So tonight, I lost most of my brakes. If I kept at low speeds and pressed the pedal to the floor I could eventually stop, but not well. I imagine this might be more of a general question not specific to Ex's, but I thought I would start here.
View 4 RepliesI flushed my brakes this afternoon and all went well until I got in and found a red series of lights on the MFI stating "brake fluid". I touched the brakes and there aren't any. I pumped them 50 times or so and still the pedal goes all the way to the floor board. I used a machine I have used on countless other cars and have never had a problem before. I used VW brake fluid. The brake fluid container is right at the max line. The only thing that was different compared to the other cars I have done is that the Treg has two bleeders, one on the front of the caliper and one on the back. I called a VW service consultant and he told me they use the outside one to flush the brakes and so that is what I did. My only guess is there is air in the system. But, I am not sure at all how that happened.
View 3 RepliesMy problem, Brakes. I hardly have any at all (pedal all the way to the floor and hardly stop), yet the front pads are dragging, and heating the rotors. Maybe a bent line? I bled the fronts, and as soon as I loosened the bleeder nipple, a good bit of fluid came out, without pressing the pedal of course. It's dark out now or I would inspect for bent lines. Could there maybe a problem with the booster?
View 6 RepliesI've got a 2001 Excursion with the 7.3 and while out driving around on Friday I noticed that my brakes were gone and when I pushed the pedal it went straight to the floor. I pulled over and put in brake fluid (it was empty) and managed to get home. I have discovered that the brake line (it is metal) that runs from the front to the back is rusted out and the brake fluid is just pouring out of it. What is the part called? I spent about a half hour looking for that particular schematic on the ford parts web site but couldn't find any mention of that brake line. Here is a picture. There are 3 metal lines and one is leaking the brake fluid? Can I fix it in my driveway or should I have it towed somewhere?
View 4 RepliesI have a 99 Blazer 4x4 with ABS. Brake pedal just went to the floor and car stopped eventually ... a bit scary. I've checked all the brake lines and the inside of all wheels and there is no sign of fluid anywhere. All pistons seem to be where they need to be with backing plates nicely visible.
I pumped the brakes quite a few times and same result ... but I'm not pumping fluid on the ground. As expected I've also checked the reservoir and its full. Didn't see any leaks so its full. I'm guessing that the master cylinder has given up the ghost ... truck has 470,000km so things wear out.
I recently bought a 2005 F150 King Ranch. I had a 900km drive to get it home but only mad it half way and am now stuck. I was stalling every time I came to a stop and eventually lost oil pressure. This is when I stopped driving and took it in. The shop said it had a knock in the lower end and stopped diagnosing it there. I can now sell it for parts and take a big hit or I can try and patch it myself.
I am assuming based on my symptoms it is a spun rod/main/thrust bearing. The mechanic was not very supportive to narrow it down to anything other than replace the motor.
How many km might I get out of this engine if I pull the motor and replace only the crank and rod/main/thrust bearings. This will not be my daily driver so if I can get another 50000-100000 km off of that, then it will last me at least 5 years.
This is of course assuming that when pull it apart I do not find an other major problems such as bent or broken pistons and rods or scoured cylinder walls. I am not that experienced of a mechanic, so I am not that confident about pulling the heads off and rebuilding the whole thing.
My 1995 Audi 90 Sport needs to have the acceleration pedal pushed very far, about half way, before the car begins to to move, also when the pedal is put all the way to the floor the vehicle only goes to around 70mph.
View 2 RepliesThis started out as an intermittent problem after I would run the a/c for a bit. Now it happens every time I get in the van regardless of if I turn on the a/c. The engine begins acting like I am pressing the gas pedal, but not flooring it. I have to press hard on the brake in order to get the vehicle to stop because it is trying to race ahead and I don't have to press the gas until around 45 mph. What in the world is going on with my van? If I throw it in neutral it just goes nuts. I have been pulling over, shutting off the van, waiting a few minutes, and then cranking up again. It could take a couple of minutes for it to start again or it will do it right away.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1995 Ford Taurus when I press on the brake to come to a complete stop the transmission slips from second gear to first gear. But when I press on the gas and go from 1st to 2nd gear its a hard shift but no slipping. I checked the transmission fluid it was low and dark so I replenished the fluid and put in this slip and seal stuff in the transmission. What else can I do and how long do you think I will be able to drive my car until it dies completely?
View 3 RepliesMy dad is having problems with his truck, brake pedal goes all the way to the floor even after bleeding all the brakes and the master cylinder. The wheel cylinder didn't have clips in it and he fixed it and it hasnt changed. What do we do? Its a 1993 f150 4.9l.....
View 4 RepliesI bought a 97 f150 4x4 last week. I was cleaning the frame up with a wire brush on a grinder and accidently cut one of the front brake lines. Seeing how this truck has only 100k on it and all oem stuff on it, I decided to replace the front brake components, calipers, pads, rubber and steel lines. Got it all back together and bleed the air out of the front brakes. But the pedal still goes to the floor. I can pump them up with the key off but when i turn it on the pedal goes to the floor. I did not bleed the back brakes becasue I assumed that the master cylinder would be divided and independent of each other- back and front. So it this just that the back brakes needs bled or do I have another issue like bad booster- everything was working well before I cut the line?
View 6 RepliesI did a complete rebuild of my brake system in April. Drums, shoes, wheel cylinders, springs, hoses, pads, rotors, calipers, master cylinder, proportioner valve and flushed all the lines and refilled with synthetic fluid. I have made five trips from Southern California to Idaho hauling home furnishings, one trip to Oregon and one trip to Northern California since overhauling the brakes with everything working great. Now something strange is happening. The brake pedal goes to the floor with very little resistance. It isn't spongy like there is air in the lines. It just goes to the floor if you push it all the way down.
The truck stops ok but it is really scary with the pedal going down like that. You can feel when the rear brakes come on because there is a little resistance in the pedal when they come on. You can actually lock the rear brakes up and skid the rear tires. If you push the pedal down further the front brakes start coming on and if you push all the way to the floor the truck will nosedive and you will get planted in the windshield.
I wonder if the aftermarket Bronco Graveyard proportioner valve is blowing all the pressure to the rear wheels because it won't do it if you take the vacuum off of the vacuum booster. You have full pedal when the booster is deactivated and all the wheels operate normally with the exception of having to plant both feet on the pedal to stop it.
yesterday i gave the 02 diesel a treat, 3 new calipers 4 new rotors, and semimetalic pads. the reason for only 3 calipers is the driver side was just replaced 2 months ago after it locked the wheel up on me. both rears were seized so i only had front brakes, and the passenger side front was leaking.
anyway, all new parts and the pedal is fantastic, besides the truck stopping again. this afternoon on the way home from the shop i stopped at a red light. breaks are rock solid. then all of a sudden, the pedal slowly sinks to the floor. but the brakes still hold. i get home and test them. again, pedal slowly sinks to the floor, but they hold. i am thinking still some air in the system, and park hte truck, with the intention of bleeding them again tomorrow.
i get out and see fluid all over the driveway. great. something in the front of the axle is leaking. the frame is drenched. whatever it is, is in front of the frame, on the engine side. what is in there, the ABS unit?
I have posted several times about my 03 Ex and it's driveline vibes- mainly highway speed and when slightly on the gas... Took it to a local 4 wheel drive shop that specializes in lifts. They jacked it up and I ran the X up to highway speed with the rear in the air. It was amazing how rough it is, even at 55mph. I hardly feel it in the vehicle at that speed while driving.
Anyway, they felt the vibration but where it is coming from. They said pinion angle looked fine and since I have a retubed driveshaft and rebuilt rear, they ruled that out. The owner has an 04 with a 6 or 8" lift and 37's and seems to know about Excursions.
I then took it to the local Ford dealer and had the service manager drive it. He strongly feels it is gear mesh with the ring and pinion. I am not totally convinced as the rear is quiet, gear wise. For that matter, my slip yoke has quite a bit of torsional slop, likely as much as the backlash on the ring and pinion but the driveshaft shop said that it is acceptable.
My buddy just bought a 1992 f250 460 the brake suck the pedal goes to the floor don't know if master or the booster or the rod needs to be adjusted or what the brake look ok and it stops ???
View 7 RepliesI am working on a e-150 van, 2005. the brake pedal fades to almost the floor with little pressure on it. I just replaced the master cylinder, bled the entire system, and it STILL fades to the floor. driving, or in park. engine running. 4 wheel disc, 4 wheel abs...
View 5 RepliesSo a few days ago the family and I were on a road trip. After driving for close to three hours we ran into a problem. We were doing about 75, which is about 3000 rpms with the 4.6L, When we dropped from 3k to about 400 and started to lose speed. I pushed the gas peddle all the way to the floor and no response at all. I pulled over and it had a very rough and choppy idle and it wanted to die. It eventually did. I checked all fuses with nothing found and i even hit the fuel pump shutoff reset. It started back up no problem and we got about 5 miles before it the exact same thing. Idle at about 400 rpms and no throttle response at all.
I shut it off and called a tow truck. It started up and they drove it onto the back of the tow truck and off at the local mechanic. They spent 2 whole days trying to diagnose it and even drove it for 4 hours straight, no issues. They pressure checked every system they could and tested every sensor they could. They could not find a single thing wrong with it. I drove it home 3 hours away with no issues. I got home and let it sit for about 10 minutes before I had to leave. I didn't make it more than 2 miles before the same issue popped up. I pulled over. Shut it off for 15 minutes and it started right up and drove home.
It threw 4 codes.
1. Pressure control solenoid malfunction
2. Fuel pump Primary circuit malfunction
3. Gear 3 ratio incorrect
4. Gear 4 Ratio incorrect
I've had 2 mechanics tell me its a PCM issue.
So the other day I slammed on the brakes when traffic came to a halt on the highway. As I slammed down on the pedal, all the sudden the pedal lost pressure and went nearly to the floor, but firmed up just before bottoming out. My brake and ABS lights went on as well. Someone told me there is some kind of failsafe that blocks off the line if it ruptures, so maybe thats what happened? The brakes seem to work fine and are not loosing any more fluid, but the warning lights remain and the taillights do not light up.
So when I got home I took a look. On the fender side under the fuse box there was a lot of brake fluid, and looked like the line going from the master cylinder down to some kind of module (abs thingy?) below it was all rusted.
Today I replaced the line, and bleed the rear brakes. There did appear to be a ponhole in it, right where it would have been spraying the fender side where I saw all the fluid. The pedal is very firm right from the get go and brakes seem to be working fine. However the brake and ABS light remain, and my brake lights still dont come on when I press the pedal. Do I still have a leak somewhere or is there something else I have to do to clear the warnings and get my lights back?
I noticed that the car take a very long time to come to a complete stop and I have to press the pedal hard to stop. The brakes have approximately 11,000 miles on them in city driving conditions. Also the slightest bit I relax my foot, the car begins to creek and move. I have to have a very firm foot on it so it won't move. Is it time for new brakes or should I first begin to look at other potential problems? Also I noticed the car pulls to right slightly could that be related?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford Escape 3.0l V-6. In June while driving to a job interview, my brakes unexpectedly failed. With absolutely no warning, the pedal went straight to the floor. I replaced the master cylinder...problem solved. 5 months later, driving to the gym, after stopping successfully several times with no mushiness in the pedal, at an intersection, the pedal goes straight to the floor...no stopping power.
I can't remember if the brake light came on last time. This time it did. Both times the fluid in the reservoir was full and looked to be relatively clean. Both times there were no apparent leaks in any of the fuel lines, abs module, at the cylinder, etc. I'm no slouch when it comes to car repair. The master cylinder replacement was done correctly, the lines were bled properly.
I have my own theories but I don't like any of them as my car rolls properly at idle, my brakes have not, nor do they currently make any noise or grinding sounds, and the pedal goes all the way to the floor.
1987 F-350 460 Auto Trans. Brake Pedal slowly going to the floor. Stopped at a red light yesterday on a slight down hill and I noticed the brake pedal slowly going to the floor. I had to put the truck in Park to avoid bumping into the car in front of me. I checked brake fluid level and still at the full level, check rims for brake fluid leak from brake cylinder, none. Could my master cylinder need rebuilding or is my vacuum diaphragm going. Not sure that's what its called.
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