Starting - Chevrolet - Capriceclassic :: 1994 - Engine Cranks Very Slowly Almost Does Not Start
Sep 24, 2011
1994 Caprice Classic (350 cid LT1)... Engine cranks very slowly, almost doesn't start, sometimes starter disengages/re-engages. 1year ago mechanic checked batty, alternator and starter, all ok. I had starter replaced as it seemed the most likely cause. Eventually got better but now is worse again. Also notice a lot of movement on the dash voltmeter needle, sometimes high, sometimes low, turn signal moves the needle. Ive spent hundreds of dollars on troubleshooting and the new starter. What could be causing this?
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1994 Geo Tracker 1.6L 16V engine won't start, but cranks. I have spark, compression is good, fuel (good fuel), new spark plugs, the crankshaft and camshaft are timed, the distributor is timed, there are no error codes but the ECU is fine.
I've put in new spark plugs and wires, new fuel injectors, new timing belt, new air filter. All sensors are hooked up and working. It cranks, but doesn't start. It keeps burning fuel, I can hear it and feel it in the engine, but it won't start and run.
One thing which I've noticed is weird is the crankshaft is very difficult to turn when it hits certain points. I try to turn it and it will go about a third or a turn pretty easily, but then it gets stuck and I have to turn the key to get it past that point. Then I try to turn it by hand again and it has the same problem in a different spot. It hasn't started in a month at this point, I'm planning on taking the distributor out and realigning it tomorrow, but I'm running out of things to test.
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My kid is using my 94 Ranger with 215,000 miles. It quit while he was on his way to work. Engine cranks but won't start.
Fuel pressure at rail was 12 psi (Key on eng. off). I replaced fuel pump. Pressure at rail up to 20 psi. Still cranks, no start.
I replaced fuel filter. Pressure at rail up to 30 psi. Still cranks, no start.
Replaced distributor cap/rotor and plugs. I have spark at plugs.
Chiltons from 1994 doesn't list a rail fuel pressure. I see new fuel pressure regulators are set at 41 psi. I pulled mine and hooked air to it. It (FPR) cracks at 37 psi. I have lots of flow returning to tank, so I assume the fuel system is working correctly. I've never replaced the timing chain/sprockets. Distributor rotor spins during engine cranking. When I rotate the crank pulley to 0 Top Dead Center the rotor is pointing to #1 on the distributor, so I don't think the timing chain has skipped a tooth on the sprocket??????
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Just recently bought a 07 Nissan Maxima SE. Has a few issues.
The car sun roof does not work at all. It worked the day I bought it though.
Has issues turning on. Cranks slowly then after a few seconds of struggle it turns. Didn't have this issue when I bought it.
Goes idle when first starting to drive. From park, I put the car in drive, or reverse, and let go of the brake, it basically does nothing. Engine is on as if it were in park or neutral, but the car doesnt move. When I press the gas it takes a few seconds before it decides to actually move.
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Engine cranks but will not start, it kicks back after cranking over for a couple of times i have replaced the crank sensor it has done this once before it kicked back hard enough to knock a tooth off of the flywheel after replacing flywheel and starter it started fine for three months then it kicked back hard enough to break a starter mounting bolt. i replaced bolt had starter checked and replaced again?
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I have a 94 chevy blazer. I purchased it not running. I replaced the fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel filter and plugs. The car ran fine for a couple of weeks. Then it started choking out after putting into drive. i tried to give it gas while shifting and it still died. I replaced the fuel regulator, dist. cap, fuel filter again, and the ECM. It now chokes out while in park. What am I missing?
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I own a 1994 Chevy Beauville. 12 passenger G-30 (1 ton) with 48k on the 305 V-8. Starting last year I have had problems starting it. At first it was just having to crank it 5 or 10 times. This was random, sometimes weeks would go by with no problems. But it became more frequent as the year wore on. Then twice, while driving, the motor shut off. The check engine light would come on and it would take the usual 5 to 10 cranks it start it. By the time I got to the local garage the light would be off and the set codes would show nothing likely to fix.
Continued this year so finally left it at shop for a week. Not once did it act up, so rolled the dice and installed a rebuilt distributor last week. Took it for a drive yesterday and after 15 miles of driving the motor shut off twice within a mile. Would not restart so had it towed back to garage. Several codes where set so they started looking. Spark tester showed no spark so they put on a test coil and it started right up. Switched back to my coil and, of course, it started right up. They checked for voltage drop but it's ok. Also checked for loose wires. Now when they start it, it runs for 15 seconds and stalls. Saw this happen multiple times.
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Bought a truck from a guy the other day. Long story, but he was a con artist. Told me the battery was dead from cranking it, he couldn't hear the fuel pump so he thinks it needs a new one. Got it home, checked fpdm, it was unplugged. Plugged it in fp running now. Charged battery. Cranks slowly won't start. Appears the engine has been changed. Have codes P0201-208, all injector codes. Cranking it over reminds me of an older distributor type engine that if off its timing. But also of cranking with a low battery. There's a new starter on it already. I'm going to pull the converter bolts on the weekend to see if they may have bound the torque when they installed the engine. Injector codes?
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Ok so i bought a 1994 celica GT from a police auction the other week and it wouldn't start so we went ahead and put a new fuel pump in it then we put new spark plugs in it. When removing the spark plugs i saw there was oil on them. My friend suggest we do a motor swap cause he thinks its a blown head gasket. Could this be an easy fix or should i go through with the swap?
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I have a 02 f350 v10 with a starting problem. Sometimes it will crank but really slowly almost like the battery is dead, but its not! bench tested the battery and actually just bought another new one. And with the same result. I tested the relay that's on the firewall in between the starter and the battery and it checked out, i also bought a new relay and i want to put it in except I haven't figured out which wire goes to the coil and which one goes to the ignition. the battery and starter poles are marked and easy to follow ..
Also last month I changed the starter but I'm starting to get desperate and i think I'm going to take it off and have it bench tested as well. I'm just really at a loss in which direction to go. The truck on the outside really looks good but living in the northeast the frame and probably most of the outside grounds are toast and I've been renewing or just placing them as I come across them. Before i forget i tried jumping the starter directly from the battery with cables and got the same result. it would crank but too slow to actually turn over.. Sometimes my radio and ignition lights will sometimes come on without the key in the ignition..
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I got a caprice 94 l99 it was driving perfect. i was on my way home then it started to put put then the engine cut. gave it like 3 mins it started drove 1 block started to put then the engine cut. now doesnt start at all just cranks the gas gauge says it has 1/4 tank of gas.
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94 Saab will not start in the mornings , it cranks but wont fire , runs fine later in day with no problems at all . Than next morning a repeat performance of not starting.
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My 1994 850 turbo will crank but will not start. it started when the car was having trouble accelerating past 40 mph and felt like it was kicking back then it died on the freeway and now will not start. i ran the error codes and got these back, from A2 452, 455, 543, 544, 545, 552, 555 and from A7 122. I'm not sure what to do?
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Is it normal for the engine to start at 2000rpm and slowly drop?
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I have 2002 2.0 Jetta that I totaled. I found a 2000 2.0 Jetta that had no engine or tran. I swapped the entire wiring harness with the engine and trans from 2002 into 2000. I even swapped the doors. The cluster, steering column and all. I am still in the process of getting a few parts to finish it up. At this point, the only thing not hooked up is the headlights and the radiator. I hooked up a battery and tried to get it to turn over today. I turned the key to the on position and the cluster did not do anything. The engine turned over very slowly in the start position.
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I have a 2011 sonata with the 2.4 liter 4 CYL motor and auto transmission. It has 61,600 miles on it. Just out of warranty...awesome.
In the last few days I've noticed it has had issues starting. For instance, when I got into the car and started it for the first time in the day, it starts up fine. Then a few hours later, I start it again but the engine will just spin slowly...I then turn the key back to off and then turn it again to start. It then will start up fine on the next try.
No check engine light or any sounds I can feel (I am Deaf so I cannot hear any sounds when it doesn't start) new battery in August of 2015. When it doesn't start, all of the dash lights come on.
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I have a 1993 Chevy G20 van that was starting intermittently and now won't start at all. It cranks but doesn't start. On one of the occasions that I actually got it started I went to have the battery and alternator tested and was told that the alternator was good but the battery was low.
I then bought a battery charger and attempted to charge it. It has not started since. It also will not jump. I have tried to listen for the fuel pump and I don't hear anything...of course that could be because I don't know what to listen for.
So my question is: what more should I check before I give up and get it towed? I just want to be sure that I'm not spending all that money for a tow when it was something easy like a relay or a battery issue. I have some mechanical knowledge but no where to apply it (i.e.: my vehicle is outdoors and I don't have a lot of tools or a decent jack).
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I have a 1983 Chevrolet C10 Silverado that I am slowly restoring. I recently had to change nylon timing gear and chain. It ran ok but now will only crank but not start. I am getting gas to the carb and I tried a couple of shots of starting fluid. It didn't try to start at all. I pulled some of the plug wires and I am getting spark. The plug wires look good. I am starting to get a little stumped.
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I have a 2002 trailblazer that will start fine in the morning and after it sits for an hour or two, but once i start it and run it for over ten minutes and i shut it off when i try to re-start it, it will crank but won't start. the dealer cleaned the throttle body and injectors, check the fuel pump for presure and it was fine,and they got no error codes?????? I've read that in can be the ignition switch??
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My 2002 Tahoe cranks over fine (new battery), but, will not start. I have checked the fuel pump relay and have control power to energize the relay, but. no switched power from ECM to change relay state. Jumped rely 30/87 and pump runs. No DTC's. Gauge on instrument panel reads no fuel. Scanner shows 56% level. Tried to use my Snapon MT2500 to switch relay state and received error message "generic device control limit exceeded" ECM?
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A friend is stumped by a problem with his truck, so I thought I might get some insight here. I haven't actually seen the truck, all that follows is from what he described, I'm just the messenger here.
The truck had been running fine on a used engine installed about six months ago. Then he ran it out of gas, it hasn't run properly since. It cranks fine, but won't start. He says it WILL start when spraying starter fluid into the throttle body, but only while the starting fluid is supplied. He also says he disconnected the fuel line somewhere near the engine, cranked the engine, and got good fuel supply (but no fuel pressure gauge reading). He's done some logical things: new fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs and wires. No luck. Figuring that he'd sucked something ugly into the injectors, he decided to replace those with no change (yes, I cautioned him about throwing expensive parts at it with no clear reason).
He reasons that he must be getting spark based on the engine running with starter fluid, and there must be fuel based on his test with the open fuel line, so he thinks it's an electronic problem, presumably the signal to the injectors. This is out of my league...and my friend is a carpenter, not a mechanic. If he could get a scanner would this kind of problem register a code?
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