Cherokee :: 1995 GCL - Air Bag Light On After Fuel Pump Replacement
Dec 27, 2012
After my 95 GCL wouldn't start and was towed to Jeep dealership, the problem was diagnosed has the fuel pump. I went to pick up my Jeep. Started and ran beautifully..but I noticed the air bag light was on, and wasn't that way before it wouldn't start. Went back into dealership and told'em..they told me nothing they did would have any bearing on the air bag or the dash warning light. What could have happened to cause this problem? I have re-booted the electrical system (more than once) by disconnecting the battery.
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1995 Isuzu Rodeo. Replaced water pump, thermostat, timing belt & components. Now it over heats & no heat in cab. I was told to "burp" the cooling system but can't find the bleed valve. Is there even one on the V6 engine???
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I recently had my fuel pump replaced in my 2005 GTI ... twice. Both times, the fuel gauge no longer shows a full tank, and doesn't show empty tank correctly. Is there some way to reset the gauge? Is the pump somehow tied to the gauge, or did the mechanics mess the float up when they changed the pump? Sadly I had it repaired somewhere other then the dealer.
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My manual transmission 1995 Jeep Cherokee today refused to go into any gear after I had stopped for a light. After pushing it to the side of the road I was about to call AAA when it went into gear and worked perfectly thereafter. This happened once before about a month ago. What could be the problem and how likely am I to get stuck for good?
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Geo won't start. It has a new battery and air filter. Just replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. I don't hear the fuel pump "whirring" when I put the key in the ignition (to on position). All the dashboard lights come on when the car is in on position.
I suspect the relay or the fuse, but having trouble finding the correct one of each. What does the relay look like? i.e. part number? What is the spec for the fuse? 20amp 30 amp? This has been a great car.
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I'm working on one of our fleet vehicles here, a 1995 Explorer. about 2 months back, it stalled out. Got it back to the shop and turned the key on .... I couldn't hear the fuel pump. I replaced the fuel pump and the fuel pump relay. Vehicle started right up and seemed to run O.K. About 2 weeks ago, it stalled out again, same symptoms, acts like it runs out of gas and can't hear fuel pump.So, I have been playing with it and find that it starts up great in the cool mornings. In the afternoon when the temps are hotter, it won't start (can't hear fuel pump). The following morning when temps are cool, it will start right up and can hear the fuel pump. I almost wrote this one off as a defective fuel pump, but I'm not sure on this one.
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My daughter has a 2004 Toyota Corolla and the "service engine" light came on. The diagnosis was that the water pump needed to be replaced.
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So last week something happened that I've never had happen before. I was dropping my daughter off at school and I noticed that my dash lights weren't on. My headlights still worked and the blinkers did to.
When I got home and parked it, I checked out all the fuses. There was a 20 amp fuse that was blown, so I replaced it and then checked the relays under the hood. I turned on the key to check the dash lights and they still didn't work. The 20 amp fuse blew again, so I replaced it again. Now the dash lights work again.
However, when I tried to start it, it would turn over, but the fuel pump isn't turning on.
Long story short, I've replaced all 4 relays under the hood, installed a new fuel pump and also replaced some bulbs in my taillights and sides over the front tires. It turns over when I try to start it, but the fuel pump still isn't "kicking" on and it won't start. I feel like somehow, power isn't getting to the fuel pump.
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I have a '95 Chevy Caprice Classic 4.3L Sedan, and it cranks but does not start.This started happening after about a year of the car just sitting in the driveway. Before she sat for that year, she ran just fine.
I am under the impression that the problem is the fuel pump, it is NOT running when the ignition key is turned to the "on" position,this is very confusing because a volt meter placed on the connectors going directly into the pump motor shows 12+ Volts when the key is turned, for about 2 seconds, as it should, however the pump motor does not run. Also, I have already replaced the pump relay AND the entire pump assembly (though the pump I used as a replacement was also pulled from a junkyard vehicle).
The MOST confusing part is, when either of the fuel pump motors that I have are plugged directly into the car battery, they run just fine.
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My issue. 95 short Aerostar, Vulcan engine, A4LD trans. Just got it last week. Bought a new trans and when I went to pull the van into the shop, it wouldn't start. Cranks but won't run. First thing I checked is fuel pressure, got zero. Pulled the kick panel and found the inertia switch, but the harness for the switch is getting 1.8 volts with the key in "ON" and the same with it in "START". IIRC it should be zero in RUN after a second or two (if the engine isn't actually running, that is), and 14 in START.
Checked all fuses in the panel by the steering column, they're good, and switched around the 3 relays by the battery. No good and I don't hear the FP relay when I turn the key. For now I'll run wires directly from the battery to the pump, just til I get the trans done, but it needs to be fixed anyway because I plan to make this van a DD. Here are my questions:
-Is there a second fuse panel I didn't find?
-Could this be a computer issue? If it is, would the computer fuse be blown?
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My 1995 ford ranger with a 3.0 will not start. It acted like the fuel pump was going out so I replaced it. I also replaced cmp sensor and the camshaft synchronizer due to old cmp sensor broke and messed up the synchronizer. My truck is getting fuel and spark but still will not start. Where do i go next?
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My 95 chevy 1500 pickup is having fuel pump issues. Somewhere between the relay and the sending unit. Pulled the tank, and put power directly to both the pump and the sending unit. They both run. Put in new relay, still not turning on the pump. Do not know if this is related, but the switch to turn on the interior light when you open the door does not work on the drivers side door. If I pull on the switch the light will come on.
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So, the fuel pump was replaced in june after the tank was run dry and it wouldnt turn over. Everything went fine with the pump replacement, except for the lights were dim and there was a short in the taillights after the battery was put back in. I found a severed wire to the taillights, which seemed to fix some of the problem and was going to replace the bulbs for the dimness that night. Drove to work then was going to drive to the grocery store with the girlfriend and when we pulled out of the driveway the truck stalled. We restarted it and it stalled and turn on 2-3 back to back before losing all power. Took the bed off to see if i missed anymore wires but everything looked fine. We pushed it into the garage and when i went to put it into park, the lights flashed and went off. What could be causing this?
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I changed my fuel pump cause it died and now my mileage is about 100 less per tank? What could it be.
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I seem to remember a old post but I can't find it! Someone replaced the fuel pump by cutting a hole through the floor.
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Just replaced the fuel pump in my 99 Suburban. Replacement is an AC Delco unit. When I tried to start it, nothing. Engine turns over but doesn't start. Checked all connections and getting voltage down to new harness. replaced relay from GM dealership and also fuel filter. I used to hear the old pump prime when turning on the ignition but don't hear anything with the new pump. Could it be a bad pump out of the box?
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After my electric water pump was replaced under the recall my mileage went from 45 mpg to about 30 mpg. Part of this might be due to new tires and cold snowy weather (CT !) but I have never seen such a drastic drop in performance (2005 Prius).
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So the fuel pump module on my truck is falling apart, and I figured I might as well replace it....
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I've got a 2000 ranger w 158k miles, been having issues with a misfire over 65mph, and it's been throwing a check engine O2 sensor code. One of the probable reasons for the O2 code read low fuel pressure... so my husband got the bright idea of replacing the fuel pump.
That turned out to be a big story in and of itself. BUT we got it replaced with one that works, however.... now it won't start!!! You have to pump the gas and like crazy and hope that it'll start, it will eventually... but not without a bunch of coaching.
Once it's running, it's running ok. The first day after replacing the pump it was AWESOME, ran like it used to years ago, no misfire, smooth as could be, no rattle, no check engine light. But it all came back it's misfiring again, rattling when you accelerate, and the check engine is back on. I haven't had a chance to go run and get the codes ran again, maybe tomorrow I'll be able to do that in between errands. Oh, and we are gonna replace the fuel filter at some point in this week...
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- Fuse Box - Part # 3C7T-14A067-DC Engineering Number on white label.
- Ford Dealer Part # 3C7Z-14A068-DB
I have a 2004 Ford Excursion 6.8L 4x4 that has a bad fuel pump relay. I am looking for a used replacement fuse panel.
Of all these number and letters which of them tells me the real part number? Does the last two letters mean anything "DC" or "DB"?
So I don't get one for a diesel, what is the prefix for the diesel? I am assuming the 3C7T is gas and the year model?
Also, will this fuse panel interchange with a F250/F350 6.8L or do I need to stick with a fuse panel from an Excursion?
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I have a 1988 Ranger 2.9 V6 that sits most of the time. The fuel pump quit working so I removed the bed and replaced the pump in the tank and the inline filter near the engine. I did not replace the inline high pressure pump because it still made a humming sound so I assumed it is working. Now when I turn the switch on I hear both pumps working but the truck will not start. It seems like it wants to fire or fires for just a second but just wont completely start. Is the system supposed to be primed and if so how?. I suspect a fuel problem but I dont know how to check pressure or check to see if fuel is getting to the engine. What to do next?
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