When I press slightly on the accelerator just to get the truck moving and than let off the engine stays at the higher RPM typically just over a 1000. This only happens in drive not reverse and everytime I just slightly step on the accelerator. The truck only has 1K miles on it.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2011 XLT 5.0 V8 with 133,260 miles. I have extended warranty for the next 12,000 miles...which is great because I drive about 400 miles a month... Anyhow it runs great but for one small issue (hopefully) that has been intermittent.
She likes to idle slightly rough in drive at a stop or very low speed, and in reverse at slow speed. If I don't maintain the RPM it will stall and the low oil pressure light will come on, which I imagine comes on because of the sudden stall.
I first noticed this while backing into my garage in the driveway, It would fluctuate in RPMs and if I didn't maintain the gas it would shut off. I took it to the dealer and all they were able to tell me was the Tranny fluid was low and it would cause it to shut off at incline because a sensor isn't detecting fluid in the tranny. I thought this was weird but being as I have never owned an F150, I didn't know better.
It was fine for a little over a month and it started doing it again at stop lights and backing into my driveway. It has become frequent but there is no issue driving at speed and on the freeway. There is no stuttering or shaking and if it weren't for the fluctuating RPM at a stop and the stalling, it would be hard to tell if there was an issue.
All I can note is that there is a clicking sound under the hood, if I remember correctly the last time this happened I was at a 1/4 tank of fuel like I am now, I also feel like it may be a throttle body issue, or some sort of air sensor, I plan on taking it to the dealer but I figure I would get a more informed answer on the forums.
I also hear this is a common issue with the 5.0s... I purchased the truck in December and since then I have only put 250 miles on it.
Engine disengages and won't respond to accelerator after starting from a stop. Truck begins to move forward 20 to 100 ft then the engine loses all power and won't respond to the accelerator.
Tach drops all the way down and the truck stops. Sometimes anywhere from 10 to 30 seconds it will reengage, rpms up and start accelerating. Other times I have to shift into park then the engine reengages.
Usually occurs at slow speed in a parking lot, stop light etc but it has also happened accelerating on an on ramp to I12.
1) Dealer checked it and replaced a couple plugs and wire because the code showed one cylinder with occasional misfire. I told them This wasn't misfire.
2) problem continues. Dealer finds no codes and drives it 35 miles in a week wo occurring. It happens again next day to me.
3) Dealer puts diagnostic capture with red button to push when it occurs. Will hold data for four events. One occurs as I pull out onto the highway in front of dealership. Roll backwards down hill into dealership lot so auto transmission must be disengaged. Put in park and engine renegades. Happens again after 20 ft. Dealer finds no codes and all data appears normal.
4) dealer tech drives it do another week. 75 miles. Nothing. Take it home Friday and it happens Saturday pulling from a stop sign in the middle of the intersection. Pump with no response for ten seconds then both engine and transmission eventually reengage.
Happens hot or cold. I typically drive with a light touch because a fast candy apple red super crew with a loud exhaust tends to draw attention from those with badges! Leaving work in the evening is like playing frogger and I don't want to be road kill!
2011 f150 SCrew Platinum 5.0 v8 auto
I installed my HID kit and it looks great. Not quite as bright as I'd like but that's not the concern. The concern is that they seem to be pointing too low. When I drive up behind another car, the cutoff point is just below the license plate. How I can adjust my headlights so they point slightly higher?
View 12 RepliesWell Prii have always been a little "loud" under acceleration due to the CVT and small engine and minimal sound proofing, BUT We have 2 Priuses (Prii??), a 2011 with 41000 miles and a 2014 with 7k miles. My daughter got the 2011 to take to college. 1200 mile round trip so it made sense.
She maintains that for sometime, the 2011 is making more of the droning/roaring sound that a Prius makes when accelerating briskly. I did not really believe, her, but over holiday break, I had the opportunity to drive both cars more, and she is right.
The 2011 is clearly louder under acceleration. It also will develop a bit of a vibration at certain RPMs, even at very low RPM sometimes, when the economy bar is just beyond the electric mode.
The noise differential between 2011 and 2014 is most apparent at cold temperatures, but it does not resolve completely even with both engines fully warmed up.
I just purchased a 2014 Prius C and am having a problem with the Hill Start Assist/Control.
At every single stop, no matter how lightly I press the brake, when I release the brake the car stays in place for two seconds (no gas), and then starts moving.
I am assuming this is the HSC and not a normal function on the car.
If I depress the brake all the way no lights come on, no buzzer sounds, but the above described behavior still happens. I've tried the light stops on up hills, down hills, and flat ground, it all is the same.
I have a 2012 Toyota Corolla LE (automatic transmission) with 90000 miles on it.
For a long time now I have dealt with a whining sound in my 2012 Toyota corolla. The symptoms are that the sound only happens when the accelerator pedal is slightly engaged. This happens at any speed. At the slightest push of the pedal a whining/spinning sound happens and if you maintain pedal engagement the sound of whining/spinning continues. The sound goes away instantly when the pedal is depressed and will again come back when engaged subsequent times.
I have been researching on the internet and I seem to be pointed in the direction of the transmission fluid to change from the Toyota Genuine ATF WS currently being used in the 2012 Toyota Corolla as the stock transmission fluid to Redline D4 as others have experienced a similar noise problem in 2010 corolla models and have made the noise go away by using the Redline D4 because of viscosity differences. I am not sure however if the same transmission model (U341E) is being used in all Corolla models.
I have a 2001 Ford Excursion Limited 7.3l with 199,980 miles on it.
It has a TS-6. My first problem is that when I come to a stop or slow down to a crawl then press the accelerator the engine stalls and dies. I have looked and looked at threads and can not find this example anywhere. There is no pressing the pedal and it remains at idle. It dies, shuts off, quiets. I have thought icp, tps, ivs
Second problem is that a/c is blowing hot. Other than being out of Freon, what could be other things to check. It does sometime go to default, but has done so in awhile. It does not blow cold in rear and hot in front. They both blow hot. I have replaced the pvh sensor.
I have a 2010 Hyundai Sonata GLS 2.4L. This problem started several weeks ago. When I turn on the ignition on the car, I hear a squeaking noise coming from the engine initially. Once the engine warms up, the squeaking sound lessen but does not go away. When I shift my automatic transmission to DRIVE, and press the accelerator, I hear squeaking noise coming from the engine again. I stopped my car and opened the hood. I could hear the squeaking noise coming from the front left of my car, if you are facing forward the front of the car. I do not know much about cars but I think it is coming from the fan belt/serpentine belt, or possibly alternator but I am really not sure.
Presently, the sound has gotten worse so I want to fix this as quickly as possible. I am second owner and the mileage on the car is 45,550.
Wanted to share this, I was strolling through the manual last night and found this on page 75 (of the 2013 manual, 2nd printing):
Pretty cool feature for them to include. This way you don't have to double tap unlock every time you have passengers with you (which for me is most of the time). You have to enable/disable it on each key you want this feature on.
Car is a 2000 Corolla CE.
When going at the desired speed (say 40mph) and there is lots of coasting room, I just let go off the accelerator and the car basically coasts. The engine RPM drops from 1600-1800 down to 900-1000 and it actually can coast a long way. Sometimes, I need to go faster (if I'm initially started at a slower speed) and when I press the gas pedal slightly, the tachometer shows the engine rpm jumps from the coasting 900-1000 to 1600-1800.
Is the tachometer (add on by ScanGuage) reporting it correctly? Is this a bad form of acceleration for the engine?
I traded in my 2011 Lariat last month because I had quite a bit of problems with it in the short time I had it. I also didn't care as much for the bells and whistles as I thought I would when I bought it.
I got such a good deal on a new 2011 Lariat Super Crew, that I traded. Shortly after getting the new truck, I had to take it to the dealer for two dents that I found the first time I washed it. I didn't see them when I took delivery because it was dark. I had not seen the truck before that because they got it from another dealer to get the color I wanted. I also had problems with the radio buttons on my steering wheel and the sirius button on the dash not working at times, damaged trim around the left side of the windshield, a discoloration the size of a nickel on the console that I noticed when taking delivery, and a ticking noise in the engine . After the truck was in the shop for 3 days, I get it back without anything being corrected. Parts had to be ordered for the console and trim piece.
I took the truck back in 10 days ago for the engine noise and for them to repair the dents that were there when I got it, along with more troubleshooting on my intermittent problems with the radio and steering wheel buttons. I get a call late yesterday afternoon with the verdict.....Ford says replace the engine due to something being wrong with the crankshaft.
I have to say, I'm pretty disgusted right now. I'm not so sure that I want this truck anymore because of all the issues I've had in the short time I've owned it. Service department at the dealer has been great, and the dealership has been talking about possibly getting me into a new truck. I'm just not so sure I want to try a a third truck. I've been a Ford man my entire life, but I'm disgusted with them right now. I certainly don't want a Chevy or a Dodge, so I don't know what I'm going to do at this point.
The other day my father and I were driving around town in my pickup, he kept looking in the side view mirror and finally he told me he thought that my bed was not exactly in-line with my cab. When we got to our destination we both got out and looked, and sure enough the bedside protrudes maybe 1/2 a centimeter out on the passenger side where the bed meets with the cab.
This isn't really a great big deal, I mean I've owned this truck for just a hair over two years now and I never noticed, That's how unnoticeable it really is. And do you think this is worth taking it to the dealer for?
I mean, I feel like I'm being a stickler here...It's not noticeable unless you are really looking hard for it as in staring directly down the length or the pickup, and even then the bed looks lined up except for the slight protrusion on the passenger side.
2014 F150 3.5 Ecoboost...
I recently got my oil changed at the dealership and yesterday when I did my periodic oil check, I noticed that the oil level is slightly higher than the "high" mark on the dipstick. Its about 4mm above the high line, maybe 5mm at most. I do not smell gas in the oil, and given that its been about a month since the change, I simply think that slightly too much oil was added.
My question is will a slight overfill like that affect this engine? I'm particularly worried about "frothing" of the oil by the crankshaft. I don't think that oil level is nowhere near to be "pushed" by pistons and affect my seals. Correct me if I'm wrong here. I drive on very flat terrain. So the question to those that have knowledge on how much clearance there is between the crankshaft and oil level in that engine is, do I leave as is or go back to the dealer to adjust. (Reason I ask is because I'm particularly busy with a project at work, and if I don't have to burn time to correct this I would rather not given my busy schedule.)
I started my car last evening and it hesitated and balked and the check engine light came on. It started fine this morning, but would not go above 30mph even with accelerator down all the way. I checked the diagnostic codes from Bluelink and it said there is a possible condition with my Engine Control System and should be checked soon. The car only has 4,000 miles and has been fine until now.
View 5 RepliesLifting 09-13 F-150 with the two piece drive shaft. I am getting a lot of vibrations at highway speeds(55mph or higher). I have a Pro Comp 6 inch lift that was installed while I was stationed in Alaska. I have the drive shaft spacer that goes on the drive shaft at the pinion. I also have a carrier bearing drop kit from BDS that I am currently experimenting with (trying to find the sweet spot). I am at a loss though because my truck is no longer fun to drive. I drive an hour to work one way and it blows that my truck feels as though it will rattle apart. I have tried doing all the research that I can find about this issue.
View 14 Replies2011 eb just turned 36k. Today on breezeway it shuddered like it swallowed a bird, and check engine light flashed on. Went to see customer left and light was off. Back on breezeway and shuddered on entrance ramp so this time I stayed into it so either there's a light that will stay on or just launch it and this time the dealer will have something to fix that they can diagnose. Check engine light is on its fine as long as I stay out of the pedal. Still have 8 months left on power train warranty but what am I looking at for a diagnose, there is definitely a problem now. What the dealership should see?
View 7 RepliesOccasionally, under the right conditions, my turbo seems to surge...meaning I can hear, and feel the turbo kick in and out...kinda like it is right on the threshhold of not knowing if it needs to kick in out not. This usually only happens when I'm cruising along and just slightly give it a little more gas. Otherwise it seems fine...plenty of power etc. What could be going on here...just the nature of the beast??
My truck is a 2011 F150 Eco Screw 4by....
It's abnormally cold here in the Northern Va area single digits with windchills in the negatives. I ran through the car wash, one of those that hand dries it afterwards to get the salt off my truck. After running the roads I went to back in to a spot and the sensors are going off. Nothing is blocking them so I'm thinking water got inside and froze?
View 4 RepliesHave a 2011 F150 with the 5.0. 91K miles. On startup-cold or warm-there is a ticking/tapping noise coming from the engine for about 3-5 seconds then it goes away. Happens on every single start. Sound like it's coming from driver side on top of engine, but hard to pin point.
View 3 Replies2012 F150 5.0L ... Running the stage 3 motorsports Tune on the SCT X4 device ... Noticed higher gear while going up a hill the motor is Pinging. Running 89 Sunoco fuel for two fill ups in a row and I have the 89 Performance tune loaded. It would not surprise me if the Gas station is selling 87 for the 89 Price!
View 7 Replies