Cherokee :: 2004 4.7 Liter Runs Out Of Power At 5000 RPM - No Top End
Jan 14, 2013
2004 4.7 liter runs out of power at 5000 rpm, stays in gear cause the shift point at wot is more like 6000. No codes, runs fine otherwise.
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Jan 14, 2013
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Pontiac - Bonneville :: 1990 LE 3.8 Liter V6 Runs Rough After Engine Warms Up / Looses Power If Give More Gas
Car has 252k miles runs ruff after engine warms up, looses power, if I give more gas, car will sputter, but rev up to 5k engine smoothes out. This situation constantly comes and goes.
View 3 RepliesJeep - Cherokee :: 1999 - Runs Bad Until Stop Then Fine
My 1999 Jeep Cherokee, 4L inline 6, has a very weird problem. Usually, after starting, it runs well for around 10 seconds, during which time I back up and get ready to leave. Then when I switch to drive, it starts to run poorly, having no acceleration in speed or and very little in engine rpm, until I stop using the brakes. Exactly when the suspension relaxes, the idle returns to normal and it runs perfectly after that.
Sometimes the rough running starts while I'm backing up too. So I don't think it related to the transmission. But all I have to do is completely stop, and then it runs great from then on.
This doesn't happen every time, but probably 60-80% of the time. It's been happening for about 2 months now.
Electrical-wiring - Gasoline :: 1998 Jeep Cherokee Runs Rough / Gas Smell From Exhaust When Idling
1998 Jeep Cherokee sport ... My mechanic tells me that my #1 fuel injector is always spraying and that that is why the jeep runs rough. This is after he already told me that my injectors were clogged and needed to be replaced (which he did). When the car is idling for a while, the exhaust really begins to smell like gas, so this seems to make some sense to me, unlike his previous diagnosis. But now he is telling me that I need to replace the computer to fix this problem.
View 8 RepliesPrius (2004-09) :: High Mpg (km Per Liter) At Idle Speed
I am a new buyer' bought my prius 2008 about a week ago. the is something i cant understand, when a the engine runs at idle speed, the fuel consumption monitor shows 99.9 km/liter ! ! ! and it's also calculated at the average... is it something i should worry about ?
View 6 RepliesFord 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2003 Superduty Six Liter
So looking for some thoughts on my truck.I'm looking at a Ford F350 up grade.What the problem is my 03 250 extra cab has 107,000 on it and all regular maintenance.If I trade it in I'm going to need a 5 gal pail of Vaseline to make a deal.The trade will reduce the sales tax on the new truck. I live in a rural area so selling out right could take a bit.It's paid for.
So your thoughts are welcome.
Thanks Mike
Ford F-150 (2004-2008) :: 5.4 Liter Truck - Spark Plugs Coming Loose
I have with my F150 5.4 liter truck. I had the spark plugs replaced about 1 year ago. since then I have had 2 plugs back out and come loose. I would smell a faint gas smell first that would tell me know that it was happening. the first plug was if memory is correct either number 8 0r 7 on bank 2. this time its number 2 on bank 1.
I hope that my mechanic just did not torque the plugs correctly and all I have to do is tighten them. If that's not it. Could the spark plug holes be stripped and have to be re-threaded? And if so how us that done?
Monte Carlo :: 2006 3.5 Liter - Engine Power Is Reduced / Starting Disabled Service Throttle
A month or so ago my engine light came on with the message "engine power is reduced". well i had it checked out, the code from the engine light suggested a bad throttle body. I then replaced the throttle body myself. (unplugged the throttle body sensor, unscrewed the four bolt holding it on, replaced with new throttle body, and reattached cord to new sensor that was attached to the new throttle body) i then re-learned the idle speed through chevys process on their website. The engine light disappeared and everything was a okay for about a week and a half. then it started doing the same thing again. (engine light came on message appeared, obvious reduction in power from the throttle) It is continuing to get worse and sometimes it will shut off my engine display the message "starting disabled service throttle".
I have been shutting the car off ( if it wasn't already off) and wiggling the wires leading to the sensor attached to the throttle body. i'd then close the hood and start the car and it would act normal (engine light still on) with no reduction in power until the next time (which was usually about 30 driving min later give or take) recently a new symptom popped up when i am going uphill or giving it the beans it'll display the usual engine pwer reduced message and sometimes shut off the car. not only that but if it gives me the message and shuts off if i dont wiggle the wires or something of that nature when i start it the whole car shutters while the rpms go up and down. so did i just get bad luck and buy a faulty throttle body ( i bought i t brand new from o'riellys or however you spell that) .
Ford 6.7L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2013 - Maintenance Intervals 7500 Or 5000?
I'll be running my 2013 f-350 diesel with a 6,500 lb load on it at interstate speeds, steep, western mountain back roads, lots of dirt roads and some tortuous 4x4 in low range 1st gear. Been doing the same thing with a 1988 f-250 for the past 25 years and it was also pulling a four horse trailer. No horses any more but Ford owners manual seems to indicate I should think in terms of 5,000 mi maintainance intervals and use 5w-40 oil. I bought a 7,500 mi maintenance plan. Always did my own before. I'm thinking about upgrading to a 5,000 mi plan and 100% synthetic 5w-40.
View 6 RepliesPrius (2004-09) :: Hybrid Battery Runs Flat Every Morning - No Electric Power To Accelerate
It's been like that for a a while now. Every morning the hybrid battery would run down to last bar. When I start the car it would be 3/4 full and it would keep draining even though I'm on flat road.
The overall mileage has not changed much but its annoying with the battery goes to last bar and there's no electric power to accelerate.
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2004 - Runs Bad After Diesel 911 Injector Cleaner
I filled up at the same fuel station I've filled up at for 6 months, never had a problem. I just bought a 6 liter and put some injector cleaner in on the last fill up. Ever since then, it's been running really rough and missing when cold, and even when it's warm if I really lay into it, it'll pop and sputter. The fuel in water lights been on since I bought it. I think I have a bad sensor, because it was running fine until I put that cleaner in. Since its been running rough I put in new fuel filters and drained the fuel water separator, which only had fuel in it. I don't really know what it could be, but I'm 99% sure it's an injector issue since it started only after I put fuel treatment in.
View 8 RepliesFord 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Instant Loss Of Power But Runs
I am going along and the power just goes away. Sometimes it is a 50% loss other times it is an 80% loss. I hooked up my scanner and found an IPR code. I replaced the IPR and connector, nothing changed.
As the scanner info shows the Duty Cycle and Pressure track about identically until something goes wonky. When I loose about 50% power the pressure will not get above about 1500 psi but the duty cycle will run up to 60%. Other times when I have a bout an 80% loss the pressure and duty cycle both track low, no more than 1200psi and about 20%.
Santa FE SM (2001-06) :: 2003 GLS 3.5 Liter - RPM Low / Will Not Idle
I just replaced the crankshaft angle sensor, camshaft position sensor, starter and both serpentine belts (power steering and alternator, a/c belt). She fired right up, but now it won't sustain idle, she dies unless you keep the rpm at 1000. It almost seems like a fuel issue, but it's just a guess at this point. What to check next? Computer is throwing no codes at all.
View 4 RepliesSanta FE SM (2001-06) :: Odd Vibration At 45 Mph - 3.5 Liter AWD Not Working
I recently purchased a used 04 3.5 liter SF. I don't think the AWD system is working. The car has a bit of an odd vibration at 45 mph but I thought this was due to the new all terrain tires on put on the car. There are no check engine lights on in the car and it otherwise drives straight and well.
It just snowed here for the first time in CT this season. I took the santa fe out and tried to start on some hills and it would just spin the front tires and slide backwards. The rear end would not kick in at all. It didnt matter if I had turned traction control on or off. When I look at the snow there are only two front tire marks that spun down into the snow. The rear tire left not skid marks.
There are no strange sounds coming from the rear differential. I know the Santa Fe 3.5 use the Borg and Werner magnetic clutch system and is usually front wheel drive. Is it possible that clutch system is worn out or is it an electrical issue with the front not sending the rear a signal to engage the rear diff?
Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: 2006 - Runs Smooth But Low Power
I had a no-start, replaced standpipes and dummy plugs. Passenger side dummy plug o-ring was shot, some of the others were pretty worn. Polished the spool valves and replaced injector seals. Confidently put it back together and fired it up. Idled sweet, bad low on power, especially at low rpm. FMP was bumping 45 so sent it to ED. It seemed a little better but not fixed. No visible smoke. Engine temp doesn't seem to make a big difference but it may be slightly better warm. Fuel consumption is hovering around 9mpg over the last 150mi. FPW stays around 800us warm/5.8ms cold. I think the low mpg is the excessive throttle needed to pull away from stops and climb hills.
I spent the day checking stuff and found the following.
The only codes are for a couple of glow plugs and a "key in ignition" error. No contribution codes. Monitored (with FORScan) the turbo (MAP, Baro, EBP, VGT), FICM, TPS, ICP/IPR(cold and warm) EGR, vRef, MAF vs TPS, and some other stuff like miss fire count (0), voltages everywhere I could look, and FPW. I saved a dozen files while checking this stuff and can be more specific on the numbers. Fresh fuel filters, No bubble in upper filter housing while cranking. Fuel pressure was 64 at idle, 61 when power braking or revving. No leaks on CAC or exhaust.
Possible culprits : Could I have done something to cause low power when I cleaned up the injectors? I'm sure the orientation of the spools and coils were right but I did "fudge" on the torque for the coil screws. If anything they may be a bit loose as I read a couple of times over tightening would cause problems. I am certain there is no play and a slight amount of load on them. I did clean the tips and bodies on a bench grinder with a gold colored wire wheel, light pressure and just a quick pass cleaned them up. Also, I ohmed the coils while they were on the bench. No shorts or opens except where there was supposed to be opens. All the coils were .5ohm except three read .6 and two read .8. Injector buzz sounds raggedy, not smooth. Any of that a issue?
Cold ICP/IPR is higher than it used to be, at 40 degrees I see 35% and 1300psi but ICP desired is 1250psi. I also noticed monitoring the TPS, rpm desired stays at 0. All three tracks measure position but one shows a constant .25v while the other two vary. Throttle position fault stays at "no" at all times. When it was a warm no-start (at the beginning of all this) I cranked it for maybe a minute total. ICP never went above 300psi so I knew why it wasn't starting. It was cranking normally in the beginning but part way through the second try RPM's went up suddenly as if it got easier to turn. When I started the truck the next day it limped home in this "low power" mode and even though it starts righ up now and idles smooth cold, the power issue remains. I plan to get a better set-up and recheck fuel pressure at WOT tomorrow.
Ford 7.3L Power Stroke (1999-2003) :: Truck Runs Very Rough And Lacks Power When Cold
My truck runs very rough and lacks power when cold, even during the Texas summer. Once it warms-up, everything is fine. It's almost like turning on a light switch. If it's plugged in for a couple/few hours, it's smooth as soon as it starts. I'm assuming it likes the oil once it reaches a specific temperature. What my problem is?
View 14 RepliesSC/SL/SW :: 1995 - How Many Quarts Does 1.9 Liter DOHC Engine Hold
1995 sedan, how many quarts does the 1.9 liter dohc engine hold.
What weight should I use?
Seems to burn a little oil, anything to reduce this?
Jeep - Cherokee :: 1998 SE Sounds Like A 747 But No Power
I've a 1998 Jeep Cherokee SE 4.0In the morning when it's cold the motor sounds like it's in high rev but the jeep isn't really moving all that fast - just more noise than speed. After it warms up it has plenty of pep and can leave rubber. What is the problem with it?
View 10 RepliesVolvo - V70 :: 2001/ 24T Vehicle Runs Smooth When Cold / Runs Rough With Delayed Acceleration On Warm Up
My 2001 V70 24T runs smooth when cold as it warms up it runs rough with delayed acceleration reaction ....
View 1 RepliesCaravan/Voyager :: 93 / 3.3 Liter - Van Stumbles And Stalls At Operating Temp?
When I start my van first thing in the morning it starts fine when it reaches t2he normal operating temp on my gauges, it begins to stall and dies. Then after Restarting it once or twice it runs great the rest of the day.
View 1 RepliesRanger :: 2.3 Liter Engine Warmed Up - Idle Air Control Valve?
After its 2.3 liter engine is warmed up, our '87 Ranger has intermittent problems of idle dropping to nearly dying altogether and then overcompensating to recover. Normally, after throttling up to 1500rpm or so, it will idle steady for 15 or 20 seconds then start the process again.
After normal tuneup part replacements (i.e. plugs, wires, cap, rotor and fuel filters=there are 2), I spent over $100 on replacing O2, throttle position and EGR sensors but symptoms still occur. Was advised to consider replacing the Mass Air Flow sensor but that part doesn't exist for the '87 model. Was told the equivalent part is "Idle Air Control Valve" at approximately $80.