Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Blower Fan Intermittent / Resistor Pack Plug Partially Melted
Nov 6, 2016
Coming home from the shore and turned of the air but not blower. No speeds at all. Fiddled with it until I got to a rest stop. KOEO, tapping the blower did nothing and swapping relays did nothing. 40 amp fuse and inside #22 ok. Had some time last week and discovered that power to blower was intermittent. Pulled the resistor pack plug and it was partially melted and upon removal of resistor pack I could see it was toast. Replaced that and pigtail and still got intermittent blower and intermittent voltage at blower connector.
Days go by with only a chance of it working but noticed it turned on more when I started the truck with the blower motor switch turned on. Maybe bad contacts somewhere or maybe loose connector in harness I thought. I had been meaning to replace some burned out cluster bulbs with new LED's, so I bought a motor switch and did both items. Left the front dash part off because nothing changed as far as the blower was concerned.
I downloaded the schematic to end the frustration and see the power going into Mode Selector switch, black/yellow. My test probe gets nothing through insulation with KOEO. Pulling the connector and probing the contact of the blk wire and I get blower all speeds but no light glowing from test probe as if I just grounding it. I have to add that 1/2 the time I got not blower and 1/2 the time I did, so It was intermittent there as well. Doing this again several times while restarting the key to run and still the same until after about 8 times, I finally get a light on the probe, probing the wire while its connected and I get it now with it disconnected and all seems ok. I have blower each time for the last dozen restarts and I cant make any sense of it.
I just have a feeling this good heat isn't going to last. Should I replace the Mode Selector Switch? It seems the relay coil wasn't energizing but now it is. Last week I shot the relay seat with contact cleaner and replaced it with new napa one out of frustration.
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After running highway speed then stopping, the EBP valve is partially closing as you accelerate back up to speed. You can hear it in the sound of the motor, and you can see it on EGT's, which are rising quickly. This happens briefly then corrects. We unplugged the EBP sensor and the problem continued. Tube is clear.
If I monitor the EBP sensor, what values should I see if it is functioning properly?
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Truck is a 02' F350 xlt crew cab, 7.3l, 4x4, 4R100, manual transfer case, 125,000 miles.
So me and the family were pulling out of the driveway tonight and electrical smoke starts blowing out the vents. My wife had just plugged a cheap USB charger into the auxiliary outlet above the cup holders for only 30 seconds. I immediately pulled back into the driveway, yanked the charger out, and found it had melted a hole in the side of it. No smoke had come from the charger or the outlet. The outlet looked fine and wasn't hot to the touch. I pulled the dash off real fast and started grabbing wires, feeling for anything that was hot or melting. I couldn't find anything.
I pulled the cover off under the steering wheel and couldn't find anything. I never turned the truck off while I was looking. After a few minutes, I noticed that the cover over the fuse panel was warm. Pulled the cover off and felt every fuse end and they were all cool to the touch. The relays in the middle were all pretty warm(almost hot to where I couldn't touch them). I was still faintly smelling the burnt smell and I couldn't tell if it was just stuck in my nose. I disconnected the batteries and we had to switch cars(heading to a bbq).
So I just got home and I'm going to start looking for any obvious signs first. What could be going on at the panel? So far, everything is still working. I haven't found any blown fuses.
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I replaced the blower motor and the resistor. I just replaced the resistor again only after only a couple weeks. I noticed that two resistor plug wires (orange and black) were burnt. what can be done to fit this problem.
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I'm looking for information and possible photo location for the blower motor resistor. My truck has climate control. I've looked under the dash on the passenger side and behind the glove box door and I've been unable to spot the location. Do I have to remove the plastic panel behind the glove box?
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2003 Limited explorer 237k with auto climate controls. 95 degrees out and a/c on when fan speed began going up and down a few times and then completely off. Won't work on heating as well. Rear fan works fine so I changed the resistor but still nothing. The control lights up when changed as usual but no fan. What to change next?
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I was changing standard halogen headlight bulbs last night and as I was getting the drivers side bulb out the metal part came off with the bulb and I noticed the black plastic part of the socket was partially melted. Sketchy. Far as I know these bulbs have never been changed I bought the car w 3500 miles back in 06. Is there anything I should do besides replacing the melted socket? A part # would be awesome too...
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Over the past year or so I have noticed that when I press the clutch on my 1985 CJ-7 258 that the headlights would get brighter. This happens when driving or just sitting at an idle. This happens only after you press the clutch enough to take up the usual 1/2-1 inch of play in the clutch pedal. When you release the pedal, the lights dim slightly. Another thing that may be related---over the past few months, it has been a bit sluggish to start until, finally, it wouldn't start at all. I looked at the battery and the cable connector on the negative battery pole is partially melted and ran down onto the top of the battery. What the problem might be? I'd hate to get a new battery and just have the same thing happen again.
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I don't know if its a coincidence but it rained hard all weekend and went to work this morning to find out the blower motor only on 4(high). I checked the plug going into blower motor and it looks dry and clean. is there a common occurrence with this? What to look for?
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On the back of my truck I have two plugs to operate trailer lights/brakes etc but I only use one. The one I'm not using (pictured) I'd like to adapt for aux power in the trailer to operate some IP cameras. I need to know about the pin outs of this connector and what gauge wire to use between the trailer and truck. I plan on running the 12V and ground conductors from this plug through an adapter into the trailer.
In the trailer I'll have a 1000W inverter --> UPS --> TL-WR810N Router --> TL-SG1008P POE switch --> and 4 small ip cams.
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I have a F350 that has intermittent power loss.
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My 7.3 power steering is acting up. Feels like I am up against a rock. At slow speeds like parking lot maneuvering I struggle to turn wheel. Then all of a sudden I'll get power steering back and wheel will rapidly turn. Freaky.
Brake pressure is fine. They shutter pretty bad even with the new rotors I just put on but they have good pressure. But the steering is intermittent or no power steer.
I saw online to run engine at 2000 rpm and try steering but no change. Still no power steer. There is fluid in reservoir. There is fluid seeping up steering column from steering box. No clue if this is related or unrelated.
How to troubleshoot further. I hate throwing parts at problems before truly diagnosing. Also have pretty aggressive lurching during turns in four wheel drive. It's present on dirt road but worse on pavement. Don't know if this is related or not.
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My blower works half of the time...from what I have researched it is more than likely the resistor. The thing is I can't find it..all the videos and pictures looks like they are the **** control control. Where this is located for the dual climate control?
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I have a 2000 Excursion. This weekend, I noticed some intermittent failure of the power steering where it seemed like the pump was not engaging and then would all of the sudden. Deciding to try to head off a failure, I got a reman unit from Oreilly and installed it this morning. It was fine when I tested, had good brakes and went locked to lock quietly without fuss. Let the house and within a mile, I lost steering and brake assist. I stopped and turned around, but what I am noticing is that at idle, I have no power steering, but when the RPM's are up, I do.
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Intermittent loss of power (could be describe momentarily stuttering) with momentary illumination of the check engine soon light. Its only happened a couple of times. Maybe about a year ago (I changed the fuel filter after it occurred). It occurred again about a month ago and then again yesterday. About a month ago I had a friend with a scanner look at the codes and he said there was only one and it was for low fuel pressure. Its been maybe 5k since I changed the fuel filter.
The truck is driven intermittently, maybe 5k or 6k a year, and usually parked with a full tank of fuel. What areas I should look at to correct this? I got my stock 2001 F350 4x4 manual transmission in 2004 with about 157k miles. Today I've got about 228k miles.
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When I turn on my fan for the AC or vent or heat, it works just fine on the first and second settings. When I move the fan speed to the third and last speed, I hear this sound that sounds like the blower fan is hitting something. I turn the speed back to the lower two settings and noise goes away. Sometimes I turn it back to the higher settings and the noise actually will go away but most of the time the noise is there.
I pulled the blower motor out yesterday and set it to where I can turn it on while out of the compartment and I didn't really notice a noise. I wonder if the noise is there but I am just not hearing it since it is not enclosed in the compartment? I also noticed there is a crack in the fan where it mounts to the shaft starting at the shaft and extending out one direction and also 180 degrees the other direction. Thoughts on if the motor is bad or just the fan? Or even something else that I may not be seeing?
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I tried a steel with rubber insert washer, but it still leaks. I might have overtightened or something. It seemed good for a while. Who has a solution for this leak?
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I have an Excursion with 220k miles. I've owned the truck for 6+ years and had very few problems. I change my own oil and fuel filters, but beyond that I know next to nothing about the diesel motor. I do run a DP Tuner with the standard 80 hp program. And a 4" exhaust. Everything else is stock. I do keep it plugged it for the oil heater and the battery tender just about all the time now.
This latest issue started yesterday morning when my wife jumped in a cool truck to take the kids to the dentist (not warmed up but still 55 degrees ambient). A few miles down the road (35 mph max) the motor began stumbling and rocking and black smoke coming from the exhaust with reduced power. She pulled off and kept it running (very rough and rocking) and put it in park for a minute. When she put back in drive, it shifted heavily but the power was normal so she went on her way without any problems. The only report I got sounded like the motor was just cold and rough, so I thought nothing more of it.
Yesterday evening we drove it about 70 miles on the highway (72 mph max) with no issue at all, but when we continued on surface streets toward our destination (50 mph max) it did the same thing, but would not settle back down. I kid you not that it went through gallons of fuel the last 12 miles or so, just dumping black smoke out the exhaust. It felt to me like we were running 1/2 the motor, like the plugs weren't lit. Very rough and rocking and very little power (comparatively, at least). I had to switch to manually shifting the trans to get going and the shifts were much rougher than usual. Idle was low and rough but it never stalled. Behind me there was a huge smoke screen this entire time.
We made it to our destination and parked it. Did our thing and after 5 hours went out with finger crossed. Started right up and ran perfectly the entire 91 miles home. No motor or trans issues at all. Currently running 10/40 synthetic oil that I just changed about 2000 miles ago. Oil level is perfect. 3/4 tank of fuel with standard level of Diesel Kleen added. Fuel filter is less than 10k miles old. Temps yesterday were 65-70 on the drive down and 50-55 on the way back.
I jiggled all sorts of connectors this morning and didn't find anything loose.
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I broke my radiator drain plug got a replacement but how does the stock one come out? Is there a clip or something?
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I'm getting ready to change the glow plugs in my dad's e99, 196k on the clock. When I pulled the air intake tubes I found some oil in the turbo:
The inlet tube also had a bunch of gunk in it too:
Does this look like it is caused by the PCVor is it a bigger issue?
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I will be changing all the glow plugs in a few days. Should I re-torque the head bolts or anything while I am in there? Don't want to button it back up and then wish I had done something while in there.
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