I have a slight leak at the front differential and drive shaft. It is nothing major and I don't even notice a oil slick under the truck when it sits for a longer period of time.
View 7 RepliesMy front diff appears to be leaking from the drive shaft output. it's not enough to leave drips but the skid plates are oily. Having the dealer look next week. 60k on a 2011 460.
View 3 RepliesMy 1994 Chevy Suburban will not engage the front drive shaft. It has an electric actuator and it will not engage. the transfer case engages but not the front axal. When I shift the transfer case into 4Hi or 4Low it will shift itself but the light will not turn on. I have heared rumors that you might have to manualy connect it to the battery and have a kill switch in the cab. What is the problem and should I connect it manualy?
View 6 RepliesOver time, and hard shifting damage to the gears in the differential of my Chevy Tahoe?
View 3 RepliesCan a hard shifting automatic transmission cause damage to the rear differential of a vehicle over time?
View 1 RepliesChevrolet Tahoe 2007
This service light came on 2 weeks ago. The next day, the car seemed to be trying to switch from 2 wheel to 4 wheel drive. Took it to the dealer who found nothing. We drove the car for 2 days without any service lights coming on. Then the switching ( 2 to 4 WD) started again, but this time the transmission would not go above 1st gear. Pulled over and turned off the engine, then tried to restart it. Nothing. Dead. A few minutes later, we go it back home. Had CAA tow it back to the dealer. It's been a week and they found nothing. They are looking for engine codes that would explain the problem.
Is this an electrical problem or a sensor issue?
Have a 1996 Chevy Tahoe (305) Engine having engine cranking problems. It makes a slight grinding noise when normally starting. But sometimes it the noise is loud and seems to lock or seize during cranking. I tried shimming it without success, the gear even stuck in the flywheel. I had the starter rebuilt when the bendix stopped engaging the flywheel. I bought this PU second hand and the flywheel cover had been removed as if this truck has had existing starter problems. Also the flywheel teeth look ok.
View 3 RepliesMy 99 Tahoe has started making a weird like clank noise when I shift into drive or reverse. It also has a light shake which was only if I took a sharp turn, but is becoming a little more common.
View 10 RepliesSo far, I have a small fortune into fixing this / related problems. I'll state what we've done and what is currently happening. I've taken it to my normal mechanic several times, I'm looking for additional opinions because they basically have no idea. This is on our 2003 Chevy Tahoe, my wife's daily driver, and what my kids are normally riding in. It only has about 60K actual miles on it and is a flex fuel model, if that matters.
Originally, the truck would have trouble starting. Cranking, but no ignition. Waiting a a few seconds, try to crank again and it would start up. This went on for about a week and then it stopped cranking cranking at all. Had it towed to our mechanic. PCM B fuse was blown. Replaced PCM B Fuse (20A) and it blew again after starting. It died while trying to idle. They did some voltage drop tests, seemed good. I'm not sure they did any current tests at the fuel pump which is on that fuse. Ended up there for 4 days (yes, lots of labor) and leaving with no real clue, but a 25A fuse would work.
A week later,we were still having problems (but my memory is a bit shady). The mechanic did some pressure tests and bleed tests and said that our fuel pump was outside the specified pressure and needed to be replaced. Dropped tank, replaced pump and sending unit with a new AC Delco, replaced fuel filter. Took it home, it seemed great.
Then my wife called me and said her truck was dying at every stop sign. When she got home, I verified, the tank read 1/4 full, truck would die at almost every stop. Truck would die slowing from 45 to 20 mph to make a left turn. This was dangerous, took it back to mechanic. Mechanic couldn't find an issue, but figured it was the sending unit. Replaced the part under warranty, didn't charge me any labor. They thought that we were really empty at 1/4 tank and had a bad sending unit, but that doesn't seem to be the case now.
Here are the basics of where we are: Truck runs fine when above 1/4 tank of gas.The truck suddenly dies when stopping or slowing down when the gas gauge reaches 1/4 tank. Starts right back up with no struggle, otherwise runs fine when the tank is low..Tank never empties. We can get a maximum of 16-17 gallons in it. The tank is 26 gal, and we previously have filled it with as much as 24+ gallons in one filling. The gauge needle barely touches F when full, and basically, the car is undrivable when it reaches 1/4.
Our 2007 Chevy Tahoe 4 X 4 recently displayed a "Service Four Wheel Drive" panel light a couple of days ago (upon ignition on a sunny, dry day). The light had been steady which, when we read the owners manual, indicates a problem but no immediate service required. One of the possible solutions was to remove and close the gas cap in case it had been incorrectly closed during the last gas-up. That did not work. Yesterday, during a snow storm, I tried using the 4WD. The dial would move to the different settings, but no 4WD activated and no light illuminated indicating which gear it was in (2WD, Auto, 4H, 4L). We checked the fuse for the 4WD but it is OK.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1999 Ford F250 super duty 4wheel drive, lifted (really a leveling kit but had to lift rear to compensate), 5.4l. Im having a problem with my front shaft turning while in 2 wheel drive. Hubs aren't locked and its in 2 wheel not 4. I've taken hubs off and the bearing spins free soo I know its in auto. Why is the drive shaft still turning???????
View 5 RepliesWhat are symptons of a "bad" drive shaft? Just curious because during a recent trip to the dealership for an oil change a mechanic told me I had one(I had mentioned I heard a noise that seemed to speed up and slow down as I drove-kind of a whirring noise). He arrived at that diagnosis by pushing down on the hood with enough force to make the vehicle(2002 Chevy Trail Blazer w/4wd) bounce up and down - there was a clunking noise. I haven't taken it in to have it looked at more closely, mainly because I am afraid of the cost. What's involved in replacing a drive shaft? What's the cost? If it is really "bad" will it break suddenly and cause an accident?
View 2 RepliesSo today while driving, on pavement, I noticed a low humming coming from my right front tire, looked under the car, everything looked fine, the boot ect. The hum starts at about 25mph and speeds up consistently w/ my driving speed. The truck itself is riding just fine, normal, no issues, but the humming almost seems to have gotten more noticeable throughout today. What could it be? How do I go about diagnosing it?
View 3 RepliesMy mechanic tells me that the hold up or carrier bearings on the drive shaft of my 2005 Equinox need to be replaced. He says that about half the time this cannot be accomplished and that I might have to replace the entire drive shaft. From the research I have done, it seems that a press (?) and blow torches are needed to replace the bearings. I can't afford the new drive shaft, but I could afford to replace the bearings if I could find someone who was sure they could accomplish this.
View 8 RepliesI have an '04 chevy tahoe, only 70k. Very recently the front end of the car has started to shutter while driving. This happens when I am going generally above 45mph- more so going up a hill. It feels a little bit like I am driving over unevenness/ripples in the road- even when it's smooth flat pavement. When I take my foot off the accelerator and just coast the vibration stops. I got new tires put on front so it is not a wheel balance issue. The car does not pull left or right either like out of alignment. And the engine rmp's do not fluctuate/strain when the shuttering starts.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2004 Z71 Chevy Tahoe with 192,000 miles that runs great. The issue I have though is the electrical system is going haywire (no pun intended). The front A/C and heater stopped responding to the level knob, therefore doesn’t blow, the dash lights will periodically dim and go off, the horn doesn't work when I want it to, and the A/C would sometimes blow warm air when it did work. The A/C used to work on all levels of the dial, and then over time, level by level, they stopped working; however, the back blower works well on both A/C and heater, which is operated by the overhead control knob. I open the front vents to allow outside air in, rather than recirculated air, and the air coming out of the vents is A/C air, but it only blows when I'm driving of course.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1999 Chevy Tahoe 4WD 5.7L 2 door. I recently had both my upper and lower ball joints replaced along with an alignment. Recently, I noticed I have an extremely shaky wheel and it feels like the front of the vehicle is just rattling. I never had this problem in the past. It seems to do it going between 30-55 mph. Also, on back country roads where they are bumpy. Never happens on the highway.
View 3 RepliesLast night just before parking my Phaeton in my garage I've took a look and saw a small amount of oil on the floor. It was light and judging by the oil location and color it could be from the front differential. I had this on my A8 , it wasn't difficult to fix, my mechanic changed the main seal. As far as I know the A8 quattro system is the same on the Phaeton, so, should I assume that it can also easily be fixed.
View 3 RepliesI seem to have oil leaking from my front differential. The oil seem to be leaking from where the axle comes out of the differential.
View 2 Replies4WD will not work. the front differential will not engage but the transfer case does.
View 2 Replies2001 Jimmy 4wd, 115,000 miles; Recently I noticed a strong vibration when in 4WD, no vibration in 2wd. I found that the rear joint (at the transfer case) of the front drive shaft has play in it. I am assuming that this is the problem. It has the appearance of a CV joint. Is that joint rebuildable or do I need to replace the shaft?
View 1 Replies