Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: Clicking Noise When Take A Turn Only In Extreme Cold Temperature
Jan 21, 2011
Lately it's been -20 degrees (Celsius) here in Quebec, and when i start driving the car, as soon as i take a turn, i hear a clicking noise coming from the center part of my front, it doesn't sound like it's coming from my wheels at all. It doesn't matter if i turn left or right. The noise goes away after driving for 1 minute.
I took it to the dealer, but of course, they couldn't hear it because the car was warmed up, so I'm thinking of leaving it over night? I read that Civics and Corollas have thick Diff oil that cause this?
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My son just bought a 09 Corolla LE and he gets this clicking noise every time the brakes are applied. The clicking noise comes from the Shifter.
I know that about the Shift Lock Solenoid, but this clicking sound is loud. I have been told that this is normal. So, I thought if this is what 10th Gen owners here is experiencing the same.
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I bought a brand new 2013 Corolla S just 10 days ago. Everything seemed to be working great and I was really enjoying my car, until yesterday when we had a slight drizzle. I put my wipers into intermittent mode, and immediately noticed an audible "click" sound similar to that of the turn signals.
I was quite freaked out at first, so after parking my car I investigated a bit and found the noise was coming from the dash rather than from the wipers. After a few hours of digging around on the Internet, I'm 95% certain it's coming from the wiper relay, and that this is supposed to be "normal".
This is bugging the hell out of me, so my question is, if you can replace just the wiper relay, or would you have to replace the entire stalk/motor assembly? At this point I actually don't mind shelving out $200 if it means I can get some peace of mind, literally.
Which reminds me, if say you could get an OEM (or an ever better aftermarket) wiper relay, and you went to a mechanic to have it installed, would that void the warranty?
I understand there's variations and tolerances exist in manufacturing, but you'd think Toyota would've gotten something as simple as a wiper relay figured out! The 2013 Corolla S I rented for 3 months never had this issue, nor did my mom's 2005 Corolla, or my dad's 2011 RAV4. So why my car?
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Have a question about a noise I hear. This is a click (three click only) that only seems to occur if the car has sat for around an hour or longer. When started and put into gear and it starts to move, there is a metallic click that occurs right after the car starts to move. It come from the front. I try the dealership but no luck.
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If your experiencing a clicking noise coming from the lower right side of your driver seat, more noticeable over rough roads with pressure applied to the backrest, read on. After much trial and error troubleshooting, here's what worked for me.
I removed the tension on a small clock like spring located on the driver seat back right side pivot point. Since having done so, no more annoying clicking sound and I haven't noticed any difference or adverse side-effect in seat operation /adjustment. I've got photos....
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I just bought a used 2009 corolla, turns out a few weeks in, I am getting the infamous water pump/ac compressor clicking noise from the drive belt area.
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Is it possible for the brakes to make some kind of noise when it's cold outside?
I've been noticing some kind of noise after a cold start, I'd drive the car a little bit then apply the brakes and it would just make this random noise coming from the front-right side of the car. It sounds like a grinding noise, but I can't really tell. It doesn't create an issue either, I'll let go of the steering wheel and the car doesn't drift in any direction at all, the noise appears but the car is slowing down properly.
The noise disappears though after the 1st time it happens, and would only reappear after you've turned the car off, parked it where it's cold and it would only appear after not using it for at least 2 hours. My dad already took it to the dealership and they said the brakes are perfectly fine.
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I hear a loud screeching noise (like a loose belt) when the 2009 Corolla starts cold. It disappears, and when the car gets a little warmer, it's gone. I had the belt replaced, made no difference. Car runs fine, otherwise.
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Every now and then I have rattling noise when trying to start on a cold start in the morning. Mainly just sounds like a dry start. Battery is good, oil is full (high mileage Valvoline 5W20). Ive tried 5W-30 and it didn't do anything, just made the mpgs about 1 less.
Ive had the car fixed for the main TSB issue with the starter/camshaft so that is not it, which caused a full on grinding noise.
Everyday commuter car, use 87 chevron gas always, and I just used Lucas gas additive the last two fill ups (used normally every 1k miles) and still getting the noise every now and then in the morning. Are there any better injector cleaners out there?
Should I get the fuel injectors fully 3step cleaned? when talking to the service rep at brake-masters, they stated that I should use 91 premium gas to work with dry starts to burn off extra carbon buildup. Wasn't sure if that was a good idea for a 09 corolla S?
93k miles, new spark plugs last week, oil changes every 3k.
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I've run into a very strange whining noise in the mornings on my 2010 Corolla S.
I've done some diagnosis and the issue only occurs when it gets chilly out (below about 50 degrees). When you go out to the car in the AM with things dead cold and turn the key into the run position before you start it the noise starts up right under the dash on what sounds like the passenger side. I've tried the fan on and off and it doesn't seem to affect it. It does seem to be lasting longer and it really sounds like a bad bearing in a small motor. As the car warms up the noise disappears and doesn't reappear unless it cools down all the way, which usually means it has to sit overnight.
It doesn't seem to affect how the car runs so I'm guessing it's not a primary system, likely something with climate control or AC?
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I hear a loud screeching noise (like a loose belt) when the 2009 Corolla starts cold. It disappears and when the car gets a little warmer, it's gone. I had the belt replaced, made no difference. Car runs fine, otherwise.
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I have a 2010 Corolla S Got it brand new in november of 2009. Its been 5 years since I had it and never had this problem.
So this has been happening for a month now, and I can't figure out what it is? It only sounds at first startup of the day when the engine is cold and only sounds off for 1 second right when you start the car.
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I have an 09 Corolla S. Back before winter, my heat control knob got real tight and felt like it broke loose inside one day. This left the heat control stuck in the red somewhere. Its way too expensive to have this fixed at Toyota. I ordered the heat control panel off Ebay, went to replace it yesterday, and it turns out the actual cable must be broke at the other end. When I tried to rewrap the cable around the knob, it has no tension and pops right back off.
My question: where this cable connects to on the car? How hard is it to replace and where do I find one?
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I am a two Corolla owner. I have a 2004 with 205, 000 kms and a 2010 with 70,000 kms. By far, my favourite car to drive is the 2004. The build quality is by far better. I could list other issues or pt peeves of mine about the 2010.
My 2010 is giving me some issues.
For starters my seat and console squeak like crazy. About 10, 000 kms ago I had the dealer try to deal with it under a TBS.
The next issue I have is that when I turn my steering wheel I hear a low pinging noise!
Lastly, in my trunk that plastic pieces that hold the trunk latch cable to the trunk arm have broken.
As for those plastic pieces in the trunk, what the part numbers might be?
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I just got a 2013 Corolla Saturday (manual transmission). So far, I love the car, but I think I'm having a problem with the steering column. When I turn the steering wheel in a parked position, I can hear an audible "rubbing" noise coming from the column. I called the dealership, and spoke not only to the service department, but also to my salesman, who has one too. He says he's never heard that, and the service department assures me it's normal and is because it's an electric motor now instead of a fluid power steering system.
So, do I have reason to be concerned? Experienced this after only 300 or so miles on a new car? We traded a Scion IQ for this Corolla (didn't like the CVT whine in the IQ), and never heard anything like this.
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My '09 2.4L Vibe has started to leak coolant around the coolant temperature sensor. It seems rather odd to me.
Who makes the OEM model? It shows as GM Part 88975489.
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Our 2009 Corolla S 5-spd is making a ticking sound like a CV joint is out, but the boots are fine, and the sound is only consistent when there's three fat people in it. With just me driving, I can hear it, but it's just an occasional pop when turning, nothing like the very consistent and recognizable click-click-click noise of a dying CV axle, which is exactly what it does when there's weight.
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My 2010 toyota corolla LE headliner makes a clicking sound in the back. This usually happens when I go over a rough road.
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I just bought a new corolla a few weeks ago, (Build Date April 2012), so far the car is great except for one issue.
I've noticed when pulling out parking spaces the steering column makes a clicking noise. It sounds more like a plastic noise. My last car had to have intermediate steering shaft lubed every 40k (Pontiac) but it was more of a "clunk" sound. This is more plastic on plastic noise however this appears to be only when the wheel is about 1/2 turn from the "end" or all the way left, or all the way right.
I am trying to figure out if this is a "normal" sound or if something was not put together right. Here is a video .....
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I have seen a lot of threads about air coming from the glove box, I have the same problem. So I open up the glove box and see directly above the cabin filter there are three openings that should be covered with a mesh material. This material has broken and fallen off completely. What is the reason why I couldn't just tape them up, does the material have to be porous?
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I have a 2010 Toyota Matrix with the 1.8L engine that has a battery drain that is causing it to click and have a hard time starting after it sits. The clicking is constant, and basically sounds like a dead battery, which it is.
Battery was taken out and tested on a bench at Pep Boys, came back 100%.
Checked my voltage at night after driving it and it was at 12.5 V, checked again in the morning and it was down to 9.6 V. I know I have a drain somewhere, and have read I may need to keep a jumper across the negative terminal to ground until the moment I hook up the multimeter to it to check for a power draw? Is this year/model known to have certain issues with parasitic drain?
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