Is there anyway we can adjust our throttle or gas pedal? Cause when I press down on gas, it doesn't open until about an inch down the pedal. Pretty much, I just want the throttle to be more responsive.
View 7 RepliesIs there a way to adjust the dome light timer? I want it to stay on longer than it does.
View 1 Replies2010 corolla drove fine for a few hours after being rear ended, then has no throttle response. Will only go 20 MPH on flat ground. But, turn the car off for a few seconds and restart....and it has full throttle response which may continue for a few seconds after putting car in gear. Then it is back to no throttle response. Car is setting p0600 code. Traction control is off. VSC light is on. Looking for something knocked loose.
View 4 RepliesHaving problems with a ECM and throttle body for 2010 Corolla S? My corolla will idle rough and the throttle body will shut the car down to where it is inoperable. It throws codes and shuts the VVT down. The car currently has 56k miles on it and has been to Toyota 3 times in 3 months.
The first time they say they replaced the ECM, I really don't think so. 24 hours after we picked the car up it shut down again. The second time we brought it back in they said the brake light bulb caused the throttle body to shut down.
It had to go back again this week after it shut down again in traffic when it was idling. Toyota said the throttle body had to re-learn the idle again from when the ECM was supposedly replaced.
I've noticed the 2013 Corolla has a second+ gap between the moment you press the pedal and the engine RPMs actually rise. Most often, the car jerks as the RPMs rise too fast to keep up with my foot.
In fact, if I press the pedal all the way to the floor and release it quickly enough, the engine doesn't even react.
When I am driving holding the gas pedal and the rpm at about 1500-2000 rpm but when I release the gas pedal the rpm goes down maybe 500-750 rpm then back up.
View 4 RepliesOn my 2010 s ,my pedal brake begin to work on low position, I have 35000km it is normal? my wife hate this car because this.
View 4 RepliesIt was about 7 degrees Fahrenheit and I started my car and it took a few seconds longer to start then normal but I kind of expected that as it was pretty cold.
Then after letting the engine warm up a little bit I went to leave and the clutch pedal was sticking for a second or two between shifts and I still kind of ignored it and drove home, well after a 45 minute drive by my house it was still doing it.
The next day I drove it to the store and after sitting in my garage for a while it was fine. A few days later, (well last night) I went on a break to get some food and it did the same thing when I left to do that but after it was warmed up to normal operating temperatures it was fine again. When I first started it, the temp was 13 degrees.
I am trying to figure out if there is something wrong with my car or if all of them do that. I am going to stop by the local dealership on my way home today but if it is normal I don't want to waste my time. I just don't like the fact that I live in Minnesota and the temperature is going to get colder then that. I mean what is it going to do then?
This vibration with sound on my brake pedal started after i change my stock intake to takeda. Well, Not all the time this thing happen, only when im in this kind of situation:
Pressing and hold my brake pedal at full stop and the gear is set to Drive, then, when the RPM goes down to below 900, the vibration with sound started, and it only disappear when i release my brake or when the RPM goes up automatically.
But, this only happened with this kind of situation when my car already heated up (like driving it more than 10 mins) and the temperature is at stable level.
While my car is just started driving, or its not already heated up, no vibration is happening.
I did a search and found nothing. When I press on the brake pedal, it seems to go half way to the floor before grabbing. The other 2010 I tested did the same thing. Is this common or is this something that I need to take to the dealer?
View 5 Replies2011 Corolla LE. Recently I upgraded the air intake, look at the picture
Shortly after that both me and my wife noticed that the brake pedal vibrates while car is In stop on lights. The vibration is only on the pedal and if you press it hard you suppress it. But when you feet is pressing light in the air it's very noticeable.
She also thinks that during above scenario RPMs go from about 1000k to 900 so are dropping. To be honest I did not notice that and not sure if this is normal or not. Other than that the car runs great and sounds much nicer bit loud but I like it.
Title should say Throw-out bearing aka Release bearing.
I have a 2010 5 speed Corolla CE. Having problems with their Throw-out bearings. At around 8000 miles the sqeaking/chirping noise of the bearing was too much so I brought in it to the dealer to fix. They agreed and made the repair.
Now it is only at 10000 miles (22000km) and I can hear it starting again. Just wondering if it is a common problem?
Noise comes and goes as the clutch pedal is released. If you push it in it will go away. It also will happen in all gears but easiest to hear in neutral.
I have Corolla 1.6 dual VVTi (year - 2009.), manual transmission, 1ZR engine, for about a year, ~50000miles on clock. About a month ago from a engine part it began to produce sound that can be heard on the accompanying recordings.
For these sounds is characteristic that:
- can be heard only while driving and depressing a gas pedal, its not heard when Im changing rmps while the car is stationary..
-only when engine is warm
-from about 1900rpm to 3000rpm.
-Toyota service is not useful, they fail to locate the source of the sound.
I submit sound recordings that I made by placing a microphone in the motor department.
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Is this normal? You can hear the air coming out.
The reason I ask if it's normal is because it seems like I have to press my brake pedal halfway down before it engages. At least an inch or two. However I can still lock up the beaks. But it seems like they are not as sensitive. Takes a bit of travel to engage.
I've already bled the brakes too.
2009 XRS ABS brakes .... I changed all four brake pads and flushed out most of the old brake fluid. Bled all four sides. But now while I am in idle (like waiting for a light to turn) my brake pedal is spongy and is making a hissing sound. All was good before I did this job.
View 3 RepliesI bought my 2010 Corolla 5 years ago with 17,000 miles on it. Since then I've put on about another 46,000. With 63,000 miles it needs it's 4th set of rotors due to brake pulse and shudder. We live in the prairie and I'm not hard on brakes. The brakes have never felt like my 05 Corolla.
Can this be caused by too aggressive of brake pads?
I have a 2012 Toyota Corolla LE (automatic transmission) with 90000 miles on it.
For a long time now I have dealt with a whining sound in my 2012 Toyota corolla. The symptoms are that the sound only happens when the accelerator pedal is slightly engaged. This happens at any speed. At the slightest push of the pedal a whining/spinning sound happens and if you maintain pedal engagement the sound of whining/spinning continues. The sound goes away instantly when the pedal is depressed and will again come back when engaged subsequent times.
I have been researching on the internet and I seem to be pointed in the direction of the transmission fluid to change from the Toyota Genuine ATF WS currently being used in the 2012 Toyota Corolla as the stock transmission fluid to Redline D4 as others have experienced a similar noise problem in 2010 corolla models and have made the noise go away by using the Redline D4 because of viscosity differences. I am not sure however if the same transmission model (U341E) is being used in all Corolla models.
I just purchased a 2011 F-150 XTR and i noticed the pedals very close to me and i know it does not have electric positioning and it appears that looking at it, it can be adjusted manually..
View 10 RepliesI have a 2009 corolla ce i can get the key in to the ignition ...
View 1 RepliesSo I want to disable the ABS on my Corolla. I was wondering if I could pull the fuse in my bonnet to disable the ABS and if I were to do so which fuse would I pull.
I think if I were to pull the fuse from the interior, the other car features that are tied into the fuse wouldn't work.
If I can't pull the fuse in the bonnet, what are the other ways I could disable ABS? I read that removing the relay is an option.
Also is there anything I should know if I were to reactivate ABS? For instance, would the ABS light be off when I presumably reactivate it or do I need to perform some extra steps to remove the ABS light?
My 09 corolla has a whine at around 35-50 mph it does sound like its rpm related. When i let off the throttle it isn't as loud.
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