I got an 88 celica convertible from my neighbor. This is a fixer upper. It needs a battery and an alternator. But i jumped it and after idling for 10 minutes, the temperature Gauge was almost in the red. Yes the radiator has water in it. Is it the thermostat? Or the head gasket?
View 2 RepliesTemperature gauge quit working after changing the thermostat and coolant.
With the engine off, I disconnected the single wire from the temperature sending unit and switched on the ignition without starting engine. The gauge pointer stayed in at the Cold mark. Using a Jumper wire, I grounded the sending unit wire and the needle on the gauge went to the Hot mark.
I quickly turned off the ignition, and replaced the sending unit with a SW-2328 (F1SZ-10884-A) Temp Sender. Warmed up the engine, but still no reading on the dash gauge.
I have a '99 1.8T Passat. The coolant temperature gauge normally reaches operating temperature of 190 degrees within about 5 minutes and stays there. For some reason, after reaching 190, it sometimes drops by 20-30 degrees and is running cooler than normal. Once time it dropped down, then came back up again, while driving a steady 65 mph. The coolant level is full and nothing else has changed.
I guess there are a few possibilities: a thermostat stuck open too far, a failing temperature sensor, bad gauge, or loose connection at the sensor. The car has 145K miles and the thermostat and water pump were replaced at about 100K miles. What is going on? If it runs a little too cool, is that a big deal? How would I diagnose it? Where is the temperature sensor?
2007 Honda Odyssey. 105,000. Temperature about 0. 6 hour drive. About 15 minutes from destination, no heat, car starts blowing cold air. Temperature gauge still registers in normal range. Arrive at destination. Later that night, drove about 15 minutes to local ER, and drove back from ER about 2 hours later. No heat, but car otherwise fine. Next day (happened to be Christmas Day), begin drive home. Drive a little more than 15 minutes (about a minute passed the hospital), stopped at a stop light. Car stalls and dies. Restarts, but immediately temperature gauge shoots way paste "H" in a bad way.
Over the next day, local mechanic (in Petoskey MI) checks car, says it is low two gallons of coolant. He says radiator leaks, but he has no radiators there. Everything else works fine, and he says it is safe to drive back to Chicago, as long as I stop to check coolant. Drive home to Chicago, no leakage. Everything works fine. Get home, take car to local Honda dealer. They do "pressure test." Find no leak. Head Gaskets are fine. They see evidence of massive coolant leak (dried coolant all over catalytic converter closest to radiator, and over lower portion of radiator) but find no leak, and coolant level is fine. No sign of any leaks at top of radiator. So, what gives? Car is since running fine, no leaks. Everything works. Still driving in extreme weather in Chicago. Coolant level normal.
I changed the radiator and thermostat, changed the coolant, and my fans work. however, whenever i take the car for a short drive, the temp goes up. I stop the car and shut it off, it steams near th coolant tank. it sounds like its almost boiling..
View 5 RepliesI have a 2002 Caviler. Somewhat recently the car has been not staying at a constant temperature. It will rise above the middle (where it would always just stay at until recently) a notch and then go down a notch below the middle. I have never replaced the thermostat and I have had it around 8 years and the car has around 60,000 miles. Did replacing the thermostat fix them?
View 7 Replies2.2 liter celica would improper placement of thermostat jiggle valve cause water to boil in upper radiator hose and overheat engine and spill water from overflow.
View 10 Replies1988 Celica GT Convertible Heater does not work.
AC works. Fan works.
Heater has an automatic control system.
When I move the control from cold to hot the cable to the heater control valve doesn't move.
Could this be a bad heater circuit breaker? I believe this circuit breaker is on the passenger side right side panel.
2009 Ford Explorer, 6 cyl, 4.0L, 74K. Read code w/scanner - "P0128 - Coolant Temp below thermostat regulating temperature". Assuming this is pretty straight forward but was wondering what the most likely culprit is (?thermostat?). Ironically, this code popped about a week ago, I cleared it and actually got my inspection sticker earlier today and then later in the day, the CEL came on again and once again, the P0128 code. The coolant level is perfect so I know there aren't any leaks.
View 5 RepliesThe key to the trunk lock on my 1988 Celica won't turn. I don't have the original key. Could be that I have the valet key. All other locks (ignition, door and dash door work. I will probably get a replacement from the junkyard if I can find a car with a lock and key. Other trunk locks are interchangeable with the celica???
View 6 RepliesJust about every trip i take my temp gauge pegs and dinger goes off and check gauges lights up in the message center. It eventually will go back to normal or if i shut key off and restart truck it goes to normal. im guessing it is the temperature sensor for the gauge but not sure?? If it is, where is the gauge sensor located?
View 14 RepliesMy 88 celica's manual transmission grinds a little, at times, when going in 3rd gear. I have atf fluid in it now as specified in the manual. Should I replace it with gear oil?
I don't want to damage the transmission or clutch.
When my car sits for a while and i go start it i hear for the first 2 seconds a noise then it goes away until i start it up next time after sitting for a while. It sounds kind of like a diesel.
I pulled the oil pan and checked the bearings they are all fine... to me it sounds like it could be something in the top end because the longer it sits, the oil drains out of the top end and when i start it the oil gets pumped back up to the top and stops the noise....but what is it?
I was thinking of checking the valve caps for intake and exhaust with a feeler gauge to see if there's a gap between the camshaft lobe which would make a noise...but more of a ticking...I am not hearing a ticking though.
I am replacing my leaking power steering pump. I checked the hose connections and it doesn't appear that the leak is coming from there. I have removed the right front wheel and have the car on jack stands. It is really tight under there.
If I remove the cross member under the power steering pump will that allow me to get the old power steering pump out and the new one back in?
Will the removal and reinstall of the cross member affect alignment.
I have a 94 EB AWD I am restoring and have recently picked up an 88 EB to restore as well. The 88 did not run. Here's a list of things done.. New head gaskets, new fuel pump, full tune up, radiator flush n fill, oil change, new transmission and rear seal, new battery, new iac valve, many new lights etc. Well here's where your expertise may come in.. the van starts and runs fine for the first minute or two, but when stopped at red lights the van wants to stall.. and while idling actually has stalled. I was going to replace the MAP sensor as I have found that sometimes causes idling issues. I assume the 88 does not have the MAF sensor to clean/replace? Any other things I could check before heading to the vaccuum lines? Also, both power mirrors are inop, the horn is inop and the gas gauge reads CO. I will check the fuses for those problems..
View 4 RepliesWe have replaced crank position sensor, ecm/ coil packs and computer. got good pressure on fuel rail. Starts cold, will run normally for approximately 5 minutes before it dies and will not start.
Sometimes we can hold accelerator to floor and it will "hit" a few licks but promptly dies when accelerator is released. We've checked fuses and relays; what are we missing?
My 5.8L XL Windsor van is overheating when idling or in traffic but cooling just fine when moving on highways.
The 5 blade-fan comes on as soon as I turn the engine on and the radiator appears to be working just fine, cooling fluid moving and no leaks.
I am a landscaper in NYC and often haul heavy loads through slow moving traffic in the city and would love to drive relaxed and not with my eyes fixed on the temperature gauge awaiting impending disaster.
What is the best course of action?
a) change the clutch and see how it goes...
b) change the clutch, the fan and the water pump
c) install an electric fan
d) drive the van into the east river
Another issue, which has me and my friends puzzled, is that I changed the termostat a while back in an attempt to locate the problem; I replaced the old 195 degrees with a 180. Since the change 8 times out of 10 when I start the van as it is warming up I have to rave the engine for the termostat to open otherwise it does not and I end up with overheating bang. Once it is open no problem beside the overheating while idling.
And one final issue after driving for a while the motor surges when idling at a stop light or in heavy traffic. I have been thinking a bad air sensor but my mechanic or I have not been able to fix this issue for years.
My 88 2.9 ranger keeps heating up badly while idling. Was waiting in the drive-thru at Wendy's and it was taking them longer than usual, the temp guage started climbing closer and closer to 'H'.. I revved it up a bit to a fast idle (1500-2000rpm) and it did not work much... figured the gauge was being screwy. But when i finally got my food and started moving the truck was pinging..it really was hot..
But as soon as I got her moving at a steady 40mph, engine cooled back down to normal temp as if nothing ever happened..i put an extra wide two row aluminum radiator from a 4.0 explorer in it, fan clutch is not very old, no coolant leaks that i can see.. can't figure out why it heats up so much so fast at idle. Not enough air or coolant flow?
I have a 1988 Omni, so a 2.2 non-turbo with TBI. Within the first 10 minutes of driving, regardless of the amount of fuel in the tank, the engine will stall out. Throttle position does not matter - it stalls the same way under full throttle as it does idling. It always starts back up on the 2nd or 3rd try immediately after stalling, and runs perfectly. When it stalls, it's as if someone actually shut the ignition switch off - the motor completely shuts off without sputtering or running rough. All of the other electronics seem to be unaffected (for example, the radio and lights still work during the motor drama).
It may do this 3 or 4 times in the course of 5 minutes. After the engine is up to operating temp, the problem disappears entirely and only resurfaces whenever the car has had a chance to cool back off.
I thought it was the coil, but replaced that with no effect. I also recently did plugs and wires (2 months ago, long before this issue surfaces). I just remove the air intake assembly and watched the fuel injector. It ran perfectly normally for about 10 minutes again and then I saw the injector suddenly stop spraying, and the engine stalled instantly. The injector seemed to be working fine before the stall and worked fine again after I restarted. No weird noises or anything.
What this could be? ECU, maybe? Something specific in the throttle body assembly or fuel system? The little car is in great shape otherwise, and I drive it 100 miles every day to work and back to keep miles down on the newer thirstier car.
I have an 88 New Yorker whose digital amp gauge swings between its lowest and highest setting this makes the audio command center report electrical malfunction service immediately. Shortly after the car dies it will restart after 15 to 30 minutes. It doesn't throw any relevant codes, has had the alternator replaced still no luck.
View 8 RepliesI bought the car maybe months ago and the gas gauge nor the thermostat worked. The fan kicks on just fine never seems like it's over heating and it doesn't lose water or anything like that. For some reason it's a pain in the booty hole to put in gas it stops every 45 cents. When I first got the car the dash lights didn't want to work but kicked in and now they work fine also the AC button doesn't light up or turn on and the dome light also doesn't work.
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