Chrysler - Towncountry :: 1999 - While Turning Left Makes Creaks / Groans Sounds
Jan 28, 2016
1999 Town&Country minivan with 165k
There is a creaking or groaning from the driver's side front when turning left at very low speed, like in a parking lot. When parked, turning the steering wheel in place intermittently causes the same thing but only when the wheel is turning to the left. No noise when coming back to center or going to the right.
Noise is definitely not a clunk or pop or squeal. No difference in handling at normal driving speeds.
Jacked up front driver's side tire and tried push/pull at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock positions. Nothing strange, even with enough force to be concerned with jack support only. Pulled the tire and checked out tie rod end and tie rod. Pushing and pulling saw no movement. Grabbed swaybar link and push/pull, all solid. No leaks or worn boots on any of them. Checked PS fluid--fine.
Should I suspect lower control arm ball joint? Is noise consistent? Maybe it needs grease? Unfortunately, car is far from home, so the biggest question is whether it is safe to drive hundreds of miles before sorting it out.
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My 2008 rear suspension creaks and squeaks and groans when I move my horse trailer. Truck has 32k miles, has done since purchase last year, squirted wd 40 and that works. At ford place now, they say it is because I added the ride rite air bags. Told them it made same sound before I installed. What to tell them (tech service bulletins ?) or give up and keep spraying and looking for dry joint?
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Two fixes: When raising the roof, stop it halfway. It reveals a round rubber bump stop that sits against the rear parcel shelf. The bumpstop can be adjusted by rotating it. If you raise the bump stop, it sits harder against the parcel shelf and reduces movement, thereby reducing noises. Also, lubricate all roof and boot (trunk) rubbers with glycerine (glycerol).
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On left turns, even just slight left turn, but mostly when weather is humid, I get a loud squeal that sounds exactly like squealing brakes, except I am not applying brakes. May not be relevant, but this is a minivan modified for wheelchair access via a ramp that comes out on the passenger side.
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First off my trucks a 2000 v10 f250 with four-wheel drive and 2 wheel abs with about 230000 miles on it.
I Recently replaced my unit bearing on my drivers side because I thought it was the cause of a grinding that only happens on hard left turns but I wasnt the cause it was going bad causing play in the half shaft. I didnt seem to notice and wear on the shaft from bad needle bearings but I have to take it all apart again to be sure. Was just wondering what else could be the cause of this noise. I plan to pull the axel shaft and change all the seals.
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have a 1999 town and country that wont start from time to time. some times it starts right up and starts right up for months.some times starts and then go to start it again it just won't start . dosent even make a sound. all the lights and radio etc. working, and its been to numerous times to the repair shop. each time at the repair shop it starts right up and when they put it on the diagnostic computer , the diagnostics says nothing is wrong.
it's a brand new battery, and when we took the battery to the auto parts store they checked it and said the battery is charging and then discharging in a cycle.just got back from the chrysler dealer repair and they put the diagnostic computure on it and it says nothing is wrong.
i live in tucson, az and when the temp is 105F outside and i buy ice and frozen things is when the town and country decides it dosent wanta start
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I have a 1999 Town and Country van, 3.8L engine. It has 220K miles on it. Lately, when I am accelerating, it seems to do fine until I get to 40-55 mph. In that range, it stutters a bit. After that it runs fine, even at higher speeds. I usually don't get this stuttering at the lower speeds as I am, for example, accelerating to get on a highway. A mechanic friend of mine says that it may be a vac leak. Does this sound right, or are there other possibilities.
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I have a 99 Town & Country that occasionally has a starting problem that has stumped my otherwise excellent mechanic. Every once in awhile when I start my van it kills right away. Even if I rev the engine with the gas pedal it kills immediately. It will do that 3-5 times, then when I turn the key nothing will happen, no click no dash lights, nothing. Often if I let it sit at that point for a few hours it will start and run fine.
The alternator was changed two years ago in an attempt to fix this problem and the starter was just replaced a few months ago.
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I am having problems with the acceleration. when I let off the accelerator it hovers around 2000 rpm and then it takes awhile to come down. I checked the throttle cable and it seems free and the springs are on the throttle body.
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While driving idle seemed to increase. Noticed at red lite where van seemed to want to move forward with brakes applied. Went to parking lot put van in park engine RPM rose to around 2500 RPM on it's own. Opened hood and fiddled around with a wire???/hose thing near the throttle control line (wire that connects foot piece to engine). A bunch of black powder (carbon?) fell out. Turned the van off then back on a couple of times. On the third time idle returned to normal and has operated normal since. What caused this? What do I tell my mechanic? What was the wire/tube thing (it entered what I assume is the air intake at a right angle) right in front of where the wire from the foot control hooks up.
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I had this problem before on my 2009 RX350 and took it to the dealer - they were stumped at first but eventually figured out it was the spare tire making noise every time I made a turn into a driveway or went over a little hill/bump.
They did something to adjust it or tighten it and the jack etc. and it went away. Now the sound is back, big time. How to adjust the spare to get rid of this. Also if there's a hack to pad or insulate the spare that would be great.
I also found another thread on a similar thing but it's talking about struts, shocks and trailing arms on 3rd generations. [URL] ....
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On my xl-7 upon turning left it makes a poppping noise, its real bad at complete stops,its almost like a cv axle noise. Ive taken it to the dealer at least 8 times and they replaced struts , but it still makes this noise.I also called the main Suzuki customer office and complained. They told me its just one of the characteristics of the new Xl7.
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Recently had this problem which started up about a week ago where my car would make this clicking noise whenever I turn left while driving. When I turn to the right there is no noise. Some said that it could be that CV joints need to be replaced. I have a video showing the side that is making the sound, maybe there is something abnormal that I don't see.
[URL]
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My Town & Country 07 shudders (best word I can use to describe the sensation) between 40-42 MPH. First repair place convinced me I need tie rods, did not resolve problem. Next place said I need struts and new tires but the problem is not solved. Why the van would do this shudder, rumble, whatever - but only at 40? If I rapidly accelerate, like getting on the highway, it doesn't happen.
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When I had 67 miles on my 2013 Chrysler T&C Van it stalled and would not immediately restart. The Electronic Vehicle Information Center revealed both the coolant and engine oil temp was in excess of 300 degrees. After 15 minutes the temps were between 280 and 285. The engine started and I drove slowly the3 miles to my house and had it towed to the dealership the next day. Mechanic found the quick connect coolant line to 3rd seat heater was improperly installed at factory allowing 1 gallon plus of coolant to escape.
A mechanical engineer and a Chrysler mech ( not one from the dealership) advises it is just a matter of time until I have internal engine damage. Chrysler Owner Assistance Dept assigned a case mgr. She reported the van was repaired and operating properly because the coolant line was repaired. Their first offer was 1 months loan payment, which I refused.
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I have a 2001 Chrysler Town and Country w/ 3.8L engine and 196,000 miles. Several years ago the transmission was rebuilt. Since then the speedometer was off 1-2 mph at 65 mph. I recently bought new tires and now the speedometer is off 2-3 mph at 65 mph. My question is: How do you calibrate the speedometer? I know all about the reset for a bouncing/stuck needle. That does not calibrate the scale. I've read about gear replacement and found the Hyper-Tech calibration programmer (which is not available for the 2001 T&C).
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My 2008 Chrysler Town & Country has, since it was 2 mos. old, had a "no-start" problem. This is not a stalling problem. It happens when the car is off and I try to turn it on. The problem is very sporadic (sometimes several times a day - I do lots of short drives - sometimes several times over the course of a few weeks, then no problems for months). When I turn the key in the ignition, all electrical components come on (dashboard lights, air, radio, etc.) but nothing happens with the engine (it does not make a sound). The dealer has replaced a computer component, the battery, the starter, the electronic keys but the problem always happens again (within a few days of it the "repair"). I usually have to turn the key 3-12 times (sometimes I take it out of the ignition, sometimes I pray!) and eventually the engine starts. Because the problem is sporadic, the dealer has not been able to replicate the problem (though they have, at times, had it for a week or more and even driven it as if it were their own, home at night, to work, to run errands). Although the car eventually starts, it is very problematic when I have to be somewhere and it takes 10 minutes (not to mention a lot of worrying) to get it started.
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my daughter has a 2005 Chrysler minivan -- v 6 automatic -- the transmission will not lock in park -- it free wheels -- only stops moving when emergency break is applied --the wheels will move separately -- will not move the other wheel when in park -- if picked up one wheel -- and in park -- it still moves -- there is a gear that is rubbing the cover in back of transmission -- the upper gear iseems loose -- and wobbly -- is there a simple repair there
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This car has 145K and transmission was replaced 3 years ago with used one that had 75K at 105K. Since replacement 3 yrs ago it runs great in the winter, when cold and no humidity, and runs extremely bad when it is warm and humid. This summer was hot with no humidity (in Kansas) and ran great. Now with fall and humidity back it is acting up again. The rpm's will show a jump up and down (300-500 rpm) while driving at 55mph or slower and do the same while at a stop light. At 70-75 the rpm's do not change but you can sure feel it at 55mph not looking at the rpm's move. The dealership has put it on the computer and it shows nothing. It clunks and thuds when driving slowly and sounds hard on the vehicle.
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I have A 2012 Chrysler T&C purchased new Sept. 2012. At times heat comes from one side and cold from the other. Varies which side is cold or hot. Had problem from start and Chrysler said was working on solution. Had back to dealer many times with no fix. Warm weather came, no problem. Cold weather now here and same problem. Chrysler's fix was turn heat control all the way up then back down.
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After driving I place car in Park, try to turn key to off. Will only go to Accessory position. Suggestions have been shifter, wheel lock. Dealer said they need to replace the shifter. Re-shifting into park does not work, turning wheel does not work. Have discovered that if I turn the key to the accessory position, wait & listen, I hear a distinct CLICK (like the sound an old solenoid would have made) and the key will go to off and can be removed. Early in the morning this can take 20 seconds. Later in the day some unknown number of minutes. Luckily I can leave the car with the key in it without fear of someone taking the car. I have even recorded the sound and have attached the sound file here It happens about 13 seconds in.
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