Accent LC (2000-05) :: 2001 1.6 DOHC - Gas Gauge And Thermostat Doesn't Work
Aug 19, 2016
I bought the car maybe months ago and the gas gauge nor the thermostat worked. The fan kicks on just fine never seems like it's over heating and it doesn't lose water or anything like that. For some reason it's a pain in the booty hole to put in gas it stops every 45 cents. When I first got the car the dash lights didn't want to work but kicked in and now they work fine also the AC button doesn't light up or turn on and the dome light also doesn't work.
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My 2001 Accent GS (1.6L DOHC) wouldn't restart after a short 2 mile trip to a local store. The engine cranks fine but doesn't fire.
It has had a CEL issue for awhile and after it wouldn't start I checked the codes and got:
303
335
722
I replaced the Crank Position Sensor and Fuel Filter but it still just turns over.
I hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key on and I broke the fuel line and it is Pressurized, so I doubt it is a fuel issue.
The 722 code indicates the output speed sensor has an issue. Need to know definitively if that sensor is completely shot could this prevent the ECU from firing the engine?
I have had this car since it was brand new and I'd like to keep it going a little longer.
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So the other day i hit something on the road and all of the sudden when im coasting in gear i hear a "thududududududd" noise from mid engine.. you cant hear it when the windows are down, only when they are up and it doesn't happen in neutral or when the clutch is pressed in. also after i shut the car off and turned it back on i had a CEL for the A range vehicle speed sensor which i replaced yesterday but still the speedo doesn't work and the gas gauge is moving around bends. when letting off the gas to shift the car stops almost like hitting the brakes and shifts kind of hard. It also backfires like a shot gun in 4th gear only. I recently had a stage 2 south bend clutch put in but everything was fine after that installation.
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I just picked up a Black 20th tonight. All stock with 48,000 miles. I'll get some pics up asap. But for now I'm gonna be lurking around trying to work out the kinks of the car. The Temp gauge doesn't work and the passenger door only opens from the inside when first unlocked.
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I have a 2013 Accent SE and am having trouble with the trunk release -- it doesn't work. It looks like the part in the trunk may have come loose or something.
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I have a 2008 Accent two door hatchback. The speedometer started jumping and then just quit along with the odometer. The odometer displays the last mileage but doesn't increase. I replaced the speedometer sensor in the side of the transmission and found two of the pins on the connector socket going to that sensor were burnt. I have now replaced the three connector, cable and it still doesn't work. The Hyundai part number for the HMC Extension cable is 43893-23011. So, I have a new cable and new sensor. What next?
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I got me new accent 2011 but my odo doesn't display the computer trip that display the mileage and shift indicator and other stuff only show the km and trip....
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Trnasmission problems? Plug came off lost fluid. transmission doesn't work.
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I have acquired a 4.6l DOHC out of a mid year 85 mustang cobra, would like to install in my 2000 F150 that has a 4.6l sohc, what is available for ECM with the swap?
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Just bought a 01 Accent hatch the other day. It's a 5 speed 4cyl. First gear through 4th have no problems. If I try to shift into 5th gear or reverse, the car doesn't want to go into them. The dealer I got the car from said that the problem is with a pin or something. I have never bought a Hyundai before this, I've had old 70s american cars. I was thinking it could be a shifter linkage but I figured I would ask you knowledgeable people about it first before I go and break something trying to fix something simple (hopefully simple.
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2004 santa fe, 2.7 L engine, temperature control doesn't work, it blows out hot air only. All fuses look good and I tried a new A/C heater control unit with no luck.
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My daughter has a 03 Accent that within the past week will not start at certain times. Some times it will some times it wont. It always cranks but doesn't catch. If she tries to start the car and it cranks, but doesn't catch, if you wait 15 -20 minutes, or longer, it will turn over and run fine. We are thinking crank position sensor or possibly fuel pump...
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About a month ago my 2002 accent started intermittently turning on. The car cranks nice and strong when it doesn't start-(until the battery loses too much power from repeated cranking). When it does start, it happens instantaneous, no issues no hard start.
I have talked to multiple people with varying amounts of automotive experience, who have given many things to try.
Things I've replaced or tested, hoping they were an issue:
-Starter and relay
-Fuel pump and filter, as well as relay for pump.
-Battery, post connectors and wires to starter
-Alternator and belt
-Multimeter tested fuel injectors and ran fuel system cleaner for last 3 fill ups
-Replaced spark plugs and wires
-Ran fuel line antifreeze every 2 tanks or so
Things I've been told might contribute to the intermittent starting, but haven't looked into
-Inconsistent fuel pressure
-water in the fuel tank
-Bad ignition switch
-MAF sensor
I live in area, currently in the icy grip of winter. I thought the cold would be a huge contributing factor, but alas, when the car has fired up the temperature has ranged from 1 to -32 degrees and has no issues starting in the deep cold.
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I don't get it. Usually after I've driven the car, either of the remotes (I've changed batteries on both) do not work. However, if I go into a store and come out 10 minutes later, both remotes will lock, unlock, open the trunk, sound the emergency horn without any problems.
I've even replaced the Keyless Entry Theft Cont Module, which is basically the Remote Entry receiver located in the trunk. I still have the exact same problem with the new receiver.
The remote fobs have new batteries, and one is brand new and programmed with a GM Tech Tool II. The system's receiver is new.
What else could it be. Why does the remote entry only work when the car has been sitting idyll for a while.
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I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew (5.4 V8, 2WD,Auto trans) and recently when we fill the gas tank, the fuel tank doesn't go all the way up to the "full" line. Don't know if this matters but: about a year 1/2 ago in a little town (while on vacation), we broke down and the trouble was the fuel pump. The little town did have a small auto-parts store, and luckily had the fuel pump we needed. Unfortunately we didn't have much as far as tools and we wound up tearing/cutting the filler hose and the vent line.
The little auto store did not have the correct rubber filler & vent hoses for my truck and would take a few days get in stock. We changed out the entire fuel pump and sender unit, and were able to modify some rubber hoses for a new filler & vent line hose. Everything worked great for a year 1/2 but in the last few weeks we have noticed that when we fill the tank, the gas gauge does not go all the way up to the "F" line to show full. With the price of gas, it is important to know exactly how much is really in the tank. Also, is there a battery in the ceiling console for the temperature and compass? Ours just stopped working yesterday.
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My climatronic has been goofy since I bought my 2000 v6 4mo. In the winter my heat never got really hot and now in the summer my A/C work sporadically. I had the thermostat changed along with the full timing belt service. I'm hoping I'll get full heat come september. My A/C, however works less and less often. The tech who did the timing belt change etc. said that there was a lot of pressure at the condenser, but that he thought a flap may have been stuck. he checked those and they are fine. The last two things he said should be checked are the external temp gauge(which is way off, reads 22'F when its like 85 out) or possibly I need a new climatronic head unit.
My questions are esentially these; Does the climatronic use the outside temp gauge to determine cabin temp? Do head units fail often? Are there temp sensors in the cabin other than those built into the climatronic head unit?
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So my 1.6 accent (140,000) decided to no longer start. Just keeps cranking but doesn't ignite. Plugged a scanner in and it's the crankshaft position sensor. How difficult is this to get to? From what I've ready its just held on one end by a 10mm bolt and the older end is just a connector, but it looks like it might be in a pain in the ass location. Does anything need to be taken off first to access? Should this take less than 30 min?
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After every time I jack either the front of the car or the whole car up, the ride is really rough for a few days. The suspension doesn't seem to absorb the bumps, it feels like the body does and it makes for a really rough ride. What would cause this? I can tell you, one of my front struts is so stiff, you can barely compress it when pressing down on that side of the car. but after a few days of driving and taking the bumps, she evens out and rides normal.
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My daughter owns a 2002 Accent GL with auto trans. Over the weekend I worked on the cars front end. It needed new CV shafts,front bearings,a tie rod end, ball joints and front brake pads. I drained the trans fluid to prevent leaks when the shafts were removed and in the process of doing the brakes, I also had to use a tool to compress the puck on the disc brakes to get the new pads in. After everything was put back together and the trans fluid was added to the car, I started it up and went to back it out to test drive. To my dismay, the brakes would not work. I tried using the parking brake to stop ( didn't check it, foolish me) it was pretty loose. It backed into my Baja Bug, crunch. I put it in drive to get it off the bug, it then traveled at low speed heading for my restored 1955 Corvette in the garage. I put it in park, kept going, stomped on the brakes, it kept going until it crunched my Corvette. I was trying to turn it off while this was going on, it took place in a space of 20 feet, so not much time to react.
Pushed it back and put it back in park, started it up again, gave it a minute and all was good. I think the brakes just needed a bit more vacuum to function after the pucks were compressed and maybe the trans did not respond well due to the low fluid level until it was pumping again. Just wanted other users to be aware of what happened to me and to be aware. Runs great now after low speed rampage.
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I am stymied by a weird Cruise Control problem on a 2001 F150 Lariat SuperCrew with 5.4L V8 engine that I just purchased. Long story short, the cruise control does not work. That is, when I push the "On" button at any time while the engine is running (even when traveling at highway speed), the dashboard CRUISE light does not come on.
I ran the cruise control "self check" procedure. The first time I ran it, we failed with 3 flashes. So I checked the cutout switch on the brake master cylinder, and it was indeed leaking brake fluid. So I purchased a new switch and cable (Motorcraft SW-6350 Speed Sensor Switch Repair Kit) and installed them.
With the new cutout switch, we seem to pass the self test. That is, after pressing all the buttons in order , I see all the quick flashes of the CRUISE light
(1. On (flash), 2. Resume (flash) 3. Coast (flash), 4. Set/ accel (flash)). Then the accelerator pedal is pulled away from my foot.
However, unfortunately, the cruise control still does not work. That is, when I push the "On' button at any time while the engine is running (even when traveling at highway speed), the dashboard CRUISE light does not come on. What to look at next? I note that horn works, in case that's useful info.
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2000 Honda Odyssey, Gear indicator light on ther dash works when I start the van, however, when I turn on the headlights, the gear indicator and the gauge illumination lights do not work, when I switch the headlights off the gear indicator light works again. I checked the fuses and replaced them just to check.
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