fine in the morning, runs fine, no issues. Problem happens when the engine is warm, and I let it cool off for about 10 minutes or so, at that point, when I try and turn the engine over, it would sometimes turn over and idle very rough, or sometimes it would die and I have to give it gas to keep the engine running. Once I am able to get it in gear and drive, the engine rpm would recover and go back to normal. I have new NGK wires, denso iridium spark plugs.
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Car runs and idles good until I turn on lights or fan rpm jump up about 500 to 700 above normal much worst with both on 1000 1500 and fluctuates. Engine runs rough the higher the rpm the rougher.
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The car: 1994 toyota celica GT 2.2L automatic
Here's the problem: car starts fine when cold. When fully warmed up, if i stop to go to the store or something, and then start it after like 20 - 30 minutes it will start and the idle will be fluctuating between 800 and 400 for a few minutes and then even out. sometimes it will actually start up and die immediately, in which case i can save it by giving it gas for a few seconds and then it's fine.
What I've done so far: plugs (NGK), wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter (toyota), (checked air filter. still clean), tried cleaning the throttle body and IAC with some deep creep spray while on the car (not much effect).
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I have a 100% stock 2004 Celica GT ~125,000 miles. Over the last few months I have been getting a rough idle and stumble at low rpms. The other day the car would not restart after sitting for about 20 minutes. Only recently has it actually thrown a DTC. The error codes were for misfires (P0300, P0301,P0302,P0303, P0304). I don’t get a code every time but the problem seems to be more noticeable if the car has been ran for a while, sits for 20-30 minutes while in a store and then when I try to start it when I come out of the store is when the problem most often occurs. When it restarts it will stumble at low RPM and if I hit the gas it has little response and misses badly. I have never used a scanner until now. I am using a Autel MS509 scanner and I am not sure it is giving me the correct diagnostic numbers for the live data. I think the DTC are correct but the live data is questionable.
Here is what I have done so far.
- Cleaned IAC valve (completely removed and cleaned)
- Searched for vacuum leaks using carb cleaner
- Cleaned MAF sensor
- Replaced all 4 injectors
- Replaced upstream and downstream O2 sensors
- Replaced Coolant Temp Sensor
- Ensured cam tensioner is providing adequate pressure to the cam chain
- Tried 2 sets of new Iridium NGK plugs and a new set of Bosch Copper plugs
- Moved coil packs around
- New air filter
- New fuel filter
- SeaFoam through intake and gas tank. I have not mixed in the oil.
- Compression Test (1=190,2=190,3=160,4=178)
Things I have not done.
- Taken it to the stealership
- Fuel pressure test
- Valve Clearance
I am concerned about the compression test because according to the service manual it should be around 218. I was using a Harbor Freight compression tester and I am not 100% sure I had a good seal with the tester.
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I have a 2001 Toyota celica GT auto. It has 120k miles. I seem to have an issue that really is not causing a problem except for annoyance. After coming to a stop the car seems to exhibit the signs of stalling (car idles rough, shakes a bit) however the car never stalls. Once I start driving all is well. Now I took it to the dealer and they replaced the Idle Air Control Valve which is under the throttle body. They said it was getting stuck and due to the higher mileage possible. It was replaced and the problem is still there. The funny thing is even though the car exhibits these stalling symptoms the idle does not drop below 500 rpm (both dealer and I have verified this).
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My 00 celica has a 2004 corolla motor in it won't rev past 3500 rpm I just now got don't replacing the MAF sensor in it didn't make a diffrence and it was virtually fine until until I put it in the ditch and broke the tire rod then I replaced it.
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Where is the TPS on the 2ZZGE engine? I bought an OE part from bap geon and i cant find it on the car to save my life.
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It's a 2000 Celica gts 6sp manual and it won't crank from its own battery. The alternator and battery are both fine. It cranks and drives fine when jumped from another car, but the dash lights wont even come on unless it's being jumped even after having the battery tested and freshly charged. Could a lost ground or a short cause this?
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I was just driving and suddenly i had my CEL pop on. I went to pepboys to have them read the code for me and it Came up P 0420. I have been looking up the code and got a few emissions issues but not sure what one to do first. Any link with Main issues for CEL Codes? Or know what it could be?
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I have an 89 Celica GT that idles at 2000 RPM when first started up and even when it's warm it is still at about 1500 RPM. How to lower that? I failed my emissions test because it put out too much CO and the idle speed was one of the suspected problems.
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How to pop off the side view mirror (just the mirror part, not the entire mount)
I know either the bottom slides in, and the top clips in, or vice versa. I don't want to pry off the wrong side and snap off tabs that slide in.
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