Ford A/C :: Cooling System Won't Work When Idling - Surges - Thermostat Open After Engine Rave?
Mar 13, 2012
My 5.8L XL Windsor van is overheating when idling or in traffic but cooling just fine when moving on highways.
The 5 blade-fan comes on as soon as I turn the engine on and the radiator appears to be working just fine, cooling fluid moving and no leaks.
I am a landscaper in NYC and often haul heavy loads through slow moving traffic in the city and would love to drive relaxed and not with my eyes fixed on the temperature gauge awaiting impending disaster.
What is the best course of action?
a) change the clutch and see how it goes...
b) change the clutch, the fan and the water pump
c) install an electric fan
d) drive the van into the east river
Another issue, which has me and my friends puzzled, is that I changed the termostat a while back in an attempt to locate the problem; I replaced the old 195 degrees with a 180. Since the change 8 times out of 10 when I start the van as it is warming up I have to rave the engine for the termostat to open otherwise it does not and I end up with overheating bang. Once it is open no problem beside the overheating while idling.
And one final issue after driving for a while the motor surges when idling at a stop light or in heavy traffic. I have been thinking a bad air sensor but my mechanic or I have not been able to fix this issue for years.
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I just bought a 2006 Lexus GS300 AWD. Bought it with 99k from a older gentleman who seemed like he took really care of the car. Gave me all type of Lexus dealership service receipts. I recently noticed that the driver side seat heating and cooling doesn't work right, passenger seat works fine. I haven't checked the fuses yet just wanted to get some opinions before getting into it.
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Turns out I've lost nearly all of the coolant from my secondary cooling system and am trying to diagnose the problem.
Things I noticed:
-All of the hoses appear to be in good condition.
-Coolant is dripping from the center of the engine bay.
-After inspecting the turbo area, it appears the valley below the turbo is wet.
The intake manifold is still on the truck, so I haven't been able to get a better look. Is there anything else near the area I am describing that has coolant? My guess is the turbo water inlet?
Perhaps this : Coolant leak on the 6.7 Powerstroke diesel - YouTube...
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I have appointment to bring my 2006 Passat 2.0T in for service but what might be causing the issues. Car surges when I am idle or beaked at a stoplight. It sort of feels like I was pushing both the break and glass pedal at the same time. When I move I no longer notice it. However when I put the car in park it the RPM's seem to go up to about 10 and back down again.
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If I don't replace it, will it cause any trouble?
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I have an 1980 Ford F-150 with an inline 300. I just installed a new egr valve on. Here is the problem:
After the engine warms up with everything connected, the engine starts to cut out and die while idling. This is due to the VCV opening up and allowing vacuum to the EGR. My question is why is this happening? The EGR is not suppose to open up during idle.
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I'm coming up on my 120K service and will be replacing the spark plugs, PCV valve and I wanted to exchange the engine coolant (SLL pink stuff) for the engine. I replaced that stuff on the inverter side when they replaced the heater at a TBS recall.
I have a haynes manual and have searched on prius chat, but just cannot find specific instructions about this. On my '65 Ford mustang, there was a stop cock that I would just open or I would pull the lower radiator hose. To flush I would just pull the thermostat and run water through the system to clean then refill with antifreeze and water. I think that it will take about 6 quarts so I ave 2 gallons of the SLL pink stuff.
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My cars thermostat runs normal all the time unless I go up hill. I drive into the mountains to work every day. It runs about 80% hot until I crest the mountain and then immediately cools back down to normal. Since its winter no air conditioning running but heat is on at times. Only 37000 miles on car. Automatic transmission.
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I have yet another issue with my lovable Aerostar. This one I just noticed today. The heat doesnt work! Not that its very needed here in Florida, but its still an issue. I tried the heat function out multiple times today and even after driving for a good 20 minutes hot air does NOT come out! Only cool air comes out the vents. Well actually, for a few seconds when I turned the heat on it sort of felt "slightly warmish" but a few seconds later it was cool again. I don't know if this could be related but the temperature gauge is stuck at C (Cold) as its been since I purchased the van about a week ago.
I brought the van to my friend who's a mechanic and he looked under the hood and claims there is no thermostat, the previous owner must have removed it. I found this odd since the vehicle has yet to overheat and I know overheating is sure to happen when the thermostat is missing. Need to confirm if these signs are indeed because of either a broken or missing thermostat? If it is, I have yet another problem. I began looking on eBay for a new thermostat and there's all different kinds! Some say "190 degree" some say "180 degree" and some say other things. Here's a link to a "190 degree":
MOTORCRAFT RT-1152 Thermostat
If I do need a new thermostat, what kind do I need? Here's the exact van I have: 1989 Ford Aerostar XLT V6 with 4 speed auto transmission. Oh and just in case this has anything to do with it, the van has A/C but it's not currently working.
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Bought a mk4 1.8 gti golf last week and day after I got it I filled it up with petrol at Tesco. Since I did that, the engine management light has been on. It hasn't affected the drive or anything so haven't done anything about it yet.
One of the guys at work plugged in his computer thing to it to find out the fault and the code was coming up as 'cooling system malfunction'. He took the fault off so the light no longer comes on but now it makes the most horrendous noise like a grinder or something when the engine is running. I have not driven it anywhere and won't until it has been looked at but just wondered what others thoughts on it might be? Could the noise be something to do with the turbo? Had new cam belt, water pump etc at about 138000/139000 miles (November 2013) and hasn't done more than 10000 since.
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I have a 1999 toyota tacoma 70,000/mi. While idling, at random intervals, truck surges forward. Have to stay on the brake. Cannot drive in winter. Took to Toyota dealer and other mechanics... described problem and that A/C seems to be on all the time. No one has been able to fix. My brother disconnected the A/C and surging has stopped, but I need a better fix that will allow my using AC.
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I got an 88 celica convertible from my neighbor. This is a fixer upper. It needs a battery and an alternator. But i jumped it and after idling for 10 minutes, the temperature Gauge was almost in the red. Yes the radiator has water in it. Is it the thermostat? Or the head gasket?
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I replaced the fan clutch and thermostat on my 1999 5.4. Do I need to "burp" the system or anything?
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I have a 2003 Camry 4 cylinder and the thermostat seems to be stuck partial open. Gauge does not reach what was normal operating level before. Has not thrown P 0128 code yet. I was thinking changing the thermostat. When checking on replacement it shows 2 gaskets, one paper or rubber gasket with holes and an one o ring. Is this correct and if so where does each go when installed. Looking at the housing it does not look to be to hard a job.
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It's pretty cold these day where I live (about 2 weeks of -20C and lower). I know that winter can affect gas mileage but right now, I'm averaging about 13l/km (18mpg). I believe this is not normal.
I just bought the car and I noticed that the engine temp looks low to me (see pic attached). Is it supposed to run this cool? I also went to the garage and he checked with a obd2 scanner and nothing was wrong. Could a stuck thermostat be the cause of my poor gas mileage?
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Two weeks ago a large, industrial truck dropped a piece of bent steel pipe on the interstate in front of my 2010, 50k miles, Prius and (sadly) I was forced to hit or swerve into rush hour traffic and cause an accident. It tore up a good part of the cooling system and did some body damage. Of course I didn't know this at the time, but it began to overheat, so I pulled off the freeway and had it towed to a body shop. After about ten days, I got my Prius back.
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My Phaeton has been running perfect since I got it. Yesterday I took it to the dealership to get fluids topped off and a wash. We have had a break in the weather the last couple of days, so I took my w12 on 465 and got it up to 120 before I chickened out. It continued to ride perfectly. This morning when I went out to start my honey do list the service engine soon light was on, it is still running perfect, but when I stopped by local auto store and had them pull the code it says "thermostat heating control circuit open". My middle temp stays at 200, when sitting still the left temp gauge goes almost to 200 however when driving it falls to under 160.
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Is it possible to use so much coolant system stop leak that you could clog the transmission cooling system?The fluid is burned and seems like I am having problems with gear shifting and power from the transmission. 2003 Olds Silhouette...
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I bought the car maybe months ago and the gas gauge nor the thermostat worked. The fan kicks on just fine never seems like it's over heating and it doesn't lose water or anything like that. For some reason it's a pain in the booty hole to put in gas it stops every 45 cents. When I first got the car the dash lights didn't want to work but kicked in and now they work fine also the AC button doesn't light up or turn on and the dome light also doesn't work.
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I noticed my A/C hasn't been up to par. It's not bad when driving but just ok when idling. So today I changed the orfice tube and the accumulator. Vacuumed the sys. down and charged it up, 2 lbs 10 oz. It is worse! the compressor kicks on and off constantly only cooling to 80 degrees.
I noticed the high goes right up to 350 then the compressor shuts off .... 7 seconds later, back on and up to 350lbs and off again. I think the high-pressure switch is shutting the compressor off before anything goes kaboom but why isn't my fan cooling the condenser down? my FSS shows no increase in fan speed. Sitting at 450.
I think I'm going to cool the condenser down with a hose now to see if that works. If so, That would be telling me the fan isn't doing it's job correct?
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I purchased my 1993 Toyota from someone who modded a bunch of stuff in the engine, including putting in a header, taking out the Catalytic convertor, removing the A/C compressor and moving/rewelding different pipes (including the cooling system pipes).
Anyway, I've noticed that it's heater has never worked, and I just figured I needed to replace the thermostat. In the stock engine, you need to drain the coolant system, and then remove the bottom radiator hose. I did that, and discovered that when he welded the new coolant pipes on, he failed to put in mounts for a thermostat, and there was no thermostat there. Is this fixable at all, or am I stuck without a thermostat (and heating in the winter?)
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