Chevrolet - C-10 :: 1979 Not Starting / Engine With No Spark
Dec 1, 2014
1979 chevy c10.. No start.... 4.1 engine with no spark.... I have replaced everything in distributor including plugs and wire still no spark rotor is turning when engine cranks so I assume timing chain is good
I have replaced Ignition Coil, Distributor Capacitor & Terminal Block, pickup coil, Ignition Control Module, Distributor Rotor, cap, Wires
Seems like I am just wasting money on parts and still no start. Truck only has 50k for miles on it and not driven very much. Just died going down hwy with out any warning.
View 16 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 1979 Ford Thunderbird with a V8 5.0 liter engine. Here's the mysterious problem... the engine turns over when I turn the key but stalls when the key is released. Thinking that the alternator died, I replaced it with a new re-manufactured unit and the car's symptoms stayed the same. Also checked the fuses and the fuel filter and found that plenty of fuel is getting to the carburetor. This issue with the car not starting appeared literally overnight after I attempted to install a new radio. Prior to this the car ran reasonably well – always started easily and ran without a problem. Wondering if there is a possibility that I fried some part of the electrical system when I fussed around with all the wiring under the dash. Someone else had attempted the radio installation previously so the wiring there was already a mess of cuts and re-connections and was hard to sort out.
View 7 Replies
OK, well i have an old toyota pick up, One of the spark plugs ( the third cylinder) has some oily residue on it, indicating a problem with the piston. How bad could this be? Is it worth it to try and have fixed? I also am rebuilding my carb right now, so i am wondering if i is even worth continuing if the engine is messed up.
View 6 Replies
I have a 1995 Celica that I've owned about 6 months. Great car until it broke down last week. It's an automatic and it spluttered to a stop as I was pulling into a car park (how polite). I've traced the problem to the ignition not creating a spark (removed and observed spark plug while engine turning over), but cannot find root cause. I replaced the engine management system this morning to no avail. A passerby mentioned that the 'igniter' which is built into the distributor casing might be the root cause of the problem.
View 4 Replies
I have a 79 Camaro and I've gotten a new carb(2 bbl dueljet Rochester) and distributor on it. I got timing right I do believe. I have been having problems trying to get it to start. The car just cranks real fast( sounds like good timing) , but it did sputter out the tail pipe and it shoot out dark grey smoke the first couple times then stopped. I had someone try to start the car while I was near the front to listen and I heard an exhaust leak near the manifold. We fixed that but it still isn't starting. Now it just keeps turning over real fast and that’s it. I looked in carb and it’s getting gas, and it’s getting spark. I tried to mess with the carb a little to let it get more air in it. Didn't work, would I maybe have to open the carb a little more to get more air? How to get my car up and running again.
View 19 Replies
I just replaced spark plugs and now it is running rough and reduced engine power light is on. did not mix up wires or coil packs. did one at a time.
View 13 Replies
Wife's 2002 model, 104,000 miles on vehicle, but recently developed a tat-tat-tat noise when first turning the key. Sounds electrical. What may be causing the noise?
View 7 Replies
The engine fan in my 2003 MC SS doesn't seem to be working and the car is starting to overheat. The other fan, which I think is the A/C fan seems to be working okay. I know nothing about cars and before I take this to a mechanic. I do not want to go somewhere and get totally ripped off. So it would be nice if I appear to know what I am talking about... when I take it to the mechanic.
View 2 Replies
1994 Caprice Classic (350 cid LT1)... Engine cranks very slowly, almost doesn't start, sometimes starter disengages/re-engages. 1year ago mechanic checked batty, alternator and starter, all ok. I had starter replaced as it seemed the most likely cause. Eventually got better but now is worse again. Also notice a lot of movement on the dash voltmeter needle, sometimes high, sometimes low, turn signal moves the needle. Ive spent hundreds of dollars on troubleshooting and the new starter. What could be causing this?
View 4 Replies
02 Chevy Impala with 177,000 miles has re-starting problems for last 20,000 miles. New Battery, cleaned throttle plate, new fuel pump, check engine light on (emission problem was told to me by mechanic). Whats going on?
When the car runs it runs very well...to get the car started, just wait, sometimes 5 minutes, sometimes longer than an hour. All the time periodically cranking the engine...just does not start. But when it does start, it runs very well.
This problems occurs only after the car has started and is warm. Let it sit for a while then restarting the problem occurs.
View 3 Replies
I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe, and for the past couple of years, I have been having an incredibly frustrating issue with my car. When I go to turn the key, it sounds as if it is about to turn on (ie the engine is about to turn over and it sounds normal) then right before it catches, it will start clicking, the noise sounds like the battery is dead. When it first started happening, I called AAA, however by the time they reached me, the car had started again. Now when it occurs, I wait 10-15 minutes and it will start- every time. I have had it in to 4-5 different car repair shops, however no one can seem to figure out what it is. I have had the battery replaced, and several other things altered, etc, however nothing seems to fix the problem. I am not sure where to go from here, I was informed to check the fuel pump and/or filter yesterday- it happened twice on me yesterday as well.
View 3 Replies
2006 Chevy Malibu Maxx. This just started a little while ago, before I replaced front brake pads. after I start the engine whether cold or hot, the brakes will pulse briefly when I step on them to get the car in gear. It feels like the ABS, but it only does after a fresh start, and not when braking. The car stops fine. The brake pedal is a little spongy, probably because I didn't bleed them, but the pulse was already happening so I don't think they are connected. there are no warning lights on at all. Also, it doesn't do it 100% of the time, maybe 80 to 85%.
In order to bleed I guess I need a scan tool, but the bleeding procedure is a bi-directional function which is not supported by most of the gizmos available. Know of one that might work without spends thousands?
View 17 Replies
Car is a 1995 Chevy Cavlier LS. 2.2L engine, about 127,000 miles. Has a minor coolant leak (freeze-out plug) and a slow oil leak (if I forget to check the level, the oil light comes on about 3000 miles after an oil change). It's beat up, had a few years of poor maintenance (but limited use) before I got it from a relative 3-4 years ago. I do oil changes at 3-5k miles, keeping fluids topped off, and try to remember to change the air filter regularly (which reminds me, I think I'm due for one).
Problem history: About 7 months ago, I had problems with the battery going dead. Some of it related to stupid mistakes--lights on or door ajar. Battery was old, parts store suggested replacing it. New battery fixed the issue. About 2 weeks ago, I tried to start it and ran into the same problem after the car hadn't been run for 2+ days. Dash lights come on, the key-in/startup bell chimes, but turning the key to start leads to fast clicking from the engine and the chime sounding rapidly. I forget if it made any other sounds at the time. Attempting to jump it didn't work, but the other car had an old battery and the cables were kindof cheap.
Called roadside, and he was able to jump it. He suggested taking the battery to Advance, so we did that.Advance charged the battery, tested it, said it was fine. Suggested I bring the car over and they could test to see if it's charging the battery. I did that, and it seemed ok. Engine was a little rough, possibly spark plugs, but I haven't checked that out yet. I figured I had done something stupid again and left a door ajar or the headlights on.Today, same problem again. I last drove it 2-3 days ago. Headlights were definitely off. It's possibly the driver door was ajar causing the dome light to stay on, but I doubt it. Same noises when I turn the key as before, I hear the sound of the engine trying to start once (I think that it's trying to turn over), but it won't start. Haven't had a chance to try and jump it yet.
Possibly relevant: Back in the spring, it wouldn't start one day, but the engine wouldn't do anything, no clicking etc. Neutral safety switch was loose/misaligned. Mechanic was able to make a small adjustment, and it's been fine.
View 5 Replies
I have a 79 toyota pick up, that will not run. the engine turns but does not start. It has spark, though not the best should start. The carb is old but there is gas in the engine when i try to start. compression in all the cylinders is fine. A friend thinks maybe the timing chain jumped a tooth. I cant find the bright link on it so im having trouble knowing if that is the problem. What it could be?
View 5 Replies
My car recently turned over 120,000 miles. I have owned her for 5 years. Currently, the engine temperature gauge needle is moving all over the place. It typically registers the correct temperature (I think), but sometimes it goes all the way over to the red, then peaks and falls back down to the midline.
Before this started happening, the needle would lie just below the midline when traveling on the highway and just above the midline when driving in town. Yesterday, it was lying between the 1/4 mark and the midline -- much lower than normal. Is this as simple as just replacing the temperature sensor?
My mechanic noticed a month ago that the transmission hoses are all swollen and in need of replacement. Is this related?One more thing, within the last week, the electrical system fails while driving, but just for a second. I can tell because the radio goes out. Once, it went completely dead, then came back on within 2 seconds. It made me think of the alternator, but it seems if that were the case it would go dead and not come back on, no?
View 8 Replies
I get a call from my mother saying their 1994 Toyota Camry 2.2L car won't start. I went over there today and the first thing I check was the spark. I hooked my spark tester and had my dad crank the engine over. No spark. So I removed the distributor cap and tested the resistance on the primary and secondary sides of the coil. The secondary side was low. So I went and got a new coil, installed it and it still wouldn't start. I checked the spark again and it had spark, but still wouldn't start. I then proceeded to check the fuel pressure. I hooked up my pressure tester to fuel filter, with the included adapter, and had my dad turn the ignition switch to ON position. No pressure. Then I had him try and start the engine, the pressure jumped up to 41 PSI. I then sprayed a little gas into the throttle and the engine would try to start. I'm stuck.
View 5 Replies
I need getting my Buick to start. It is a 1989 LeSabre Limited with a series 1 3800 engine. I only have spark on cylinders 3 and 6 (paired on ignition coil). I have run tests to see that I have that I have 12 volts to the ignition module, 12 volts out to the crank sensor, signals coming from the crank sensor. I pulled the coil pack and found that I only have a signal on the blue wire supplying 3 and 6. I don't get a signal on the green and yellow wires supplying the other 4 cylinders. My tests would indicate that the ICM is bad. I replaced the ICM and out of desperation the coil pack and I still have the exact same problem. I cleaned the aluminum surface to make sure I have an excellent ground.
View 7 Replies
1990 ranger 2.9 ... I have put about everything new on this ranger. It has no spark, ran fine til i went across a set of railroad tracks, it died 6 months ago and never started again .. Many dollars and many hrs has gone into this thing and still no spark. It will spark when you turn the key on. Crank it and 3 more sparks and thats it. Every electrical piece has been replaced. I've checked and bought relays ,fuel shut off, new distributor pickup coil, rotor, cap, wires, plugs, coil and still no start?
View 6 Replies
Got a 2013 F-150 with a start problem after warm. If I let it sit with battery disconnected it will start up. When it will not start it acts like a no spark issue.
View 1 Replies
I just finished rebuilding my 1990 2.9 and it wouldn't start. When we did the initial start up, the truck needed ether to start and ran decently while stumbling. I found out that the spout connector was removed from the previous owner so I spliced it but still no starting ...
I installed a new fuel filter, fuel pump, cleaned the injectors, spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, rotor, air filter and cleaned the MAF. ..
Its not a spark problem because I'm getting good spark from all the cylinders and yes the timing was set correctly. It sounds like it wants to start but just doesn't have something to make it boom. There are also no codes...
View 14 Replies
I have had this car for about 6 months and it already had 1 problem with starting becasue of the key error (easily fixed)
now, like it says in the title it is turning over, lights work, taking fuel, but not starting. It might be flooding but i think that the fact it has a new engine (well I got it changed right when i got it)
View 2 Replies
