Chevrolet - 1500 :: 1999 - Replaced Resistor And Relay But Blower Fan Not Working?
Feb 3, 2013
I have a 1999 Chevy Suburban. The blower fan for the heater/AC was only working on high so I replaced the resistor and relay at the same time. Still no change so I replaced the switch and 30 amp fuse. The first three settings worked but not the high. I checked continuity of the wires between the switch and relay and they were fine. I then thought it might be the blower fan which I replaced but still not working on high.
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I have installed my 6th resistor and they continue to burn up, leaving #5 only.
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2000 Alero. Wife reported to me she had no blower motor. I pulled the motor and it tested good. Next I replaced the resistor with one from auto zone. Now I have blower in all but the 5th and highest position. I suspect a bad new resistor but I left it for now because it's a pain to remove.
Could I have got a bad resistor? In my experience a bad resistor will give you high and nothing else.
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I replaced the blower motor resistor on a 2010 F150 with dual climate control where the blower was stuck on high.
After replacing the resistor, now the lower speeds work fine, but when placed on high speed, the fan completely shuts down. Replace with the old resistor, and it only runs on high.
How to proceed, or what else might be the problem?
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Ok, I've read about the blower motor resistor, and everyone says you should have HIGH speed on the fan.
2002 Excursion with digital display.
I turn the truck on, then turn on the blower. A small puff of air comes out then shuts off completely. I can hear the direction doors opening when i change between foot and face A/C.
Is this the blower resistor that needs changing?
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2003 Limited explorer 237k with auto climate controls. 95 degrees out and a/c on when fan speed began going up and down a few times and then completely off. Won't work on heating as well. Rear fan works fine so I changed the resistor but still nothing. The control lights up when changed as usual but no fan. What to change next?
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I replaced the blower motor and the resistor. I just replaced the resistor again only after only a couple weeks. I noticed that two resistor plug wires (orange and black) were burnt. what can be done to fit this problem.
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My plan to clean the fuel injectors on my 2008 Silverado LS 4.8L V8 came to an abrupt halt when I was unable to disable the fuel pump relay because it is missing from the spot where it should be located according to the schematic in the owner's manual. Would removing the "fuel system control module" (fuse #21) instead of the fuel pump relay work?
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My 95 chevy 1500 pickup is having fuel pump issues. Somewhere between the relay and the sending unit. Pulled the tank, and put power directly to both the pump and the sending unit. They both run. Put in new relay, still not turning on the pump. Do not know if this is related, but the switch to turn on the interior light when you open the door does not work on the drivers side door. If I pull on the switch the light will come on.
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Having issues with the gauges in my truck. Usually only in the mornings, the tach will quit working and the speedo will go to 70 or 80 (this morning 100), the check gauges light comes on and the tranny is stuck usually in 3rd (auto). The indicator light for the gearshift (P,R,D,3,2,1) also goes out. I swapped out the fuel injector spider a while back and that's when the problem began.
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My blower works half of the time...from what I have researched it is more than likely the resistor. The thing is I can't find it..all the videos and pictures looks like they are the **** control control. Where this is located for the dual climate control?
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Coming home from the shore and turned of the air but not blower. No speeds at all. Fiddled with it until I got to a rest stop. KOEO, tapping the blower did nothing and swapping relays did nothing. 40 amp fuse and inside #22 ok. Had some time last week and discovered that power to blower was intermittent. Pulled the resistor pack plug and it was partially melted and upon removal of resistor pack I could see it was toast. Replaced that and pigtail and still got intermittent blower and intermittent voltage at blower connector.
Days go by with only a chance of it working but noticed it turned on more when I started the truck with the blower motor switch turned on. Maybe bad contacts somewhere or maybe loose connector in harness I thought. I had been meaning to replace some burned out cluster bulbs with new LED's, so I bought a motor switch and did both items. Left the front dash part off because nothing changed as far as the blower was concerned.
I downloaded the schematic to end the frustration and see the power going into Mode Selector switch, black/yellow. My test probe gets nothing through insulation with KOEO. Pulling the connector and probing the contact of the blk wire and I get blower all speeds but no light glowing from test probe as if I just grounding it. I have to add that 1/2 the time I got not blower and 1/2 the time I did, so It was intermittent there as well. Doing this again several times while restarting the key to run and still the same until after about 8 times, I finally get a light on the probe, probing the wire while its connected and I get it now with it disconnected and all seems ok. I have blower each time for the last dozen restarts and I cant make any sense of it.
I just have a feeling this good heat isn't going to last. Should I replace the Mode Selector Switch? It seems the relay coil wasn't energizing but now it is. Last week I shot the relay seat with contact cleaner and replaced it with new napa one out of frustration.
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Ranger wont fire! fuel pumps not pumping..... Jumped fuel pump relay and got both pumps working, but while jumping relay and cranking motor, still no fire. Plenty of fuel pressure though. got spark too. Replaced relay and no pumps working while key is turned to run or while cranking. I got to get this sweet puppy back on the tarmac...
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A few weeks ago my battery died and I had to jump start my car. After the jump start, my heat wasn't working - no air will blow out on heat or A/C. I checked the fuses - all good.
I pulled the blower motor out and tested it and it worked hooked up to a battery. At one point when the blower motor was still in the car I banged it with a hammer and it turned on momentarily then shut off again.
Since the blower motor seemed to work outside of the car, I assumed it was the resistor that was bad. Replaced , and still no heat.
Could the blower motor be bad and just have worked hooked to a battery intermittently?
What else could it be?
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Im out of options, the guy who usually scans my car for me is nowhere to be found. I changed the blower resistor and the blower still does not stay consistently on. My next guess is a bad relay somewhere.
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Where blower resistor is located?
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courtesy "dome" lights do not work when doors are opened or when dash switch is activated. Fuse (under driver seat) and Relay switch have been replaced. Can hear relay switch activated with dash switch. Lights work individual (toggle style ceiling lights). Dash lights dim with dash switch.
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Front blower resistor going bad over and over? I've replaced it 4 times and it will last a few months. Then the van comes back with high blow only. There is an electrical component built into the resistor that has failed every time. I don't know if this is built-in fusible link or what. I've measured the resistance on a new one, which was basically 0 ohms, so I doubt it's a resistor, and can't be a capacitor. I've been wondering if the blower motor is drawing too much juice ( never blown the fuse ). How many amps the blower should draw. This is on a 2001 Grand Caravan Sport w/ rear ac.
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The car is a '99 Volvo V70 XC AWD. The blower for the heater wasn't working this morning. When I left work it was blowing a little but not as high as it should on full.
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Our son has a 97 Chevy C/K pickup truck and told me about a problem that I thought was easy to solve, and we tried, but it wasn't. The driver's side front turn signal flashes fast. I checked the rear lights on that side and the turn signal wasn't working at all, let alone the tail lights, so I replaced the bulbs. They're the kind with the 2 filaments. I noticed the old bulbs were covered with some nasty yellow corrosion. Now the turn signal problem is the same and still no brake light on that side but he has tail lights at night. I tried to clean up the corrosion in the circuit board (none on the bottom light, which is the reverse light) with a neighbor's wire brush but it didn't change anything, so he suggested I change the circuit board.
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We have an 86 Chevy Silverado C10, all of the lights work on the truck except the headlights. We have replaced the switch, it has new head lamps. We hear that there is no fuse for these lights, that there is a circuit breaker but how to locate it or if it is really the issue. How to get the lights back on?
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