Cherokee :: 1999 Idles On Start, Seems Like No Fuel
May 20, 2012
I have a 99 Jeep Cherokee Limited, 4.0 inline 6 cyl. When you first start it up it idles fine but after a few min. it starts to act like it is starving for fuel. If you take off down the road it pops back through the intake (backfires). After a few mins it takes off and runs just fine and gives no more trouble until you shut it off and it sits for awhile. Then at the next restart it does it again. It acts like a fuel problem but the way it backfires through the intake makes me think it is a firing problem.
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1990 Cherokee 4.oL str 6.
I was checking oil and noticed fuel smell in oil. lot of short trips but also driven til hot at least a couple of times every week with long rides weekly or bi weekly.
Also smelling gas on start up and first minute or so. Some fuel smell in exhaust. The jeep runs well.
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its 1986 Ranger with a 2.9L V6 Auto 4x4, well to start with it seriously over fueling also it idles very roughly and even stalls out sometimes, when I'm trying to hold it at a speed it acts like it is missing (I guess that's from over fueling as well and it also pukes out lots of black smoke, it goes through way too much gas for a V6), but when I speed up fairly hard it acts fine until I try to maintain speed again, I have already put a tune up into it and a new EGR as well a fuel regulator and how to fix it?
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I purchased a 1990 Jeep Cherokee Laredo at a steal . . . I've already replaced the head gasket sealant. My biggest current concern is the fuel pressure. The car either starts up beautifully or sputters and gurgles for a good 5 seconds before finally idling normally (either occur during cold or warm starts).
The sputtering at start-up has become more commonplace as of late. If I drive away without providing a good three-to-five minute warm-up, the car will drive as normal while applying gas pressure to the peddle, then once gas pressure is no longer applied, the car dies silently; The battery stays on, but all power steering and engine power disappear and the car coast into nothingness. If I allow the Jeep to warm up significantly, it will drive as normal for hours, except for it's struggles to compensate long upward hills.
The fuel regulator has a slight leak. Worse at start-up, lessens up over time. The seal may be improperly seated, but is in physical working condition as I can tell. Spark plugs were replaced. Battery was replaced. Injectors have been tightened. There is a slight oil leak (it seems to move around a bit), but is far better since the Head Gasket was replaced. Could this be a bad fuel regulator or something else that I have missed?
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After I start up and drive my jeep around town and then shut the engin off. Then I get back inside the jeep, start it up the engin idels rough. Some times the engin light comes on. I had a coil pack installed and still the same symptoms. What do you think?
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I have a 1987 jeep cherokee with inline 6 and multi port injection.
Sometimes this vehicle only starts when hot
Some times only when it cold
I have recently fixed the fuel leak.
When its hot or cold and not starting if i relieve the fuel pressure at the fuel rail, in most cases it will start immediately. However if fuel pressure relief does not work. I disconnect the vacuum line at the what looks to be the EGR valve or the pressure regulator at the front end of the rail, then usually starts right away.
I have not tested at this time to see if the fuel pump is failing nor have i tested fuel pressure. I am trying to narrow down the problem to one specific part. There is no problems with cranking. There is spark - coil, plug, dist cap have been replaced.
It seems the problem is with fuel delivery of sorts. It was mentioned that sometimes the heat from the engine could be heating the fuel rail to a point which turns the fuel into a gas not allowing it to atomize.
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Unless you manually hold throttle when cold jeep will stall. Once engine is warm all is fine. So what controls the high idle?
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I have a 1991 S10 with a 4.3L V6 TBI that recently began having trouble cold starting, meaning that at a mere 40F I can crank it over and over and it will not catch. If I plug the block heater in for at least an hour, it usually will start, but at a very low, very rough idle. Once it has about 30 seconds or so to warm up, it will then idle TOO FAST at 1500 rpm, and stay that way for the first few miles of driving, which makes it rather awkward to drive, being a 5-speed. Once its been driven awhile and fully warmed up, it runs normally. (I'm running a 180F t-stat.)
The IAC valve, block temp sensor, and TPS sensor, were all replaced last year, so I'd find it hard to believe that one of those could be the problem. I put Heet treatment (red bottle) in the fuel, changed fuel filter and reset the computer. (Although it's never given a trouble code.) The problem is still there.
My local mechanic says replace the ECM, but he hasn't actually diagnosed that as the problem, so I think he may just be taking a wild guess. (He hates OBD1 systems with a passion!).
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My husbands jeep is driving him crazy. He drove it to work and started fine. Then went to start to come home. Nothing. No crank, no click, nothing. Towed home. Battery OK. Anyway, he put new starter on. Started up. I drove it to station. Got in to come home. Nothing. Same darn thing. We jumped it. Pushed it out of way. Started. It's done this many times. Let me say, though, he went through a huge amount of water before this happened. Gauges went nuts for a while. Don't know if this could've messed up a sensor. He's losing sleep over this.
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My jeep is having two issues. First, almost every time I start the vehicle it idles fine, but then when I start to accelerate it bogs down for 1 to 2 seconds. I will accelerate through it and after that it runs fine and doesn't do it again until the next time I start the vehicle. My second issue is that after driving for a couple of hours with the AC on, the flow of air out of the vents drops. The air is still cold to the touch just barely blowing. Once I cut the motor off for about 30 minutes it works fine again for a couple more hours. Also, when the intensity of the air coming out of the vents dies down the blower motor sounds like it is working harder to put out the little bit of air pressure.
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I have a 1999 Ford Escort SE wagon with 112k miles on it. Last week when leaving work my car started very rough. This was unusual so I killed and restarted the car about three times before letting it run it's course (~30 seconds), after which the car ran fine. About a week later on my way to work the car seemed to 'sputter' (for lack of a better word) when I pushed down on the petal looking for some power on two separate occasions. On each side of the sputters the car seemed to respond fine, but when it did sputter there was a severe lack of power. I got to and from work just fine, but while letting the car idle in the parking spot of my apartment for a minute before shutting off the engine the check engine light finally came on. The following morning the car again started rough (as if it were misfiring/running on 3 of 4 cylinders) and this time it took a good minute before smoothing out. However, after the car smoothed out I experienced no issues on the way to work, no sputtering, no loss of power, nothing. Doing some initial online research I feel that the problem may be one (or more) of the following:
-Fuel pump
-Vacuum lines
-O2 Sensor
-Spark plugs (they are original)
-Fuel Filter (it is actually past due for replacement)
I plan on getting this checked out ASAP, but that still may be 2ish weeks away with my schedule. Some similar reports say that I may be having a 'lean mixture' issue (not getting enough fuel), but I haven't had the time to check the code. My question is, how "safe" is it to continue driving my car with the current situation? Is it at a super high risk of failure/random stalling during rush hour? Will it cause any damage to the engine if there is a cylinder misfire upon start up? I was also wondering if the car would be reasonably reliable to drive on a ~400 mile road trip on an upcoming weekend, but I am making plans as if it is not.
Additional Details:-Tried charging the fuel lines (car to 'ON' then 'OFF' position 3-4 times), had no effect on the morning start-up-Commute to/from work is about 20 miles
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So this is reason #345 why I should never have let my wife drive my F-350. I am in the Army, and I got a frantic call from my wife (I missed the first 7) saying that the truck died and won't start. I drive all the way to the truck, pop the hood and discover:
1) there is no coolant; and
2) there is no oil (actually just EXTREMELY low on both).
So, I do what any good Soldier does, I push the truck all the way back home (downhill mostly), buy 5 quarts of oil and a jug of 50/50 coolant, fill up both and try to start the engine.
The last time it ran out of oil (small leak on a seal that I didn't know about) in 2006, all I had to do was fill the oil, turn the key, and press the gas until it kicked over (don't judge me, I was a dumb LT). I did this again this time (now, I am a dumb CPT) but now it: 1) idles very rough; and 2) won't start unless I press down on the gas when I turn the key. There is no gauge light when it does this. I read the thread on the UVCH, but I am concerned I might have done something horrible to my truck.
2003 Ford F-350 7.3L
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ok so let me start by saying, my name is Tim, I own a 1999 Ford Ranger 6 cyl, 3.0L truck, I bought it brand new in 1999 and drove it for a few years and then took it off the road for 3-4 years then last year I went to put it back on the road and I couldn't get it running.
I took it to the dealer and they replaced a key switch module. since then the ranger seems to lack power. It also idles erratically when you first start it in the morning too.
not sure whats going on here but the engine light is on,
I get codes P0171 & P0174 (too lean bank 1 and too lean bank 2)
I would also like to note that I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, transmission filter, MAF sensor, IAT sensor, PCV valve, EGR valve, TPS sensor, idle control solenoid, fuel pressure regulator & new plugs. I have also checked for vacuum leaks with no avail.
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I have a 1999 F150 4x4 5.4, I pulled the heads due to blown head gasket. Prior to pulling heads truck started and run fine other than miss on #1 cylinder. I timed the engine according to Haynes manual and posts on this site. Truck is now hard to start and idles very rough. I does seem to smooth out when reving the engine and seems to have plenty of power. Cant find any vacuum leaks or unplugged wires.
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2003 7.3 excursion.. The truck starts every time revs up and idles about 3 seconds then the rpms drop and it tries to stall out catches itself then revs backup and idles rough similar to if you have got air in the fuel lines from changing the fuel filter.. About 1 in five times the truck will stall out and it starts and immediately and idles rough but the rpms and everything runs at speed and rpms don't drop again! This is a reman engine/transmission recently installed.. The mechanic who installed it was unable to figure the problem out.
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01 7.3. Cranks, won't start. Tank was at 1/4 but is full now. The lift pump runs, I can feel and hear that the motor is spinning when I cycle the key. I removed the fuel filter and cycled the key and get no fuel into the bowl. It looks like the lines are stainless from the pump to the tank so I doubt it is sucking air. I pressurized the tank with a shop vac and I get fuel coming into the filter housing. Am I missing something obvious? I have never seen an electric pump that would run and not pump fuel. I removed the suction line at the pump and don't feel any suction there.
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After my 95 GCL wouldn't start and was towed to Jeep dealership, the problem was diagnosed has the fuel pump. I went to pick up my Jeep. Started and ran beautifully..but I noticed the air bag light was on, and wasn't that way before it wouldn't start. Went back into dealership and told'em..they told me nothing they did would have any bearing on the air bag or the dash warning light. What could have happened to cause this problem? I have re-booted the electrical system (more than once) by disconnecting the battery.
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I have been replacing brake lines on our old rusty Cherokee when I discovered the evap line from fuel tank is partially missing, rusted away near the back. I have never noticed raw fuel smell, but what issues will this problem cause? I will replace the line if needed which apparently involves dropping the fuel tank.
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The carb on my 460 in my truck is acting funny. It almost sounds like a dragster It Idles really rough. I tried setting the Idle mixture screws on the side of the metering block. I bottomed them out and them turned them out 1 1/4 turns. I started turning them in till I got the highest reading on my vacuum gauge, about 13 hg. The screws are only about 1/4 turn from being bottomed out. It was running smoother, then it stalled when I restarted it, it started running really rough again.
The exhaust smells of gas. I turned the screws all the way in just to see what would happen, I thought it should stall but it didn't. I had my timing light hooked up and checked it now and then during all of this and it didn't change at all. The screws had almost no resistance to turning, shouldn't they have some resistance?
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I just rebuilt the Autolite 4100 on the 390 in the 62 T-Bird I just purchased. Starts up and idles great, but when I apply slight throttle, the motor shuts off. If I apply a lot of throttle quickly, it picks up fine and drives with no problems. No sputtering, or backfiring. I just slightly apply the throttle, the RPMs drop, and the motor cuts out completely. Starts right back up when I turn the key, but does the same thing, at any temp.
I originally thought it was a vacuum leak, but checked what few vacuum lines there were, with no leaks to be found. Hooked up my vacuum gauge and it read at a steady 15psi.
New mechanical fuel pump, haven't checked the fuel pressure yet, but I installed a see through inline filter, and it's filled up and pumps fine.
Timing is at 8 degrees, and vacuum advance is hooked up to the only vacuum line in the carb. New cap, rotor, plugs and wires.
I adjusted the idle mixture screws down until the idle dropped, then turned them out a half turn (I've read on here it should only be a 1/4 turn, so I'll adjust that later today). When I was messing with the carb yesterday, I noticed the inlet check ball retaining screw was leaking a bit of fuel, so I went over the carb and checked all the screws and tightened down what needed it.
When I rebuilt the carb, I left the original needle & seat assembly, since they were in great shape, and the ones in the rebuild kit were much smaller. The choke plate needs to be adjusted, as it doesn't open up all the way at full temp, but the engine did the same thing with the plate held open all the way open.
I've gone through everything else I think it could be, so I'm figuring it's the carb. This is my second carb rebuild ever (first was a Motorcraft 2150) and it went smoothly, and I double checked the floats and measurements.
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My 99 F350 cranks, but won't start, and the "water in fuel" light on the dash stays on while cranking. I have never paid close attention to it in the past. Is it supposed to be on while cranking?
I drained the water from the yellow lever located on top of the engine, and tried to start it. The light went off for the first few cranks, but again the truck still will not start.
I just came from a 10 hours round trip to NC. I filled the truck up two times from gas stations on the way. Is it possible that the fuel is bad? I drove on the same fuel almost 3/4 of this tank and now at the last 1/4 I am having this issue.
A little update:
I took the top of the fuel bowl off to see what the filter looks like, and it is nasty and completely black. I could not tell if the fuel in the bowl contained any water, but it looks greenish and uniform, no the obvious separation that happens when you mix water and oil.
Could the fuel filter be the problem?
A little history about the truck. It's always hard to start if cold and not plugged in overnight. I know it's the glow plugs relay, so I just keep it plugged in all the time until I get a chance to fix it.
IDM was acting up shutting off half of my engine, but I took it off, cleaned it, plugged it back in and it has been working fine for over 2 months.
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