Dakota :: When Coming To A Stop Engine Tries To Die
Dec 1, 2013
I just purchased a 05 Dakota with a 4.7 v8 auto trans and 4x4 with 88k miles.what I'm having a problem with is when I come to a stop the engine tries to die.it happens immediately after I stop pretty much the same time when the vehicles weight shifts. I have figured out the quicker the stop the closer the engine comes to dying. If I stop real slow like there's a cop behind me the engine might drop 100 rpms. But if I stop hard the engine has died a couple times.
What this could be I'm not a mechanic so I cant diagnose the problem. But I can pretty much replace any part once I know what the problem is. The only other thing ive noticed which could cause it I'm not sure. Is either my battery or alternator needs to be replaced. I know this because if my headlights are on and I put on my blinked the lights on my instrument cluster dim every time the signal flashes.
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I have an 87 longbed Dakota that I bought new. It's my work truck. Lately it has developed a chirping noise that I hear best with the rear slider window open. I think it is safe to say that it is not coming from under the hood. When I accelerate from a stop the chirping noise increases in pitch and frequency. The frequency does not change when the auto trans up shifts. There has been no noticeable out-of-the-ordinary vibrations, even at freeway speeds.
I have stopped driving on the freeway since the chirping became impossible to ignore. The chirping becomes less and less audible the faster I go as the pitch and frequency increases. When just starting from a dead stop, it sounds like a metallic scraping noise. Whenever I take my foot off the gas the chirping stops, even when still coasting, so it only occurs under load. It does not occur when the truck is stopped and the engine is revved.
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I have a code scanner which indicated that I should change the MAP sensor. I did that, and just for fun changed the idle air control valve and throttle position sensor. Now the idle is extremely smooth in park or neutral, but once I'm in a moving gear it's up to the same shenanigans, antics and tomfoolery I described in my original post: 96 Dakota SLT idles rough & stalls. So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drivebelt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
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So I have a 96 Dodge Dakota SLT 3.9 4WD. Anyway, it idles relatively smoothly at about 700 RPM in drive or neutral, but if I'm in a moving gear and need to stop, the idle is extremely rough. Usually, the RPM's will drop to near 0 within about 20 seconds of coming to a stop. It will typically recover and continue with rough idling and near stalling a few times, but within a minute or two it stalls. A few additional details: it starts right up again after falling, it doesn't make any difference if I start it cold and drive immediately or drive it for an hour before coming to a stop, the same thing happens. Anything that looked suspicious to me has been changed (drive belt, spark plugs & wires, distributor cap & rotor, pcv valve, idle air control valve, and, of course, the air freshener).
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I recently purchased a 2005 Dodge Dakota SLT with 50k on it. The truck is in great condition inside and out. I have noticed depending on certain days, different weather conditions that it will make a squeaky noise when going over the bumpy roads. First thing that came to my mind was the sway bar end links. I purchased them from NAPA and installed them. Still the truck is making this noise. What it can be? Almost sounds like it is in the rear of the truck but hard to actually pin point the location. I have tried with all windows down I cannot tell.
Sound is exactly like this video: [URL] ....
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Would the control on dash cause there to be no air coming out heater vents on floor. I can hear the blower very loudly in dash about in the middle air comes out dash vents and out defroster ducts. When you switch to heater you get blower noise but very little air coming out floor vents.is it the control or possibly a vacuum mother on a vent somewhere
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I am thinking about buying a family member's 1999 1.8T Passat which has an intermittent engine issue. Here's the symptoms: After coming to a stop the engine will sometimes bog down and refuse to rev when given gas. Turning the engine off then on again will set the engine back to running properly. The frequency with which this happens is random but it seems to happen only when the engine is warmed up. A local shop that looked into it couldn't find any issues but did report that there were no engine codes. Hopefully is something simple like TB cleaning or replacing items like MAF or IAC.
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I am getting a check engine light about every 4 days. It is stupid suff like secondary air, or catalytic below efficency... Is there any way to prevent the light from coming on over these faults? I think it would cost me some serious money to fix everything it needs to keep the light from coming on. As you all know, once you fix one thing something else breaks.
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Alright, so my battery is fully charged and there's water in it. When I turn they key, there is a rapid mechanical clicking clearly coming from the starter area, but no attempt to turn over. Stuck solenoid? Bad starter relay? Bad starter? Missing teeth on the flywheel? Seized engine? The Mayan calendar apocalypse?
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we had a shop replace a thermostat in oct 10, last week our truck started running hot so we put in about 3 qt of 50/50 coolant. it returned to normal temp the next day we noticed some foam coming out of the overflow. when we opened the hood it looked like a brownish/red color and is a thick foam. When taking it back to the garage they cannot tell what it is. They have tried to flush it out and say they put in 3qt of fluid and only get out 1qt. It can be chunky at times. What it could be?
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My engine (2011 gti mt ~2000mi) occasionally shudders when coming to a complete stop, just for the last second or two when I've thrown it in neutral. Is this something I should be concerned about, and to what extent.
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2009 Ford Explorer - 6cyl -4L - 36K miles. This morning driving it, I came to a stop sign and as I was braking, the idle starting going up (and up and up) to the point where I had to shut off the engine. When I restarted it, everything was fine and of course, I can't reproduce this. I have the shop manual and couldn't find an IAC valve on this vehicle which I'm assuming it doesn't have. I'm sure I didn't accidentally hit the gas (as opposed to the brake which I know I was pressing down on when it was happening). Years ago I had a different Ford which had the exact same symptom and replacing the IAC solve the problem.
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My mom gave me a 2004 f150 lariat with a 5.4l and were having an issue with the engine when coming to a stop the engine wants to stall out and runs like a bag of hammers and sounds like its going to explode then i give it a shot of fuel and it runs fine for a a while and then does it again. I brought it to the local dealer and he said it was either the vct or the cam phaser bank 2 so i changed both and it still does it just wondering before I keep getting intake cam sensor code retarded and a bunch of other codes but we replaced the cam sensor already.
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I hear a strange sort of light humming electrical noise coming from my (passenger side) headlight.
While driving in the dark, all of a sudden my headlights flicker intermittently and then the longer I drive they flicker a lot. I think all my lighting is effected (at least cab). Its so intermittent/quick that I was more concerned of losing my exterior headlights (dark outside then).
I've googled "dodge dakota headlight flicker" and I think I read it has to do with the cab heating (up?) and read some kind of hair dryer test and also the "central timing module" located at the drivers side kick panel. Several installed this CTM & from used junkyard CTM and indicated it was relatively simple. Price was inline with what the dealership indicated yet a couple of discrepancies:
1) the dealership parts person indicated it was located on the "passenger" side kick panel???
2) And there was programming required (my dakota has no keyless entry)????
Is the central timing module on the drivers or passenger kick panel? And does it require 'programming' (dealership)?
So, any way still researching and I saw another thread where a few dakota owners indicated they were able to get the lights flashing problem to go away simply by disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes. So before purchasing the CTM, figured I would try this.....
So began disconnecting the hot battery post......and this is when I noticed this very slight humming noise and listened closely and tracked it down to the passenger headlight. I kneel down on the ground at the passenger side front & pressed my ear within a few inches of the headlight and there "is" a slight electrical sort of humming noise (I disconnected the battery to stop it). I plan on removing the headlight & examining.
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My 06 Dodge Dakota, has a terrible racket coming from the front end when you hit a rough place in the roads especially the left side, seems worse when the wheels are cut, nothing is obviously loose ,it has 88K miles on it.
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03 xc90 with 83k miles.
Its got the "no oil pressure stop engine safely" light coming on when it gets up to running temps.
I am having my mechanic drop the pan, clean for sludge and replace all the seals and O-rings.
Which O-rings need to be replaced. I read somewhere there are 5, I bought the set along with the volvo sealant but need to give exact instruction to my mechanic on which seals to replace (he is not a volvo guy) and I dont remember which ones.
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I have an interesting issue that happened today after filling up on the way home from work. I have a 2011 Accent; 5 speed manual with 3900 miles. I filled up my tank and then topped off a little extra (which I now know is a no no) after the pump shut off. I put the cap back on, and after getting a cup of coffee, cranked her up and started on my way home. I drove maybe 20 feet and after coming to a stop, the car stalled. I wasn't sure at this point if maybe I let off the clutch a little too much. I started right back up and drove another 20 feet to a stop sign, and she stalled out on me again.
This time, after starting right back up, I noticed the check engine light was on, and if the car idled, it stalled. This is where it gets a little interesting. I was maybe 5 miles from the dealership where I bought my car. So I made a quick trip to the dealership to see if they could get the codes to determine the problem. After parking at the dealership, I turned off the car, removed the key from the ignition for about 10 seconds, and then started up again for giggles. The check engine light is now gone, and the car doesn't stall when idle. I have an appointment to get my oil changed, and am wondering if the codes can still be pulled?
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Is there a replaceable bulb for the check engine light? Mines stop coming on when starting the car. I think that's why I failed the emissions test. I didn't check with the attendant in the office to get an explanation.
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I started my car this morning and drove to work. It's not that cold. I heard knocking sounds coming from the engine at a stop light. I lightly tapped on the accelerator to hear it better. My commute is short (3 miles), so I gingerly cruised there. I didn't try to accelerate and it didn't seem like I was suffering from loss of power either. I opened the hood and let it idol at work and couldn't really hear the knocking sound.
I downloaded the code when I got to work. After that I started the engine again and it sounded pretty normal. I'm due for my oil/filter change (~5500 miles).
Here are the codes. Any reasons to worry, or is this an one-time thing?
2 Faults Found:
001322 - Camshaft Adj. Bank 1 Intake
P052A - 001 - Cold-Start Timing not Reached
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 01100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 1
[Code] ....
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I have an '02 Tracker and I've noticed if I have several accessories running, that my engine will start to sputter and come to the verge of stalling when I come to a stop. It happens if I have the heat/air and radio or charging my phone on together. What is the cause and/or remedy for this? I've changed the alternator a few yrs. back, but it still continued.
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It's a lite creaking clunk/shifting sound and only occurs in forward and when braking to a stop.It only makes the noise... when the brakes are initially applied.If the brakes maintain their engagement the noise no longer occurs.So... if the peddle is intermittently pressed when braking to a slow stop the slight shift/clunk noise will occur on each depression of the pedal.
The sound is located inside the engine compartment..guessing related to the brakes /or suspension components.If I were to take a stab at it's location in the bay.I would think it's loudest nearer the driver's side.I don't really hear it when I brake hard/stop abruptly.It's fairly audible within the cabin.I can't say it's a clunk... at least not fully yet but something has to be shifting slightly !? well maybe the front brake calipers/bolts are loose and the caliper is moving slightly... ? Or maybe a loose bolt on the suspension might be culprit.Could even be described similarly that of a dry coil-over seal compressing.but surely these struts/shocks can't have failed at only 30k ?I haven't pulled the front wheels off, yet, to inspect.
Very difficult for me to ascertain what might be moving/shifting while I'm operating the vehicle to make it occur.But I have to believe that fault lay with either the brakes or suspension.I'd also like to avoid the cost of a dealership diagnosis
some facts:
2010 LX
30K (well maintained/2nd Owner)
factory/everything original
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