Chevrolet - 1500 :: 1995 - Whining Sound At 50 Mph
May 1, 2013
I've got a noise that has me puzzled on my 1995 Chevy C1500 (2wd). I hear a mid to high pitched noise when I'm driving at between 45 and 55 mph (70-90 kph). It varies in pitch depending on the speed I'm going, starts at around 45 and goes away above 55, and also tends to go away if I lift off the gas. The sound occurs in any gear, but always at the same speeds. My leading suspect is the differential, but I haven't ruled out anything yet. I pulled the differential plug and the fluid isn't very dark.
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My question is what could cause a high idle?I have a 95 Chevy pickup 4x4 with a 5.7... Recently the lower radiator hose fell came off the radiator, dumping the liquids all over the street. The motor shut down, and every time we went to start it there would be a loud whining/spinning noise. We thought that the motor seized, so we pulled the plugs, turned the motor by the crank bolt.Turned out that the starter went bad, the spindle and bendex werent catching on the flywheel.
After examining the flywheel teeth, and gapping the plugs to the recommended manufacture gap, (they werent when we pulled them), we got a new starter installed. It started right up! But it ran at a high idle, around 1500-2000 RPM. I did not have a chance to really let it warm up (it was cold and raining). Now there is a gray flexhose that is running from the air filter housing down to the exhaust manifold. If i remember correctly, it was not seated very well when I took it off. Could it be causing too much of a vacuum?
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My 1995 chevy c1500 cuts out at idle or the moment the brakes are applied to shift into drive. I replaced the passenger wheel cylinder and bled the brakes and it ran fine for a few hours, then the idle problem stated again. I have check the map senor and a few other electronic component as my mechanic said the problem " might be electrical."
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I have a '95 Chevy K1500 5.7 and am wanting to install a freeze plug block heater, but I'm having problems knocking out the existing freeze plug and would like some hints. It is located directly behind the oil filter, so I'm having problems getting enough leverage.
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I have a 1995 4X4 Chevy Silverado. Well tonight the lower radiator hose came off, and all the coolant drained out while my wife was driving it around town. She noticed that the temp gauge spiked, and tried to get home. The truck stalled, was able to restart it for a moment, stalled again and now when we try to start it up there is a low spinning noise coming from the area around the starter. I think it might be the starter trying to engage the flywheel. My question is whether or not this could because the motor has seized, or is there another symptom that could potentially make this noise.
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My 95 chevy 1500 pickup is having fuel pump issues. Somewhere between the relay and the sending unit. Pulled the tank, and put power directly to both the pump and the sending unit. They both run. Put in new relay, still not turning on the pump. Do not know if this is related, but the switch to turn on the interior light when you open the door does not work on the drivers side door. If I pull on the switch the light will come on.
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I have a 1995 Silverado Diesel 4X4 with 145K miles. I only drive about once a week to take trash to the dump. It's been running great until yesterday. I put in drive and went to pull out of my drive way and truck won't move. It makes a terrible sound in the rear of the truck but won't budge. I have checked transmission fluid level and appears to be good. I say appears because my drive way is on a steep incline and it's backed in, bed on the down side of hill.
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I have a 95 chevy silverado. 305 with an automatic transmission. I was driving down the street at about 30mph when the power went out on me.
The engine stayed on and all lights stayed on. I could rev the engine but the truck wouldn't move.
I then had a friend tow to my house and i let it sit overnight trying to decide what to do next.
The next day I went out and started it and it and was able to drive it again for a short distance at low speed and then it did the same thing again.
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2001 Chevy impala with 2 problems. First, I get a whining sound that lasts about 1 min after the car has run for about 5 min, and as soon as the noise starts the engine temp goes up (high, but not in the red). It's not the accessory belt, revving the engine doesn't do anything and either does putting the car in neutral. I can get the tone to slightly change by turning the a/c on and off, but it doesn't stop the whining. It sounds like it is coming from the radiator fan and when I tapped the one fan the other day, the noise stopped, not sure if it was just a coincidence. Second, I get a popping noise coming from the front of the car when accelerating. I don't think it's the shocks because I compressed the shocks by bouncing on the hood and got no noise.
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I'm in a 93 S10/Sonoma.
I'd been having a problem for a while where if I turned the key, sometimes it would feel like it was trying to crank and would instead just make a whining sound which died down when I stopped trying to start the car. Inevitably, though, I could give it a second go and it would start up just fine.
Eventually I realized that if I barely turned the key to a very specific point it would start up consistently with zero problems. I called my brother, who advised me it was probably the ignition failing me and if I had a workaround I might be able to go for a while but I'd need to get it fixed eventually.
Well, this morning after spending ten minutes trying to find the "sweet spot" I gave up and decided the ignition must have done as he'd forecast and given up. I was under the impression a locksmith could do this so I called around, but they informed me if the key was turning, it wasn't the ignition at all and was something internal.
So is it the ignition, do you think? The key still turns just as it ought, it just goes NRRRRrrrrrr...rrr... instead of starting.
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Transmission comes out of gear and has a loud whirring sound when in reverse, but not every time. it has happened when driving at about 60 mph (twice) Sometimes it happens a couple times in a row sometimes it is ok for a couple weeks.
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I recently replaced the fuel pump and afterward started noticing a buzzing/whining sound coming from under the hood. The noise goes away when I remove the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator and after the car has been driven for 1/2 to 1 hour. Sometimes it comes back, sometime not, but it always is there at a cold start. Had the shop take a look and they said the fuel pump is ok and recommended replacing the fuel pressure regulator. I did but that but it did not solve it. I suppose I should check the fuel pressure. 2000 Silverado 5.3L ...
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I have a 1995 k1500 when I turn the key on no lights on the dash if I wait 5-10 second you hear a click sound in steering column and the dash lights come on and starts fine. ???
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Last week my truck started to stall a little bit. As I drove it a little longer, it stalled all the way out. It started back up fine but when I gave it some gas, it cut off. This happened several times. I popped the hood and noticed the throttle body was a little loose. Thinking air may have gotten into the system,I tightened it back up. I started it up,put it in gear and it seemed to drive fine and it started stalling again.
While I was on the interstate, it would cut off, cut back on,cut off and then cut back on. Finally it completely stalled out. I had to have it towed to my house. I hooked my code scanner up to it and it through code 44 (O2 sensor) and code 54 (Fuel pump relay or something like that). What could be causing my truck to run this way.
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I've got a "new" Blazer -95 4.3 vin W about a month ago. It has run about 170,000 km.
But now it looks like it was a bad buy, it runs bad. The rpm starts jumping between 1500 - 2500. Suddenly the break and ABS warning lights in dashboard lights up, and sometimes all black out and it stalls.
At first it started acting like this when towing a trailer on the highway, doing 80 km/h. But now it does it at any speed.
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I own a 95 chevy 1500 with a 5.7 engine. The other day I'm driving home and my truck completely stalls out and has no power what so ever. To be more specific I didn't have lights, radio, key buzz nothing. Well by the time I got the under the hood I had power again and it cranked right up. I put it in drive and 5 minutes down the road and it stalls again with no power what so ever. I've been having problems recently with it stalling at stop signs/red lights but never with a loss of electrical systems. What this could be?
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I have a 97 chevy and the only way to start it is to jump the starter relay, not sure if it is the key switch ot the nuetral saftey switch.
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I have a 1997 Chevy C1500 with about 85k miles on it. I had the breaks checked and replaced over a year ago and this problem is pretty recent. When I got the brakes done I had the pads replaced on the front disks and I had the back drum pads and some brake part replaced that was inside the drum. Looked like a little hydraulic piston of sorts (sorry, not to up on my car lingo here lol)
My issue is my ABS light comes on from time to time for no apparent reason at all (at least that I notice). I can be just sitting at a stop light and I will notice it comes on, stays on, then randomly will go off. The car seems to break fine, especially at higher speeds (30-70mph). On occasion however at low speeds (5-15mph) when coming to a some what sudden stop my brakes seem to skip? Kind of feels like a grinding feeling. No gravel or slick road, just plane ol pavement. I think this is the ABS system but Ive only ever driven one other car with ABS breaks that the I believe the ABS system activated while stopping on ice and it felt the exact same.
I have not noticed if the light comes on during these low speed stops, as I am just now putting all these pieces of a puzzle together to figure out if something is really wrong with my ABS system or if its just a sensor or something.
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I have a 1997 Chevy C1500 with about 85k miles on it. I had the breaks checked and replaced over a year ago and this problem is pretty recent. When I got the brakes done I had the pads replaced on the front disks and I had the back drum pads and some brake part replaced that was inside the drum. Looked like a little hydraulic piston of sorts...
My issue is my ABS light comes on from time to time for no apparent reason at all (at least that I notice). I can be just sitting at a stop light and I will notice it comes on, stays on, then randomly will go off. The car seems to break fine, especially at higher speeds (30-70mph). On occasion however at low speeds (5-15mph) when coming to a some what sudden stop my brakes seem to skip? Kind of feels like a grinding feeling. No gravel or slick road, just plane ol pavement. I think this is the ABS system but Ive only ever driven one other car with ABS breaks that the I believe the ABS system activated while stopping on ice and it felt the exact same.
I have not noticed if the light comes on during these low speed stops, as I am just now putting all these pieces of a puzzle together to figure out if something is really wrong with my ABS system or if its just a sensor or something.
I would like to have some knowledge or information in case I have to take it to a mechanic to have it looked at. The last people (Just Breaks) I took it to really tried to screw me over. After they worked on it the Emergency break light was on and his fix was to just "unplug" the sensor. I said Heck no! Fix it! after three bleeds it tripped the sensor off. So I am a bit hesitant to have them looked at after that experience.
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Infrequently (once every couple weeks) my 2002 Suburban won't start. The starter seems to work properly as the engine tries to turn over and even seems to initially start for a fraction of a second but then dies. If I wait 10 to 30 minutes it will usually start without a problem. This problem does not seem to be related to outside temp, recent use or car position. After dealing with this occasionally inconvenient problem for months I took the car to a service shop and was told that if they could not reproduce the problem that trying to fix it would be a wild goose chase. When the problem occurred again I took it to another shop who kept the car for 3-4 days but was unable to reproduce the problem.
They suggested that there was a problem with the fuel pump but did not want to replace it unless they were sure that was the problem. I then spoke to the Chevy dealership shop who also said it was most likely the fuel pump. In my frustration dealing with this problem I took the car back to my local shop and ask them to replace the fuel pump ($800). Unfortunately, the intermittent problem has persisted and I'm not sure what to do next. I did have an after market remote ignition added a number of years ago and took it back to them to see if this could be related and they said no way. I have also wondered about the security system being a problem in that my rear hatch cargo door does not lock even though the other doors lock normally.
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Car: 1993 Chevy C 1500 (2WD) manual transmission Background: The car sat unused in a garage for 2 weeks (no problems before this) the first drive after its break, the pickup almost felt like it was slipping and power was not getting to the wheels. The vibrating began the next day. The vibrating is very obvious and unpleasant under acceleration at approximately 2000 RPMs in any gear. Grease was injected via grease zerk into the center carrier bearing area and the vibrating was marginally better. Today the back end of the truck was lifted up and put into gear and brought up to 30 MPH. The pickup was then lowered and a test drive revealed that the vibrating was considerably diminished.
An inspection of the drive shaft reveals:no vibrating in neutral the U-joints are not loose or leaking; the drive shaft has 2 small dents which are countered on the opposite side by weights;the drive shaft will move up and down ~1 inch or less if pushed in bench press fashion near the carrier bearing;the drive shaft does not move in the direction of the length of the vehicle;the drive shaft will rotate freely 1/16th to 1/8th of a turn before it is stopped by the back of the transmission or the rear differential; no mud clods in wheel wells;new tires properly inflated.
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