Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Battery Drain - Constant Clicking And Hard Time To Start
Jul 15, 2014
I have a 2010 Toyota Matrix with the 1.8L engine that has a battery drain that is causing it to click and have a hard time starting after it sits. The clicking is constant, and basically sounds like a dead battery, which it is.
Battery was taken out and tested on a bench at Pep Boys, came back 100%.
Checked my voltage at night after driving it and it was at 12.5 V, checked again in the morning and it was down to 9.6 V. I know I have a drain somewhere, and have read I may need to keep a jumper across the negative terminal to ground until the moment I hook up the multimeter to it to check for a power draw? Is this year/model known to have certain issues with parasitic drain?
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I have a 96 grand am that will turn on fine at first but after it warms up, it will not start and just keeps trying to turn over. I've also tested the battery with a light test and there is a constant drain on the battery, it will be completely dead overnight and when I charge my battery after starting it once, it will fully charge in about 30 minutes from red so I'm wondering if it's just not holding a charge. I'm not sure if it won't start when it's warm or if the battery just doesn't have a charge??? I took the car to autozone and the alternator passed all tests and the battery is new, the starter is 8 months old. Also the brake light stays on.
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The key was left in a 2009 Corolla which ran the battery down. The battery was replaced because of age. New battery worked fine for four days. Then the car wouldn't start. Completely dead. The battery was checked by AAA. Ranger said it was fine. No power to anything expects red flashing light on the security system. I even tried jumping it.
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2010 Corolla set for a week I went to use it and it would not start it would turn over but not start. I don't think it was the battery because it would chug for a few seconds miss/hiccup then die after trying 8 times it finally started you could smell fuel and the rpms where at 2000 but went back down after it warmed up.
After it started I had the check engine light, vsc off and slip indicator light on when I parked the car I had no issues.
How can this happen by setting for a week in a garage? There's no animals to chew on anything. In the past the car has been hard to start if it set for a week similar to what happened today but never as bad and no check engine lights.
I turned the car off and on and now it starts fine and seems to run ok but all 3 lights are still on. The oxygen sensor on bank 1 was replaced almost a year ago.
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Is the sunroof drain supposed to drain into the trunk? Check out this pic:
Is the Tube supposed to be going where that plug is? If so, is there a specific Toyota plug part number I should use?
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Yesterday, I upgraded my door speakers to Fosgate PPS4-8's. They Fit beautifully, and I just have them in the original hole, standing on 3/4" spacers.
Removing my fosgate power 6.75's, I found that there were droplets of water all over the back of them. When you are driving in the rain, water comes in the drain right under the speaker.
The new 8's have baffles that I made out of cheap paint buckets from lowes until the real ones get here. I'm kinda unhappy with Toyota right now. I had assumed that because the stock speaker didn't have any protection, that it would be good.
The PPS4-8's are a midbass speaker, not a woofer. They are good for 80Hz to 5KHz. I went with them because I had a huge hole in my midrange that I couldn't correct because I had no midrange drivers. All 2-way's.
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My 2009 corolla recently started producing a brief metallic sound (less than a second) when i start in a cold morning. I noticed that when I warm up my battery (by starting the heat ventilator or other electrical equipment) for 10-20 seconds the car starts normally. The other thing I noticed that I have some white powder deposits on the top of my battery. There is no any other changes in the way my car runs.
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The transmission drain plug torque on a 2011 Corolla s, u341e transmission.
I have heard 36ft lbs, I just feel like that is a lot and want to confirm. Any horror stories on snapping these plugs? I'm planning to get new crush washers.
Any experience with just using a fluid extractor to do multiple drain and fills from the dipstick? I've heard the tubing can sometimes melt/break off, but was considering this route to not have to deal with snapping a drain plug.
Tried searching, tried checking my hanyes manual and my factory service manual I have in pdf, neither lists a torque, or at least that I can find.
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What is the ATF drain plug size and its torque spec?
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I'm about to do a transmission fluid change on my 2009 Toyota Corolla and couldn't find the transmission fluid drain plug. Google search revealed various answers - located on transmission pan - located on transmission itself. Looking for a picture of where it's located for a 10th gen Corolla?
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I seem to be having a leak occuring from somewhere within the engine compartment, as I see beads of water dripping into the driver side and passenger side carpets. It only occurs when I turn the fan/A/C on.
This is leading me to believe that the evaporator drain is clogged, the only issue is: Where is it exactly located? I'm looking near the passenger side firewall within the engine compartment for a small black rubber hose, but I can't seem to find it. Is it further down underneath the firewall?
To add insult to injury, the VSA, traction control and check engine light both turned on today. I'm not sure if this is the result of persistent water leaking and causing something to short (I don't really know how water has been leaking for) but what could've caused that?
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I have searched and probably have just missed it but: I have a new 2012 Corolla S. The manual says " displays elapsed time since the engine was started or since the function was reset." Mine has never reset. Does this mean I switch between two different modes? If so, how?
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Our 2009 Corolla S 5-spd is making a ticking sound like a CV joint is out, but the boots are fine, and the sound is only consistent when there's three fat people in it. With just me driving, I can hear it, but it's just an occasional pop when turning, nothing like the very consistent and recognizable click-click-click noise of a dying CV axle, which is exactly what it does when there's weight.
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I've got a 2013 Corolla S with an upgraded sound system. Well when the vehicle is running and its in park or stopped and I turn the wheel, the headlights dim. My headlights also dim if I roll up more than one window at a time. I've been slowly trying to narrow down the issue but with no such luck. I have a 1600 watt amplifier and two, 800 peak watt subwoofers.
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My son just bought a 09 Corolla LE and he gets this clicking noise every time the brakes are applied. The clicking noise comes from the Shifter.
I know that about the Shift Lock Solenoid, but this clicking sound is loud. I have been told that this is normal. So, I thought if this is what 10th Gen owners here is experiencing the same.
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My 2010 toyota corolla LE headliner makes a clicking sound in the back. This usually happens when I go over a rough road.
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Lately it's been -20 degrees (Celsius) here in Quebec, and when i start driving the car, as soon as i take a turn, i hear a clicking noise coming from the center part of my front, it doesn't sound like it's coming from my wheels at all. It doesn't matter if i turn left or right. The noise goes away after driving for 1 minute.
I took it to the dealer, but of course, they couldn't hear it because the car was warmed up, so I'm thinking of leaving it over night? I read that Civics and Corollas have thick Diff oil that cause this?
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I just bought a new corolla a few weeks ago, (Build Date April 2012), so far the car is great except for one issue.
I've noticed when pulling out parking spaces the steering column makes a clicking noise. It sounds more like a plastic noise. My last car had to have intermediate steering shaft lubed every 40k (Pontiac) but it was more of a "clunk" sound. This is more plastic on plastic noise however this appears to be only when the wheel is about 1/2 turn from the "end" or all the way left, or all the way right.
I am trying to figure out if this is a "normal" sound or if something was not put together right. Here is a video .....
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I bought a brand new 2013 Corolla S just 10 days ago. Everything seemed to be working great and I was really enjoying my car, until yesterday when we had a slight drizzle. I put my wipers into intermittent mode, and immediately noticed an audible "click" sound similar to that of the turn signals.
I was quite freaked out at first, so after parking my car I investigated a bit and found the noise was coming from the dash rather than from the wipers. After a few hours of digging around on the Internet, I'm 95% certain it's coming from the wiper relay, and that this is supposed to be "normal".
This is bugging the hell out of me, so my question is, if you can replace just the wiper relay, or would you have to replace the entire stalk/motor assembly? At this point I actually don't mind shelving out $200 if it means I can get some peace of mind, literally.
Which reminds me, if say you could get an OEM (or an ever better aftermarket) wiper relay, and you went to a mechanic to have it installed, would that void the warranty?
I understand there's variations and tolerances exist in manufacturing, but you'd think Toyota would've gotten something as simple as a wiper relay figured out! The 2013 Corolla S I rented for 3 months never had this issue, nor did my mom's 2005 Corolla, or my dad's 2011 RAV4. So why my car?
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Have a question about a noise I hear. This is a click (three click only) that only seems to occur if the car has sat for around an hour or longer. When started and put into gear and it starts to move, there is a metallic click that occurs right after the car starts to move. It come from the front. I try the dealership but no luck.
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I just purchased my first Toyota Matrix We live on-top of a mountain with a 1+ mile rough gravel road leading to our house and I didnt quite think about the low ground clearance and hard suspension set up when I purchased the Matrix It looks like the regular Matrix has softer springs and more ground clearance then the (S) model Is it relatively straight forward to switch out the suspension and would it give me more ground clearance.
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