My 2004 Chev Aveo has recently developed a strange misfire pattern. I am hoping to get some clues before I take it to a mechanic. It only misfires when at an idle and then again between 50 and 55 mph going up an incline. Above 55, it runs fine. Between 5 and 50, it runs fine. It has 109,000 miles and had the timing belt changed at 90,000. What would be causing this?
View 4 RepliesSo I have had my 02' Camry for a little over a year. Love the car, it is a 2.4L SE with a 5-speed manual. Recently it has developed this mystery misfire/hesitation under a load and at idle with the AC on. I replaced the plugs with OEM Toyota Iridium and it seemed to clear it up for about a month, but now has come back. If I start the car and turn on the AC it will intermittently start to miss but not only when the compressor is engaged and it does it every now and then under a load specifically in 4th or 5th gear under a load with lower RPM's (under 2000).
The check engine light is not on and hasn't as much as even flashed on at any time so there must not be any hard misfire codes. I want to stop by Autozone and see if they will scan it to find any stored codes but haven't had time. I would think that if it was a coil pack that it would be a hard misfire. I'm stumped. This car is in great condition...no oil leaks, interior is near perfect (replaced a worn shift knob, and door panel pieces around the window switch). Also car has 160k miles.
So my truck started to intermittently misfire about a month ago . I changed the spark plugs wires at first and it seemed to get better but it still had a misfire . I replaced the spark plugs and ignition coils and the misfire is still there . Up until the other day it was a noticeable issue but still drivable with . On my way home from work it got alot worse and started to misfire any time I tried to accelerate and now is noticeable at idle now as well.
I checked the fuel injectors resistance and they are about 14.8 ohms . I am not getting any codes for a misfire . I tried to pull the fuel injector connectors to try to find the source of the misfire but could noticeable change in engine rpm. Where to go from here and what I should check first? Would a clogged fuel filter cause something like this ?
I bought a used Ranger a couple months ago and it ran fine when I test drove it but a week later it started having a misfire every now and then at idle.. I must have gotten pretty unlucky with the test drives..
The misfire comes and goes, it will run fine for a week or two and then it will misfire at idle for a week or two. It only seems to misfire at idle, the truck runs rough/shakes but once you give it a little gas and start moving it goes away. Usually it has a check engine light on from startup when it's misfiring and it goes away on days that it's running fine; it will occasionally misfire at idle with no check engine light. Sometimes when its running really rough the CEL flashes while it's misfiring at idle and I've actually restarted it real quick and the misfire went away for a bit. The engine codes that come up are misfire on startup and misfire on cylinder 4.
I've tried cleaning the MAF sensor, replacing the fuel filter, testing for spark and compression. Compression was 150-155 PSI on all cylinders, however, the compression on cylinder 4 is different depending on whether the truck is running well or not. When it's misfiring the compression on cyl. 4 is 90 PSI and when it's running fine it's 150 PSI. I'm not sure what could be causing intermittent low compression like that?
I have an 06 Chevy Aveo that has been driving me crazy the past month. If it sits for awhile (over 5 hours), it will start up no problem. So on the way to work, starts fine; after a long day at work, starts fine. But if I stop at a gas station, go to the store a couple of minutes or even sit at church for 2 hours, it will not start again unless it has been sitting for another few hours. We recently had a new battery put in. We have had the wires all cleaned. We took it to Tires Plus, who looked it over for electrical problems as well as thoroughly checked everything under the hood. Only thing they came up with was to try replacing the fuel pump. We did that. Still not wanting to start. No lights on dashboard showing anything is wrong. There is fuel in the car as well.
View 8 Replies2002 Hyundai Elantra GT 2.0L 140k miles
Symptoms:
- Intermittent rough idle when hot, slight shutter, surges between 700-800rmp
- Intermittent hesitation when accelerating, cylinder 2 misfire when hot and under load
- Misfires in all gears under load, mostly when under 2000rpm
- Code P0302 when scanned, no other codes
- Symptoms appeared suddenly, not gradually over time
What's been changed:
- Replaced spark plugs, little or no improvement. Old plugs looked worn, but generally in good shape with no significant deposits.
- Cleared code and swapped injectors between cylinders 1 and 2, after test drive P0302 code came back, so it seems that the injectors are good. If the injector were bad I would have expected the misfire to change from cylinder 2 to cylinder 1.
Inspection and Testing:
- Ignition System Testing
- Spark plug wires and primary coil are within specification.
- Secondary coil resistance is high on both packs. Could this be causing a problem with just cylinder 2? Is it worth replacing?
Spark Plug Wires: Specification: 5.6 Kohm/meter +- 20%Cylinder 1: 2.49 Kohm (Longest)Cylinder 2: 2.03 KohmCylinder 3: 1.64 KohmCylinder 4:1.36 Kohm (Shortest)
Primary Coil: Specification : 0.58ohms +- 10%Actual: .6 and .6
Secondary Coil: Specification: 12.2 Kohms +- 15%
Actual (Cold): 16.03K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 15.94K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Actual (Hot): 18.54K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 18.44K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Air/Fuel System Testing:Fuel system seems to check out. I do not believe the problem is fuel related. There are no obvious cracks or leaks on the intake manifold. A good spray of Carb cleaner all around the manifold causes no change in idle. I might try propane later. No obvious vacuum leaks.
Fuel Injector: Specification: 13.1-14.5 ohms
Actual: Cyl 1: 14.9, Cyl 2: 15.3, Cyl 3: 15.3, Cyl 4: 15.7
Compression Testing:Compression is not great, but within specification. Could the slightly lower compression in Cylinders 2 and 3 indicate a head gasket leak between those cylinders? Could this cause a misfire in Cylinder 2?
Dry Compression: Specification: 145-218psi, <15psi between cylinders
Actual: Cyl 1: 165, Cyl 2: 155, Cyl 3: 155, Cyl 4: 160
Oil/Coolant/Tailpipe:
- Oil looks normal, not brown or milky
- Coolant looks normal and is full, no signs of leaking (coolant has not been changed in a very long time, could a coolant flush work?)
- Exhaust looks and smells normal from tailpipe.
Sticking valve? How would I check this? Bad sensor somewhere? Doesn't a bad sensor usually throw a code?
My g/f's 2004 Ford Escape (3.0L V6 AWD 112,000mi) is acting up. After a full day of sitting, with the second half of it raining steadily, she was driving her Escape and it was acting funny (miss-firing, she said). The engine light came on and soon began blinking. She got to my house shortly after it started this. We left it and I drove for the day. Later that night, I drove it and it seemed fine. The engine light was on, but not flashing anymore.
The next day I took it my friend that was a Saturn mechanic and now working at a KIA dealership (same owner as the former Saturn and current Buick/GMC and Chevy Dealer). It ran fine for me. So he tries to scan it, his Mac Tools scanner won't read it. The KIA scanner wouldn't read it. I drove it the Ford dealer up the road. They said they couldn't get to it until after lunch, I just want the codes read. They re-iterated, and I told them to pound salt and went to an independent shop where I know a guy. They read it right away for me. "Mis-fire on start-up" & "Cylinder 4 Mis-fire." were the two codes stored. He cleared them.
She got the tune up basics (plugs, wires, air filter, etc) and did the complete tune-up herself yesterday. (I was impressed). She put 94 in the tank and some fuel system cleaner in it as well. She said there's been no change and today I finally saw what it was doing. Sometimes during idling at a stop light, the RPMs will drop to almost zero, the lights dim but so far it has not stalled. It'll do this for several seconds, then correct itself and idle normally.
Currently, the engine light has not come back on. She's thinking coil pack (each cylinder has a coil on these engines) on #4. She wants to switch it out with #1 and see if the problem follows. I think that might uncover the cause, or it could be the battery. It's the original, never been replaced and has a lot of miles on it, but it survived this past winter, without trouble. In my experience, most batteries crap out due to age in the fall when the cold snaps start.
I have a 2009 Chevy Aveo that stopped working on Monday's cold snap (-20 degrees, plus wind chill) and still won't start (currently 1 degree). When I turn the key, the car turns, but never 'catches', and was starting to turn sluggishly. I had (dumbly) assumed that it was the battery, so after it didn't start when it kind of warmed up, I took the battery inside and warmed it up. A room-temperature battery and an attempted jump later, and we still have nothing. The charger says the battery's at 100% and 12.5 volts, but nothing else.
I have no garage, and while the tank is full now it was run pretty low last Thursday/Friday, so I thought that maybe there was a freeze in the gas line... but now the check engine light's on. I don't know if a line freeze would cause the light to go on, but I'm afraid it's calling out a much more serious problem. I'm broke (literally... even spending $100 for a new battery is terrifying) and am hoping that I might have some kind of solution other than towing it to a garage and paying for repairs. We're a one-car family, and can't exactly wait for the weather to warm up.
I have 2007 Chevrolet Aveo. I have changed spark plugs, new battery, changed and checked brake system. I still have this issue sometimes when am braking the engine loses power and at times will cut off while braking or if you brake hard it'll lose power, the car shut down, the engine, power steering and everything went off and all the dash lights lit up. Even sometimes when on parking and AC is on, once I change gear to D or R it shuts down. And it looks like the AC is weakening engine's power also.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2009 Chevy Aveo. When I had the transmission serviced, the shop put only half the fluid in because transmission was "clogged up" and needed to losen up before a full flush. I've talked with other repair shops and they say it should have had a full flush. Is this normal?
View 16 RepliesMy husband has a 2009 Chevy Aveo, he's had several issues lately, split radiator hoses, an oil pan issue and now he says it's decelerating when he's driving on the highway, the engine doesn't rev when he presses the gas pedal, we can't afford a new car but he's afraid to drive an iffy car through the winter on a somewhat long commute?
View 11 RepliesMy wife's 07 Chevy Aveo was towed home Tuesday. She tried downshifting on the freeway and suddenly she couldn't get it in or out of gear. I was able to get it in all gears but the clutch engagement was all wrong. there didn't seem to be any slip zone, it just jumped at 1/2 pedal. I found the clutch master cylinder leaking slightly under the boot so I changed it and bled the system, no change. I had backed the car out of the garage onto the upward sloped driveway which required a lot of RPM's. Later I couldn't get it out of gear and cannot disengage the clutch, even to allow it to roll. I also changed the slave cylinder, still no luck. I changed the clutch, throw out bearing, and had the flywheel resurfaced last April.
View 19 RepliesA few days ago, the change oil light came on in my car. I haven't had a chance to change it yet, but now the last day or two, when I go to start my car, I've been having small problems with the car starting. It sputters for a few seconds and the gauges jiggle a bit, the battery light and oil pressure light blink on and off a few times, but so far it still starts every time. Once it's started, as well, it's running fine. Not sure it's related or if there's something else going on (never had it happen before when the oil change light has registered).
View 4 RepliesI just bought my 2007 Chevy Aveo about a month ago. When I got it it had 79k miles on it. I've put almost 1k so far. When I got it I noticed it did this tiny jerk thing when it got up to 50miles/hr but then stopped after I passed that. well lately its been jerking when I start the car and accelerate. Eventually the jerking subsides but the makes this weird noise when its just running. almost like it's struggling. today in particular it did its jerk thing and my check engine light started blinking. it blinked til i got to the store (~2miles) and when I started the car again to go back home, the blinking was gone. What the problem is?
View 4 RepliesI have had a problem with my 2009 Chevy Aveo since I purchased it last October 2010. Every once in a while the engine shuts off, not while I'm stopped, but usually after it's been running for 2-3 minutes. It doesn't happen more when it's cold or hot, and not necessarily in the morning or after it's been off for a long time.
It happens only once every few months, but when it does happen it's downright dangerous. Today I was pulling into traffic turning right at a red light and it shut down. I was up to about 15 miles an hour still in the turn, and it feels just like the power steering stopped working. Because it's happened before I knew what to do. If I throw it in to park and turn the key, the engine starts fine and it has never happened twice. In 15 months of owning the car it's probably happened 8 times.
I've brought it into the dealership 4-5 times and they've never been able to replicate the issue. They replaced the spark plugs etc. but it always happened again a few months later. When I went in recently they told me it was the battery and it wasn't covered under my warranty.
They also say because I didn't mention it last time I went in, it must be a new problem. I just didn't mention it because it happens rarely, and they can't find what's wrong, I don't want to seem like a problem customer.
My clock is resetting now and it's a different time every time I start the car so the battery may be an issue... but the engine has never had any trouble starting, not even a hesitation, and the radio stations haven't ever reset.
Can the battery cause a running car to shut off completely, and if so does that mean it had a bad battery when I bought it there used? I can't afford a new battery right now (well as long as it is still starting fine) and frankly I don't believe that's the problem.
Is this a computer issue in the car?
My 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan has developed a curious problem. It intermittently stalls, sometimes when slowing down, sometimes when going up an incline, sometimes on straightaways. Once stalled, it often won't start again until it has sat for 20-30 minutes. Then it starts right back up again and drives perfectly normally until the next time that it stalls-which can be days or hours. The problem is definitely getting worse--six times today. Warmer temperatures seem to exacerbate the problem. Again, the engine runs very smoothly up to the point of the stall. My mechanic was unable to replicate the problem and his diagnostics showed everything to be normal.
View 5 RepliesI have been to 3 mechanics including the dealer and no one can re-create my problem. While driving on the expressway at speeds of 60-70 mph after about 20 minutes the car will start to bog down and then stall. It will start right back up but then you can only go a mile or less and it will do it again. It has to sit for 20-30 minutes before it will go a longer distance. This is a daily event since we drive the car to work on the expressway and, of course, it takes 30 minutes to get there. What I have done: replaced the ignition coils (no change) replaced the fuel pump/filter (no change) replaced the throttle body (this fixed the problem for about a month or two. I had to buy a used throttle body because I could not find a new one) In any case if the problem is the throttle body what is making it go bad?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 Chevy Aveo - It makes a creaking sound when I accelerate or decelerate. It seems to be coming from the passenger side of the car - What might be causing the sound?
View 2 RepliesMother in law's 2008 Chevy Aveo had the ac stop working. I put gauges on the vehicle, and it was low on freon. I recharged the system, and the ac now works. Problem is, the fan under the hood cycles on and off. On every other vehicle I have had, the cooling fan should stay on the entire time the ac is working. This fan comes on for a few seconds, then shuts off. Every time it shuts off, my high side reading approach 300 psi. Then it comes on and high side drops to 200 psi. Is there an obvious reason that this is happening? Is it supposed to happen?
Forgot to mention, the ambient temp is 80 F, low side is 40, high side is 200, dash temp is 55 F. (A little high)
My 2005 Chevy Aveo makes a creaking sound when I accelerate or decelerate -It seems to come from the passenger side of the car, but it's not the seat. What might cause the creaking sound?
View 3 Repliesmy 2004 aveo gallops when idling. when i put it in gear (automatic) it takes off by itsself. i dont have to touch the gas. going down the road it will climb to 50-60 miles an hour without touching the gas. i DO NOT have cruise control. what is wrong here?
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