Corolla / Matrix 2009-13 :: RPM At Idle (Stop Light In Gear) Fluctuates From 600 To 1100
May 5, 2014
2009 Corolla LE... IDLE will fluctuate from 600 to 900 while at a stop light. It will keep rev up and then rev down to the point where it feels like the car is about to turn off and then it will rev back up again. I use Shell 89 Octane fuel. I have tried everything with the car.
I have cleaned the MAF, the Throttle Body, changed the engine air filter, using only 0W-20 Synthetic oil (change every 3.5 to 4k miles). Have added Fuel Injector cleanered to the fuel: Have tried BG44k, Red Line SL-1, Techron Concentrate. Added Liqui-Moly Ceratec to the engine oil to reduce friction.
Now Changed the Bank 1 Sensor 2 for Oxygen sensor.
Drained the Transmission fluid, dropped the pan, changed the transmission filter and refilled it with the Toyota ATF.
Changed Spark Plugs and used the Toyota OEM Iridiums.
Reset the ECU.
Tires at 35 PSI.
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I purchased a used 2010 Toyota Corolla LE with about 40k miles back in February of this year. Since then, the car has been issue-free and has responded accordingly.
Two weeks ago I noticed that the car when idle or at a stop light it'd make a subtle rattling noise (as if it was something behind the glove compartments rattling against metal). At 1st I thought maybe it was something inside, but as that week turned to days, I noticed that while I was outside the car and it was on and idle, I could hear the rattling from the right side of the car under the passenger seat (closer to the engine, as if right below where the glove compartment sat)--It is a constant rattle at the same frequency..meaning it doesn't rattle one way 1st and then another later. It sounds the same, but it is random.
It evolved from a subtle rattle inside to being a loud rattle outside under the car. I noticed that if it was rattling and I turned off the air, the rattling would stop, but after 20 seconds, the rattling would return just not as frequent.
It was advised to me that perhaps it was the blower...but the blower sits behind the glove compartment and should not sound so loud under the car. Not only that, but if the blower isn't on (when I turn off the air) it shouldn't sound...at least that's my logic for it.
The sound is getting louder and more frequent at this time and I'm just not sure what to do about this. I don't know what this rattling is and I've already crawled under the car and see nothing wrong, nothing shaking violently, nothing.
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I recently bought a used 2010 Toyota Corolla s with around 79000 miles on it. It's an automatic and everything drives good but just one thing that has been annoying me. The problem is that when I come to a complete stop and stop there for a a while, the idle slowly drops from 650 to 600.
When this happens the car engine starts to vibrate excessively and you could feel it on your feet and steering wheel. When I turn a load on, the rpm rises and the vibration goes away.
I have cleaned the throttle body, checked the mounts and it's good, no cracks, cleaned MAF sensor, reset the idle by unplugging battery, took it in to the dealership and they said it is normal. I believe it's not normal.
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Just noticed the other day when when rolling up or down the window on my 2010 corolla, when the window reaches the upper / lower stop and the switch is held down, the idle speed drops and the engine stumbles. Alternator ?
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My wife's 2009 Corolla S has 107,000 miles. Early on it developed a low idle and vibration while stopped at a light. It was idling about 600 rpm after it warmed up. It never stalled but occasionally vibrated. After doing some research I found some were having success cleaning the throttle body and throttle plate. I did that along with changing the spark plugs. At that time I disconnected the battery to reset the computer. She has put about 2,000 miles on it since then and it never idles below 800 rpm. The vibration hasn't been back either.
I believe it was the throttle body/ plate cleaning and disconnecting the battery that resets the computer that fixed it. The plugs still looked good at 105 K miles, but I had new ones so I put them in. I bought a can of Berryman b12 choke & carb cleaner and sprayed a little on the throttle body and plate and then sprayed some on a rag and wiped down the body and plate. It was quite dirty.
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Lately I would be stopped at a red light and my rpms would drop to 600. And when I turn my headlights on the rpms go up and the rough idle stops. Should I check it out if so what should I check? My corolla has 49.5k.
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The fuel line is fine.
Today after work I started the car in a sheltered car garage and as soon as I started the car the after the initial start up sequence the check engine light stayed on and the traction control light stayed on and right next to it on the left side the "VSC Off" light kept blinking and flashing. I turned off the car and started it several times to see if that did anything and to no avail nothing happened.
While I was driving those lights stayed on and the VSC off light kept on blinking. I also checked the brakes and the brake fluid and they all seem to be fine, I even checked the fuel door as well.
I am not sure what is wrong. I was looking at some of the complaint sites and most people say it happens when you drive through a deep puddle or if it is cold and wet outside. But that didn't make sense because I drove in the snow and those lights never turned on. The only time I used the ETS button is during the snow storms and I drive at low speeds.
I need to know why this VSC off light is blinking? Is it a bad sensor or is the ABS/ETS brake system broken or is it an ECU issue or is it because of an alignment. Since I was told to get an alignment soon.
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Having an issue with 2nd gear in their automatic trans. I find that 1st pulls great, but then it shifts and just feels bogged down until it gets out of 2nd, and then it feels free again in 3rd and 4th. Wondering if this could be a problem with the transmission itself or if it just needs the shift points re-tuned?
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I have an '09. Experience a shakiness/shaking when the car slows down to a stop? Like, you slow down to a stop, then the car starts to shake for a few seconds.
I feel like it doesn't happen to me in neutral, which makes me think it is the transmission. Sometimes I get a rough/shaky start as well....
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Is it ok to put it on Neutral while I'm on stop, stop light, etc. while the engine is running? I have an Automatic....
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I have a 2009 Corolla XRS 5 speed manual and it has started to idle low (sometimes), under 600 rpm and i know that's not normal... I bought it brand new and it has 75k miles
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I have a 2000 Celica GTS that idles a little rough it has 118000 miles on it.. Fluctuates between 500 rpm and about 1100 rpm. Doesnt always do this, usually after ive been driving for a while. I also may have a rod knock, what parts would i need to fix both of these issues? Me and some friends can do the work ourselves, i just need the parts.
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So the grind in 3rd gear is getting pretty bad. I have to put it into third slowly and 4th sometimes grinds a bit. Could it be the slave or master cylinder?
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2011 Corolla S 1.8L 4 speed a/t
I have noticed that when my car shifts from second into third gear at around 50 km/hr that the rpm drops twice. It shifts (almost seemingly to a 2.5 gear) and the rpm drops and then a second later it's like it shifts again and the rpm drops again, is this torque converter lock up I am experiencing?
This also usually happens when I give it light throttle and not when I am heavily accelerating.
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I have a 2010 Corolla S that I bought new. It has a manual transmission, 19k miles and I have not had any problems until recently. Let me start by saying I've been driving a manual for over 20 years so I know how to drive them.
That night, in 1st gear it rolled out of my driveway. My driveway has a mild incline that the car has been parked on for a year this way with no problems. When I went to pull it back on it gave me trouble starting as if the starter got stuck but did not engage with the motor. Once started I pulled it back on and noticed that every few seconds it rolls back a couple inches then stops and holds for 15-20 seconds then rolls again.
It does this until it finds a flat spot to land on. Everytime its parked on my driveway now it wont stay there. Now before you tell me to use the p-brake, which by the way is the dealerships solution, let me remind you that the car has been parked in this spot everyday for a year with NO issues until last week.
Since this started I've been using the p-beake but I want to know why its doing this all of a sudden.
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My master window switch stop working. All of the other window switches work from the other doors. The driver side one will not work any of the windows. the power lock works but I cannot control any of the windows from the driver side.
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2011 Corolla LE. Recently I upgraded the air intake, look at the picture
Shortly after that both me and my wife noticed that the brake pedal vibrates while car is In stop on lights. The vibration is only on the pedal and if you press it hard you suppress it. But when you feet is pressing light in the air it's very noticeable.
She also thinks that during above scenario RPMs go from about 1000k to 900 so are dropping. To be honest I did not notice that and not sure if this is normal or not. Other than that the car runs great and sounds much nicer bit loud but I like it.
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Just bought a used 09 Corolla LE with 89K miles on it. I noticed a subtle rough idle when I come to a stop light and especially noticeable when in reverse. Here are the things I've tried so far:
- TB and fuel system cleaned at Instant Valvoline
- Cleaned the MAF sensor with a MAF sensor cleaner
- Replaced the spark plugs with OEM plugs
- Replaced air filter
- New water pump
- Bled the coolant system
I also took it to the dealership and had them checked the PCV and the timing chain tensioner replaced. And of course their response was they couldn't replicate the problem. They also said if there's anything wrong with the O2 sensors, the IAC or the TB system, it will throw an error code. So they basically charged me about $100 to tell me there's nothing they could do and just put up with it until the check engine light come on.
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I have a 2010 Corolla S with 130k miles and started developing what felt like a slight misfire at idle. Dealer suggested change the plugs and if not that try the coils. So I got the wrong plugs givin to me there 5/8s not 14mm. I found a socket that worked and thought the old ones where the same as the new ones.
The 5/8 socket fell right in and knew it wasn't the right size after the plug wasn't tuning. Then I searched and found out there 14mm plugs. So now the socket is stuck inside the metal tube that goes into the head. I tried a locking extensions, long needle nose, hook with a slide hammer, pb blaster, heat, crc freeze off. Even tried spinning it as pulling up with an impact.
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I have a 2010 corolla s 1.8 liter. A couple months I started having a rough idle. It will drop below 600 for a second right at the point of stopping and then raise back up. While sitting at a light it will drop down and shake and then go back up. Had a couple people look at it including Toyota and they say it's normal. It did not do it a couple months ago so I know it's not normal.
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So originally I was told it was my front brakes going bad, which was the case. To address the issue, I replaced the rotors and pads awhile back and the noise disappeared for a bit. Fast forward a month or so ago and I hear an on-and-off squeaking noise when the brakes are applied. It does not happen every time. Usually when I ease onto the brakes to a slow stop.
Figuring it could be my pads going bad for whatever reason, I decided to check my brake pads and rotors again. No odd signs of damage on the rotors and by the looks of it there was still plenty of pad left. I then sprayed some brake clean assuming it could be dust but there wasn't much.
I have not touched the drums yet but I'm thinking it could possibly be the drums or a bad bearing? The car is a 2012 with 38k miles which is the reason I'm doubtful of it being a bad wheel bearing. What could it be?
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