On left turns, even just slight left turn, but mostly when weather is humid, I get a loud squeal that sounds exactly like squealing brakes, except I am not applying brakes. May not be relevant, but this is a minivan modified for wheelchair access via a ramp that comes out on the passenger side.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2010 Honda Civic with about 32K miles on it. Last fall, at around 23K miles, I needed new brake pads and rotors (because I waited too long on the pads). Got those replaced. A few weeks later (I think), it started making a kind of squealing noise when I make left turns. I mentioned it to my mechanic when I took it in for an oil change shortly thereafter, and he said it was probably the belt, but I could wait a bit on replacing it if I wanted to (as he knows I'm always broke).
Three weeks ago, I took the car in for another oil change and to have him change the belt. He put in a new belt, but alas, after driving the car about a mile the noise returned. I called my mechanic, and he said it might be my tensioner, but that such a new tensioner shouldn't need replacing already and that it would still be under warranty. I needed to take it to the dealer anyway because my window mechanism was broken, so while I was there, I had him check out the tensioner. He also said the tensioner was fine, and said that since the belt wasn't a HONDA belt (naturally), that might be making the noise. Last week, I took the car back to the mechanic, who ordered and installed a Honda factory belt free of charge.
Naturally, a mile later, the noise returned. I resisted every urge to drive into oncoming traffic. I used my phone to record the sound so that I could e-mail it to the dealer and my mechanic, give it a listen: [URL] ....
My 96 Town and Country won't start. It turns over and fires for about 1-2 seconds max. After that it only turns over, no fire. The key sign/symptom is that the odometer and PRNL do not light up. This is very sporadic. Sometimes months and months apart. I unhook the battery in an effort to reset the computer. Sometimes it works in 1/2 hr. Sometimes several hours. So I don't think it resets but I still do it anyway. I have replaced the computer but no luck. Could it somehow be the dash cluster?
View 8 RepliesI am about an hour and a half from home at my cousins when my oil light came on. It only comes on when I have come to a complete stop. Once I accelerate it goes away. I checked the dipstick and it is full. Here is my question: what do you think this could be and would it be safe to drive home to my trusted mechanic. The car has 160,000 miles on it.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2005 Chrysler Town & Country base model with just over 70,000 miles.
My steering wheel/column "squeaks" when making left or right turns. The noise sounds like it is coming from inside the cabin, just behind the airbag/horn. It does not sound like a typical power steering problem. The sound is more noticeable when I make left turns and when I am driving slowly, like when I am turning the wheel of the car to get out of a parking space. The noise is definitely worse in colder weather.
I had the inner tie rods replaced three months ago, but I think the creaking sound pre-dates that work. Are there bearings or joints that might need lubrication. Something else?
1999 Town&Country minivan with 165k
There is a creaking or groaning from the driver's side front when turning left at very low speed, like in a parking lot. When parked, turning the steering wheel in place intermittently causes the same thing but only when the wheel is turning to the left. No noise when coming back to center or going to the right.
Noise is definitely not a clunk or pop or squeal. No difference in handling at normal driving speeds.
Jacked up front driver's side tire and tried push/pull at 3, 6, 9, and 12 o'clock positions. Nothing strange, even with enough force to be concerned with jack support only. Pulled the tire and checked out tie rod end and tie rod. Pushing and pulling saw no movement. Grabbed swaybar link and push/pull, all solid. No leaks or worn boots on any of them. Checked PS fluid--fine.
Should I suspect lower control arm ball joint? Is noise consistent? Maybe it needs grease? Unfortunately, car is far from home, so the biggest question is whether it is safe to drive hundreds of miles before sorting it out.
While driving idle seemed to increase. Noticed at red lite where van seemed to want to move forward with brakes applied. Went to parking lot put van in park engine RPM rose to around 2500 RPM on it's own. Opened hood and fiddled around with a wire???/hose thing near the throttle control line (wire that connects foot piece to engine). A bunch of black powder (carbon?) fell out. Turned the van off then back on a couple of times. On the third time idle returned to normal and has operated normal since. What caused this? What do I tell my mechanic? What was the wire/tube thing (it entered what I assume is the air intake at a right angle) right in front of where the wire from the foot control hooks up.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Town and Country. When it is raining and after I have gone 20 minutes or so driving and then come to a stop it makes a loud noise from the passenger side, sometimes the front most times the rear. It is a rattling metallic sound It sounds like a motorcycle engine sound. It continues for a few minutes and then stops. There seems to be a burning smell with it too.
View 4 Replies07 Chrysler Town & Country with 86K. It's been happening off and on for about a year now. On long highway trips when I'm driving fast (maybe more when it's cold), a whirring noise will build up. It starts quiet and can get really loud. When I get off the highway, the engine noise goes down and the whirring noise is really obvious. I take my foot off the accelerator and the whirring noise continues for about 10 seconds. When I hit the gas again (this time at city speeds, 30 mph or so), the whirring noise instantly comes back and can get high pitched and LOUD, almost like an old police siren.
Last time it happened, I popped the hood to track down the source. It seemed to be coming from the engine block. When you're looking down at it, it's coming from the left side, directly under the drive belt (but not the belt).
2007 Chrysler Town & Country, 72k. It's happened twice now. On long interstate trips, over 50 miles, the engine starts to make a loud whirring/humming sound. The temp and RPM gauge looks fine. The first time it happened, I checked the dipstick and it was very low (I was overdue for an oil change). I topped it off and it went away for a few weeks but then it came back, after about 100 miles running it 75 mph or so. Then the oil was fine. Pulled off and let it cool for 30 minutes and it was fine but I drove slower. It seems to come on while I'm on the interstate and the engine noise covers it until I get off and then it's very loud. Maybe it seems to get louder when I take my foot off the gas.
View 4 RepliesMy Town & Country 07 shudders (best word I can use to describe the sensation) between 40-42 MPH. First repair place convinced me I need tie rods, did not resolve problem. Next place said I need struts and new tires but the problem is not solved. Why the van would do this shudder, rumble, whatever - but only at 40? If I rapidly accelerate, like getting on the highway, it doesn't happen.
View 3 RepliesWhen I had 67 miles on my 2013 Chrysler T&C Van it stalled and would not immediately restart. The Electronic Vehicle Information Center revealed both the coolant and engine oil temp was in excess of 300 degrees. After 15 minutes the temps were between 280 and 285. The engine started and I drove slowly the3 miles to my house and had it towed to the dealership the next day. Mechanic found the quick connect coolant line to 3rd seat heater was improperly installed at factory allowing 1 gallon plus of coolant to escape.
A mechanical engineer and a Chrysler mech ( not one from the dealership) advises it is just a matter of time until I have internal engine damage. Chrysler Owner Assistance Dept assigned a case mgr. She reported the van was repaired and operating properly because the coolant line was repaired. Their first offer was 1 months loan payment, which I refused.
I have a 2001 Chrysler Town and Country w/ 3.8L engine and 196,000 miles. Several years ago the transmission was rebuilt. Since then the speedometer was off 1-2 mph at 65 mph. I recently bought new tires and now the speedometer is off 2-3 mph at 65 mph. My question is: How do you calibrate the speedometer? I know all about the reset for a bouncing/stuck needle. That does not calibrate the scale. I've read about gear replacement and found the Hyper-Tech calibration programmer (which is not available for the 2001 T&C).
View 5 RepliesMy 2008 Chrysler Town & Country has, since it was 2 mos. old, had a "no-start" problem. This is not a stalling problem. It happens when the car is off and I try to turn it on. The problem is very sporadic (sometimes several times a day - I do lots of short drives - sometimes several times over the course of a few weeks, then no problems for months). When I turn the key in the ignition, all electrical components come on (dashboard lights, air, radio, etc.) but nothing happens with the engine (it does not make a sound). The dealer has replaced a computer component, the battery, the starter, the electronic keys but the problem always happens again (within a few days of it the "repair"). I usually have to turn the key 3-12 times (sometimes I take it out of the ignition, sometimes I pray!) and eventually the engine starts. Because the problem is sporadic, the dealer has not been able to replicate the problem (though they have, at times, had it for a week or more and even driven it as if it were their own, home at night, to work, to run errands). Although the car eventually starts, it is very problematic when I have to be somewhere and it takes 10 minutes (not to mention a lot of worrying) to get it started.
View 3 Repliesmy daughter has a 2005 Chrysler minivan -- v 6 automatic -- the transmission will not lock in park -- it free wheels -- only stops moving when emergency break is applied --the wheels will move separately -- will not move the other wheel when in park -- if picked up one wheel -- and in park -- it still moves -- there is a gear that is rubbing the cover in back of transmission -- the upper gear iseems loose -- and wobbly -- is there a simple repair there
View 1 RepliesThis car has 145K and transmission was replaced 3 years ago with used one that had 75K at 105K. Since replacement 3 yrs ago it runs great in the winter, when cold and no humidity, and runs extremely bad when it is warm and humid. This summer was hot with no humidity (in Kansas) and ran great. Now with fall and humidity back it is acting up again. The rpm's will show a jump up and down (300-500 rpm) while driving at 55mph or slower and do the same while at a stop light. At 70-75 the rpm's do not change but you can sure feel it at 55mph not looking at the rpm's move. The dealership has put it on the computer and it shows nothing. It clunks and thuds when driving slowly and sounds hard on the vehicle.
View 5 Replieshave a 1999 town and country that wont start from time to time. some times it starts right up and starts right up for months.some times starts and then go to start it again it just won't start . dosent even make a sound. all the lights and radio etc. working, and its been to numerous times to the repair shop. each time at the repair shop it starts right up and when they put it on the diagnostic computer , the diagnostics says nothing is wrong.
it's a brand new battery, and when we took the battery to the auto parts store they checked it and said the battery is charging and then discharging in a cycle.just got back from the chrysler dealer repair and they put the diagnostic computure on it and it says nothing is wrong.
i live in tucson, az and when the temp is 105F outside and i buy ice and frozen things is when the town and country decides it dosent wanta start
I have A 2012 Chrysler T&C purchased new Sept. 2012. At times heat comes from one side and cold from the other. Varies which side is cold or hot. Had problem from start and Chrysler said was working on solution. Had back to dealer many times with no fix. Warm weather came, no problem. Cold weather now here and same problem. Chrysler's fix was turn heat control all the way up then back down.
View 3 RepliesI have a 1999 Town and Country van, 3.8L engine. It has 220K miles on it. Lately, when I am accelerating, it seems to do fine until I get to 40-55 mph. In that range, it stutters a bit. After that it runs fine, even at higher speeds. I usually don't get this stuttering at the lower speeds as I am, for example, accelerating to get on a highway. A mechanic friend of mine says that it may be a vac leak. Does this sound right, or are there other possibilities.
View 3 RepliesAfter driving I place car in Park, try to turn key to off. Will only go to Accessory position. Suggestions have been shifter, wheel lock. Dealer said they need to replace the shifter. Re-shifting into park does not work, turning wheel does not work. Have discovered that if I turn the key to the accessory position, wait & listen, I hear a distinct CLICK (like the sound an old solenoid would have made) and the key will go to off and can be removed. Early in the morning this can take 20 seconds. Later in the day some unknown number of minutes. Luckily I can leave the car with the key in it without fear of someone taking the car. I have even recorded the sound and have attached the sound file here It happens about 13 seconds in.
View 6 RepliesIt stalls when approaching intersections, and sometimes in traffic, always can be restarted, have had battery changed, fuel system checks out. have left at the garage and they can never get it to stall, but it still does it and sometimes three or four times during the day. Have not been to dealer, am frustrated and afraid of getting in accident. What might be causing this?
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