Chevrolet - 1500 :: 1995 - Fuel Pump Bad Somewhere Between The Relay And Sending Unit
Jul 29, 2013
My 95 chevy 1500 pickup is having fuel pump issues. Somewhere between the relay and the sending unit. Pulled the tank, and put power directly to both the pump and the sending unit. They both run. Put in new relay, still not turning on the pump. Do not know if this is related, but the switch to turn on the interior light when you open the door does not work on the drivers side door. If I pull on the switch the light will come on.
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My plan to clean the fuel injectors on my 2008 Silverado LS 4.8L V8 came to an abrupt halt when I was unable to disable the fuel pump relay because it is missing from the spot where it should be located according to the schematic in the owner's manual. Would removing the "fuel system control module" (fuse #21) instead of the fuel pump relay work?
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I have finally gotten my 93 Explorer back on the road. Now I have a few things that I am trying to get fixed.
The first things that I need to get repaired is my Fuel Sending Unit replaced. How hard is this and what kind of pitfalls am I looking at.
The problem that I am having is that my fuel gauge is never right. The other day I ran out of gas, but the gauge said full. Go firgure.
Anyway I have been told that the problem is my sending unit in the fuel tank. So is there any advise on this repair.
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I am looking for the location of the fuel pump relay on a 1997 Chevy S10. There is a bank of relays on the firewall on the passenger side, but I do not have any info on which relay is for the fuel pump.
I briefly looked at this vehicle where they had it towed to after it had stalled on the road and they couldn't get it to start.I had no tools at the time, but not hearing the hum of the pump, and no fuel at the test port on the rail, all pointed to a fuel problem. The owners boyfriend took over from there and replaced the pump this past Saturday and still no pump.
I suggested that he find the right relay and test it, but he skipped that part. Which of those realy are for the pump??????
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Replaced fuel pump which is fine now, but installed new lock ring and gasket and getting fuel seepage around the sending unit area.
The gasket that came with the fuel pump seems kind of thin to provide a good seal here.
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Several years ago I had to replace the fuel pump - truck had about 100,000 miles. Within the last 4 - 5 months I have replaced the fuel pump twice and just today (about two months since the last replacement), the fuel pump has failed again. That has been the pattern now for the last several months. I have had the work done by one of the reputable car repair shops in town - they have also done work on my 2004 Impala with no issues with the repair. There must be something else going on besides just the fuel pump going bad. What would cause so many fuel pump failures.
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Been reading about the various ways a fuel level sending unit can fail; think I have a first!
Purchased a new sending unit on eBay for less than $25; dealer wanted over $70!
Dropped the tank, pulled out the pump, and took a close look at the unit; at first, I thought I had play in the bushing as others have found.
However, looking closer, turns out one of the two springed 'tangs' that ride up and down on the potentiometer had broken off, and was not making contact with the board! No amount of fuel additive would have fixed this!
1 hour job to complete the job, and everything works as it should! Terrible pic, but the tangs are inside the black square, and the one farthest from the pivot point is broke....
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I just changed out the fuel sending unit in my 08 Accent and now the gauge doesn't work. Everything appears to be plugged in.
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I recently dropped my tank and one of the connector clips broke taking it off. How can I find anther connector or clip, I have looked at the ford dealer, napa and oriellys with not luck. It seems as if they don't exist. The ford dealer wants me to buy a new fuel line. Also I did something that now I know is not good but I cut the connector out to take to the parts stores and they said that it can not be put back together. Is this true?
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So I did the hutch mod several months ago and all was fine.. Couple days ago I went to fill up, cheap diesel, for upcoming trip.
Fuel gauge was working and showing just less than 1/2 tank. Went to Walmart with gift card and started pumping. Got to talking with duramax owner and noticed fuel was finished. did not pop off like the level was high in fill tube just can to end of money..
SO I get in, turn on key to get mileage to mark down miles, gallon, amount etc and noticed the fuel gauge look like it wanted to go up and then it drops to "E" and the fuel light comes on..
Yesterday I drop spare and check sending unit connection which was OK so must be issue with sending unit. ?? So I might need to take camper shell off, fiberglass, and lift bed.. too much fuel in tank and not going to be driving it enough to get down. What size are the bolts holding bed to frame and how do I need do this??
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I have a '95 Chevy Caprice Classic 4.3L Sedan, and it cranks but does not start.This started happening after about a year of the car just sitting in the driveway. Before she sat for that year, she ran just fine.
I am under the impression that the problem is the fuel pump, it is NOT running when the ignition key is turned to the "on" position,this is very confusing because a volt meter placed on the connectors going directly into the pump motor shows 12+ Volts when the key is turned, for about 2 seconds, as it should, however the pump motor does not run. Also, I have already replaced the pump relay AND the entire pump assembly (though the pump I used as a replacement was also pulled from a junkyard vehicle).
The MOST confusing part is, when either of the fuel pump motors that I have are plugged directly into the car battery, they run just fine.
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I've got a 2003 F250, SD, 5.4L Triton that I've owned since new. It has 205,000 kms on it and has run flawlessly since owning it.
Yesterday I went to use the truck after it sitting for about 2 weeks, which isn't uncommon for this time of year as I'm in the landscaping business. It never sits long, though as I make a point of using all the trucks, periodically, just to "blow the stink off" as my Dad would say.
Anyway, when I fired it up the gauge was drop-dead below "E" so I go to fill it up and it takes in fuel and it won't take a drop more. I got under the truck and knocked on the tank in various spots and the tank seems almost plum full.
When I power the truck off and back on, all the gauges come to life and settle on their appropriate readings, except for the fuel gauge. It powers up to full and then drops to below "E" as though I had turned the truck off again.
My question is, am I reasonably safe to assume my sending unit has bitten the dust? I figured that since the gauge comes to life upon startup and then drops to "E" after the rest of the gauges initialize, the fuel gauge itself probably isn't the problem?
Is there a chance that as I drive it over the next few days, and the tank empties, maybe the "sloshing" of fuel might dislodge a stuck part?
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ok, i just became the proud owner of a 71 dodge dart.. fuel pump was not working, and am converting to an electric (airtex e8016s) and am told i need a relay. airtex doesn't seem to have one, is there another i can use? fairly new at this sort of thing, but have fixed a 72 honda motorbike, so not afraid of engines or whatnot.
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I have a 1999 Chevy Suburban. The blower fan for the heater/AC was only working on high so I replaced the resistor and relay at the same time. Still no change so I replaced the switch and 30 amp fuse. The first three settings worked but not the high. I checked continuity of the wires between the switch and relay and they were fine. I then thought it might be the blower fan which I replaced but still not working on high.
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I've got a noise that has me puzzled on my 1995 Chevy C1500 (2wd). I hear a mid to high pitched noise when I'm driving at between 45 and 55 mph (70-90 kph). It varies in pitch depending on the speed I'm going, starts at around 45 and goes away above 55, and also tends to go away if I lift off the gas. The sound occurs in any gear, but always at the same speeds. My leading suspect is the differential, but I haven't ruled out anything yet. I pulled the differential plug and the fluid isn't very dark.
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My F250 heavy duty isnt getting voltage to the fuel pump relay.....
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My 1995 chevy c1500 cuts out at idle or the moment the brakes are applied to shift into drive. I replaced the passenger wheel cylinder and bled the brakes and it ran fine for a few hours, then the idle problem stated again. I have check the map senor and a few other electronic component as my mechanic said the problem " might be electrical."
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I have a '95 Chevy K1500 5.7 and am wanting to install a freeze plug block heater, but I'm having problems knocking out the existing freeze plug and would like some hints. It is located directly behind the oil filter, so I'm having problems getting enough leverage.
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I have a 1995 4X4 Chevy Silverado. Well tonight the lower radiator hose came off, and all the coolant drained out while my wife was driving it around town. She noticed that the temp gauge spiked, and tried to get home. The truck stalled, was able to restart it for a moment, stalled again and now when we try to start it up there is a low spinning noise coming from the area around the starter. I think it might be the starter trying to engage the flywheel. My question is whether or not this could because the motor has seized, or is there another symptom that could potentially make this noise.
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When pumping fuel in 07 silverado classic 1500 4.8L the gas pump at the station continues to cut off. Took me 20 minutes to pump. I now have a check engine light on and the code says it code be the EVAP vent solenoid or the purge solenoid. Truck seems to be running fine other than stronger fuel odor at the exhaust. which solenoid need replaced....
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I have a 1995 Silverado Diesel 4X4 with 145K miles. I only drive about once a week to take trash to the dump. It's been running great until yesterday. I put in drive and went to pull out of my drive way and truck won't move. It makes a terrible sound in the rear of the truck but won't budge. I have checked transmission fluid level and appears to be good. I say appears because my drive way is on a steep incline and it's backed in, bed on the down side of hill.
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