Prius (2004-09) :: 2008 T6 Dies During Water Pump Replacement
Aug 1, 2013
I have a 2008 Prius T6 that I took in for routine oil change at Big-O tires. They called and said water pump was leaking badly.
Pump replaced 2 hours later, but they cannot "burp" car because it won't start. The hybrid battery is apparently too low (1 purple bar) and after repeated attempts it's dead (one vertical bar on display). I've never seen this happen before... I've seen the car battery die (after leaving lights on) but the hybrid battery has never gone low.
Big-O calls and says,
(1) We've replaced pump before and never seen this happen
(2) We called Toyota and there is only one high-voltage charger in the region... we don't know where
(3) Toyota said nothing is wrong with the car, it just needs a charge
(4) Toyota said we did nothing wrong
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I have worked on several minor to moderate engine issues over the years with various brand cars so I was thinking about replacing my leaking main water pump (not the Hybrid pump).
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I bought my 2008 JDM Prius a couple of weeks ago, at 84,500km. After a week, it started losing engine coolant. (Great start! Hope it's not a sign of things to come...) Fortunately, covered by a 3 month Dealer Warranty - hopefully. Yet to make the claim.
Anyway, went to the local Toyota Dealer to get some of the proper Toyota SSL (Super Long Life) Coolant to top it up. Got chatting with the Service Agent about Prius Service and what HSD Adjustments are possible (not many) and showed him my symptoms.
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08 Prius now at 120k. This is usually when I change the ICE water pump. I've been reading about when to change the pump, and it looks like opinions are all over the place. Generally though, consensus seems to be "change it when you see pink crystals on the pully." Is this correct?
120k is usually when I expect to drop a couple of thousand on preventative maintenance. Is this not true on the Prius? I knew running costs were low, but THIS LOW?
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I have a 2.0l Jetta that has been giving me problems for about a year now.
First, the car started dying out on me after long trips at en excessive rate where it would shut off and have trouble starting multiple times consistently. So I got the fuel lines cleaned, a new fuel filter, the fuel pump checked, and did a basic tune up by changing the sparks and oil.
Still the same problem. after some troubleshooting i gave up and decided to take it to the stealer dealer. after a $130 diagnostic fee and a $300 repair fee they told me that they had fixed it by replacing a speed sensor in the transmission. the car was noticeably running better and did not stall during the short driving i did. I am a student so not much driving was done initially. A couple of months later i took a ~150 mile trip and upon stopping at a red light and trying to go once the light turned green the car stalled.
I took it back to the dealer that told me they would check if the speed sensor was faulty. it was not and they could not refund me my money. i paid for another diagnostic for another $130 and this time they said it was a bad coil pack, a $400 repair fee that i was not going to pay. i went out and got myself a coil pack and installed it myself. still the same problem.
I met a guy that worked for the dealer and had the same tech as the dealers so i took the car to him. he had it for 2 days and drove it for over 80 miles to test run it. he could no replicate the problem and just charged me 80 dollars just for his time.
I decided to take matters into my own hands and I read on these forums a couple of common solutions to the problem such as changing cam,crank,speed sensors etc etc and i started out with the crank..then speed...etc etc.
2 days ago my water pump had been leaking and i believe the antifreeze caused the timing belt to slip about 3 teeth in the middle of driving. luckily no bent valves or any damage to the engine but i did have the push the car about half a mile. After a 5 hour job i replaced the pump and the timing belt along with the cam sensor. I drove it around 70 miles and everything seemed fine. just yesterday i drove around 120 miles and the car had a small stall about 50 miles in when i was at a red light. The rest of the trip it ran fine. As i got to my apartments I decided to see if i could replicate the stall since the engine was hot. I stopped and waited around 10 seconds and then stepped on the gas, the car did almost stall but it stayed on since i let go of the gas. I tried it again and it would no longer do it.
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My ICE failed to start on a wooded forest road -- after the car had sat under a fir tree for a day or three it ended up starting and all the warning lights went away. I ended up taking it to the dealer though and while they replaced a leaking water pump, never found any cause for the ICE failure.
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Had the Check Hybrid System and master warning light come on today. Took it to the dealer, who, after a couple hours, told me that my "Hybrid Water Pump" needed to be replaced.
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After my electric water pump was replaced under the recall my mileage went from 45 mpg to about 30 mpg. Part of this might be due to new tires and cold snowy weather (CT !) but I have never seen such a drastic drop in performance (2005 Prius).
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My daughter has a 2004 Toyota Corolla and the "service engine" light came on. The diagnosis was that the water pump needed to be replaced.
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So the fuel pump module on my truck is falling apart, and I figured I might as well replace it....
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I got a 08 F150 with a V6. It's making a very loud and annoying noise that sounds a lot like a bad steering pump, but it's coming from the water pump. I'll be cruising at about 2000 rpm and the noise will start all of a sudden. I step on the clutch and let the rpm drop to idle, and the noise tapers off as the rpm drops and then stops completely. I bring the rpm back up, and there's no noise. There is absolutely no play in the water pump bearing, no leakage from the weep hole, no overheating.
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I learned today there are at least two water pumps in my 2006 Prius, and that one of them is leaking. I had the recall done for the electric motor water pump in November. Now, during my scheduled maintenance, they tell me my second water pump has been leaking (slowly). My car has 132,000 miles.
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I just got back from the dealer and was told my water pump was leaking. I was told it was a small leak and that it could only be seen by lifting the car. I opened the hood and noticed some pink crusty looking thing on what i believed to be the water pump. I took some pictures of the water pump, the radiator and overflow level. If you look closely you can see some of the pink crusty stuff around the pump. I poked it with a pencil and it broke apart pretty easy.
First of all if that pink crusty stuff is anything i should worry about? Also if the levels of the fluid in the radiator/overflow tank are good? Is there another sure way i can tell that i even have a water pump leak? I searched around the forum and it looks like the hardest part about replacing the water pump is getting the air out of the system and that the dealer quote is a rip-off.
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The water pump on my 04 with 132k miles is rattling / wobbling (but surprisingly, not leaking). So I am going to replace the water pump, serpentine belt, and thermostat. The idler pulley seemed fine so I am wondering if I should replace it. What is the failure mode on the idler pulley and how will I know it is going bad without having to check it? Or should I just go ahead and replace it?
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My 2006 Prius with 120k miles has coolant seeping around the water pump. I called around to get quotes on replacement cost, but one place said the thermostat should be replaced at the same time, while the other said it shouldn't. (BTW, I will have the belt replaced at the same time).
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I am trying to replace a water pump on a 2006 Hyundai Sonata, 3.3L, V6. But I hit a snag. I have removed the drivebelt but I can't get the water pump pulley off due to clearance. The water pump pulley is hitting the engine mounting bracket. All the manuals said I could remove the water pump pulley and the water pump and made no mention of removing the engine mounting brackets. I was wondering if there was a way to remove the water pump pulley, and the water pump, without dropping the engine and removing the engine mounts? If I do have to remove the engine mounts, do I need to remove the mounting brackets on both sides?
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Looks like my mystery growling noise at idle is the WP going bad. Not leaking but making a racket at idle.
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I've got a grinding noise coming from near my water pump. replaced the serpentine belt w no luck. it's got 212,000 miles on it so I'm guessing the water pump is going bad.
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My wife calls me yesterday and said she could hear a rattling noise from the engine area, but no other issues presented themselves. Later, I checked the engine compartment for the noise with the engine on and found that the noise was coming from the area of the engine water pump/idler pulley but i couldn't really narrow it much closer. The noise honestly sounds like bearings about to go out. I did see that behind the water pump pulley there was a small buildup of corrosion on the water pump, but no apparent leaks or wetness. The car has the original water pump and idler pulley with 140k. I plan on replacing the water pump, idler pulley and thermostat in the morning. Or is this overkill? I don't want to lose the engine nor do I want my wife to get stranded anywhere.
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Toyota dealer said computer indicated the water pump and belt needed replacing. We decided to do the replacement ourself. Now the light comes on which indicates car is running hot. We did replace the coolant. The 2005 Toyota Prius never ran hot before the replacement, What did we do wrong?
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I just joined this great forum and having a tough time finding a solution for Water Pump and Timing Cover Leaks.
2007 Prius Pkg 6
111k miles
Bought the car used from a dealer (non toyota) and doubt that the 90k service was done
Issues found by dealer (when I took it in for the steering shaft recall):
-Replace water pump (Found coolant leak) (for the gas engine)
-Reseal timing cover (Found engine oil seep)
2 weeks ago I filled my coolant as I saw it was a tiny bit low, but since then I have not seen the coolant levels drop. The Dealer is quoting me an absurd amount of money and I for one cannot afford that.
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