Chevrolet - Tahoe :: 2003 - Die Almost Every Stop / Can't Drive When Tank Reaches 1/4
Nov 19, 2014
So far, I have a small fortune into fixing this / related problems. I'll state what we've done and what is currently happening. I've taken it to my normal mechanic several times, I'm looking for additional opinions because they basically have no idea. This is on our 2003 Chevy Tahoe, my wife's daily driver, and what my kids are normally riding in. It only has about 60K actual miles on it and is a flex fuel model, if that matters.
Originally, the truck would have trouble starting. Cranking, but no ignition. Waiting a a few seconds, try to crank again and it would start up. This went on for about a week and then it stopped cranking cranking at all. Had it towed to our mechanic. PCM B fuse was blown. Replaced PCM B Fuse (20A) and it blew again after starting. It died while trying to idle. They did some voltage drop tests, seemed good. I'm not sure they did any current tests at the fuel pump which is on that fuse. Ended up there for 4 days (yes, lots of labor) and leaving with no real clue, but a 25A fuse would work.
A week later,we were still having problems (but my memory is a bit shady). The mechanic did some pressure tests and bleed tests and said that our fuel pump was outside the specified pressure and needed to be replaced. Dropped tank, replaced pump and sending unit with a new AC Delco, replaced fuel filter. Took it home, it seemed great.
Then my wife called me and said her truck was dying at every stop sign. When she got home, I verified, the tank read 1/4 full, truck would die at almost every stop. Truck would die slowing from 45 to 20 mph to make a left turn. This was dangerous, took it back to mechanic. Mechanic couldn't find an issue, but figured it was the sending unit. Replaced the part under warranty, didn't charge me any labor. They thought that we were really empty at 1/4 tank and had a bad sending unit, but that doesn't seem to be the case now.
Here are the basics of where we are: Truck runs fine when above 1/4 tank of gas.The truck suddenly dies when stopping or slowing down when the gas gauge reaches 1/4 tank. Starts right back up with no struggle, otherwise runs fine when the tank is low..Tank never empties. We can get a maximum of 16-17 gallons in it. The tank is 26 gal, and we previously have filled it with as much as 24+ gallons in one filling. The gauge needle barely touches F when full, and basically, the car is undrivable when it reaches 1/4.
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Chevrolet Tahoe 2007
This service light came on 2 weeks ago. The next day, the car seemed to be trying to switch from 2 wheel to 4 wheel drive. Took it to the dealer who found nothing. We drove the car for 2 days without any service lights coming on. Then the switching ( 2 to 4 WD) started again, but this time the transmission would not go above 1st gear. Pulled over and turned off the engine, then tried to restart it. Nothing. Dead. A few minutes later, we go it back home. Had CAA tow it back to the dealer. It's been a week and they found nothing. They are looking for engine codes that would explain the problem.
Is this an electrical problem or a sensor issue?
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My 99 Tahoe has started making a weird like clank noise when I shift into drive or reverse. It also has a light shake which was only if I took a sharp turn, but is becoming a little more common.
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I have a slight leak at the front differential and drive shaft. It is nothing major and I don't even notice a oil slick under the truck when it sits for a longer period of time.
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Our 2007 Chevy Tahoe 4 X 4 recently displayed a "Service Four Wheel Drive" panel light a couple of days ago (upon ignition on a sunny, dry day). The light had been steady which, when we read the owners manual, indicates a problem but no immediate service required. One of the possible solutions was to remove and close the gas cap in case it had been incorrectly closed during the last gas-up. That did not work. Yesterday, during a snow storm, I tried using the 4WD. The dial would move to the different settings, but no 4WD activated and no light illuminated indicating which gear it was in (2WD, Auto, 4H, 4L). We checked the fuse for the 4WD but it is OK.
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I have fairly new brakes on my 97 Chevy Tahoe with 202,000+ miles. For the last several months when I come to a stop, sometimes the brakes make a grinding sound (or 'boy-yoi-yong' sound- it's hard to tell) and the brake pedal feels like it 'slips' although the brakes do always stop the car. The brake don't always do this but it happens at least once or twice a day. Sometimes the problems is very mild, other times it's very noticeable. have it checked by two mechanics and they can't get the brakes to misbehave so they can't find the problem. All they did was flush the brake fluid twice and tell me it MIGHT be the master cylinder or the ABS system. My husband got laid off from his job and I am disabled. We can't afford to start fixing everything the mechanics THINK might be wrong with the brakes.
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From time to time, my Tahoe gives me the "Reduced Engine Power" error, and I lose acceleration capabilities and have to pull over. After a min or 2, I can go again, but the check engine light stays on. With no rhyme or reason, the light will be on or off on the next start up. The problem may or may not happen during a short ride or may happen quite often. I have replaced the Accelerator Pedal sensor, so that is not the problem, I'm assuming.
I've been told that it is the Throttle Body that needs to be replaced, but no mechanic can confirm. They just want to replace it and the pedal. I would really like to keep this truck for a couple more years. Other than this problem, the Tahoe has been pretty good to me. Here are the codes that have been read: P1125, 1516, 2120, 2125 ....
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My HVAC blower switch only works when I put it on 5 (the highest setting). What needs to be replaced (besides the whole truck)?
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I have a 2003 Tahoe that I love but is driving me crazy with a "Reduced Engine Power" message. I am driving along and suddenly it dings at me, the message center says "reduced engine power" and I am losing speed. It goes into a "limp mode" in which I cannot accelerate, it cannot pull itself up a hill, and the engine misses badly. I can pull over, shut it off for a couple of minutes and then start it up and run again just fine until it decides to do it again.
There seems to be no rhyme or reason, one day it did it 4 times w/n the first 20 miles, then ran 100 miles w/o doing it at all. I recently took it on a trip that normally takes me 1 1/2 hours, it took 2 1/4 hrs that day because I had to pull over so many times. I was having to stop every 3-4 miles by the time I got there. My usual mechanic has completely given up, told me to trade it. I have had it to another mechanic for over a month now, 3 times he has thought it was fixed, but it wasn't. One time, I didn't even make it the 5 miles to my house before it acted up again.
One other note on this: this past trip I made, I left early in the morning and my lights were flickering high/low. . . this went on for several miles. Finally my lights quit flickering, then I lost engine power, pulled over, shut it off. When I started it back up, the lights started flickering again. The cycle seemed to continue, once the lights would settle, the engine would lose power. I took it to a parts store and had the battery and alternator checked. They said both were fine. (Had never noticed the light thing before, but I can't think of a recent trip after dark.) How I can pass along to my mechanic?
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I have a 99 Chevy Tahoe that the transmission keeps going out in. I've replaced the torque converter, cooler lines, computer. I've even added an additional cooler on the truck and it keeps burning three the transmissions.
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My brother's truck is a 1997 , 5.7 L gas engine, fuel injected. 100k+ miles.
New plugs, wires, new rotor, coolant temp sensor & air filter & recent battery.
Started a few times after the new air filter & some dry gas & fuel injector cleaner & that was the last time it started.
Turns over but will not run! He needs this truck to tow a trailer to R/C boat shows (he makes parts for R/C racing boats).
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I have a 2001 Chevy Tahoe. My ABS/Brake lights have been on for awhile now...they go off intermittently, but I think my ABS module is bad. This is a very expensive part.
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I have a 97 Tahoe that I love! The problem is that, every once in awhile, it simply won't start. Won't start, won't crank, won't do anything. I turn the key and nothing happens, similar to having the truck in gear and trying to start it. The REALLY frustrating thing is, when I take it to the mechanic, they can never recreate the problem. This last time, the mechanic had it for a couple of weeks, couldn't ever get it to not start. I had it for a week, and it stranded me an hour and a half from home.
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My wife has a 2004 Chevrolet Tahoe with abut 100K. She did something and doesn't know what but now the car beeps anytime you put it in reverse. No big deal, it's just annoying. I've checked the book and can't find out to disable. How to disable this on a tahoe or know what to look for in the owner's manual.
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What is the embarrassing clickety sound my 2001 Tahoe makes when I accelerate with the AC on?
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98 Tahoe ac giving me warm air once again. 5 weeks ago had it in the garage. they found a leaking schrader valve and re-charged and added dye. checked it and didn't see anymore leaks. they said keep an eye on it and if it stops cooling bring it back. well.........it's going back! it's blowing warm air even though I hear the compressor kick on. what else could be giving me problems? of course i'll take it back but i'm just wondering if a switch failed this time or what the heck is happening. I was surprised to hear the compressor running with warm air.
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I have a 2004 Chevrolet Tahoe 2WD with the 5.3L V8. Tahoe has 134K. At about 125K miles, I replaced air filter with a K&N, new OEM spark plugs and spark plug wires. The Tahoe has been running great and was getting normal mpg until recently. 15mpg in town and 17mpg on the road is what I normally get. The last 3 fill ups my mpg has been below 13.5mpg. Car still runs great but at 13mpg it's starting to hurt a little financially. Weather here in NC has been normal, my driving conditions or habits have not changed, etc. What could be causing my mpg to drop by so much while the suv still rides smooth and straight?
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My 2002 Tahoe cranks over fine (new battery), but, will not start. I have checked the fuel pump relay and have control power to energize the relay, but. no switched power from ECM to change relay state. Jumped rely 30/87 and pump runs. No DTC's. Gauge on instrument panel reads no fuel. Scanner shows 56% level. Tried to use my Snapon MT2500 to switch relay state and received error message "generic device control limit exceeded" ECM?
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My 95 Tahoe smokes bad on startup (coolant) and a little (oil) on accelerating from zero. There is also a large internal coolant leak. I just replaced the intake manifold gasket as it was the easier fix; didn't do anything. Does this mean it is definitely a head gasket? Anything I can do in the meantime until I have time to pull the heads?
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2004 Tahoe that started with no heat in rear. Checked all hoses and they get hot all the way to back. Replaced rear blend door actuator and worked for a little while. Tonight, took a 90 minute trip and it blew ice cold until suddenly it started blowing heat 45 minutes into trip but then went back to cold after about 10 minutes. Actuator is electric not vacuum. Could it be in the controls where you adjust the temp?
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I have a 98 chevy tahoe and the truck seems to make a strange noise sometimes when applying the brakes. I can feel (sorta) the noise in the brake pedal. Is this something that needs a scan to find out where it's coming from?
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