Golf IV / Jetta IV :: Engine Management Light Has Been On - Cooling System Malfunction
Jan 7, 2015
Bought a mk4 1.8 gti golf last week and day after I got it I filled it up with petrol at Tesco. Since I did that, the engine management light has been on. It hasn't affected the drive or anything so haven't done anything about it yet.
One of the guys at work plugged in his computer thing to it to find out the fault and the code was coming up as 'cooling system malfunction'. He took the fault off so the light no longer comes on but now it makes the most horrendous noise like a grinder or something when the engine is running. I have not driven it anywhere and won't until it has been looked at but just wondered what others thoughts on it might be? Could the noise be something to do with the turbo? Had new cam belt, water pump etc at about 138000/139000 miles (November 2013) and hasn't done more than 10000 since.
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So I picked up this 24v vr6 in florida and it has the folowing codes:
p2181 malfunction in cooling system
p0303 misfire in cylinder 3
p0305 misfire in cylinder 5
p0300 random multiple misfires detected
p1570 engine control module disabled
I am thinking the ecu is fried? otherwise why else would that last code pop up. misfire codes im assuming are related to the ecu because theres new COP on each cylinder, newer starter, newer alternator, new spark plugs. Cooling system malfunction im thinking could be the ECT sensor, apparently the water pump was replaced a little while back.
If the ecu is fried can I buy a new one chipped from like APR or do they need the existing ecu and then they modify it?
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So, I seem to have horrible luck with valets. One curbed my wheel a couple weeks ago. The TPMS light came on and all tires were equally underinflated... I thought it was due to a recent cold snap. Well, once I got around to inflating, I noticed the curbed wheel and the sidewall bulging tire. Nonetheless, i tried to reset my TPMS light and there is no button in the glove box. I have a thing that should house a button, but there is nothing behind it. Is this usual?
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The code in question is:
18613 - Performance Malfunction in Cooling System
P2181 - 008 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON
Long story short, there are 5 main reasons this problem can pop up, listed in order of likelihood, least to greatest:
1) Coolant sensor
2) Thermostat
3) Bad fans
4) Coolant mixture
5) Water pump
It's a fun catch-all code that can be thrown from any of those. Given that our cars are approaching the 6 year mark, the coolant sensor & thermostat are the most likely culprits. Most of us up on maintenance have already done the green-top sensor, so it's probably the thermostat. In which case, here is the official changing the thermostat DIY: [URL] .....
If you get this code, first check your fans. They're running? Okay, change your sensor & clear it. If it comes back, change the thermostat. If it still comes back, which has been known to happen, investigate further. [IMG] [URL] .....
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Alrighty. I have replaced everything dealing with my coolant. New water pump, mishi radiator, pusher fans, thermal switch, temp sensor, t stat, t stat housing coolant pipes, also new gasket and o rings. All new coolant pentofrost sf. Today I went to bleed the cooling system and waited til it did not suck any more coolant down, and we're no signs of air bubbles. Today when I drove it a to Walmart it began to over eat quickly. I pulled over and looked ubder the hood. Coolant was dripping out of my 19-21 pounds moroso cap. And my coolant hoses were rock hard.
Although my top radiator hose was very hot and my bottom was not, but closer to the motor it was. Like if there was a blockage but there isn't in the hose that goes to the block on the bottom of my radiator. Even with the air flow and my fans manually turned on when I first started the car it was steal overheating. On my vehicle there is not a reservoir it has been deleted. I have just my hoses and my radiator that's it. I don't know what can be causing this to happen. Also I ran an air pressure test and my head gasket is not leaking. Any clue what could be going on????
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My MIL came on the other night so I brought it to the dealer today for diagnosis.
Per tech, "Found 1 DTC P2181 for cooling system malfunction, checked measuring values, found thermostat sticking open.
Recommendation is to replace thermostat with housing." I have 95K miles on the car, original owner...first time in a long time to have an issue.
The SA indicated the thermostat replacement. The tech indicated the thermostat is in the front of the engine which is hard to access.
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I've recently started popping up a random P2181 performance malfunction in cooling system.
It's so random and shows no signs of any other problems that I'm confused. Temp gets hot, stays exactly where it should be, 200. Never gets a tick hotter, or even close to above 200. Air works, heat works fine. No loss of power. It only seems to come on when I really put my foot down.
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The MIL came on and I scanned for codes. First was P0118, Engine Coolant Temp Circuit High Input. Reset it and then received P1296 -Cooling System Malfunction. Temp gauge needle is positioned where it always is.
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This code came up on my car, what it means or what part needs to be replaced.
008577 - Performance Malfunction in Cooling System
P2181 - 008 - Implausible Signal - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11101000
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 2
Mileage: 84971 km
[Code] .....
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This morning (cold outside) I started my 2011 Golf TDI and the cooling system light started flashing.
The owners manual says to contact my dealer if this happens. I originally thought that it was because the coolant was low, but the manual states that if the coolant is low, the light will be solid.
I scanned the car with my VAG-COM and there were no related faults found.Perhaps my owners manual is wrong and it really is because the coolant was low? (that's how my mk3 was).
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So i got a cooling system performance light and haven't had time to change the sensor out along with the housing... But
Last night i was stopped to see if it was still there after a little driving and it was indeed. So i figured i would try and clear the code to see if that work and it did. I cleared the code and almost instantly with the car still idling, the ticking sound went away.
What could have cause the ticking sounds at all in relation to the cooling system?
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I am getting to check engine codes and I can't figure out what is causing them, one is P1296 cooling system malfunction, the other is P1654 Check DTC Memory of control panel ECU, any clues as to why I'm getting these, I did have a bad thermostat i changed that and it's still on, I also used the new prestone antifreeze for all makes and models, cause I am about 200 miles away from a dealership for g12.
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I've recently rebuilt my toyota celica gt and the engine management light was on , I wiped it and keep getting the same code 52 which I think is the knock sensor car drives terrible under load , idles up and down a little , I've actually replaced the sensor just now and wiped the ecu but as soon as I rev it , bang it's back and I'm getting the same code 52.
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I have a Sonata 2008 model which has done only 40K miles so far. All of a sudden i got the engine management light on and i scanned it in the garage. They are saying the fault is with EGR Valve and it needs to be replaced. They reset it and now the light is not ON.
Could it just be a glitch or is it really a problem with EGR valve. I am really confused on what to do, because when i got a second opinion from a local garage they said there is no need to replace - simply a clean would do....
2 days after the engine light reset, when i took the car off the park i suddenly got a grinding noise from the front of the car and i switched if off and re-started and the noise went away..not sure whether this could be linked with EGR valve or was it a simple gear slip.
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I bought a 2008 Santa Fe last September, since around 2 weeks after I bought it the engine management light has been coming on intermittently. First it then after a few starts it goes off, only to come on again a few days later. Basically dealership hasn't got a clue what's causing it and thus far they've:
Replaced the DPF
Replaced the temp sensors
Replaced injector sleeves
Cleaned the EGR
DPF was changed after they couldn't force regen.
Now, it mainly comes on when I've got cruise control on, although the way I turn it on is bizarre, I have to hold down the on/off and cancel buttons for 10 seconds before it turns on.
Basically I am now running out of solutions as are the dealers, they can't replicate the problem ( although they haven't tried with the cruise)...
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I have a 2008 Sonata Diesel version, and I am getting the engine management light on. All the times i have scanned it, it says - Insufficient air flow to EGR Valve. This gets automatically reset in a day. Now the weird thing - This is happening only if I drive in and around Heathrow airport I have done 100s of miles elsewhere and this problem never occurs. But if I just drive 20 miles to Heathrow, my engine management light always comes on which resets in a day.
I am really confused on what is happening here.
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Upon installing LED interior lights in the dome lighting in my 2003 Jetta GL 5 Speed, my power door locks, power windows, interior lighting, and license plates lights no longer work. I looked at fuse 14 (the fuse associated with interior lighting) and it was not blown. I also tried replacing the LED lights with the lights I had removed while putting in the LEDs, and everything still does not work. Another thing to note is that during installation, the 3 lights in between the drive and passenger seats in the front worked when LEDs were inserted into them. It was not until I replaced the passenger side rear light with an LED that all of these malfunctions started to occur.
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I have a problem with my 2004 Santa Fe, 2l diesel. Will try to keep this short!
When driving it suddenly 'heaves' (not sure how else to describe it), then it cuts out. I wait about a minute and then it restarts.
At first there was no 'heave' but there would be a momentary loss of power (I thought it was the clutch). Then it progressed to the 'heave' and then cut out, this happened now and then. Very quickly it started to do it every time I drove it. My neighbor mechanic blew down the fuel line, said the fuel pump in tank sounded ok, seemed to do it more when below quarter of tank.
So I kept tank topped up, it seemed ok, then on one 11 mile journey it did it 3 times, the last time the engine management light came on, crawled it home, after which it would not start at all. The computer said it was either fuel rail or coolant sensor. Neighbor replaced coolant sensor, it started ok. Tried it next day - 6 miles and it heaved and cut out again. This time no light coming on.
I've read about cam sensor, crank shaft sensor, fuel pump at back of engine...
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Earlier today on a easy drive (not pushing it) I noticed a slight "whistle-sound" that I haven't noticed before. About then it became VERY sluggish and the Engine Management Light started to flash.
As soon as I could I pulled over and connected my AL619 and it says "to low turbo/supercharger flow".
I didn't notice any smoke or smell, just a serious lack of power (i was doing 30km/h at the top of the hill).
Just tried to locate the leak, but I cant feel it or see it. I guess one would need one of those "smoke generators" to see where the pressure goes out.
So, do I have a broken turbo, or just a blown turbo pipe/tube?
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Santa Fe 56 2.2 Diesel ... I am suddenly experiencing the engine management light symbol being illuminated and have severe lack of power I am wondering whether it is Mass air sensor ? blocked fuel filter? or blocked exhaust?
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I have a 2006 Prius with 133k miles.
The other day, I had my Michelin Hydroedge tires (87k) replaced with Michelin Defenders.
The tech brought out one of the rims before removing the old tire and told me that he thought that the tire pressure gauge was broken. He shook it and I could hear it rattling inside.
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