Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Alternator Is Shot, Battery Won't Hold A Charge Either
Jun 28, 2015
I am pretty sure that my Denso alternator is shot. My 2010 Corolla S will not start, battery won't hold a charge either. I pop started my vehicle around 10:30am today and drove 30 minute north on the 101. My car appeared to have no issue maintaining power. I rode my bicycle around for about an hour and then tried to start my car. Nothing. Tried to pop start the vehicle twice...still nothing.
The battery has about 40k on it. Car has 121k. So I am guessing it is my alternator.
Like I said the current alternator is made by Denso. I would like to buy a higher quality alternator with maybe a little more cranking amps.
I also am planning on purchasing a Optima battery, should I stick with a yellow top or a redtop. I have some aftermarket audio, only amp is in the Pioneer head-unit (avh p440bt), which is connected to aftermarket 6x9s and components (JL Audio c2-690tx and JL Audio C5-650).
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So I recently replaced my battery with A yellow top battery and got a new 320 volt alternator....my car turns on but will shut off because there is no power coming from the alternator and is running just on battery power alone which is draining the battery. Even when I pull the positive off the battery when it's running it turns off...no power is coming from the alternator but we realized the 4 wires that connect to the alternator only 1 was running power, if I'm not mistaken isn't it suppose to be 2? But we cannot seem to figure out the issue as well the alternator fuse is good we checked that as well , my mechanic also mentioned when the car is off there is still power running from that 1 wire,
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My battery on my Celica wouldn't hold a charge, as if my alternator was faulty but i took it to Azone and it was fine. Replaced battery around a month ago so i doubt that's the problem..checked fuses and "charging" fuse in fuse box next to battery was not getting current to i ran direct current to from battery it and it seem to have fixed the problem for about a DAY, then fuse blew..replaced it but it still seems to have the same problem ): btw the battery and brake lights stay on..
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My sister owns a 2004 Kia Amanti. The battery will not hold a charge. The battery has been replaced several times. the alternator and regular and anything else that could drain the battery has been checked. All ground posts have been cleaned. At first the battery would go dead every 3 to 5 days but now you have to start the car every day or it will die. They say there is a 7ohm drain on the battery that can't be located. The latest suggestion is to replace the wiring in the driver's side door. What would be causing this?
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My 98' Taurus will not hold a charge. I have replace the battery 3, The alternator was replaced 4 times, and the 175 amp mega fuse was replaced once.I am at wits end cause I don't have a clue what is causing the the battery to discharge over night in the winter and with in 3 days in the sommer. I have rewired the main fuse box under the hood cause the relay to the starter melted the box, I replaced cables to the battery, the alternator, the starter, and the ground to the battery, and the main fuse box under the hood. I have tested the battery to see if it will hold a charge on its own. This test took 3 weeks before it drained. I know it is not the battery. What is going on with this car, Did I miss something?
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I can charge it off someone else battery and it will start and drive, but by the next morning it's dead again. Truck charges fine while truck runs so I don't think it's the alternator. 1999 4.2L V6 ....
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About 4 months I accidentally reversed the polarity when jumping my car and fried my 12V battery and blew the fusible link. I replaced it with an Optima yellow top but due to other issues I haven't driven the car since about that time.
Last week I got most of the other issues resolved and tried starting the car, nothing. It was reading less than a volt on the voltmeter. I used my portable jump starter and got the car started. I only drove it to the gas station (1 mile round trip) to fill my tires and back. I went to start it the next day and nothing again. I thought maybe I didn't charge the battery enough since I hadn't been driving it.
I charged it overnight using a wall charger and again the next day it wouldn't start. Yesterday I jumped it again and drove it about 20 minutes, about half at low speeds (<30 MPH) and half at higher speeds. I got home put the car in park, but still on, and checked the voltage again, about 13.8 V. Turned the car off and checked again and I could see the voltage dropping like a rock. Within about 30 seconds it was down to 6V and within another 30 seconds it was so low that I didn't have any interior lights or dash lights.
It seems to me like the battery is bad. However after I "fried" the original battery I had similar issues. In fact the reason I had to jump it in the first place is because the battery died a few times in the same day. Could something be killing the battery?
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I've noticed that after sitting over night my battery for the hybrid system is not charged enough to operate the car in EV or for the first mile or two it does not seem to use as much electric power to supplement the car. After a couple miles it is charged or near charged and I see more use.
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There a couple of things wrong with this particular vehicle. first, that battery will not hold its charge; it also has a high pitched noise when started and only when accelerating. Where to start?
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I am having a really curious issue with the charging system on my 1999 Golf VR6. The battery will not charge and the alternator seems to be nonfunctional. While running the voltage at the battery starts normal but drops until the engine dies within 20 minutes. Over the last two days I have replaced the alternator, battery, and the battery grounding cable with no change in behavior. The exciter wire on the alternator is showing 9 volts when the vehicle is running and 0 when it is off. There is 1.6 ohms of resistance between the B+ terminal on the battery and the respective terminal on the alternator. There is 0.3 ohms of resistance between the B- battery terminal and the case of the alternator. My task for tomorrow is to trace the exciter wire back to the cluster and try to troubleshoot it there.
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I recently got my corolla (2009) repaired and the technician said that the radio was not connected to the battery for about two weeks. Now the radio (even the backlight) won't turn on regardless of any buttons I press. All the fuses have been checked and are fine. Could this be some anti-theft mode in which something must be done to turn it back on.
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So, I cleaned out my car yesterday and I noticed a bit of corrosion around the terminals on my battery. I just wanted to know if it is actually bad and how I should clean it.
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I recently purchased a 2013 Corolla with about 11K miles. This was a certified vehicle from a Toyota dealer. The battery the car came with died in 2 months. It was replaced with a new battery under warranty. Again, that one only lasted 2 months and was replaced with a new one under warranty.
How can I investigate this issue? Is it the alternator? Is there a drain somewhere in the system? The vehicle is 100% stock.
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The key was left in a 2009 Corolla which ran the battery down. The battery was replaced because of age. New battery worked fine for four days. Then the car wouldn't start. Completely dead. The battery was checked by AAA. Ranger said it was fine. No power to anything expects red flashing light on the security system. I even tried jumping it.
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Wiring power from car battery to trunk for amplifier for subwoofer? How to do that easiest way?
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I changed the battery this morning in my 2009 Pontiac Vibe GT with the 2.4 and ended up with a rough idle. I was not having any of these issues before the change. How to adapt the throttle body?
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2013 Corolla L
Stock head unit non-touchscreen
Kenwood KAC 9105D Mono Amp 900w @ 2 ohms OR 500w @ 4ohms
Two 10" Kicker Solo Barics (old school round ; will be swapping soon)
They are Single Voice Coil 4 ohm (wired at a 2ohm load)
I wired the red hot wire (4 gauge) from the battery to the trunk. The ground wire is on the shock nut (4 gauge). The amp has power. The speakers are wired to a 2 ohm load. Now how do I get signal to the amp? This is my first car with a stock head unit. My amp has speaker level inputs and an auto detect feature so it turns on whenever signal comes through. So can I splice into a rear speaker and run the wire straight to the amp correct or would it be better to get a line converter and run RCA cables?
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My daughter's 2010 Corolla has an issue . She was driving and the battery light came. She kept driving and the car finally stopped. Prior to stopping the power steering stopped. I checked under the hood. I found corrosion on the positive battery post. I cleaned it and put a new end on and replaced the battery. The red battery light is still on which I guess indicates we need a new alternator. The power steering still doesn't work.Will a bad alternator keep the power steering from working? Could there be a fuseable link or relay for the electric power steering some where I should check? I hope the alternator is the fix. I checked on a new power steering motor which is part of the rack and assembly. I hope I don't have to replace these.
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Driving home yesterday and my dashboard battery light started flashing intermittently. This morning it came on and won't go off.
So far I have...
1. Tested alternator and battery with a multimeter and the results appear to be within normal ranges.
2. Pulled out the alternator and had it tested. It went through 7 test cycles on the bench and passed all of them.
3. Swapped out the battery with a new one.
4. Checked the charging system fuse.
5. Thoroughly cleaned the battery cables.
6. Cleaned the battery to chassis and engine to chassis ground cables.
The battery light stays on no matter what I do. What am I missing?
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I have a 2010 Toyota Matrix with the 1.8L engine that has a battery drain that is causing it to click and have a hard time starting after it sits. The clicking is constant, and basically sounds like a dead battery, which it is.
Battery was taken out and tested on a bench at Pep Boys, came back 100%.
Checked my voltage at night after driving it and it was at 12.5 V, checked again in the morning and it was down to 9.6 V. I know I have a drain somewhere, and have read I may need to keep a jumper across the negative terminal to ground until the moment I hook up the multimeter to it to check for a power draw? Is this year/model known to have certain issues with parasitic drain?
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Is the battery draining if you leave the door open all the way with dome light off?
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