Jeep - Wrangler :: Cable Connector On Negative Battery Pole Is Partially Melted
Apr 5, 2013
Over the past year or so I have noticed that when I press the clutch on my 1985 CJ-7 258 that the headlights would get brighter. This happens when driving or just sitting at an idle. This happens only after you press the clutch enough to take up the usual 1/2-1 inch of play in the clutch pedal. When you release the pedal, the lights dim slightly. Another thing that may be related---over the past few months, it has been a bit sluggish to start until, finally, it wouldn't start at all. I looked at the battery and the cable connector on the negative battery pole is partially melted and ran down onto the top of the battery. What the problem might be? I'd hate to get a new battery and just have the same thing happen again.
View 15 Replies
Advertisement
While reinstalling my battery after working on my 94 sentra my negative battery cable melted my negative terminal.
I installed the positive first then went to do the negative and huge spark/smoke and I see my terminal melted on the one side.
What might be causing this?
View 19 Replies
We have a 2009 BMW X5 with an AGM battery that leaked and damaged the negative cable. We don't know what caused this, and we're concerned it might be due to a problem with the battery sensor, voltage regulator, alternator, or electronic system/software. The dealer says there's no way to tell, and that "batteries just leak." However, we pointed out that BMW's online marketing info states that "The acid cannot leak and damage the battery housing." Based on this express warranty, the BMW dealer refunded us the cost of the new battery, cable, and labor. However, since we've read that battery failure is rarely due to the battery itself, but rather a symptom of some other problem, we're concerned.
View 2 Replies
I'm working on a 95 Explorer, and I need to know where the end of the negative battery cable should be bolted to. Right now, it's hooked to a bolt on the back of the starter. That just doesn't sound right......
View 3 Replies
I replaced the 12v battery this morning with an Optima, as some here suggest. No problem, but the strap on the Optima is touching the negative connector wire. I tried squishing the battery strap under the metal hold-down bar but that doesn't work.
View 10 Replies
Dealer is telling me I need a fuel pressure sensor. I was hoping it would be the PEM which is still under the extended warranty. Is the sensor and the PEM one and the same? By the way, 99% of the time the car runs normally. Assuming the sensor and the PEM are different, could the sensor flat out totally fail at any time?
Dealer is suggesting to replace the negative battery cable!! I remember replacing old cables in my old cars, admittedly many decades ago for a few bucks. Even considering that it is a different world now, can a cable cost that much. Dealer is asking Volvo to consider the sensor as warranty or to participate because I had complained about hesitation more than once starting about five years ago, but they found nothing at that time. My complaint is still in their computer system.
2005 Volvo s40 t5
View 3 Replies
My car has been having an issue with battery draw. when I don't drive it for 2-3 days the battery is drained enough for me to need my jump pack to start it. I have done a wire tuck on the motor and also have air ride. I hooked a wire up between the battery and the negative cable with a light connected and it lights up with the car off. What I have done so far is to pull each fuse in the door fuse panel individually and the light stayed on the entire time. Next I pulled the power feed to my air ride system out and the light flashes and I can hear what sounds like a relay clicking. If the issue were the air ride I would think disconnecting it would make the light go out.
I need to pull the fuse panel that was on top of the battery and pull those fuses out too. Should I try pulling the relays as well?
View 2 Replies
I was changing standard halogen headlight bulbs last night and as I was getting the drivers side bulb out the metal part came off with the bulb and I noticed the black plastic part of the socket was partially melted. Sketchy. Far as I know these bulbs have never been changed I bought the car w 3500 miles back in 06. Is there anything I should do besides replacing the melted socket? A part # would be awesome too...
View 2 Replies
I tried starting my 2005 Jeep Wrangler yesterday and there wasn't enough charge to get it started. I got a few slow revolutions and that was it. I gave it a jump and it started fine. Drove it for an hour or so and then went to restart it 3 hours after I shut it off and it was dead again. Another jump and I drove it for an hour (home). I was able to start it a few hours after that on its own, though it struggled to a bit.
Tried again this morning and it was dead from sitting overnight. A few other bits of info:
With the key in the ignition, the charge indicator is hovering just above 9V (it is a 12V battery) before I try to start it. When engine is running after start, it jumps to around 12V.
I am pretty sure I didn't leave the lights on or door open overnight. I haven't noticed the engine struggling to start leading up to the dead battery.
After I jumped it again this morning, it seems to be idling very low. In fact, the engine shutoff when I let it idle in neutral with my foot off the gas for a few seconds.
When I got in the Jeep this morning before trying to start it, it had enough charge for the radio and dashboard. When I turn on the lights/highbeams it struggled and the high beam indicator on the dashboard (blue light) was flashing. Battery is not too old. I don't have the receipt with me, but I think I bought a new one 3-4 years ago. The +/- connections are clean with no corrosion. I didn't look too closely, but I didn't notice any obvious connection issues from the battery leading into other components.
I'll probably go buy another battery, but wanted to check with the experts out there to see if there is anything else I should be checking. If I do get another battery
View 7 Replies
2 days after replacing a weak battery during a cold snap the engine light came on. 2 days prior to replacement the gas cap warning and engine light came on, but immediately after the installation both warnings went off. Only the engine light came back on 2 days later. I have driven the Jeep 3 times since for about 20 miles total. Total mileage, 18,200. What the cause may be and how to proceed?
View 2 Replies
Coming home from the shore and turned of the air but not blower. No speeds at all. Fiddled with it until I got to a rest stop. KOEO, tapping the blower did nothing and swapping relays did nothing. 40 amp fuse and inside #22 ok. Had some time last week and discovered that power to blower was intermittent. Pulled the resistor pack plug and it was partially melted and upon removal of resistor pack I could see it was toast. Replaced that and pigtail and still got intermittent blower and intermittent voltage at blower connector.
Days go by with only a chance of it working but noticed it turned on more when I started the truck with the blower motor switch turned on. Maybe bad contacts somewhere or maybe loose connector in harness I thought. I had been meaning to replace some burned out cluster bulbs with new LED's, so I bought a motor switch and did both items. Left the front dash part off because nothing changed as far as the blower was concerned.
I downloaded the schematic to end the frustration and see the power going into Mode Selector switch, black/yellow. My test probe gets nothing through insulation with KOEO. Pulling the connector and probing the contact of the blk wire and I get blower all speeds but no light glowing from test probe as if I just grounding it. I have to add that 1/2 the time I got not blower and 1/2 the time I did, so It was intermittent there as well. Doing this again several times while restarting the key to run and still the same until after about 8 times, I finally get a light on the probe, probing the wire while its connected and I get it now with it disconnected and all seems ok. I have blower each time for the last dozen restarts and I cant make any sense of it.
I just have a feeling this good heat isn't going to last. Should I replace the Mode Selector Switch? It seems the relay coil wasn't energizing but now it is. Last week I shot the relay seat with contact cleaner and replaced it with new napa one out of frustration.
View 3 Replies
About a month ago I replaced both of the main headlights in my Gen 3. I've noticed since that the light from both seemed a little skewed and thought maybe I didn't lock them back in fully. i finally checked them today and was able to get the left side light straightened out, but when I went to check the right hand (passenger) side one (which isn't working again), i realized that it must have come out.
Essentially the light bulb is shattered/exploded and it melted part of the cable next to it, and is now stuck to that cable. Besides being partially melted, the cable also has some exposed wires. i don't know what those wires do, but I can't imagine it's a good thing to leave it exposed next to a live circuit from the headlight.
See the attached picture. What that cable is that melted and if it's possible to replace it myself, or do I need to take it in?
View 9 Replies
So, instead of pushing the throttle cable back and then off, I tried to pop it off and broke the little tab. I've been trying to look for a replacement, but all I'm coming up with is an entire throttle body. Not too bad, but would still like to fix it for much cheaper. It's a 2002 F150 with a 5.4L.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2006 4 cylinder JEEP Wrangler. Right around 50 mph the whole car starts to shake pretty violently. I have to slow down back to 40 to get it back to normal. I can seem to get past this most of the time by waiting to shift into fifth gear until after 50 mph but not always!
View 1 Replies
Jeep Wrangler Owners excessive engine oil consumption [URL] .... Caused engine failure with my Jeep. Chrysler aware of problem. Local dealership stating Chrysler may not honor 100,000 mile warranty due to 1missed oil change.
View 5 Replies
Vehicle will not exceed 20mph. Vacuum leak can be heard coming from around the intake area on the driver side. Cannot detect where it is coming from. All vacuum hoses seem to be connected.
View 3 Replies
I have a 1995 Jeep Wrangler Rio Grande named El Burro.I have replaced the shocks and am awaiting an alignment next week.The Jeep doesn't shake or jump all over unless I hit a bump and then it jumps all over the place.
View 15 Replies
I own a 98 jeep wrangler. Love the little jeep. But....big BUT...at random it chooses not to start, not sluggish start, dead absolutely no noise. I have spent well over 1500. dollars on new starters, batteries, ignitions, ignition cylinders you name it I have replaced it. This last time it started every time for well over a month, then one evening it just didn't so I let it set for a couple of hours as usual and then it started and we came home. I love my mechanic he is patient and doesn't make fun of me when I ask dumb questions...but this he can't figure out.
View 2 Replies
I have a 01 Jeep and the AC is not blowing cold air. When I went to get my oil changed they did a check over and said that it is in working order just lacks any freon to get it cold. So I went to get a bottle to do it myself. Doing what it said to do on the bottle I got nothing. The meter says that there is pressure in the system, but no cold air coming out. I noticed that it would engage and then stop after a second, but still will not fully engage or blow cold air.
View 5 Replies
We have a 97 Jeep Wrangler that I have serviced regularly since I purchased new. It only has 97,000 miles since my wife and children drove it locally. During winter, the Jeep drives fine. As the weather warms up and especially when using the air conditioning system, the engine heats up within 10 to 15 minutes of driving. Once, when my daughter was driving in warm Spring weather, the Jeep engine seized up on a highway. We had it towed and the dealership flushed the coolant and it drove OK for a few days. We have noticed that the coolant is burning up in Spring and Summer needing replenishment frequently. We also had the thermostat, water pump, belts, and hoses replaced. The overheating problem (needle moves to red zone) still persists in Spring and Summer. If we switch off the A/C, the vehicle drives OK for about a 1/2 hour but Atlanta summer can be brutal without A/C.
Except for this issue, the vehicle is well maintained and in fact every time I get the oil changed, the mechanics ask if I would sell the vehicle as it is in such great shape.
View 6 Replies
when the jeep warms up the transmission wont shift out of second gear.it is an automatic.had solenoid packs replaced and no mechanic has an idea.external cooler has been mentioned along with replacing pcm.
View 2 Replies
