When I press on gas petal the car hesitates and seems like it is having trouble accelerating. It also does this when I accelerate up a hill actually it is worse. The mechanic changed by spark plugs and coil pack and it is still doing it. What could be the problem.
View 4 RepliesMy 2007 Chevy Impala with the 6-cyl engine is, overall, a nice car. One thing I just do not like about it, though, is the electronic throttle. There is a quite annoying lag between acceleration on the gas pedal and response from the car It isn't just my car, all the Impalas and other cars I test drove when shopping for the car are the same way. Even the 2007 Buick with the last year of the 3.8 L engine had a touch of lag time compared to the 1987 Olds Cierra I had with its 3.8 L engine and mechanical throttle. I'm no lead foot but when I want acceleration I want it now and not later. Guess I got spoiled from 20 years driving the '87 with its giddy up and go.
When making left turns without a traffic light, I have to allow a much wider open slot in oncoming traffic than I ever did since driving the 1973 Toyota Corolla with its four weak hamsters under the hood. I'm not the only person I've heard gripe about electronic throttle. I have to wonder what about drive by wire is superior to mechanical throttle if it slows down the throttle response so noticably???
I have a 2007 Toyota Prius. When I press the brake pedal and press the start button the engine does not start or the wheels are not powered by the battery. It gives me the following errors:
The indicator in the Start button lights in Amber Color.
0 kmph mark is not activated in the dash board pannel.
When I shift the gears it only shifts to neutral ("N") gear.
I cant move the car forward or backward. An error message is displayed in the MFD in Japanese language. It is in Japanese and I cant read the error message.
My 2007 Chevy Impala has developed a brand new problem today. Driving down the block to the store, the speedometer started fluctuating wildly. I was going a consistent speed of about 10 mph in my parking lot and when I braked to a stop the speedometer started swinging all over the place, from 10 to 35 mph. It then gave me a message on the dash saying "Speed Limited to 107 MPH" and somehow killed my accelerator because the gas pedal no longer did anything. I restarted the car and the accelerator worked again for a bit and then pulled the same problem again. The speedometer is now fluctuating wildly the entire time I drive, including while stopped, but so far the message seems to have kicked on and disabled my accelerator only when slowing to a stop and accelerating out of a stop (it happened three times).
I know that the Impala's governor is set to 107 mph so I can guess why that message exists, but I wouldn't think a governor would actually kill the car even if it kicked in at the right speed.
It wasn't that long ago that we had to have our pedal position sensor resynchronized and the mechanic had mentioned that it was possible the sensor was going bad, but I don't think that would be the problem here as it seems like the car would actually have been accelerating sporadically, whereas in my case just the speedometer is swinging around despite an even speed.
I have a '05 Accent GLS Hatchback. 5-speed, manual transmission with about 82 thousand miles on it. I bought the vehicle used about 2 years ago. Ever since I've had it, its been a little jumpy in first gear when going at very low speed. Especially during traffic jams, barely pressing on the gas will cause it to jump a little bit until you put the pedal down further. Lately its starting to do something similar when it 4th gear. When you push your foot on the pedal it jumps a little and does the same thing when you take the foot off the pedal. What may be the cause? O2 or TPS sensor maybe? It did give me a flashing check engine light for about 10 seconds this morning but it hasn't done that since.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2003 Impala which up until this past monday had a tire with a slow leak in it. On monday I had that leak repaired, well the shop said it was repaird. Then driving home last night I got the "low tire pressure light" coming on, and well figured they actually had NOT fixed the leak or I had a new one. I pulled off at a station to refill, but first checked all four tires, all four were exactly the same at 35 PSI, which is where they are suppsed to be. So my question, what could have set off the LTPL if none of the tires were low in pressure or no tire was significantly different from the others presure wise?
View 8 RepliesI have a 2002 Chevy Impala with power driver's seat. The seat has three motors which move the seat forward/back, front of the seat up/down, rear of the seat up/down.
The seat will no longer go up/down in the rear of the seat. More importantly, it will no longer go forward or back. The left side jack screw spins and wants to move the seat forward or back but eventually stops when it can no longer go any further because the right side jack screw will not turn at all.
All of the motors are working properly and turning the flexible drive shafts. The drive shafts do not appear to be stripped at the ends. After removing the drive shaft covers and reinstalling the drive shaft, I can see that they are turning when the motors are activated.
I then removed the drive shafts and inserted a square bit into the end where the drive shaft gets inserted into the gearing attached to the jack screw. The bit just spins and spins and doesn’t turn the jack screw.
I cannot removed the seat because it is in a position where the rear bolts are covered by the seat. I have tried to remove the four bolts under the seat that attach the seat to the frame. I am unable to break these bolts free (they appear to be welded or loc-tited down).
2007 Chevy Impala 1LT3.5L Flex Fuel 6 cyl engineauto trans50,500 miles
Note: All new struts and tires one year ago (approx 7,000 miles ago) after hitting raised pavement road hazard on interstate at 70 mph and bottoming out car. Entire suspension system was thoroughly examined for damage at the time and only struts, tires and one front wheel bearing needed repair/replacement. Also, just passed safety and emissions inspection about six weeks ago prior to this new creaking sound appearing.
PROBLEM: Since weather turned cold about two weeks ago, an intermittent "creaky door hinge" sound in the car rear end when driving over rough spots and to a lesser extent sometimes when turning. No noticeable change in how the car handles, rides, steers, brakes, etc. Just the creaky door hinge sound from somewhere in the rear end. No recent hitting of pot holes or other reason I can think of for why this has started other than the advent of cold weather. Pushing down hard on the trunk and trunk corners does not reproduce the sound, although I can't really push down all that hard so that is no proof one way or the other.
Ok so I recently started noticing my car was overheating and the sensor would go off saying coolant temp hot. So I started by adding coolant that didn't work. I than replaced the thermostat didn't change. I saw the water pump was leaking and changed that but before I did I was driving it home one night and the engine stopped and I barely had control of the car. Now the water pump is new and I don't know what the problem is. I think it's the head gasket ???
View 6 RepliesWhy does my 2000 chevy impala whistle when i accelerate? it also seems to shift hard.
View 10 RepliesI have this weird noise that comes from the engine compartment and you only hear it when the A/C compressor is running and the gears are engaged while braking. It sounds like a low whirr that goes on for a few seconds. I noticed that if I shift into neutral and engage the brakes while the A/C is running the sound does not come on, also if I have noticed that there is no noise if the A/C is OFF. Could that be the compressor? the idler pulley? the belt tensioner??
View 4 RepliesSo I have a 2003 Chevy Impala Base 3.4L V6 and for some odd reason when I turn down the brightness for my dash the lights on the radio buttons and screen becomes brighter and when I brighten the dash the lights on the stock radio lights go out. I started to notice this after the BCM was replaced.
View 1 Repliesmy mom's car is a 2008 chevy impala police car. This police car has an extra oil cooler unit. the rubber hose is leaking oil right at the point where the rubber is crimped to the metal end connection nut. since this is a police car the rubber hose is very expensive at the dealer (over $300 for the part only). Is there a cheap way to seal this leak with some form of heat resistant tape or glue compound ? or, can I cut the existing rubber hose and remove the leaking end & replace with a 3rd party rubber hose with the correct end and then join the two rubber hoses at the cut portion together with some creative scheme like a metal tube insert with metal tie wrap clamps? Any creative solution that i can deploy to stop this oil leak.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2004 2.4 liter camry .
When I first started the car it hesitated a bit but,it was very cold. I went to give it a shot of gas but had no pedal response . I shut the car off gave the gas pedal a few whacks and it worked fine .
On the way home the car worked fine for about 30 km , just before I got home the pedal had no response again, shut the car off , started it and drove home .
The next day it was worse , so I put it on a scanner ,the scans said bad throttle position sensor (tps) and also a few codes for throttle body valve sticking or bad signal .
I tried the easy fix first and changed the gas pedal with sensor , same thing , then I changed the throttle body itself , same thing, then went a installed a computer (ecu) and that won't even start the car .
My ecu 89661-06a0, replaced it with 89661-06a2.
The car will start on all 4 cyl and idle high for a few sec then drop like normal , once the idle hits 8k rpm the car is only fires on 2 cylinders 2 and 3 , (changed then swapped coils no difference) as its idling on 2 cylinders and I press the gas pedal it will rev to about 2k rpm and run on all 4.
I have just replaced the ABS Module, and replaced the brake fluid in my 1998 VW Passat 1.8T GLI. Now my brakes don't work at all, when I press the brake It goes all the way down. All the pipes are connected correctly and everything was put back the way it was, so I don't get why the brakes aren't working at all. Passat 1998 1.8T GLI...
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 f250 6.8L and recently I've notice the trick not running strong. Is hesitating when i step on the gas pedal. For example, I am driving on the feeder road and fixing to get on the freeway ramp, well i have to spent a bit harder on has pedal to gain speed, but it seems its struggling and I can hear muffler making like a flapping noise. Also when I am going between 40-65mph and I spent on it, the tricks kind of jerks and vibrates. Feels like its coming from transmission. I let go and step on it again and it goes away. What to check??
Miles : 96k
Year: 2004
No Check Engine Light
I have a 1999 Grand Am 3.4L engine that has 227,000 miles on it. For quite a while now I've needed to press the gas pedal slightly in order for the car to start. Once it's started it idles fine. The car isn't throwing any codes and I've replaced quite a few things (not necessarily due to this...). Here's a list of what's new:
1) Camshaft Position Sensor
2) Plugs & Plug Wires
3) Mass Air Flow Sensor
4) PCV Hose
5) Fuel Filter
I've read about the Idle Air Control sensor, but I figured if there was something wrong with this it would throw a code and I'd have a dummy light on the dash (which there are none). What are some things I can look for to try to troubleshoot this issue?
Ok so I had this creaking noise at first when I press n depress the gas pedal (how normal driving should be) and I sprayed some WD40 and now the noise is gone, but it becomes kind of sticky when pressing and depressing.
It's like when u rub ur finger on a glass window back and forth, there is time when it catches ur finger (sticks) before u can move it the opposite way, it's not smooth as it used to be (my other camrys are smooth).
When pressing a little, then a little more, it has that sticky feel, same thing when depressing the pedal. That's the best I can explain it and it is really noticeable when I'm stuck in traffic.
Do u think I have a bad pedal or some white lithium grease will take care of this?
I have a '96 2.2L Cavalier with an automatic transmission. The car has about 275,XXX miles on it. Recently, I have been having problems with the transmission. Basically, the transmission doesn't shift unless I release the gas pedal and press down on it again. It always happens around the 20-25 m.p.h. mark. If I don't release the gas, my speed doesn't increase much, i.e. it goes up to about 30 m.p.h. and I hear the engine revving hard. Once I do the gas pedal thing though, it accelerates well.
View 1 RepliesI noticed that the car take a very long time to come to a complete stop and I have to press the pedal hard to stop. The brakes have approximately 11,000 miles on them in city driving conditions. Also the slightest bit I relax my foot, the car begins to creek and move. I have to have a very firm foot on it so it won't move. Is it time for new brakes or should I first begin to look at other potential problems? Also I noticed the car pulls to right slightly could that be related?
View 14 RepliesIt happens at 60 mph with foot off the gas.
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