Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Speaker Wire Attached To Battery But Don't Get Signal
Nov 4, 2014
2013 Corolla L
Stock head unit non-touchscreen
Kenwood KAC 9105D Mono Amp 900w @ 2 ohms OR 500w @ 4ohms
Two 10" Kicker Solo Barics (old school round ; will be swapping soon)
They are Single Voice Coil 4 ohm (wired at a 2ohm load)
I wired the red hot wire (4 gauge) from the battery to the trunk. The ground wire is on the shock nut (4 gauge). The amp has power. The speakers are wired to a 2 ohm load. Now how do I get signal to the amp? This is my first car with a stock head unit. My amp has speaker level inputs and an auto detect feature so it turns on whenever signal comes through. So can I splice into a rear speaker and run the wire straight to the amp correct or would it be better to get a line converter and run RCA cables?
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So my right rear stock speaker in my 09 corolla has started to cut out. some days it works fine, others it's a mess. I've never cranked them so it shouldn't be damaged, in fact it sounds a lot like when a wire is a bit loose. How to fix it?
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Speaker brackets and bracket preparation.
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I have a buzzy, vibrating speaker in my right front door. Is the speaker itself shot or is it just loose? Or does the plastic door panel vibrate against the steel door. Placing my hand on the door doesn't seem to reduce noise ( 2010 Corolla )
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What are the front speaker cutout dimensions. I think I read somewhere that it was 5 and 9/16" but how to verify this. I'm trying to put 6 3/4" speakers in there and was wondering if they will fit?
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Yesterday, I upgraded my door speakers to Fosgate PPS4-8's. They Fit beautifully, and I just have them in the original hole, standing on 3/4" spacers.
Removing my fosgate power 6.75's, I found that there were droplets of water all over the back of them. When you are driving in the rain, water comes in the drain right under the speaker.
The new 8's have baffles that I made out of cheap paint buckets from lowes until the real ones get here. I'm kinda unhappy with Toyota right now. I had assumed that because the stock speaker didn't have any protection, that it would be good.
The PPS4-8's are a midbass speaker, not a woofer. They are good for 80Hz to 5KHz. I went with them because I had a huge hole in my midrange that I couldn't correct because I had no midrange drivers. All 2-way's.
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I am finding the physical location of the alarm speaker that beeps at the driver in the 2009 Corolla. I'd like to know because I want to rip the thing out. I don't need a device annoying me while I'm driving or just listening to music with the door open . I've partially taken apart my dash and could not locate the speaker.
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I have a stock 2010 Corolla with the standard circle speakers in the front, 6X9s in the back. I bought some speakers that do not have the tweeters built into the woofer for the front speakers so where to put them, etc. The speakers that I bought are 5-1/4" two-way loudspeaker components (Infinity Kappas) [URL] can mount the woofers in the door no problem, and I can wire the crossovers that came with it... WHERE DO I PUT THE TWEETERS??? I have to drill in the metal of the door... and poke holes in the actual door panel cover for sound to come through it?
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My 2013 corrolla s speakers seem to be malfunctioning.
Symptoms:
50% of the time there is static coming from the front right speaker and all other speakers are mute.
40% of the time there is no sound.
10% of the time the speakers are fine.
Steps taken this far:
Cleaned the ground underneath the battery.
My dad who is a mechanic says possibly a stereo issue while I think it's a connectivity issue. How to diagnose the problem and salvage my speakers.
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I had two 12" subs running in my 09 corolla. The front right door speaker and little tweeter speaker stopped working so I took the subs out. I figured the speaker was blown so I ordered new ones. When I installed the new door speakers, they didn't work.
I know for a fact it is not the speaker that's faulty because I tried them on the driver- side door and they worked. So my passenger side door and tweeter speakers aren't working. Do I need to order a new tweeter speaker as well? Like does the tweeter need to be working for the door speaker to work? And vice-versa?
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Experience issues with their XM radio signal? It seems I have "no signal" more often than not.
I also have XM on my 05 Suburban and never experience a loss of signal other than going under over passes or through tunnels.
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We have the basic stock CD / radio model number A518A1 and the XM Radio module with the fit kit installed in the passenger side wheel well in the trunk in a 2010 Corolla S.
Installation of the XM Radio & fit kit was dead simple and we're using the built-in OEM antenna on the roof of the car.
The problem we're having is the dreaded NO SIGNAL message when trying to listen to XM Radio.
I have the Lynx portable XM Radio installed in my car and when both cars are in the driveway, I can get the signal all day long and in her car she gets the NO SIGNAL message.
We've already called XM Radio and had the signal resent to the radio numerous times with no success.
I've gone to our Toyota dealer and the only thing they can recommend is to replace the OEM roof antenna. That part alone is $80 and you have to completely disassemble the headliner to get at the antenna.
Wiring up an actual XM antenna to take the place of the OEM roof antenna? I've searched the web and can't find an adapter plug.
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I recently got my corolla (2009) repaired and the technician said that the radio was not connected to the battery for about two weeks. Now the radio (even the backlight) won't turn on regardless of any buttons I press. All the fuses have been checked and are fine. Could this be some anti-theft mode in which something must be done to turn it back on.
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So, I cleaned out my car yesterday and I noticed a bit of corrosion around the terminals on my battery. I just wanted to know if it is actually bad and how I should clean it.
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I recently purchased a 2013 Corolla with about 11K miles. This was a certified vehicle from a Toyota dealer. The battery the car came with died in 2 months. It was replaced with a new battery under warranty. Again, that one only lasted 2 months and was replaced with a new one under warranty.
How can I investigate this issue? Is it the alternator? Is there a drain somewhere in the system? The vehicle is 100% stock.
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The key was left in a 2009 Corolla which ran the battery down. The battery was replaced because of age. New battery worked fine for four days. Then the car wouldn't start. Completely dead. The battery was checked by AAA. Ranger said it was fine. No power to anything expects red flashing light on the security system. I even tried jumping it.
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So I recently replaced my battery with A yellow top battery and got a new 320 volt alternator....my car turns on but will shut off because there is no power coming from the alternator and is running just on battery power alone which is draining the battery. Even when I pull the positive off the battery when it's running it turns off...no power is coming from the alternator but we realized the 4 wires that connect to the alternator only 1 was running power, if I'm not mistaken isn't it suppose to be 2? But we cannot seem to figure out the issue as well the alternator fuse is good we checked that as well , my mechanic also mentioned when the car is off there is still power running from that 1 wire,
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Wiring power from car battery to trunk for amplifier for subwoofer? How to do that easiest way?
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I changed the battery this morning in my 2009 Pontiac Vibe GT with the 2.4 and ended up with a rough idle. I was not having any of these issues before the change. How to adapt the throttle body?
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I am pretty sure that my Denso alternator is shot. My 2010 Corolla S will not start, battery won't hold a charge either. I pop started my vehicle around 10:30am today and drove 30 minute north on the 101. My car appeared to have no issue maintaining power. I rode my bicycle around for about an hour and then tried to start my car. Nothing. Tried to pop start the vehicle twice...still nothing.
The battery has about 40k on it. Car has 121k. So I am guessing it is my alternator.
Like I said the current alternator is made by Denso. I would like to buy a higher quality alternator with maybe a little more cranking amps.
I also am planning on purchasing a Optima battery, should I stick with a yellow top or a redtop. I have some aftermarket audio, only amp is in the Pioneer head-unit (avh p440bt), which is connected to aftermarket 6x9s and components (JL Audio c2-690tx and JL Audio C5-650).
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My daughter's 2010 Corolla has an issue . She was driving and the battery light came. She kept driving and the car finally stopped. Prior to stopping the power steering stopped. I checked under the hood. I found corrosion on the positive battery post. I cleaned it and put a new end on and replaced the battery. The red battery light is still on which I guess indicates we need a new alternator. The power steering still doesn't work.Will a bad alternator keep the power steering from working? Could there be a fuseable link or relay for the electric power steering some where I should check? I hope the alternator is the fix. I checked on a new power steering motor which is part of the rack and assembly. I hope I don't have to replace these.
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