Chevrolet - Venture :: 2004 - Press Hard On Brake In Order To Get Vehicle To Stop?
Jan 11, 2013
This started out as an intermittent problem after I would run the a/c for a bit. Now it happens every time I get in the van regardless of if I turn on the a/c. The engine begins acting like I am pressing the gas pedal, but not flooring it. I have to press hard on the brake in order to get the vehicle to stop because it is trying to race ahead and I don't have to press the gas until around 45 mph. What in the world is going on with my van? If I throw it in neutral it just goes nuts. I have been pulling over, shutting off the van, waiting a few minutes, and then cranking up again. It could take a couple of minutes for it to start again or it will do it right away.
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I noticed that the car take a very long time to come to a complete stop and I have to press the pedal hard to stop. The brakes have approximately 11,000 miles on them in city driving conditions. Also the slightest bit I relax my foot, the car begins to creek and move. I have to have a very firm foot on it so it won't move. Is it time for new brakes or should I first begin to look at other potential problems? Also I noticed the car pulls to right slightly could that be related?
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I own a 2015 camry SE - 4k miles on it. Right from the second month I felt like the brake was stiffer and I always felt like I am going to rear end the vehicle in the front. Last one month it became really worst. The pedal feels lot stiff and I have to press hard to bring to a complete stop. Brake is not very responsive. I feel like its still rolling even after applying the brakes and I have to apply the brake very hard to come to a stop. It looks to me like there is a response delay between applying brake pedal and actual stop. I used to drive a Civic and this is my first Toyota so I am not sure whether this issue is common in camry.
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So tonight, I lost most of my brakes. If I kept at low speeds and pressed the pedal to the floor I could eventually stop, but not well. I imagine this might be more of a general question not specific to Ex's, but I thought I would start here.
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I have a 1999 Grand Am 3.4L engine that has 227,000 miles on it. For quite a while now I've needed to press the gas pedal slightly in order for the car to start. Once it's started it idles fine. The car isn't throwing any codes and I've replaced quite a few things (not necessarily due to this...). Here's a list of what's new:
1) Camshaft Position Sensor
2) Plugs & Plug Wires
3) Mass Air Flow Sensor
4) PCV Hose
5) Fuel Filter
I've read about the Idle Air Control sensor, but I figured if there was something wrong with this it would throw a code and I'd have a dummy light on the dash (which there are none). What are some things I can look for to try to troubleshoot this issue?
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Three days ago while stopped at a light the car creeped forward forcing me to press harder on the brake to keep vehicle from moving.
Next day drove for 100+ miles with some stop and go traffic no problems. Third day drove 50 miles and upon arriving at home brakes felt spongy and nearly hit the floor the dash illuminated "Check Brake System".
My Camry has 5437 miles on it.
The dealer just called and said they need to replace a "brake booster". They said there is a TSB that addresses this issue in a VIN range.
Image here : YouTube [URL].....
I'm glad I was only stopping to pull into my drive way and not the freaking stop and go freeway traffic on the way to work in the morning.
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I have a 2002 (not 2001) Chevy Venture and recently replaced the left rear (drivers side) tail light circuit board. I replaced it with a genuine GM part, and when I connected the wire harness to the circuit board and screwed the tail light assembly back in place, everything works properly for say a half hour or so, then I usually get the fast blinking left turn signal (like a bulb is out). Also, both turn signals come on solid when I hit the brake. A lot of times, if I turn off the ignition and turn it back on, I'll get the Service Traction System warning and Traction Off lights in the dash. If I take the assembly apart and push down on the wire harness and put it back together, everything works well for a short time again, but it usually reverts back to the above. It seems to be a loose connection and I thought about some kind of loctite to keep everything in place. Someone also casually mentioned a dielectric grease, which sounds like it would be better.
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The lower rear brake lights on my Venture aren't working, while the high light at the top of the door still works. I've replaced both circuit boards on the driver and passenger side, and all of the bulbs are fine. What I might have missed along the way?
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My brake pedal is rock hard to press and when I do press it while pushing the push to start, it does not turn on.
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Recently, my 2007 Prius will make a "BEEP" when I press the POWER button to shut down the vehicle. This doesn't happen all the time, but only 1 out of 25 times or so. Other than the beep, I can't seem to figure out what's wrong. Everything seems to work as normal.
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I have 2011 SE, it won't start at all. The car won't start all thou all electrical are working (radio, NAV, Dashboard) but when trying to press the break pedal is hard as a rock. Dashboard computer at times tells me to press the break pedal - but it wont start, it actually turns off when i press the break and hit the start button. It happen twice before was able to start it within couple minutes.
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My truck is experiencing a hard to press brake pedal. It comes and goes and does not seem to happen at any one time while driving. I know that my truck uses a vacuum pump and instantly replaced this as I figured that with the age of the truck it should be done. However even with a new vacuum pump it did nothing to correct my problem with a hard to press brake pedal. I inspected all the lines to ensure that they are holding pressure and replaced two of the three with new lines. Again it still did nothing to correct the issue. I do not have any leakage coming from the master cylinder and no hiding noise from the brake booster.
1996 F250 7.3l Diesel Turbo 270,000 miles Manual Transmission
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I have a 2004 Venture with 86K. I got into it yesterday to go to the store and it started fine when I went to leave it was hard to start and would not idle. At that point I noticed a smelly exhaust and the smell of gas. After I got it to start I took it for a quick run down the street It performed fine under hard throttle however when I got back in the driveway It started sputtering again and eventually died. I did a diagnostic test and came up with P0300.
I am not sure where to start with this code. I looked at the plugs and they were black and measured .060 (irid.. plugs). So now I am thinking perhaps the cat is now clogged up or the EGR or the fuel reg or the coil pack etc....
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I have an 04 Chevy Venture. Recently it started making what I can only describe as a grinding. I have been a mechanic for over 30 years, working on everything from motorcycles to heavy construction equipment. This is a new one on me. I have checked the wheel bearings, brakes and rotors, and suspension. All good. I have blocked her up and put it in gear, and the noise seems to be coming from the transaxle. Fluid is cherry red and is not burnt, no metal shavings, and not low. I have noticed that while driving, if I jog the wheel left or right, it quite until you straighten out again. If I weave back n forth going down the road, it's pretty much non existant, but the cops are starting get suspicious.
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I have a 2004 Chevy Venture van, the front tires wore out on the inside, badly. DH adjusted the toe (made the rod shorter, so made it more toe-out?). We got new tires, after 1000 miles, they were again wearing on the inside. I convinced him to get a front end alignment. After the alignment, there is a lot of road noise, goes away when you go around a right turn. Could it just be the tires wearing differently, or is it a wheel bearing, and could that have been affected by the alignment? We have driven 150 miles since the alignment and it still is noisy.
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So, after the dealer found an open circuit and "fixed" the running gear workshop fault, as you know, it was right back again. Today, it happened as usual. At a light, I turned off the ignition and restarted, as this always resets it and it usually doesn't come back for a day or more.
However, something different happened. After restarting, I got a fault I've never seen. By now, I was on the highway. "Brake Fault, in RED. Stop Vehicle" is what it said. Transmission would not shift out of third, and I'm on the highway with the RPMs up to almost 5 grand just to keep at around 50.
I get off the next exit, which seemed an interminably long way, shut her down, started it back up, proceeded where I had to go, parked, and came home over 30 miles with no further faults.
It's bound to happen again. I'm ready for a trade-in, for sure. 42,500 miles and it's definitely going to get worse.
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brakes are functioning fine, fluid is OK.
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I started back up again and 10 seconds later it came back on, but then went away for the rest of the 30-minute commute. Went out during lunch today and there's no message.
I'm gonna do a vagcom scan when i get home, but wanted to know if there's any history of brake fluid leaking and needing to be topped of.
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I am experiencing a hard brake pedal about every other day if the car sits overnight. I know I am not depleting the vacuum supply before I exit the vehicle by pressing the brake pedal. Some mornings the pedal is very hard and barely moves and other mornings it's normal. My brake booster vacuum check valve hose assembly was replaced to try and fix the problem but it still does it. I also know my electric vacuum pump works correctly. Is it normal? Do I have a small leak in the brake booster vacuum diaphragm? I have no other brake feel issues.
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I am having over-heating problems. The rad fans will not come on unless I turn on the AC and everything is well. I did reluctantly replace the temp sensor and that solve nothing. I believe it's the ecu not activating the fan relays.
I can get my hands on a 2003 ECU will it work in my 2005 or does have to be flashed to the vin#.
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The Right DRL Not Working on my 2005 Venture. I checked the following, also note the turn signal works and the following are ok.
Bulb
Bulb Socket
Socket harness
All Fuses and relays
When I turn on the headlights the day-time bulb lights...
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