Check engine light came on. Codes are P0300, P0302, P0304. Plugs were previously changed. Plugs look good. Changed both coils. Light still one. Injectors also previously cleaned. What else should we check for? Valves hanging? Anything else to check for?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2009 Corolla S w/ 79K miles on it and recently my check engine light came on with the trouble code P0352. The engine would misfire while accelerating and then was extremely rough when at a stop light. This issue and check engine light have been happening intermittently over the last few days. I don't really know anything about engines/cars but doing some research came back with the following...
Possible causes
- Faulty Ignition Coil 2
- Ignition Coil 2 harness is open or shorted
- Ignition Coil 2 circuit poor electrical connection
- Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM)
Basically my question is how do I troubleshoot and figure out what the real problem is? I would rather not buy and replace the Ignition Coil if it is something else. From everything I have seen it seems the simplest method to test the coil is to switch out the ignition coil and spark plug on coil 2 with one of the other 3 ignition coils and see if the the trouble code follows it or stays on 2.
After taking my 2009 Corolla S to the dealer on 4/07 for an oil change, about 4 or 5 days later the check engine light, the traction control light, and the VSC light come on (VSC off blinks). The first day it came on, I took it to autozone to look the code up and they said it was P0353 (issue with ignition coil c I think). I immediately afterwards drove to the dealer to see what they would say. But after parking in their garage speaking with the greeters, they said the light wasnt on, and asked if I wanted to wait the 2 hours to see a tech. So I took it home.
The code came back about 3 days later, and this time there was a slight stall/jolt for about 4 or 5 seconds. This occured on startup and not during driving. After the 4 or 5 seconds of the mild jolting it felt like it was running smooth. I took it home and after leaving it off for about 20 minutes, the light went out again. A couple days later it came back and stayed on over night and was still present when I started it the next day. It went off again later that day.
My question is what could be causing this that might be a simple fix. Do toyota techs check anything with the spark plugs during normal Oil Changes? I know they checked my brakes but Im not a car guy and am not really sure all that they do. Could it be a loose spark plug? Code P0353 coming up sporadically after dealer Oil change. Is there any steps they normally do during the oil change that could be causing this, like leaving a spark plug loose after checking them or something? Would the coil / wiring harness fall under an engine warranty?
I am far from home. Taking a road trip. Day 2 out of 6. My check engine light came on, so I just pulled over. All fluids were fine. Found some place to read the code:
P2757 TCC pressure control Sol Ckt Perf / Stuck off
The guy said it was something to do with trans.
Went on a trip Sunday, and i saw my engine light come on after i put gas in the car. I pulled over, re-checked the gas cap, and it was fine. Car felt fine.
When i got home, i used my OBD2 scanner, and got the error P0304 Code - Cylinder #4 Misfire. I cleared the error and drove the car some more, no issues.
Yesterday, my wife took the car and she said it was hesitating and sputtering, but the light hasn't come back. I have an appointment at the dealer tomorrow, the car has under 80,000k, so the warranty should kick in.
I have a 2000 Toyota Avalon XLS with 134k miles, engine is a v6 (3.0). It has a rough idle and a steady misfire. You can drive it sometimes and it will run perfect and you can drive it sometimes and it will misfire. I am getting codes P1150, P0300,P0302, P0304,P0306. Driving me nuts.
View 1 RepliesSo basically I woke up one morning, was gonna go to work when I tried to start my corolla nothing happened...tried that couple of times and still nothing ....then couple tries later, you could hear the car try to start but then nothing happens. The check Engine light is on when I try to turn on car
The battery and such seems fine. And I don't recall having any problems before, now even the remote control for the key wont work for the car...
I have a 2010 Corolla. The car is flashing the infamous VSC Off, trac, engine light! The car is still has the powertrain warranty. I was wondering if I should take it to a Toyota dealership.
But I read just getting the diagnostic itself is around $100. I don't want to end up paying for that if the repairs end up being something that's not even covered under the warranty.
I own a 2012 Toyota Corolla S w/ 8700 miles on it I am the first owner. Check engine light blinks on and off 8 times. I cleaned the gas cap threads and neck, then I reset the computer by removing the positive terminal for 1 minute. I also checked the oil it's fine. Light still blinks? I have many years of mechanical back ground, without running codes I don't know this one
View 4 RepliesThe fuel line is fine.
Today after work I started the car in a sheltered car garage and as soon as I started the car the after the initial start up sequence the check engine light stayed on and the traction control light stayed on and right next to it on the left side the "VSC Off" light kept blinking and flashing. I turned off the car and started it several times to see if that did anything and to no avail nothing happened.
While I was driving those lights stayed on and the VSC off light kept on blinking. I also checked the brakes and the brake fluid and they all seem to be fine, I even checked the fuel door as well.
I am not sure what is wrong. I was looking at some of the complaint sites and most people say it happens when you drive through a deep puddle or if it is cold and wet outside. But that didn't make sense because I drove in the snow and those lights never turned on. The only time I used the ETS button is during the snow storms and I drive at low speeds.
I need to know why this VSC off light is blinking? Is it a bad sensor or is the ABS/ETS brake system broken or is it an ECU issue or is it because of an alignment. Since I was told to get an alignment soon.
My friend was told by Toyota that the Air Fuel Sensor code was the reason why her 2010 Corolla VSC and engine lights were on. This was after she visited her mechanic who changed the O2 sensor.
Is there a way to change the Air fuel sensor herself without having to pay Toyota...
A few days ago my "Check VSC" warning came on along with the check engine and traction lights being on. I left my car in a parking garage for a week when I was on vacation and the lights came on once I started the car after getting back from my trip.
I have had the "Check VSC" warning before and I fixed it by replacing my gas cap. My gas cap seems fine this time around so I got my codes scanned and the only one that came up was P0300. Having this issue with the 2007 Lexus GS 350? I still feel like it's my gas cap because I bought a cheap replacement last time around.
(This is a continuation of a previous thread: [URL] ..... )
I have a 2005 Nissan Sentra with 75,000 miles on it. Several months ago (see above link) the check engine light came on with a P0304 cylinder 4 misfire code. The only symptom appears to be a rough idle/shaking every 3rd or 4th start for the first 10-15 seconds, but runs smoothly afterwards. My mechanic replaced all my spark plugs (I had new plugs put it at 50,000 miles for the same issue) of which the one from cylinder 4 was worn down much more than the rest. The problem persisted so they replaced my fuel pump and fuel filter and switched the spark coils from cylinder 4 to a different cylinder, but the code still read cylinder 4 so it wasn't the coil. That was back in October.
I took my car back in last week for the same problem and without starting my car (because the problem is worst on the first start) they pushed my car into the bay and did a smoke test, no leaks in the fuel lines. Then they checked the cylinder and said that there was "excess" fuel in the cylinder and replaced the fuel injector. Then after ~3 days the check engine came back on with the same P0304 misfire code. Previous repairs/diagnostics rule out spark plugs, coils, fuel pressure, and injectors.
Mystery issue with my 2001 Accent GSI (5-speed manual, 1.6 L). I'm getting a P0300 error code and the Check Engine light (the light is like an old friend, I miss it when it's not on). This happened four months ago and I replaced the ignition coil - seemed to fix things - but now the light and the error is back with a vengeance. Car stumbles and runs rough. Changed the plugs and plug wires, but no difference.
BTW, there's a small pin hole in the upper part of the gas tank (just enough to give it a gassy smell when the tank is full) but I don't think the hole would be big enough at this stage to cause the check engine light to come on in the same way it does if you leave the gas cap off or loose.
I know it is a random cylinder misfire code however I started my car in the morning and it was fine I moved it and put it back in my driveway. I started it up later and waited for it to heat up i came back outside 10 min later and my check engine light was flashing and my car was shaking like crazy you could tell the engine was misfiring like crazy. I had under a quarter of a tank but not empty yet. I shut it off and turned it back on and it was still doing it. I drove the mile to the gas station the way it was.
Under partial throttle it was revving to 4500 and over 5, had to let of throttle to make the car shift up a gear. I filled up and started the car again performed fine after that however the check engine light was solid now and still on. I went to my local mechanic and he read that code P0300. I changed my spark plugs that day and they were crap the original spark plugs I have 65,xxx on my car now. Car is smooth now. I cleared check engine when i saw him first and it did not come back on all day even before i changed the spark plugs later that night. Why my light was flashing and why my car was acting like that till i filled up?
I have a 2011 GTI (purchased new in 2010) with a stage 1 APR tune and a carbonio stage 1 intake. 71K miles on the car, tune has been on it from nearly the beginning, no issues. I have religiously filled with 93 octane gas -- like, always. The other day I was filling up an empty tank in NJ -- land of mandatory attendants -- and I accidentally said "premium" instead of "super." (I normally self-serve in PA). Before I realized what had happened, I had a full tank of 91 in the car.
I run the 93 octane program on my APR, and I couldn't remember how to switch, so I've been running around the last few days that way, seemingly with no issues. I'm not even sure what's supposed to happen if you burn 91 while in the 93 program.
Anyway, yesterday I happened to go full-throttle in 1st or 2nd gear, and I ran into a little stumble. Strange, but I figured maybe this was the result of my refueling mistake. So, I got out my APR manual and figured out how to switch programs down to the 91 program, which I then did. Took the car out again, and was still able to get it to stumble, eventually with a blinking, then solid CEL. A quick VCDS check showed a "Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected" -- P0300 and "Cylinder 2 Misfire Detected - MIL" -- P0302.
Now at 71K miles, I've never replaced the coils or the plugs, although I have had 2 intake manifolds replaced under warranty. I'm kind of figuring the octane and tune are not really causing this and it's probably just in need of some coils/plugs. what is "supposed" to happen if you run 91 octane on the 93 program? I haven't tired backing down to stock yet, but I could certainly do that and see what happens.
So today I start my car, I get the check engine on (steady not flashing) and have stability control flashing with my traction control light on. I found out it could be the gas cap not on right so I removed it and screwed it on again, check engine light was still on though. However, after starting the car again after a drive it was gone .
I do turn off stability control sometimes if it's nice out?
Corolla has this code : B1801
When i erase it comes right back!
Open in (D) Squib Circuit. What to start looking for?
2012 Corolla S with 84000 miles, for the last month the check engine and trac off light keeps coming on randomly. I disconnect the negative battery charge and wait 10min and reconnect and it goes away. I havnt counted how many miles I go until the light come back on. But since the last time I disconnected the battery my car has been on for 8hours on the engine time. I had them scan it at autozone and the car is throwing two codes one was the MAF and I can't recall the other.
View 5 RepliesJust bought a XLE (currently have had the car for 2 weeks and a total of 275miles) and am experiencing a very strange rattle coming from the engine compartment when accelerating very lightly and engine being fully warm (being ran for atleast 15min). The rattle is coming during 2000-2300rpm. Below and above that range, the problem does not occur. The rattling noise sounds as if some metal is grinding on one another. I understand that the Dual VVT-i is notoriously known for it's noise (ticking/tapping of valves, naturally being a 4cyl, and a small amount of "roar" when applying large amount of throttle) but I think this problem I am exhibiting is by far, not normal.
Symptoms/Conditions:
1. Car must be hot/warm (must be driven for atleast 15 minutes)
2. Must be in a drive or reverse direction. Problem does not occur in park or neutral.
3. You have to be acclerating lightly, the engine rattle occurs from 2000rpm - 2300rpm. It's not a tapping or ticking sound but rather a "buzzing" metal to metal grinding.
4. Sounds like the sound is coming from the intake or exhaust systems and the rpm's is causing a natural vibration frequency that is causing a metal part to vibrate (or resonate). Could explain
5. The car doesn't seem to be power limited or anything abnormal. Drives just fine - just a rattling sound that I hate to believe is normal!
I'm under assumption that this is an engineering design flaw! I would encourage you as Toyota Corolla 2009 owners (1.8L, 4spd autos, manuals) to see if you can replicate this issue. Warm your car up, turn off heat/ac & radio (so you can clearly hear the engine), put it in drive, slowly excelerate, and listen as your rpm's increase (noise will only occur at 2000-2300rpm).
I bought a 2007 Toyota Matrix new, and it now has 41,800-something miles on it. At 38K miles the check engine light came on while I was on vacation out of state. The nearest Toyota dealer checked it out, told me the check engine light code was P0741 - problem with the torque converter - but they didn't see any obvious problem and the car drove fine for them and for me. They turned the light off but it went back on before very long. The car has now been to 2 different Toyota dealerships near my home because the check engine light keeps turning on. They also report seeing the same code, also seeing nothing obviously amiss,and tell me I need my transmission replaced. This seems preposterous to me for such a low mileage Toyota.
In December, when the check engine light went on again, I discovered it would turn off if I filled the car with gas. It still comes back on; if I either fill the car with gas, or simply open and close the gas cap, the check engine light will turn off after 3 - 4 trips with the car. What does the gas cap have to do with the torque converter?
What's really weird is that the light always comes on under the same conditions. Most of my driving is short trips, a couple of miles in town at around 30 mph. The light never comes on during "town" driving. My highway driving consists of trips of about 1 hour; parking for an hour or two; then returning home -- again, about an hour's drive. The check engine light always comes on when I'm doing highway driving on the trip home. I've clocked the mileage for the last 3 times the light came on. It came on after highway driving a total of 48, 51, and 48 miles, respectively.