My 91 corolla likes to lurch and misfire. Also there seems to be a slight loss of power to the engine. Clutch isn't slipping. What's going on? friend said it might be the distributor.
View 3 RepliesMy brother's 87 ford ranger 2.3L truck began to have problems. It would be running great, then start to misfire, run rough, sputter, shake and loose accelleration then die. Then it wouldn't start back up for a long time, sometimes til the next day. Little by little, the truck would drive a shorter and shorter distance between breakdowns. He first tried some minor work himself, (basic tune up) - replaced his rotor, cap, plugs, air filter, fuel filter, but that didn't fix it. He went to one garage (big mistake), who said the fuel pump pressure was fine but said he found a broken wire on the harness grounding out and it needed new ignition module and replaced it. (Cost was $350.00+), Garage promised to honor any additional work nec if it continued to have the same problem, and would be free of charge.
Five more breakdowns later and two more "better quality ignition modules", new battery terminals, and 1 new computer later, this joker did more unauthorized work and demanded another $200+ besides the fact of breaking his orig agreement "free of charge" if any further problems! Needless to say, second garage fixed the truck by replacing the magnetic pickup, part # DU 30-C (an electrical part that goes in the distributor and pulsates a current to operate the timing) (it does something like that) and the truck has been driven approximately 40-60 miles as of today, (3 days later), without breaking down. All the other times when picked up from incompetent garage, it wouldn't go more than 1 - 7 miles before breaking down and each time they didn't fix it.
I have a 2004 Ford F250 with 174,000 miles the truck has a slight miss a rough idle one hot or pulling I have 2 codes nut no light when I go into the ford oem feature in my scanner a PO 272 and a PO404 .. Where to start?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 Kia Sedona mini van with about 148,000 miles on teh 6 cylinder engine. Since about the first of the year I have noticed a slight loss of engine oil over the past 4 months. It appears to be maybe about a quarter of a quart for about every 1000 miles or so. Up until then I had no issue with loss of oil. It is not leaking out that I can see as there are no drip signs on the underneath or ground, I have had no loss of antifreeze so am not sure how or where the oil might be going. My dad said that as some engines age and with this engine being now almost 11 years old with that many miles it wouldn't be out of line that the engine is "burning" the oil. Not sure what he means by that, but what might be a reason/s for the slight loss of oil.
View 8 RepliesEver since I took my 18" wheels off for the winter and put the stock VW 16's with snow tires I have on multiple occasions almost rear ended the car in front of me when I experienced what seemed like a loss of brake pressure. The brake pedal did not feel spongy or anything but often in this situation the abs brakes seem to kick in for no reason. I feel a slight pulsation in the brake pedal which I can only assume is an activation of abs. I'm wondering if this slight pulsation (1 second duration ) is causing my brakes to be less effective. The pavement has been completely dry and I was not traveling fast enough, nor pressing the brakes hard enough to cause the tires to lock and trip the abs.
View 4 RepliesI have a misfire in the 6 cylinder on my 98 Chevy c1500 5.7l 350 v8 2wd. I changed the spark plugs and wires, cap and rotor, and changed the spider injector i put the spider injector in from another engine I had. After doing all this the code still comes up. The truck runs fine and except it idles slight rough not bad at all and now it says I have a vacuum leak and while I'm driving you can feel the loss of power. I tried all the ways to do it like on YouTube. What is wrong with my truck?
View 10 RepliesMy 07 2.0T (101k mi.) Passat idles roughly when in the drive position (at a stop light, or sign, etc.), the engine sounds "gruffy", and suffers from a slight loss of power with horrible gas milage. I've had spark plugs and the coil pack replaced two weeks ago, and still can't seem to find the source. There are no misfire codes or any others showing up. From reading many posts here, I've found that a common issue is carbon build up for similar symptoms of my car. Do I need fuel injector cleaner, and or valve stem cleaner, etc? As far as the possibility of cleaning out the intake valve, I only open the hood to add oil, washer fluid, check my oil, and wipe down the engine.
View 5 RepliesI have an '87 Toyota Corolla, automatic transmission, 4 door sedan with 80,000 miles on her. Recently have experienced a power and mpg loss. Top speed going uphill (30% grade) is 35. Recent repairs include replacing the timing belt, fuel/water pumps, flush cooling/transmission systems, and tune up to no avail!!! So what’s left? Could it be the catalytic converter? I do live in the mountains at 9,000 ft.
View 5 RepliesI've had a 1991 buick skylark for 3 years, just hit 100,000 miles, and for the past few months i've been having problems with it stalling out/misfiring when I press the gas, almost like a lawnmower running out of gas, and then catch and go fine. it was only happening at the 3rd gear change,(randomly but only at that change), and then it started happening only at the 2nd gear change. it first happened at the end of a long road trip, and the speedometer and odometer stopped working at the same as well, but have since returned. but now it's been happening on cross town trips.
Every time it has happened has been random, and it always corrected itself and was fine. but this last time, it was doing it consistently, at random gear changes and from idle. it finally gave out at a stop sign and it barely stuttered across the intersection, but with the check engine light on and never "catching on" or actually dying/cutting off. I took it to my local shop, and they ran all the computer test and road tested it and told me they couldn't find anything wrong. they tested the fuel pump, which had good pressure. They mentioned it might be the module, but were honest and didn't want to charge me for something they couldn't tell was actually wrong. any clue?
When I accelerate to merge onto the highway or pass my battery light blinks as well as my headlight flickering and a slight loss in power. My car has 140k miles on it, original battery which seems to test fine on my charger. I just change the spark plugs.
View 9 RepliesHad this truck a few years now, and it has always had a slight miss/hesitation and maybe a few codes. The timing chain skipped a tooth and the truck was down for about a year. I have 4 other trucks, so it wasn't a big deal. I finally had time to put a new oil pump, chains, guides, tensioners, phasers etc. The truck actually runs very well and quiet. But, now misses far more than I remember it doing.
When driving in town constant at 25-30 mph occasionally it will loose power for a brief moment(<1 second) and then be fine, the security light on the dash turns on for a few seconds. It drives at 55-65 just fine, unless I am going up a hill or something else increasing the load.
2004 5.4 3v 2wd
CEL-
P0453 (fuel tank pressure issue)
P0351 (ignition coil a primary/secondary circuit malfunction)
P0356 (ignition coil f primary/secondary circuit malfunction)
The coil packs are new, and I have injectors on order. Also found this thing on the back of the motor, it connects to the fuel rail on the drivers side. Where it should go. I looked on my other trucks. But my other 04-4wd has a box by the battery it connects to, but mine doesn't have any of that stuff. And my 08 doesn't have anything like this at all.
And a pix of the truck in question.
I have a 2005 Corolla LE 5-speed with 101,xxx. I have owned it a year and last fall noticed that when it got cold and first started it up the car would idle hunt. While getting some warranty work done I brought it up to the dealership and they said the throttle body was dirty and they would clean it for 100. I found a local garage that will clean it for fifty. I think my new problem may be related.
I have noticed during the past week or so when I am in 3rd and 4th, haven't noticed in 5th yet, gear when I get around 3,000rpm and I punch it just a little bit lets say to pass someone I initially lose power before the car goes. It feels almost like an automatic that has a transmission slipping but it's a stick and it does not occur while changing gears. It is very brief. I lean into the pedal a bit and then the car loses power just a bit and then peps up and goes.
I am wondering if this may be related to the throttle positioning sensor having crud on it. There is also no check engine light on.
This last April I was towing my trailer back from camping approx 125 miles when I detected a loss of power and a slight miss. I managed to make it home. It wasn't until I made it home that the engine finally started coding. Miss on start, a couple of cylinders missing and output shaft speed sensor circuit failure. So naturally, I decided to do what I felt needed done anyways, change all coils and plugs. Oddly the problem got worse to the point where I almost didn't make it home after test driving it, it kept stalling out and was difficult to keep running.
After some research and advice from others, I started replacing some components; MAF sensor,IAC valve, output shaft speed sensor. Nothing. In fact now the truck wont move, I start it up it idles a little rough, but then I put it into gear and with in seconds she shuts her self down. I've replaced the fuel filter, checked the fuel pressure and it is in specs. I've now had it towed to two mechanics neither of which have any solution. They've put expensive computers up to it and still nothing. I really do not know what to do at this point. Lastly the only code that continues to come up is P0720, output shaft speed sensor circuit failure, I really miss my truck!
Ok I got a 1995 toyota corolla 1.8l dx .... So this is my back up car I went out started it up let it set and warm up and took it around the yard to run it a little well it ran fine then all of a sudden it lost all it's power well I finaly got it back to the drive that was only 50ft away took almost 30mins just to get it there. I cut it off let it sit started it back up and still no power well now it won't even start it has new plugs.. Wires.. Cap button.
View 17 RepliesI recently bought an 87 Toyota corolla fx 16 as I totaled out my other car hitting a deer when I test drove this car I had no issues on this car it had high miles at 197k but it seemed to purr like a kitten it wasn't until I started to drive it back and forth to work that I noticed the issue when the car is cold it runs and idles fine a little bit of shift hesitation but figured that might be a dirty transmission filter as the fluid appeared discolored however when the car warms up it shifts fine and begins to cut out and the Rpms dip under 1k every 20-30 seconds.
It becomes worse when the car is in gear driving down the road it randomly cuts out and seems to lose power while occasionally backfiring and if I come to a stop and leave it in gear it will die if I don't feather the throttle just right on takeoff or press it to the floor when I press it to the floor it's slow on take off and sounds like a mix of backfiring and missing and then suddenly takes off like a bat out of hell once I hit about 20 mph. When it dies the check engine light comes on but as soon as I start it it goes back off. I've already changed a bunch of the routine stuff since the car sat for a year such as fuel filter, air filter, plugs, wires, coil, rotor, valve cover gaskets, and replaced nearly all the vacuum lines trying to figure it out thinking its something simple.
Recently purchased a 2004 Toyota Corolla in August. Last night coming home from a show (I'm a musician), the airbag light came on, my headlights seemed to be very dim.Eventually my car radio started to flicker and the mph and rxp meters as well as the odometer started to go up and back down and up while no juice from the gas peddle seemed to go to acceleration. Pulled over, car kinda sputtered like it was a dying battery. Turned it off. Waited tuned it back on and it tried to roll over but sounded like a dead battery again. The interior lights worked fine, all the of symbols (oil, battery engine) flashed but no ignition, radio or lighter charge .
After a long while tried again and it started with some coaxing, made it two more miles down the road and same thing happened, radio lights flicker, dim headlights, airbag light comes on, meters go crazy, lose acceleration. Waited a while, tried it, turned on, it turned on and we sat with it idling and same process happened while sitting there after just a short time. Dim headlights, Radio flicker, airbag light, meters crazy, slow lose of juice.
It has a brand new battery, it's a used car, I've been driving it with the check engine light on but have gotten it looked previously to disclose it was a sensor thing. Recently took it to the Toyota dealership for three recallsOne had to do with the airbags. After it was worked on the second time by them for two other recalls (one had to do with the door and I can't recall the other but am looking for the paper) my battery light came on. And has come off and on for about a week or two but with no trouble. Mostly in town driving. This trip I took was about at 40mi trip back and forth, it did fine up but coming home not so good. I'm not sure if it's any relation but that's the only "repairs" I've had done since purchasing the vehicle
Alternator? Bad battery? Electrical stuff?
Yesterday I took my 2006 Toyota Corolla for an oil change at this small shop. As I drove away I heard a different slight sound coming from the engine, but I thought it could not be possible, since I had just left the mechanic and I had no previous issues with my car. I stopped at a store for about 15 minutes, then I drove a couple more miles when, suddenly, all of the engine lights turned on, the car felt weak and died. I checked the oil and it was totally dry, not even a drop to wet the napkin I used. I called the mechanic, he came over and added oil and an oil filter.
He claimed that the filter burst, is that even possible? Since I hear a strange sound the moment I left his shop, I tend to believe that he failed to put it in. What do you think?The main problem now is that my car engine is making this kind of click clack sound. I called the owner of the shop, who is the brother of the mechanic that worked on my car and I told him that I am taking my car to be diagnosed at Toyota today. If there is damage to the engine, which it sounds like, how can I get these guys to pay for it?Is it safe to drive my car like this?I am very dismayed at the whole situation and really stressed. I need this car to last me another good 5 to 6 years. I am the original owner. How to handle this case and the possible mechanical issues at hand now and down the road.
I have an 05 corolla XRS. I just had a sport clutch put in about 1 year ago. Whenever I shift into 4th gear and accelerate, the RPMs drop about 500 and I lose power for about 3 seconds before it starts going back up. Other gears are acting normal. Best part is that I let my friend drive the car earlier and since he did it's been doing this.
View 7 RepliesHaving problem with 2010 Toyota Corolla. Engine light comes on as well as VSC and traction control but the engine does not shut off. I loose power and engine runs really rough. I have to pull over and unplug my battery cable and the problem is gone until a week or two later same thing happens. My gas mileage is about 10 km for every 100KM city and Highway mix. The engine idle is also rough and sometimes when I try to do a U turn or get in and out of parking the engine shuts off.
Engine scanned shows P0010 and it could be three or for causes? My problem is that mechanics change one thing which costs an arm and a leg then if that did not fix the problem they say now lets change another part? I can not afford to fix them one by one and get charged for it as they replace one part at a time.
I just recently had a new pressure hose (had a leak) replaced on the power steering pump but there is a slight squeaking noise when I turn the wheel. the mechanic says it'll go away after a week or so because of the new fluid that was put in? Is this correct?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1991 DODGE Dakota V6 3.9L FI with a TorqueFlite TF-6 A-500 4 speed RWD Automatic Transmission. Now, this truck is amazing and so is this transmission. It's been going for 22 years and about 400,000 miles and the bands in the tranny have never been replaced...EVER. The fluid filter has been replaced, once. Anyway...it's amazing, I mean the thing is still going strong after all this time and such low maintenance.
Anyway, I noticed a slight lack of acceleration, so as usual for an old automatic, I figured the bands might be slipping a bit. So I dug up the torque specs for it and performed the adjustments. Now, this is the funny part and I was not at all surprised to discover this. In fact, I'd had the hunch the entire time. I discovered that the bands are so old that they no longer respond properly to the recommended torque specs, so I had to guess work them. I did a bit of careful fiddling as I know just about everything there is to know about automatics and I understand perfectly the damage that can be caused when under/overtightening bands.
Anyway, I did some fiddling and got some interesting results that actually made me laugh to be honest, but I knew at first I wasn't quite doing it right. First gear was all right, but second kicked in a little late, and I felt a slip when third came around. So, I decided it was time for a moment of truth. What I ultimately ended up doing was tightening the bands to the recommended torque (in this case 72 inch lbs) and then slowly backing them off until I felt them let go, Then I put the proper torque on the locknuts (in this case 30 ft lbs).
Now, this tranny has two bands and a clutch pack, it has the low-reverse (rear) band, and the Kickdown(forward) band, and I believe the clutch pack is used to engage 3rd gear, because the rear band gives you 1st and rev, and the kickdown band gives you 2nd. After my ultimate adjustments, the kickdown band DID drag just a little for about a minute, but she quickly worked herself into a state where she's shifting better and accelerating better than she ever has before.
I'm amazed by this thing. I'm wondering if the kickdown band lets off when you hit 3rd gear? I know that when I feel the first kick, it's the KD band grabbing the front drum, which gives me second, but I'm wondering if it pulls simultaneously as third gear kicks in, or whether it stays tight against the drum?