I have an 88 New Yorker whose digital amp gauge swings between its lowest and highest setting this makes the audio command center report electrical malfunction service immediately. Shortly after the car dies it will restart after 15 to 30 minutes. It doesn't throw any relevant codes, has had the alternator replaced still no luck.
View 8 RepliesI have 1988 Chrysler Lebaron. It dies after I first start it and now it is doing it any old time. If I tromp on the gas it sputters and keeps going. It is really bad at stop lights, stop signs or slowing down for corners. Also the ac is not cooling. The blower is fine, but no cool air coming from vents.
View 3 Replies2006 Chrysler Sebring Convertible. This car is driving me crazy. Last summer, we drove it from Denver to San Diego. The trip was perfect but within minutes after we arrived the car would not restart. It has been towed to mechanics 5 times and had the starter replaced twice, the battery, pndlr switch each replaced and of course they always find various other things that are needed that don't have anything to do with starting the car. It will work for awhile and then not start again. The last 2 times, we sent it to the mechanic, they jumped it and could not duplicate the situation after several days trying and sent it home. We thought it might be the radio that was installed a few years ago so we removed it, but now the car won't start again.
View 2 RepliesMy 1999 Yukon will start up, run for about 5 minutes at idle then die. Then it will not start again till the next day.
I hooked up a fuel pressure gauge to the fuel line at the fuel filter. It started up, and the pressure gauge went up to 54. I gave it some gas and pressure goes up to about 60 then back to 54 at idle. I sat and watched it for a bit then it died after about 5 minutes and the gauge went below 50 to about 48. I immediately tried to start again and the pressure actually drops a little while cranking to 45 and stayed there.
Whats weird is when I first started it up, I can hear the pump come on and it kicked the pressure up from 0 to 54. Then after dieing, I don't think I can hear the pump come on, and the pressure does not go up at all. I have a feeling tomorrow it will do the same thing, start up after sitting for awhile, then die after 5 minutes.
Does this sound like a fuel pump going bad? or does it sound like an electrical issue with the fuel pump?
My 98 Chrysler sebring has a fast idle at about 1500, occasionally dies but will restart, and has been making the garage smell like gas. Can't seem to figure out the problem.
View 4 Replieswhen car dies driving or idle- will not start for appx 30min after- cranks over immediately like it wants to, but will not actually start for about 30minutes... is this a sensor?
View 5 RepliesI have a '77 Chrysler New Yorker with the 450 engine. I'm told the electronic leaning module is out and apparently unreplaceable: can't find any parts anywhere. The car won't run w/o it. Somebody said I could maybe install some sort of after market carb conversion?
View 1 RepliesI have a 92 (3.3L) New Yorker 5th Avenue that has makes the car jerk badly going uphill and occasionally makes a backfire / misfire noise. It is a general jerking, not localized (right / left front) by feel. It starts ok and runs smoothly at idle but once you put it in drive and start acceleration, it begins to jerk. It has over 200k mi. I have had the fuel filter replaced, new plugs and plug wires put on. Mechanics have ran codes on the engine and transmission and tell me that no bad codes show up.
View 5 RepliesI am looking to purchase a 1993 Chrysler New Yorker and when I test drove it I noticed that every time the brake pedal was pushed a mechanical whirring noise was audible. This happened every time the brake was pushed whether the car was moving or not. The car brakes seemed to work fine and there were no other noises associated with normal brake problems. The noise seemed to come from inside the car. What that might be? Also, any other reasons to not buy a 93 New Yorker with about 115,000 miles on it for cheap?
View 1 RepliesMy 2008 Chrysler Town & Country has, since it was 2 mos. old, had a "no-start" problem. This is not a stalling problem. It happens when the car is off and I try to turn it on. The problem is very sporadic (sometimes several times a day - I do lots of short drives - sometimes several times over the course of a few weeks, then no problems for months). When I turn the key in the ignition, all electrical components come on (dashboard lights, air, radio, etc.) but nothing happens with the engine (it does not make a sound). The dealer has replaced a computer component, the battery, the starter, the electronic keys but the problem always happens again (within a few days of it the "repair"). I usually have to turn the key 3-12 times (sometimes I take it out of the ignition, sometimes I pray!) and eventually the engine starts. Because the problem is sporadic, the dealer has not been able to replicate the problem (though they have, at times, had it for a week or more and even driven it as if it were their own, home at night, to work, to run errands). Although the car eventually starts, it is very problematic when I have to be somewhere and it takes 10 minutes (not to mention a lot of worrying) to get it started.
View 3 RepliesMy 1991 Town & Country will sporadically fail to start. e.g. I start and drive the vehicle,( this may be a short distance or a longer distance) I stop somewhere, I go to start the vehicle and nothing. No amount of tinkering will cause it to once again start. I wait for maybe 10 to 20 minutes and it starts. (Sometimes this can actually take many hours.) Seems to be worse when the weather is very hot. (What I know: There is fuel at the fuel rail. I have used a gauge and the pressure is correct at the fuel rail. There is no power whatsoever at the coil packs yet the Automatic Shutdown Relay is working correctly.) I have replaced the PCM and still the same problem. One time I started the vehicle, drove 200 feet and it stalled out completely. That just happened the one time. Finally, It seems to have gotten more frequent in its stalling behavior.
View 3 RepliesI have '88 Isuzu Trooper that has been sputtering lately. I'll be driving for a while then all of a sudden, it will start sputtering, lose all power and die. When I try to restart it, it will go immediately back to sputtering/dying mode. It's done it 3 times now. The first time, I waited about 20-30 minutes and was able to drive it for 5 minutes before the problem happened again. After waiting ~1 hour it started just fine and drove fine. The car drove fine for a few weeks then the same thing happened.... again, after waiting a few hours, it drove fine. I didn't have the problem again for a year and just happened again last night.
View 5 Replies1999 Montana with V6, engine misses sporadically and sometimes dies after stopping.
The missing first became noticeable as it was shifting into 2nd. We took it to our usual mechanic and the computer indicated the camshaft sensor was questionable so replaced it. Cleared things up for a few days and then it started happening again.
Things progressively got worse so we took it to the dealer. They were able to experience the vehicle behaving this way but they said the computer registered no error codes at all.
We've had the injectors cleaned, replaced the spark plugs and wires, and fuel filter. It starts right up in the morning and runs fine but at temperature begins misbehaving again. Warm days are even worse.
It has continued to get worse, increasing in frequency of miss, duration of miss (sometimes it feels like two or three misses in succession), and even to now it dies when we come to a stop. It starts right up but will often die when we put it in gear again.
I jump started my wife's mini Cooper using my aerostar van 3.0l cargo. Her battery was so dead we had no luck after running my van for 8-10 min. There were a couple of attempts. My van suddenly died when she wasn't cranking the mini. It won't restart.
About one week prior I had a no start situation. I thought I had solved the problem. The first thing I did was listen for fuel pump engagement. I didn't hear it. I pulled the fuel pump relay and cleaned the connections. I put it back and the van started. I drove all week and then I get the call to jump start the mini.
So back to today. Fuel pump is engaging. I checked for spark at #4 cylinder with fuel relay disconnected so as not to flood the engine. I have spark. Battery is strong. I put a new fuel pump relay in place even though it appeared to be working properly. I had my wife crank the engine and the pink/blue wire at the fuel pump relay which goes to the pump lit up my voltage tester. Power appears to be present when cranking and not just initial engagement.
I'm thinking the original no start had nothing to do with the wire connections which I cleaned and it was just coincidence that it started and ran again for a week. The connections are now clean with a new relay attached and not starting. I'm thinking if I have spark and a fuel pump engaging then injectors may not be firing???
When I had 67 miles on my 2013 Chrysler T&C Van it stalled and would not immediately restart. The Electronic Vehicle Information Center revealed both the coolant and engine oil temp was in excess of 300 degrees. After 15 minutes the temps were between 280 and 285. The engine started and I drove slowly the3 miles to my house and had it towed to the dealership the next day. Mechanic found the quick connect coolant line to 3rd seat heater was improperly installed at factory allowing 1 gallon plus of coolant to escape.
A mechanical engineer and a Chrysler mech ( not one from the dealership) advises it is just a matter of time until I have internal engine damage. Chrysler Owner Assistance Dept assigned a case mgr. She reported the van was repaired and operating properly because the coolant line was repaired. Their first offer was 1 months loan payment, which I refused.
My car would start, drive some 35 miles, and after a wait of an hour, wouldn't start again. The battery was replaced and the next day, same problem. The alternator and starter test fine and I am told that the problem is in the "computer" - the security system is telling the auto lockup to occur. The red security light on the dashboard does come on after driving a short distance. I am told the "computer" will cost about $1100. Does this sound like the probable cause and a reasonable cost to repair?
View 6 RepliesWe have replaced crank position sensor, ecm/ coil packs and computer. got good pressure on fuel rail. Starts cold, will run normally for approximately 5 minutes before it dies and will not start.
Sometimes we can hold accelerator to floor and it will "hit" a few licks but promptly dies when accelerator is released. We've checked fuses and relays; what are we missing?
My Grandpa has an 88 Ranger 2wd with the 2.9l V6 and a 5 speed, I believe, M5od. I was driving down the highway when I heard a noise. I tried throwing the tranny in neutral but when I pressed the clutch pedal in, I had no pedal whatsoever. Engine took awhile to restart. It'd turn over a little almost as if a rod was bent or something of the sorts. Eventually the engine started and would stay running as long as the clutch was pressed in (disengaged).
The engine dies no matter what range the transmission is in,neutral included unless the clutch pedal is depressed. It Will die when the clutch is released in any gear with no forward movement that is noticeable. I can spin the tail shaft with the driveshaft installed and all gears in neutral but the input does not spin at all. Input shaft wont spin at all, period. I originally thought the slave cylinder was KIA but now I am very confused on what the problem could be? Is there a bearing the input shaft rides on that may of seized?
I pulled the tranny last night and took the top cover off. Yes, I made sure it was in neutral when I removed the cover. I can manually shift the collar to all gears by hand, 5th and reverse included. I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place here and where to go from here. I have bought a new clutch assembly and slave cylinder. This truck was bought by my Grandpa brand new in 1988. It has 98,000 miles and everything is original. I did forget to mention that there was very little oil in the trans when I drained it and it appeared to be gear oil vs ATF.
I am having with my 2000 Accent GL. It keeps dying while I'm driving it then will not restart. After sitting for awhile it will start but then after a short time dies again. The first thing I did was replace the fuel filter but that did not work. Did a diagnostic scan and it threw a code for the CPS sensor. Replaced THAT and it STILL did not fix it. I reset the computer but it didn't work. The scanner didn't pick up any other codes. Next I checked the relays and they all seem to be fine. Finally, I replaced the fuel filter but the problem did not go away.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1988 Omni, so a 2.2 non-turbo with TBI. Within the first 10 minutes of driving, regardless of the amount of fuel in the tank, the engine will stall out. Throttle position does not matter - it stalls the same way under full throttle as it does idling. It always starts back up on the 2nd or 3rd try immediately after stalling, and runs perfectly. When it stalls, it's as if someone actually shut the ignition switch off - the motor completely shuts off without sputtering or running rough. All of the other electronics seem to be unaffected (for example, the radio and lights still work during the motor drama).
It may do this 3 or 4 times in the course of 5 minutes. After the engine is up to operating temp, the problem disappears entirely and only resurfaces whenever the car has had a chance to cool back off.
I thought it was the coil, but replaced that with no effect. I also recently did plugs and wires (2 months ago, long before this issue surfaces). I just remove the air intake assembly and watched the fuel injector. It ran perfectly normally for about 10 minutes again and then I saw the injector suddenly stop spraying, and the engine stalled instantly. The injector seemed to be working fine before the stall and worked fine again after I restarted. No weird noises or anything.
What this could be? ECU, maybe? Something specific in the throttle body assembly or fuel system? The little car is in great shape otherwise, and I drive it 100 miles every day to work and back to keep miles down on the newer thirstier car.
I got an 88 celica convertible from my neighbor. This is a fixer upper. It needs a battery and an alternator. But i jumped it and after idling for 10 minutes, the temperature Gauge was almost in the red. Yes the radiator has water in it. Is it the thermostat? Or the head gasket?
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