Dodge - Grandcaravan :: Intermittent Stall Sometimes When Slowing Down / Going Up Incline Or On Straightaways
May 11, 2012
My 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan has developed a curious problem. It intermittently stalls, sometimes when slowing down, sometimes when going up an incline, sometimes on straightaways. Once stalled, it often won't start again until it has sat for 20-30 minutes. Then it starts right back up again and drives perfectly normally until the next time that it stalls-which can be days or hours. The problem is definitely getting worse--six times today. Warmer temperatures seem to exacerbate the problem. Again, the engine runs very smoothly up to the point of the stall. My mechanic was unable to replicate the problem and his diagnostics showed everything to be normal.
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Our son's van transmission makes a clunk sound when it downshifts while slowing for a stoplight. Sign of a serious problem? Transaxle?
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I have 2000 Grand Caravan w/ 3.3L, AT. When warmed up, in stop and go traffic, at lights, or in reverse for parking, the idle speed drops, the oil light flickers and unless shifted to neutral, stalls. I've replaced the fuel pump and filter. I've adjusted the idle screw on the throttle body to 700 rpm, where it stays when the van is cold or when stopping in normal driving. Someone suggested the oil pump, and I added motor honey, but no change in symptoms. There are no vacumn leaks evident. How do I keep the idle from sagging? Would this be a sensor issue?
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OK so I have a 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L V6 with 125,000 miles. Recently about a month or so ago I began having a starting issue. Basically what happens is that when I go to start the car, all I get is one click. The engine does not crank at all. Now this will only happen once or twice in a row and then when I try to start it again the car will start fine and it does not have any issues at all.
This will sometimes happen 4-5 times in one day and then it works perfect for a week or two before it starts acting up again. Two weeks ago when I had this issue, I took it to have the battery, alternator and starter tested. Supposedly they all were good except the battery had a lot of corrosion around it. I cleaned the corrosion off and it started fine for 2 weeks straight before it started acting up again yesterday and today. I am worried that it will get to a point where it wont start at all. The battery was last replaced in December 2011.
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Sounds like an old police car siren but only about 10 % of my driving time and usually late evening hours...
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I have a weird problem with the radio in our 2008 Grand Caravan.About 2 or 3 weeks ago, the sound just stopped. The radio display still worked, time, channel, volume, just no sound.The sound would come back after the vehicle had been turned off for awhile, then go away again after some time.Now it's starting doing something even stranger... The sound will die, sometimes static with volume control, sometimes no static, no volume. It comes and goes, the radio works fine one day for an hour or so, then dies. Some days, it doesn't work at all.
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My 2004 Chev Aveo has recently developed a strange misfire pattern. I am hoping to get some clues before I take it to a mechanic. It only misfires when at an idle and then again between 50 and 55 mph going up an incline. Above 55, it runs fine. Between 5 and 50, it runs fine. It has 109,000 miles and had the timing belt changed at 90,000. What would be causing this?
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I currently have a 2006 B6 w/ approx. 95k miles on it. A couple months ago I had my catalytic converter replaced at the dealership and then about a month ago my car started having issues with stalling.
Symptoms:
-Car drives normal - no loss of power or anything, but then will randomly stall when coming to a stop or slowing down, taking my foot off of the accelerator. After it stalls the red alternator light comes on. Check engine light comes on and off - lately on most of the time.
-The issue has gotten progressively worse recently, but for the past month it has been inconsistent. Sometimes I can go an entire drive and not experience it and then other times it will stall nonstop. Lately, there have also been a few times where it's taken a few tries to start it, though this is recent as before it restarted perfectly fine.
-Recently, the car has started exhibiting symptoms at highway speeds as well, occasionally brief episodes where it will begin to jerk and shake. Usually stops as pressure is applied to the gas pedal.
-Also, have issues with the parking brake... the switch seems to have randomly broken in the center (no clue how) and I keep getting a parking brake fault. Not sure if this is related or an entirely separate issue.
I took the car to a very reputable independent VW/Audi shop and after several days they still have been unable to locate the issue. Based on the codes the MIL was sending the first visit, they replaced the low fuel pressure sensor and the cam position sender. Neither fixed the problem. So, now I have to decide where to go from here... They took off the labor and only charged me for the parts.
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I have problem with an occasional stall that occurs when the engine is warm and slowing to a stop. I have a 1994 fuel injected E-350 460ci motor home. The engine runs great 90% of the time. When cold or sitting the vehicle will start and idle great. After warming up 5-100 miles occasionally I will slow down to stop, the rmps will fluctuate from 400 to 750 rpm as will the vacuum then die. The engine will start up fine but idle roughly wanting to die again during this period. Once the rpms are above 1000 and put into gear the engine will take off and accelerate great. This stalling tendency will last about 15 minutes (if I stop) then appear to go away and not reoccur during that trip.
At high speed and hill climbing the engine does great. It has occurred once on each of my last 4 trips. I have had suggestions about: the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, and possibly the crank sensor. I'm trying to figure the best sequence on working this problem up. It might be tough in that the problem seems to go away after about 15 minutes regardless if the engine sits or is run.A few more notes: the rpm and vacuum are great and steady until the problem kicks in. Last summer a shop replaced: the computer, alternator, spark plugs, egr valve, and fuel filter. I think the parts were just replaced till the problem resolved. The problem (unrelated) seemed to be resolved after the work was done though.
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I have a 2004 Grand Caravan 3.8 engine. For the last 2 months the oil light has been coming on when car is first started. If I stop engine and start again the light will be off. I don't think its actual oil pressure because the car runs fine with light on or off. I'm thinking a bad pressure sensor?
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Sometimes when I start my 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3 liter engine, the oil light comes on and stays on, even if I rev engine up. Engine sounds normal, does not sound like oil pressure is low. If I turn engine off and the immediately back on, light goes out and stays out. I replaced the oil pressure sending unit - didn't work. I hooked up a gauge - engine has 60 psi oil pressure at idle - plenty! I'm guessing an electrical problem in the circuit.
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I have a 2005 Grand Caravan, this winter has been a cold one. The GC has always started without problem but after I back out of my parking spot, it sits outside, I put it into Drive and it will not move and after I give it a little gas it would still not move. None of the gears seem to work, but if I wait a little bit and the Van warms a little more it will go into gear and all is good. This does not happen all the time and when it does go into gear and I drive I do not have anymore problems until the next time it will "act up" on me again. Is this a problem or is it a cold problem and not a transmission problem?
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My 2000 Dodge Grand caravan loses its gauges every so often. engine light comes on as well as ABS...
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I got a great deal on this van, and I love it, with one exception. On hot days (73 degrees and hotter) the van will not start if it has been parked in the sun; until the temperature returns down to around 61 degrees (usually overnight, but I have waited it out in the parking lot at work a few times).
When this happens, the lights and radio work fine; the starter motor will not engage. No click, no chugga-chugga vroom-vroom. Sad Curto.
Note: October through about May in North Carolina, this car is fine.
I have replaced the steering column (after replacing the clock spring); I have replaced the Power Distribution Center.
When the problem first surfaced two years ago, I had a mechanic install a wire directly from the starter motor relay to the solenoid. That was an expensive lesson. I'm not sure what the lesson is, so it was REALLY expensive.
So, I thought maybe the Auto Shutdown Relay. Nope... pull that out, and the starter still turns, so that is not my problem. Now I am starting to thing Powertrain Control Module, or something else that could have a temperature-sensitive component.
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I have a 2004 Dodge Grand Caravan with 120,000 miles. Starting at about 45mph the car has a really bad shimmy when accelerating. The shimmy fades starting at about 55 mph. There is no shimmy when not accelerating. Gently applying the breaks has no effect on the shimmy. I've put on new tires, Change the steering rack and struts and the engine and tranny mounts. what could be causing this?
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I have a '09 Dodge caravan. The ABS, ESP, TCS, and Brake lights are on. As we drive along the brakes apply, probably on only wheel. After we stop, we can drive on for a short way and it happens again. A mechanic told us that the steering sensor was telling the computer that the steering wheel was turned all the way to the left. I wonder if I pulled the fuse for the ABS pump and ABS valve if it would be safe to drive, at least until we can get it to the dealer for repair. I am cheap and like to get by as cheaply as I can/. I am not fond of ABS, or TCS any way?
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I have a 1993 Grand Caravan 3.3L V6. When I leave the van set for a couple a of days (or even overnight) and then start it, I have no oil pressure for a minute or so. After the engine has been running for about a minute or so the oil pressure finally comes up but not to normal. Once the engine has warmed up the oil pressure returns to what could be considered "normal". After the cold start, no oil pressure problem, the engine and the oil pressure is fine for the rest of the day. Let it even set overnight though and I have a repeat no oil pressure with start up.
I am thinking that there is a problem with the pick up tube not sealing properly and allowing the oil to bleed down while the engine is off for an extended period of time. So, in effect, I have to basically prime the oil pump at each start up. I haven't noticed any leaks of engine oil anywhere, so I am thinking that this is an internal problem. Is there a check valve or O-Ring associated with the pick up tube or oil pump that may cause this problem? Is it a fairly easy problem to correct? On this engine the oil pump is located in the front of the engine block behind the timing chain cover. (As best as I could determine from the Haynes Manual).
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Lifters are rattling. They have been replaced and are still rattling.
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I have a 1998 Grand Caravan 3.8L engine with 157K on it. A month ago changed the EGR valve and replaced the transmission oil. Two days ago, went for shopping, parked the van. Came back and did not start (no crank, nothing). Called AAA, checked for battery, which was good. Radio, wiper, lights work. Had to tow to the shop. The mechanic checked for all possible problems. Said everything (Fuse, battery, starter motor, alternator) is good. He is clueless. Told him to check the ignition switch (may be worn out). He says it doesn't seem so.
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The 96 Caravan I bought a year ago came equipped with an aftermarket dent in the oil pan. It's a bent up generally flat, not all at one point, but there's no leak and no other apparent problem, though of course it does reduce the oil capacity. When I had some overdue warranty work done at a dealer, the service writer told me the dent is exactly where the the oil pickup is, which mostly sounded like the dealer looking for some extra work. I decided I'd replace the pan myself when I had enough miles on the car to see if it was worth the effort.
The pan has a lower sump area that measures roughly 5" x 7" and that entire portion is pushed up somewhat evenly. I'd estimate the deepest part of the deformation is almost an inch, so less than 35 cubic inches lost capacity. 35 cu in = .606 quart.
I can buy a new oil pan w/ gasket at Rock Auto for a shade over fifty bucks to add to an order I otherwise need to place with them. A used pan at the local junkyard would cost ten or twenty bucks plus my labor plus the gasket, which I judge as not enough cheaper to be worth my time and inconvenience (they want me to capture the used oil and take it with me). So it's either buy the new oil pan, or fix something else. Or pull the pan, bend it back to shape, and replace the gasket? It appears to me that the pan gasket may be seeping, though not enough to drip, so it's probably due for a gasket anyway.
Should I care about this, or learn to love the dent?
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One tech wanted to replace both rotors and sanding down the pads to re-use (he said my brake pads can last up to one year). The guy in auto part said the surface of brake pads having hard spots could cause the pulsation, replace the pads. Of course, replace both rotors and pads is recommended but I have tight budget! What options do I have? can I just machine the rotors?
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