After my electric water pump was replaced under the recall my mileage went from 45 mpg to about 30 mpg. Part of this might be due to new tires and cold snowy weather (CT !) but I have never seen such a drastic drop in performance (2005 Prius).
View 12 RepliesI have a 2008 prius. Usually it gets me around 52-55mpg, I've had it since January. Since a couple of days ago its not giving me anything above 49. I know thats a normal number, but considering the fact that its usually quite a bit higher I'm wondering what the cause of the drop is. Also around the same time, when I pull out of my driveway I notice what appears to be a bit of water leakage. Its under the vehicle in the front center, and it only happens when I start the car for the day and pull out of my driveway (its on an incline).
View 4 Replies2006 gen II base w/ about 90k miles. Jump in, big scare triangle with multiple other dash lights. POA80 and PO319 codes. Traction battery fail. Fortunately, I was just under the warranty limit (8yrs).
View 19 RepliesI'm driving a 2007 Prius [Gen II?] with 92k miles on her. I was told my belt has cracks and I should change it, and I've read about converting it to an electric pump. I've read the Prius C uses the same engine, and it has an electric pump. I THOUGHT I read about people putting them in the older models...
What do I need to know? Is there a controller board I need? How does it work? [Life compared to the belt driven model]Side effects? [Accel? Fuel economy? Anything else?]
After a long day at work, I stepped out of my '06 Prius and was greeted by an obviously struggling CHRS pump. It sounded like it was having a hard time maintaining speed, and to my ears was screaming; better replace soon...
View 2 RepliesSo, I had a catback Magnaflow exhaust put on my Tiguan a while back and ever since then my mileage has gone from a steady 28 highway to 15!!! its a crazy loss in fuel, and I brought it to the shop and they said there is nothing they can find....
My first thoughts are that the turbo is under boosting because of the amount of carbon build up on the exhaust tips....
Noticed a loss in fuel economy after a CAI install??
View 10 Replies08 Prius now at 120k. This is usually when I change the ICE water pump. I've been reading about when to change the pump, and it looks like opinions are all over the place. Generally though, consensus seems to be "change it when you see pink crystals on the pully." Is this correct?
120k is usually when I expect to drop a couple of thousand on preventative maintenance. Is this not true on the Prius? I knew running costs were low, but THIS LOW?
My 2001 L.L.Bean Edition H6-3.0 is losing power & MPG on the fwy. Sometimes it will feel like something is holding it back or dragging. I've checked the brake calipers and they're not sticking, changed the air filter, oil & filter, transmission fluid, and still cannot find the problem. I've overfilled the gas tank and read this can damage the charcoal canister. Will a saturated charcoal canister cause a drop in power and MPG? What should I check out next?
View 10 RepliesMy ICE failed to start on a wooded forest road -- after the car had sat under a fir tree for a day or three it ended up starting and all the warning lights went away. I ended up taking it to the dealer though and while they replaced a leaking water pump, never found any cause for the ICE failure.
View 2 RepliesI have a 97' hyundai tiburon, I have multiple misfires that are p301 302 304 and rich airflow. I have changed the coil pack, spark plugs and wires, and the MAF sensor. Basically my car doesn't accelerate fast or go over 40(max), it putters when i try to accelerate.
View 1 RepliesHad the Check Hybrid System and master warning light come on today. Took it to the dealer, who, after a couple hours, told me that my "Hybrid Water Pump" needed to be replaced.
View 19 RepliesI have worked on several minor to moderate engine issues over the years with various brand cars so I was thinking about replacing my leaking main water pump (not the Hybrid pump).
View 9 RepliesI have a 2008 Prius T6 that I took in for routine oil change at Big-O tires. They called and said water pump was leaking badly.
Pump replaced 2 hours later, but they cannot "burp" car because it won't start. The hybrid battery is apparently too low (1 purple bar) and after repeated attempts it's dead (one vertical bar on display). I've never seen this happen before... I've seen the car battery die (after leaving lights on) but the hybrid battery has never gone low.
Big-O calls and says,
(1) We've replaced pump before and never seen this happen
(2) We called Toyota and there is only one high-voltage charger in the region... we don't know where
(3) Toyota said nothing is wrong with the car, it just needs a charge
(4) Toyota said we did nothing wrong
My daughter has a 2004 Toyota Corolla and the "service engine" light came on. The diagnosis was that the water pump needed to be replaced.
View 1 RepliesEvery time I turn the car on, the "from start" fuel economy reading resets to 15l/100k. After driving for a while it goes down to 4l/100k but then resets back to 15 once the car is turned off. Is there any way to get it to stay at what it finished at?
View 11 RepliesWhile most of the emphasis I've seen on improving fuel economy seems to focus on warming the car up quickly in cool/cold weather, I seem to be experiencing significant mpg drops at the other end of the spectrum.
View 8 RepliesI am wondering about how fast to accelerate for maximizing fuel economy. I understand with the P&G approach that you don't want to get up to speed too slowly. The question is whether it really is more efficient to go ahead and get up to speed or stay within the ECO guidelines? In particular, I find that getting up to highway speed especially that it can take quite a while to get up to 70 mph without having it going into the power range. It seems like it is better to get up to speed and then back off to go to the high efficiency mode.
View 16 Repliesi have had this problem before where the relay for the electric fuel pump would quit intermittently, and had it fixed. but, i suspect this is acting up again. so, i was gonna do it myself. there are 2 relays strapped to the radiator overflow can. is one of them the relay i am seeking?
What started all this, motor was running really rough at idle, but ran ok once moving. So, I replaced the spark plugs, and cleaned the contact areas in/on the cap and bug. motor started right up, and actually sounded good... for about 10 or so seconds, then it died, like the gas was shut off. I do have spark.
How to check/test the fuel pump relay and could pass this info on to me would be good. i do have test light, and DMM.
I was wondering if it is possible, due to budget, to perform the electric fuel pump conversion in steps. By that I mean could I remove the mechanical pump and install the electric pump on the frame, but retain the stock filter housing and regulator? I would use high pressure hose and run from the stock pump supply line on top of the engine to the fuel bowl inlet and then use high pressure to run to a three way fitting, and a bit more hose to join the fitting to the stock lines running to the head. later as budget allow I will replace the filter assembly and regulator and then the lines to the heads.
View 2 RepliesI have a fuel pump I want to install I want to hook this thing up on a switch inside the cabin to be used as kind of a security device, but I am hoping I can wire it into the ignition as well.... I want the pump to activate when the ignition is turned on but only if the (hidden from view) switch is in the "on" position. Not sure if all this is possible.
I have heard I ought to utilize a relay to avoid voltage loss at the pump. I have never hooked up a relay to anything before although I have heard of them being used. This system is being installed on a 1967 F250.