Just noticed the other day when when rolling up or down the window on my 2010 corolla, when the window reaches the upper / lower stop and the switch is held down, the idle speed drops and the engine stumbles. Alternator ?
View 6 RepliesI recently bought a used 2010 Toyota Corolla s with around 79000 miles on it. It's an automatic and everything drives good but just one thing that has been annoying me. The problem is that when I come to a complete stop and stop there for a a while, the idle slowly drops from 650 to 600.
When this happens the car engine starts to vibrate excessively and you could feel it on your feet and steering wheel. When I turn a load on, the rpm rises and the vibration goes away.
I have cleaned the throttle body, checked the mounts and it's good, no cracks, cleaned MAF sensor, reset the idle by unplugging battery, took it in to the dealership and they said it is normal. I believe it's not normal.
My master window switch stop working. All of the other window switches work from the other doors. The driver side one will not work any of the windows. the power lock works but I cannot control any of the windows from the driver side.
View 1 Replies2012 Corolla S 5 speed manual. Just bought the car in September. CPO with 19k miles on it when purchased. Now it has 22k miles. The "problem" is as follows:
After driving the car around for some time, meaning fully warmed-up, when I come to a stop at a light the engine's idle speed will slowly drop from about 800 (where it's as smooth as glass and I can't even tell the engine is running) to about 650-600 and there's a noticeable shudder in the wheel and in the whole car. It lasts for a few seconds then the RPM goes back to normal - just as if it's correcting itself. This happens with nothing running except the radio. No fan, no A/C, nothing.
The only thing I could think is that the radiator fan is kicking on and causing the alternator to work harder? Considering this is a manual is it safe to rule out any kind of transmission issue?
I didn't notice it when I test drove the car, and honestly, the car I was driving before made so much racket that this Corolla sounds like a luxury car by comparison.
I purchased a used 2010 Toyota Corolla LE with about 40k miles back in February of this year. Since then, the car has been issue-free and has responded accordingly.
Two weeks ago I noticed that the car when idle or at a stop light it'd make a subtle rattling noise (as if it was something behind the glove compartments rattling against metal). At 1st I thought maybe it was something inside, but as that week turned to days, I noticed that while I was outside the car and it was on and idle, I could hear the rattling from the right side of the car under the passenger seat (closer to the engine, as if right below where the glove compartment sat)--It is a constant rattle at the same frequency..meaning it doesn't rattle one way 1st and then another later. It sounds the same, but it is random.
It evolved from a subtle rattle inside to being a loud rattle outside under the car. I noticed that if it was rattling and I turned off the air, the rattling would stop, but after 20 seconds, the rattling would return just not as frequent.
It was advised to me that perhaps it was the blower...but the blower sits behind the glove compartment and should not sound so loud under the car. Not only that, but if the blower isn't on (when I turn off the air) it shouldn't sound...at least that's my logic for it.
The sound is getting louder and more frequent at this time and I'm just not sure what to do about this. I don't know what this rattling is and I've already crawled under the car and see nothing wrong, nothing shaking violently, nothing.
2009 Corolla LE... IDLE will fluctuate from 600 to 900 while at a stop light. It will keep rev up and then rev down to the point where it feels like the car is about to turn off and then it will rev back up again. I use Shell 89 Octane fuel. I have tried everything with the car.
I have cleaned the MAF, the Throttle Body, changed the engine air filter, using only 0W-20 Synthetic oil (change every 3.5 to 4k miles). Have added Fuel Injector cleanered to the fuel: Have tried BG44k, Red Line SL-1, Techron Concentrate. Added Liqui-Moly Ceratec to the engine oil to reduce friction.
Now Changed the Bank 1 Sensor 2 for Oxygen sensor.
Drained the Transmission fluid, dropped the pan, changed the transmission filter and refilled it with the Toyota ATF.
Changed Spark Plugs and used the Toyota OEM Iridiums.
Reset the ECU.
Tires at 35 PSI.
2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
View 1 Replies2011 Corolla S 1.8L 4 speed a/t
I have noticed that when my car shifts from second into third gear at around 50 km/hr that the rpm drops twice. It shifts (almost seemingly to a 2.5 gear) and the rpm drops and then a second later it's like it shifts again and the rpm drops again, is this torque converter lock up I am experiencing?
This also usually happens when I give it light throttle and not when I am heavily accelerating.
2011 Corolla S, the RPM's drop by couple hundred suddenly when easing off the gas pedal. This is more noticeable at speeds of about 60-70mph. I got it checked out under warranty and the dealer said it is normal as the car shifting out of overdrive.
They may be correct in this as it is the speed around which the overdrive comes into play but it just does not feel right, although it may be related to the overdrive, they should have a fix so that the car slows down gradually, not suddenly.
I have read other TS-B updates which resolves the problem of fluctuating RPM's at steady speeds or the RPM not dropping when letting off the gas pedal, however my issue is slightly different in that the RPM's drop suddenly and then jumps back up again. I wonder if that same TS-B flash will resolve my issue.
I have a 2013 Corolla S. I notice when I let the car idle for like 5-10 minutes the Average mpg readout drops to around 22 mpg(in city while driving it is usually at 25). Why is this?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2010 Corolla S with automatic transmission. Today it started giving a push or a jerk when the 1st gear drops, so from 1st going to 2nd it pushes or jerks the car ahead. Not sure what is wrong with it, it has 56000 miles on it.
View 14 RepliesIf your experiencing a clicking noise coming from the lower right side of your driver seat, more noticeable over rough roads with pressure applied to the backrest, read on. After much trial and error troubleshooting, here's what worked for me.
I removed the tension on a small clock like spring located on the driver seat back right side pivot point. Since having done so, no more annoying clicking sound and I haven't noticed any difference or adverse side-effect in seat operation /adjustment. I've got photos....
1998 Honda Civic EX. This has been a great car and have got a ton of good miles on it. The problem that I am having now is with the temperature gauge. The measurement is completely all over the place while driving. While moving around town, the gauge shows the temperature VERY hot. As soon as I reach a consistent speed, the temperature drops back to normal (moves very erratically!). The gauge seems to get even hotter while idling. Another issue (may or may not be related) is the heat coming out of the vents is only working while the car is in motion. While stopped, it pumps out cold air. The temperature immediately changes when I get going again. Both problems seem to be getting worse. The car has coolant, and all other levels of fluids are normal.
View 14 RepliesI've noticed since I bought my car that when I drive the passenger side window tends to creep down and I have to hit the switch to bring it back up. It doesn't come down a lot but enough to hear the wind whistle through it. I'm not sure if this is motor or regulator issue or what.
View 9 RepliesHow to check on air leaks. I am having air leaks on the driver window. All of the weatherstripping seems to be intact and I can't seem to locate the noise. What are some things I can do to check?
View 6 RepliesMy rear passenger window is stuck all the way down. It will not go up at all by its dedicated switch or master switch. i can hear the motor when pressed down but refuses to go up. master switch is most likely the culprit (it has serious issues) & i'm still waiting for replacement to arrive in mail..
For the time being, what are my options, I can't take car anywhere with window all the way down.
I have a toyota corolla 2011 and I dont remember when window auto down stopped working or if it worked at all. I never disconnected the battery, not sure about if the dealer has done it after I took it for service before. Or maybe the auto down is fake?
View 5 RepliesI've got a 2013 Corolla S with an upgraded sound system. Well when the vehicle is running and its in park or stopped and I turn the wheel, the headlights dim. My headlights also dim if I roll up more than one window at a time. I've been slowly trying to narrow down the issue but with no such luck. I have a 1600 watt amplifier and two, 800 peak watt subwoofers.
View 4 RepliesSo, I've been noticing that my passenger side window in my Corolla is being a little weird. Whenever someone opens or closes the door while the window is closed, the window makes a rattling sound. Also, when I play music in the car, the window sounds like it's shaking even though it is fully up. The other windows don't do this and it will stop if I press the button to raise the window. Another thing it does is that when the window is almost fully down, it makes a thump or a clicking noising and then it goes down. So could it be a loose window or a bad motor? Also, any way to fix this myself other than taking out the door panel?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2010 Corolla LE. Sometimes I feel like the driver side mirror has a slight vibration when I drive.. Also, if I drive over a rough tar road with ripples on the road, there seems to be the driver side window vibration also..
View 1 RepliesMy vision get blurry when looking down at the dash speedometer so I bought a external speedometer to look like a heads up in the windshield. Kinda at lost where to tap at the speedometer and tach cable.
2010 Corolla S