Grand AM :: 99 - Need To Press Gas Pedal Slightly In Order To Start
Mar 14, 2013
I have a 1999 Grand Am 3.4L engine that has 227,000 miles on it. For quite a while now I've needed to press the gas pedal slightly in order for the car to start. Once it's started it idles fine. The car isn't throwing any codes and I've replaced quite a few things (not necessarily due to this...). Here's a list of what's new:
1) Camshaft Position Sensor
2) Plugs & Plug Wires
3) Mass Air Flow Sensor
4) PCV Hose
5) Fuel Filter
I've read about the Idle Air Control sensor, but I figured if there was something wrong with this it would throw a code and I'd have a dummy light on the dash (which there are none). What are some things I can look for to try to troubleshoot this issue?
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Car is a 2000 Corolla CE.
When going at the desired speed (say 40mph) and there is lots of coasting room, I just let go off the accelerator and the car basically coasts. The engine RPM drops from 1600-1800 down to 900-1000 and it actually can coast a long way. Sometimes, I need to go faster (if I'm initially started at a slower speed) and when I press the gas pedal slightly, the tachometer shows the engine rpm jumps from the coasting 900-1000 to 1600-1800.
Is the tachometer (add on by ScanGuage) reporting it correctly? Is this a bad form of acceleration for the engine?
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This started out as an intermittent problem after I would run the a/c for a bit. Now it happens every time I get in the van regardless of if I turn on the a/c. The engine begins acting like I am pressing the gas pedal, but not flooring it. I have to press hard on the brake in order to get the vehicle to stop because it is trying to race ahead and I don't have to press the gas until around 45 mph. What in the world is going on with my van? If I throw it in neutral it just goes nuts. I have been pulling over, shutting off the van, waiting a few minutes, and then cranking up again. It could take a couple of minutes for it to start again or it will do it right away.
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The car starts if I press the gas pedal slightly. It falters a little and idles a little rough, fuel can be smelled in the exhaust after the startup (not afterwards). Once the car starts it drives just fine. The guy who sold me the car informed me that he ran the car to empty tank two days ago and had to fetch 2 gallons in a can to start it again, that is when the problem started.
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I have a 2002 avalon XLS. In the morning the car cranks but wont start unless I press the gas pedal. After that everything was fine. But recently the problem is getting worse. The car became harder to start although it will start eventually. I have changed the Mass air flow sensor, but did not solve the problem.
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I have 2011 SE, it won't start at all. The car won't start all thou all electrical are working (radio, NAV, Dashboard) but when trying to press the break pedal is hard as a rock. Dashboard computer at times tells me to press the break pedal - but it wont start, it actually turns off when i press the break and hit the start button. It happen twice before was able to start it within couple minutes.
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Is there anyway to disable this annoying "press brake pedal to start" on the 2010 with Vag Com or some other magic tricks? I searched and found a thread but no solution if there is any.
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2005 Starts fine after first start. Ficm voltage 47 to 48 on Edge insight, stc replaced...
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I have a 2010 Prius Hybrid and lately, on an intermittent basis, I will press the brake pedal and push the start button and the dashboard lights up as normal but when I go to put it in gear nothing happens. The last time it happened the fan was running and I couldn't turn it off. It's like the car is all set to go but all the interior controls don't function. I then shut it off and restart it and everything works.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Prius. When I press the brake pedal and press the start button the engine does not start or the wheels are not powered by the battery. It gives me the following errors:
The indicator in the Start button lights in Amber Color.
0 kmph mark is not activated in the dash board pannel.
When I shift the gears it only shifts to neutral ("N") gear.
I cant move the car forward or backward. An error message is displayed in the MFD in Japanese language. It is in Japanese and I cant read the error message.
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I have posted several times about my 03 Ex and it's driveline vibes- mainly highway speed and when slightly on the gas... Took it to a local 4 wheel drive shop that specializes in lifts. They jacked it up and I ran the X up to highway speed with the rear in the air. It was amazing how rough it is, even at 55mph. I hardly feel it in the vehicle at that speed while driving.
Anyway, they felt the vibration but where it is coming from. They said pinion angle looked fine and since I have a retubed driveshaft and rebuilt rear, they ruled that out. The owner has an 04 with a 6 or 8" lift and 37's and seems to know about Excursions.
I then took it to the local Ford dealer and had the service manager drive it. He strongly feels it is gear mesh with the ring and pinion. I am not totally convinced as the rear is quiet, gear wise. For that matter, my slip yoke has quite a bit of torsional slop, likely as much as the backlash on the ring and pinion but the driveshaft shop said that it is acceptable.
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When I press slightly on the accelerator just to get the truck moving and than let off the engine stays at the higher RPM typically just over a 1000. This only happens in drive not reverse and everytime I just slightly step on the accelerator. The truck only has 1K miles on it.
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2002, 90,000 miles.
Symptoms: 2-4 attempts in order to successfully start. Have to hold in 2-4 seconds for success. Still starts consistently though. CEL lit last week for two days, but gone now. Car is driven only for commuting, 10 minutes city driving, 15 minutes highway, 10 minutes stop and go, each way. Gets 40-45mpg over the course of a tank.
History: Aux battery replaced 2011 at dealer after a bad jumpstart. It may have fried the inverter. Not sure. I assume it was the Panasonic that was installed, but the battery says neither Panasonic nor Toyota anywhere on it. Pic below:
Hm. Upside down. I also attached it. Anyway...
Last year, had occasional Red Triangles on MFD and LED panel. Took it to the local Prius specialists, they said the indicators were definite HV battery cell failures, but $750 just to remove, discharge, recharge, discharge the HV cells to figure out exactly which cells should be replaced, which I think they said cost $200 each to replace. I decided it was not worth it on a car still functional and getting 40-45mpg.
Research on here and elsewhere indicates that the AUX battery is not used for starting so the starting doesn't sound like an AUX battery issue. Is it likely an HV battery issue? Time to go back to the local Prius specialists and have the test done? Are there any other ways to find out what's up?
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I have just replaced the ABS Module, and replaced the brake fluid in my 1998 VW Passat 1.8T GLI. Now my brakes don't work at all, when I press the brake It goes all the way down. All the pipes are connected correctly and everything was put back the way it was, so I don't get why the brakes aren't working at all. Passat 1998 1.8T GLI...
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My husband's 2000 Ford Expedition has 94K miles and has been very well maintained. For the past few months, it's been having intermittent ignition problems. It'll start up fine for a few days, and then suddenly will need several-to-many attempts in order to start. Engine cranks every time, but won't catch. A few times it has taken over 10 min to get it started, and on occasion we've had to take our other vehicle instead. My son and I spent 15 creepy minutes in a dark parking lot the other night trying to get the truck to start.
It's in the Ford repair shop for the third time in a month now (last time was for 4 days), and the shop has been unable to replicate the problem enough to diagnose it. (The two times when it wouldn't start for them was when they DIDN'T have it hooked up to fuel-system test equipment.) I'm getting the sense they just want us to go away quietly and buy a new vehicle, but this one is the type we like...paid for! The problem occurs at various times of day...in various types of weather...when truck is hot, cold, or in between...gas tank at different levels...we can't find a common denominator, and all other diagnostics come back fine. The only slightly creepy suggestion the shop had was that maybe someone poured sugar in the gas tank..
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I have a engine code for evap sensor sometimes this can be ignored but this is causing me to keep cranking my car in order to start up what should I look for I know there's solenoid and charcoal canister and gas cap which one could be keeping my car from starting the first time.
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Ok so I had this creaking noise at first when I press n depress the gas pedal (how normal driving should be) and I sprayed some WD40 and now the noise is gone, but it becomes kind of sticky when pressing and depressing.
It's like when u rub ur finger on a glass window back and forth, there is time when it catches ur finger (sticks) before u can move it the opposite way, it's not smooth as it used to be (my other camrys are smooth).
When pressing a little, then a little more, it has that sticky feel, same thing when depressing the pedal. That's the best I can explain it and it is really noticeable when I'm stuck in traffic.
Do u think I have a bad pedal or some white lithium grease will take care of this?
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I have a '96 2.2L Cavalier with an automatic transmission. The car has about 275,XXX miles on it. Recently, I have been having problems with the transmission. Basically, the transmission doesn't shift unless I release the gas pedal and press down on it again. It always happens around the 20-25 m.p.h. mark. If I don't release the gas, my speed doesn't increase much, i.e. it goes up to about 30 m.p.h. and I hear the engine revving hard. Once I do the gas pedal thing though, it accelerates well.
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I noticed that the car take a very long time to come to a complete stop and I have to press the pedal hard to stop. The brakes have approximately 11,000 miles on them in city driving conditions. Also the slightest bit I relax my foot, the car begins to creek and move. I have to have a very firm foot on it so it won't move. Is it time for new brakes or should I first begin to look at other potential problems? Also I noticed the car pulls to right slightly could that be related?
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It happens at 60 mph with foot off the gas.
2013 awd gs350
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I have a 2009 Camry and both brake lights don't illuminate when I press the brake pedal but during night time driving, the red tailights are on indicating the bulbs aren't burnt. The third brake light on the top behind the rear seats does illuminate. By the way my tailights aren't the fancy LED ones just the normal stock bulbs. So what's the problem here? Is it a electrical issue?
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