Chevy - Impala :: 2008 - Whirring In Engine Compartment When AC Compressor Is Running
Nov 20, 2012
I have this weird noise that comes from the engine compartment and you only hear it when the A/C compressor is running and the gears are engaged while braking. It sounds like a low whirr that goes on for a few seconds. I noticed that if I shift into neutral and engage the brakes while the A/C is running the sound does not come on, also if I have noticed that there is no noise if the A/C is OFF. Could that be the compressor? the idler pulley? the belt tensioner??
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My 2008 Prius has started making a noticeable soft whirring sound whenever the engine is running. You can hear it both inside and outside of the car. The sound lasts exactly 30 seconds, then pauses for 4 seconds, than repeats . When the car is turned off, the sound can be heard for about another 10 minutes before it shuts off entirely.
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I have a 2009 Prius with about 56K miles on it that I absolutely love. Now I know from reading in the forums an my own experience that when the A/C compressor starts running you hear an electric whirring sound. My question is... is it a cause for concern when the sound it makes seems different -- the pitch sounds lower to me now. The A/C still works fine, but I didn't know if this changing sound means the compressor was on the way out.
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my mom's car is a 2008 chevy impala police car. This police car has an extra oil cooler unit. the rubber hose is leaking oil right at the point where the rubber is crimped to the metal end connection nut. since this is a police car the rubber hose is very expensive at the dealer (over $300 for the part only). Is there a cheap way to seal this leak with some form of heat resistant tape or glue compound ? or, can I cut the existing rubber hose and remove the leaking end & replace with a 3rd party rubber hose with the correct end and then join the two rubber hoses at the cut portion together with some creative scheme like a metal tube insert with metal tie wrap clamps? Any creative solution that i can deploy to stop this oil leak.
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I own a 1999 Toyota sienna that has 112,000 miles. For the past few months there has been a whirring noise that seems to be coming from the center engine compartment. It started quietly and now has increased in volume. It reminds me of a speedometer cable that is beginning to fail. I have taken it to my trusted mechanic for a diagnosis and he thought it was metal on metal noise from the transmission. I have owned cars for 40 plus years and have'nt heard of this type of tranny noise. What could be causing this? It makes this noise under power and when I release the accelerator the noise almost disappears. Also there is a clunking noise coming from the passenger front wheel after releasing the brake pedal when I come to a stop. I have replaced the strut,ball joint,and lower control arm bushing trying to remedy this. I cannot find anything else that is loose.
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So my girlfriends Toyota RAV4 (2005) is making a medium pitched whirring noise from the passenger side of the engine compartment. (Same area where the serpentine belt and the alternator and all those goods are located.) The battery warning light is on, solid. I have not had a chance to take my DMM and check voltage but I suspect this is going to be a bad alternator since it is a noise consistent with the RPM of the vehicle and visual inspection of the belt is that it is still in one piece, not frayed, flexible, etc. I didn't rev the engine because I didn't want to freak her (the gf) out. My plan is to test voltage before she does anything rash like take it to the dealership which she is already planning on doing but the noise concerns me since noises tend to come from things that move which is probably an indication of some sort of mechanical failure and that tends to cost money. Luckily it's her car.
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I'm currently using a 2010 Impala as a loaner. I had bought a 2005 Hyundai Santa Fe from a dealer and 5 days later the engine blew. I've been using loaners from them for over a month until the engine is replaced or I decide on a different car. They have a junkyard engine on the floor, but they only have one mechanic so things don't get done on time. This Impala has 107K.
I did the carfax thing and it was a rental for the first 2 years, then owned privately. Occasionally the ABS light and t/c light come on but I'm convinced it's a chafed wire because it seems to only come on when I turn the steering wheel a certain way. They had checked the codes and came up with nothing 'wrong', which makes sense to me... it seems like either a crappy connection or chafing or something. This will need to be addressed and fixed before I sign anything but....
My dilemma right now is this: The roads are currently snow packed. If I punch the gas pedal from a dead stop there is sometimes a slight hesitation and a whirring sound, oddly enough it sounds a lot like a windshield washer pump. The car runs flawlessly otherwise. I asked a friend who also owns a 2010 Impala and he says he's never heard such a noise. I don't see how anyone could miss it. If I disable the t/c, there is no noise.
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I have a 2003 Impala which up until this past monday had a tire with a slow leak in it. On monday I had that leak repaired, well the shop said it was repaird. Then driving home last night I got the "low tire pressure light" coming on, and well figured they actually had NOT fixed the leak or I had a new one. I pulled off at a station to refill, but first checked all four tires, all four were exactly the same at 35 PSI, which is where they are suppsed to be. So my question, what could have set off the LTPL if none of the tires were low in pressure or no tire was significantly different from the others presure wise?
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I have a 2002 Chevy Impala with power driver's seat. The seat has three motors which move the seat forward/back, front of the seat up/down, rear of the seat up/down.
The seat will no longer go up/down in the rear of the seat. More importantly, it will no longer go forward or back. The left side jack screw spins and wants to move the seat forward or back but eventually stops when it can no longer go any further because the right side jack screw will not turn at all.
All of the motors are working properly and turning the flexible drive shafts. The drive shafts do not appear to be stripped at the ends. After removing the drive shaft covers and reinstalling the drive shaft, I can see that they are turning when the motors are activated.
I then removed the drive shafts and inserted a square bit into the end where the drive shaft gets inserted into the gearing attached to the jack screw. The bit just spins and spins and doesn’t turn the jack screw.
I cannot removed the seat because it is in a position where the rear bolts are covered by the seat. I have tried to remove the four bolts under the seat that attach the seat to the frame. I am unable to break these bolts free (they appear to be welded or loc-tited down).
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When I press on gas petal the car hesitates and seems like it is having trouble accelerating. It also does this when I accelerate up a hill actually it is worse. The mechanic changed by spark plugs and coil pack and it is still doing it. What could be the problem.
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2007 Chevy Impala 1LT3.5L Flex Fuel 6 cyl engineauto trans50,500 miles
Note: All new struts and tires one year ago (approx 7,000 miles ago) after hitting raised pavement road hazard on interstate at 70 mph and bottoming out car. Entire suspension system was thoroughly examined for damage at the time and only struts, tires and one front wheel bearing needed repair/replacement. Also, just passed safety and emissions inspection about six weeks ago prior to this new creaking sound appearing.
PROBLEM: Since weather turned cold about two weeks ago, an intermittent "creaky door hinge" sound in the car rear end when driving over rough spots and to a lesser extent sometimes when turning. No noticeable change in how the car handles, rides, steers, brakes, etc. Just the creaky door hinge sound from somewhere in the rear end. No recent hitting of pot holes or other reason I can think of for why this has started other than the advent of cold weather. Pushing down hard on the trunk and trunk corners does not reproduce the sound, although I can't really push down all that hard so that is no proof one way or the other.
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Ok so I recently started noticing my car was overheating and the sensor would go off saying coolant temp hot. So I started by adding coolant that didn't work. I than replaced the thermostat didn't change. I saw the water pump was leaking and changed that but before I did I was driving it home one night and the engine stopped and I barely had control of the car. Now the water pump is new and I don't know what the problem is. I think it's the head gasket ???
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I own a 2004 Silverado 1500. Nearly every time I drive, I loose temperature control on the driver's side after about 15 minutes of running the engine. The passenger's side seems to be working fine. I'm not sure if it is a bad rheostat on the driver's side or a bigger issue.
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Why does my 2000 chevy impala whistle when i accelerate? it also seems to shift hard.
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So I have a 2003 Chevy Impala Base 3.4L V6 and for some odd reason when I turn down the brightness for my dash the lights on the radio buttons and screen becomes brighter and when I brighten the dash the lights on the stock radio lights go out. I started to notice this after the BCM was replaced.
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I have a 2008 gently driven suburban ltz that I bought, used at a dealer auction that seems to have developed a slow oil leak from the engine compartment. Why this has happened now?
It now has 70,000 miles.
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My 2008 ex Honda Civic. Engine: (140hp 1.8-Liter SOHC 16-Valve i-VTEC 4-Cylinder 5-Speed Automatic with Grade Logic Control).
In the mornings, when I start it, it shakes & makes a hollow shaking noise in the engine compartment. This noise is normally more noticeable after having it parked overnight or not driving it for a few hours. The shaking noise is more pronounced after being parked overnight, starting it, & also putting it in reverse. After driving it for 30min, the noise & shaking stops.
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I just bought a 2006 F150 SuperCrew with a 5.4L engine and since the weather has turned cold, I've noticed an intermittent high pitched squeal coming from the engine compartment. I've replaced the serpentine belt and the idler pulley plus another belt pulley but none of the above worked.
I've also had two separate mechanics look at the problem and both are at a loss as to what could be causing the noise. The guess is maybe its an air leak coming from either the intake or vacuum lines. But nobody is really sure.
The noise seems to really become noticeable when the temperature gets below 20 degrees and around 2000 rpms, but sometimes it happens at other times. Where this extremely annoying sound might be coming from?
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The issue I'm having is the A/C. When I got the truck the A/C was completely freezing. Recently however, the compressor was having issues not engaging and I fixed that by simply plugging the cord to the accumulator thing. . Now the compressor engages, but is not cooling really at all. It is an old truck and the compressor is a little worn from what I see maybe 2mm space when not engaged. I checked the levels of freon/coolant with a gauge and the amount is perfectly fine. Plus there seems to be no leaks.
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I found a loose blue/white ground wire in my engine compartment. Where this exactly needs to be ground ed to? Been having dash cluster light issues also.
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For the past several months, every now and then while driving the engine power will reduce and the Driver Information Center will display two messages: "Service Stabilitrak" and "Engine Power Reduced", and the ESC and Check Engine dashboard lights will come on. Shifting becomes rough especially between 1st and 2nd gears. After turning off the car for 10 minutes or so, the engine power will be restored and the ESC light goes out but the Check Engine Light remains lit. After a day or so the Check Engine light goes out. Otherwise the car runs normally. This happens at least once on every long trip where I am out on the highway - sometimes multiple times on a single road trip. It does not happen in short trips around home.
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