Ford F-150 (2009-2014) :: 2011 - Shuddering - Check Engine Light Flashed On
Mar 19, 2016
2011 eb just turned 36k. Today on breezeway it shuddered like it swallowed a bird, and check engine light flashed on. Went to see customer left and light was off. Back on breezeway and shuddered on entrance ramp so this time I stayed into it so either there's a light that will stay on or just launch it and this time the dealer will have something to fix that they can diagnose. Check engine light is on its fine as long as I stay out of the pedal. Still have 8 months left on power train warranty but what am I looking at for a diagnose, there is definitely a problem now. What the dealership should see?
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I got a 2013 Turbo. This morning I gave it 90% throttle and I got shaking, check Engine light flashed on and stayed on until I layed off the gas. It drives fine under regular throttle, but for ie. Passing someone on the highway.. Yeah ain't happening, idk if it just won't downshift, or the turbo is acting up.
I have an Injen intake and Had it installed since day one or two of ownership. Bought the car brand new, it has 43k miles, and I usually give it WOT a few times a day ()
But it's weird how all of a sudden it's doing this, I tried restarting the car, leaving it to rest for a while and same result. I personally think it's the tranny not being able to downshift, even holding a gear at high RPM, it shakes. Turbo sounds like it's working fine but who knows what's going on under the hood.
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My 2009 f150 5.4 v8 went from 18 MPG to 13 MPG and the check engine light is on?
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2010 F-150 5.4L 3V gas, 6 speed auto, 2WD.
I got a Bully Dog GT Platinum Gas with plans to purchase a tune from 5starturning. Was messing around and loaded the built in 05-10 Ford Gas tune in Bully Dog... all went well.
Take it for a drive around and next thing I see is my check engine light is on so back to the house and revert back to the factory file... again, all went well.
No such luck; still have the check engine light and the Bully Dog says there are no DTC codes. Needless to say, I'm a bit freaked out.
I have tried uninstalling the Bully Dog tune and reverting to factory file and still no luck.
I think I would feel better about it if I could just find some comment saying "this is common just unhook the battery and reset and go on your merry way".
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Purchased certified pre owned 2009 f150 may/2010 24,000 mile. The check engine light intermittently comes and goes. It seems that its either cold temperature or related to filling the gas tank. The first time it appeared I drove 100 mile then the truck sat over the weekend and went back off when started. The second time had serviced for the check light and the dealer diagnostic pin pointed P0304, P0305, P0300 and P0316 and replaced cyl 4&5 coils.
Prior to the replacement of the coils the truck averaged 18.2 mpg since the repair the mpg dropped to 17.6 and now at 17.2mpg. Had the truck in again and the light was on when I made the appointment but went back off when I went to the dealer. They said the reset the computer. The light twice has since went on and then back off after a couple days. The only observation is that the outside temperature on both occurrences has been below freezing and that I had filled up the tank.
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After about 5 miles from my normal place to purchase fuel, My truck bagan to run bad and the check engine light kicked on. Mileage dropped to about 8 MPG. This morning, the truck would not start and after 2 can's of dry gas, I was able to start it (barely).
I stopped at the place where I purchased fuel and at least they admitted that they has to shut down yesterday, stating they received a bad batch of fuel from their source.
Now the fun begins...How do I get the "bad gas" out of my truck?. I now have about 1/4th of a tank. I tried to run a line to siphon the gas and I can not get a line far enough into the tank.
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My Ford Escape was just serviced at 120K Miles. After about two weeks it started shuddering between 40 and 55 miles an hour. It got worse and after about 4 weeks the Check engine light came on. I took it back to my mechanic and the read out said it had a misfiring piston. What does this mean exactly? How does one fix it, prevent it from happening again?
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He has a 2013 F-150 XLT with the Ecoboost. He has 29,000 miles on the truck.
He is ~1,300 miles into his trip; and has about another 4,500 to go! On Friday, his check engine light came on (while towing). The next day it went back off. Yesterday, the light came back on (while not towing this time). He took the truck into a Ford Dealer in Rapid City, SD this morning. The CEL light was still on this morning when he arrived at the dealership. The dealership said the code is P0299 - Turbo Underboost.
They said they've run tests and can find nothing wrong. Naturally, he is not very happy being this far from home with 3 more weeks of vacation left and his truck acting up. Especially since the CEL light is on but the dealer can find nothing wrong. I'd be puckered-up too!
Experienced this Turbo Underboost condition? What was the cause? How can the CEL light be on but the dealership not be able to find a problem?
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Truck: 2009 F-150 Lariat SCrew 5.4 4x4 with 6.5" bed
For the last few years, I've had this intermittent problem where the service engine light (wrench icon) will pop on and the truck will go into limp home mode. While it's in this mode, all of the indicators on the dash freak out. Low fuel warning will come on, temperature warning, low battery voltage, etc. Turning the truck off and back on (sometimes a couple times) is enough to get it back to normal, albeit with a check engine light that needs to be cleared. It's happened infrequent enough that I've just been dealing with it. I got the codes a couple years back, but there wasn't much information available on what the potential causes might be. The Checker Auto parts database suggested one might be related to a wheel speed sensor.
Well, this afternoon it happened again, and I was near an O'Reilly, so I took it in to pull the codes. There were 9 total in the system; 5 of which were unique:
B0025
B00D5
U0073
U0100
U0253
They didn't have any information on what was causing them. What could be causing this. I'm getting sick of having to clear the check engine light and worry about the truck falling into limp home mode when I'm at intersections.
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My question: was there some some OBD code or light I should have expected (that didn't show)? What did the flashing Check Engine Light mean?
At 10:30pm last night, I picked my wife and bro-in-law up from the Logan airport, and on the way to drop BIL at his house, I saw a brief whisp of steam/smoke rise from the passenger side hood/wheel-well when idling at a top-light. I exclaimed that the car was smoking, but BOTH my wife and BIL insisted that we had been stopped over a steam grate. (In 70 degree weather? I puzzled, but since BOTH said that had been the case...).
A few minutes later, the check-engine light flashed (three times, I think) and then went off. I drive with an OBD ScanTool attached on the dash, so I immediately switched it to scan the codes, but it reported "clear" / no codes! Either immediately before or immediately after, the car lost accelerating power for 1 or 2 seconds (at most), but then resumed normal driving. No other dash lights were on, though I did not look at the temp gauge.
I am a former chef and professional cook, and have a VERY sensitive sense of smell-- there was NONE; I watched attentively, and the absence of further smoke/steam seemed to support the unseasonal steam-grate hypothesis. I had also picked up the car within the last 24 hours from THE HONDA DEALERSHIP, who I had asked to look everything over to ensure another 6 months of problem-free driving. (I rejected their offer of a $249.00 "triple flush" of transmission, brakes, and pwr steering.) We have otherwise had zero problems with the transmission or cooling-- the car is old, but maintained reasonably well and driven less that 5000 mi / year. Boston driving, but not aggressive or 19 years old!
No further thought, as all seemed okay except for the brief "blip", and pregnant wife, brother-in-law, two dogs, and I all wanted to get home.Drove the 2ish miles to our apartment, with no further blips. At a stoplight about 3 blocks from home, a LOT of smoke/steam started coming out from the hood. Still no lights or OBD codes! At that point, I pulled over within 5 seconds, and noticed that the temp was pinned or nearly so (If there is supposed to be a light on the gauges, I had it all the way dimmed). Looking under the hood, the spray pattern on the hood insulator made it easy to find the split in one of the hoses connected just under the distributor (about 1.25in OD; I'm guessing coolant or transmission, based on the symptoms??).
While waiting for a tow-truck (since I wasn't even sure if it would do any damage to drive the remaining blocks to my driveway), and after things had a chance to cool a bit, my wife restarted the engine for a second so I could check if any additional fluid came out of that split, but none did. Once the temp was back down towards the low end in 20ish minutes, I drove the car about one block so I could stop blocking traffic-- it drove fine, and the temp didn't visibly rise in that 200 yards. Still, the CEL was not on (or flashing) during startup or while running, and there were NO OBD CODES.
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Check engine light flashed for a very brief period, car ran very rough, and then check engine light (exhaust system malfunction) stayed lit. Took to dealer this AM and service advisor asked that I bring it back on Monday morning (loaner promised) but in the meantime, I could continue driving it unless the engine light started flashing. Car is now running okay, but last night it seemed to be running on only 6 or 7 cylinders. Only 93 or 94 octane gas is used and I've owned enough German cars to know how the gas cap should be tightened. Seemed like an oxygen sensor malfunction last night but now I'm not certain.
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I have a 2009 ford f150 4.6l 3v v8 standard cab with about 53k miles on it.
Recently the check engine light came on so i went to autozone to have the codes pulled for free, it says i have a small evaporative leak.
They said may be the gas cap, but the thing is, i have a quick fill cap that came in stock with truck so the gas cap isnt even needed.
I've looked under the hood, and noticed that there is little pool of oil on top of the valley of the engine on the passenger side of the engine, could it possibly be the PCV hose that is bad and be related to the evaporative leak code? or its unrelated and i have a bad gasket for the valve cover?
It isn't affecting the performance of the engine,.. yet. I have a road trip for my work coming up very soon and i wanted to try to fix it before then.
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For the last few months my truck has been throwing an intermittent check engine light due to the same code every time - P0171. The dealer has allegedly checked everything and has given me the "We have done all we can do" speech. Lead tech even suggested that since today's fuels have alcohol in them, that a check engine light would be normal. The truck has been in the shop 3 times with no success or even remote possibility of what the problem could be.
The check engine light has since gone from intermittent to constant and comes back on after 5 drive cycles after clearing with an OBD2 scanner. Also, I'm now getting a P0174 code.
Personally, I think they're trying to blow me off because I'm a few months and about 2k miles away from being out of CPO warranty.
Truck is a 2013 F150 Super crew 2wd 5.0 with about 45k miles.
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I took delivery of my 2012 FX4 Eco in January and about a month or so later I began experiencing a loss of power and the check engine light would come on then go off again. This happened the first time in Houston traffic one day so I was pretty concerned needless to say but then it cleared itself shortly thereafter. However, heading back home it occurred again on the highway while I was trying to pass and she just didn't have the power. I took it to a Houston dealer late in the afternoon before I left but no codes were found and when I got it back to my local dealer it was determined the left side catalytic converter was bad and it was subsequently replaced. Well, it happened again and it's back in the shop while I am offshore so they have plenty of time to take care of it.
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I have a 2001 jetta 2.0 engine with only 130k on it. Yesterday I replaced the battery and everything was fine but then today as I started it up to go to work I started moving and the check engine light was flashing for catalyst damage. I heard that sometimes coil packs will pop if you change the battery.
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I had the transmission filter and fluid changed at the local VW dealership had some issues with that but they straightened that out and its been fine for a while well then about 2 or 3 weeks ago i was trying to mess with an audi and hit the gas (has the 6 speed auto tranny) and the car kinda stuttered and the check engine light flashed probably 4 or 5 times then went off, it did that a few times after that then my wife was driving it and it did that stutter again and the light stayed on, the code said misfire on cylinder 2..
So I replaced the plugs today and it did fine at first but when i got to about 55-60 and went to speed up and it started to miss pretty bad then steadied out and sped up. no check engine light or anything but it was missing.
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I have a 2006 F150 4x4 5.4. For a long time it idled poorly and would take 2 trys to start. Today it started shuddering and the engine light came on. The engine light went off but it still runs rough and smells of gas from the exhaust. It is not very drivable and I can't afford to take it in. I have lots of mechanical experience but not with this electronic junk and need diagnosing the problem. I have a code tester and this is what it said.
P0301 Cyl 1 Miss
P0304 Cyl 4 Miss
P0300 Random Multiple Misfire Detected
P2196 O2 Sensor Signal
Biased/ Stuck Rich
Bank 1 Sensor 1
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I have a 2004 Audi A6 wagon that's got 105k miles on it. A couple months ago, the check engine light came on while I was driving it. While it was on, it was flashing and the car felt like it was shuddering, like there was not enough gas getting to the engine. Then the CIL stopped flashing. It happened several times during my short outing that day, but then it never happened again. Now the flashing CIL is back and the car feels the same way when it's happening. I took it to an auto parts store to get the trouble codes read and the guy said P0300 (random cylinder misfire) and P0305 (cylinder 5 misfire) came up.
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Let me start with some background. 2001 B5.5 Passat Sedan 1.8T 5spd Completely Stock 156,000 miles. So, tonight i head for the grocery store about 5 minutes up the street. I get about half way there, when I notice that the check engine light is flashing. I ease off the gas, and coax it to the next light. At the light, the car feels like it might stall out, and the car seems to shudder, and I notice that the shudder is connected to the RPM of the motor. Meaning, if i rev the motor the shudder gets faster.
I manage to coax the car home to my driveway, and I leave it in a position easy to be towed. So, i figure that I will leave the car running, and look under the hood, but as soon as I open the drivers door, i can smell something burning/smoldering. I shut off the engine, and carefully open the hood. I find no smoke or fire, but I see that the downpipe (or whatever pipe the exhaust coming from the turbo leaves through) is glowing red hot.
I am not sure what happened. The car gave no other obvious symptoms. The other things I should mention though, are that I change my own oil. Always Mobil 1 with a Audi or at least german filter. However, my father was the original owner, and for the first 60k he used conventional oil. The turbo has always been strong, and seemed to deliver full boost. I do not know if it is still boosting in light of recent events.
For the last few weeks, the check engine light has been on and off. My mechanic scanned it a few times, and told me that it was the "Air Injection Pump Code". My understanding is that this system basically divers exhaust gas into the Cat when the car is warming up. If its not working properly, then it is just a emission problem.
I should also mention, that the car has recently been leaking a little bit of water when there is a hard rain storm. On Saturday, I took the rain tray cover off, checked the Pollen Filter, and removed the battery in order to clear out the drain plugs under the battery tray, and the brake master cylinder. As I write this, I begin to wonder if its possible that something just went very wrong with the Air Injection System.
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Wanting to put the raptor 3rd brake light on my 2011 limited not sure what has to be done or if they make a harness to allow it to work. What did it take to do it ??? I just like the running light it has kinda cool....
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I just bought a 2011 F-150 with the 6.2 liter engine; only has 80k on it. After going for a ride today and stepping on it a couple times the oil pressure gauge went down to zero and the light came on. I shut it off and restarted and it was normal again but came on a few seconds later. I repeated the process a couple times and now its seems fine again.
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