My ABS light came on and my parking brake light as wellAlso my Speedometer Quit working all at the same time what happened?????I drive a 1998 Dodge Dakota 5.2L 4x4 5speed manual
View 3 RepliesRecently the ABS light came on (truck does not have ABS), also speedometer quit working and trans was not shifting right. After a few minutes the problem went away.
View 4 RepliesOccasionally while driving my 2005 F250 the speedometer will quit working & the abs light will come on. The transmission will also start to shift weird. If I pull over, shut the truck off & restart it everything is fine again. I can go weeks at a time before it happens again, but yesterday it happened twice. The transmission doesn't seem to shift real fast, but I think that is a separate issue. My first instinct is that the rear VSS is starting to go out, but I am not sure if these symptoms are common.
View 1 Replies2005 6.0 F350 dually, speedometer quit working and the ABS light came on. I replaced the speedo sensor in the diff, but to no avail. Hear a lot about the cluster, however nothing with the ABS light on.
View 3 Replies2002 Mitsubishi Lancer speedometer quit. How do I fix?
View 2 RepliesI have a 1998 windstar with a 3.8. I took my daughter Christmas shopping and noticed the car did not want to shift out of first gear. I shifted it manually to second and then DRIVE and that worked until I stopped at a light. I took off in DRIVE and the car did shift to second and third on its own but it shifted late and hard. Also, the speedometer quit working and the overdive light on the shifter just turned on by itself and then went out. By the time we got home, the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light was on. All these symptoms happened in a relatively short amount of time (5 miles). I suspect something electrical but am not sure. Is there a speed sensor fuse on these cars?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2007 Hyundai Sonata SE XM (153K miles). The speedometer and odometer have quit working completely. The speedometer doesn't even move from zero, no bouncing around or anything. The odometer also is not logging miles. My transmission shifts gears just fine and the cruise control works as well. I bought an OBD-II scanner and no codes came up. My first thought was maybe the vehicle speed sensor, but everything I've found on that say the car will shift poorly and the speedometer bounces around.
View 4 RepliesI have an 02 GS with automatic transmission. The speedometer quit working and now the transmission does not shift out of 1st while driving. CEL is on but I'm waiting for a friend to come over and get the codes. It shifts into drive and reverse fine but I'm wondering if there is a speed sensor in the speedometer that signals the tranny when to shift?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1998 e-250, 5.4 4EOD/4R100. The speedometer quit working and with that came hard shifts. This happened previously (only with a blinking O/D light that time) and I replaced the VSS and then the shift solenoid and filter in the transmission pan. That fixed the issue for about 3 days. There were no codes in the computer.
For a couple days the speedometer would not work until about 15-20 mph, then it would work and shift normally. Now there is no speedo action and the shifts are hard at high RPMs.
In the days leading up to this problem I heard a clicking in the dash, seemingly behind the cluster. Kind of like a turn signal but a bit fainter. Before I go and order a cluster...is there anything else I should be checking for? I have no warning lights, and as I said earlier the O/D light is not blinking. We're converting the van to a camper for our upcoming honeymoon and tracing this down is cutting into the buildout.
So, my oil light comes on after startup like usual then shuts off. Anywhere from 2-5 minutes of the vehicle running light comes back on and does not shut off unless I restart the vehicle. Have changed oil pressure switch and oil pressure is reading in the normal range..
05 dakota with 175000 kilometres
My speedometer is jumpy, odometer quit working at same time. Shifts kinda hard going into 2nd and 3rd gear. I am at wits end. I have replaced both speed sensors, checked all fuses, and also tore dash apart checking the worm gear in the cluster. I don't want to take to the ford dealer. The truck got 172,000 on it but been very well maintained. I just don't think its the transmission. Its got to be something easy.
View 9 RepliesThe "Service 4 WD" indicator light came on and stayed on for about 5 miles this morning. I rarely use the 4WD function usually just using it on a dirt road to make sure it gets used. Would this indicate the need for a fluid change or is something more sinister afoot?
View 1 RepliesI was asked to look at this Dakota because the Brake warning light and the ABS lights come on.
I get no stored codes with my code reader, and upon test driving it I found that the lights both go off when you shut off the truck, but each time you start up and drive off....those two lights will come on the first time you hit about 30mph and then stay on until you shut off the truck again. Restart and the lights are off until you drive off and hit about 30mph again.
Backing out of the shop, stopping, turning around, down the driveway 50yds and stopping at the road....the lights stay off, even though I just used the brakes three times at least. Get on the road and hit 30mph and they go on.
The two fuses, one in the fuse block by the drivers door and the other (ABS) fuse in the Power distribution box test good.Both brake lights work at the rear as does the high mount brake light. Fluid is at the full mark.
I pulled all four wheels and drums on the back and inspected everything and everything looks good and the E brake cables are intact and working as they should. Brakes were replaced (not by me) and have a little wear, but plenty of material left. No leaks of any lines, calipers, or cylinders. Front rotors are not scored from a sticky caliper, they do have a little minor rusting but because it has been idle for a few months.
I have the same year and drive train in my Dakota. Their truck has about the same stopping power as mine, but I did notice that I did not feel the surging in the ABS as I feel in my truck. I tested this by traveling at about 40mph with the passenger wheels in the gravel and drivers wheels on the pavement and applied the brakes hard. In my truck I felt the surging, but not in theirs. Note that my truck has a tall cap and always carries an extra 800 pounds of gear in the back.Maybe the heavier weight makes my ABS kick in quicker, but I would think weight wouldn't matter.....one wheel is slipping...period.
On empty a week ago, filled 1/2 a tank, drove home no issue. Didn't drive truck for a week. Turned it on this morning (didn't warm it up) about 10 minutes into the drive anytime you tried to accelerate, the truck would buck. If you were idling or just had your foot slightly on the pedal driving at the same speed it was fine, it only bucked when I really pushed on the pedal to accelerate. The check engine light started flashing as well.
View 3 Replies2004 F250 Crewcab 4x4 5.4 automatic.
My speedometer quit working - stays on 0, my odometer stays on 271006.5 miles. Everything lights up, when I do a gauge sweep, the speedometer goes from 0 to full blast then back to zero. On the gauge sweep, my odometer states off all the code stuff like I think it's suppose to.
Anyway, I was lucky enough to get a speeding ticket - driving with the flow of traffic, with the police officer behind me for a mile or more. Pulls me over, explain my speedo just went out, he said he can't let me off but the judge might. So I'm trying to fix prior to a court date.
Here is what I have tried so far.
1. Replaced the VSS in the axle - no change to problem.
2. Replaced the sensors on top of the tranny (2 of them) - no change in problem.
3. Sent the cluster off to a repair shop - they said it worked when it left there shop - no change in problem.
4. Replaced the battery - thought it might have a dead cell. - no change in problem.
5. Unhooked the battery, turned on the headlights, waited 30 minutes, put it back together. (did this probably 5 times) - no change in the problem.
6. Replaced the diff fluid. - no change in problem.
7. Replaced the front left abs sensor on the hub - the existing wire looked like it had rubbed on metal - possible short? - no change in problem.
So far I've just been what seems to be time and money at it with no luck.
We have a 97 Dodge Ram and the park and dash lights have quit working. We have tried four new(not factory) switches with the same result - no lights. What else should we try?
View 5 RepliesWhen my gas light comes on during the day my horn blows every couple minutes at night time the headlights go from high-beam to low-beam every couple minutes. Also, my check engine light is on more than it is off
View 4 RepliesEver since the air cond compressor Burned up I replaced it now the keyless entry quit working along with the radio really every thing quit till I put the key in the ignition and once the key is in the ignition the radio still doesn't work.
View 6 Repliesmy 2001 dodge ram wipers quit suddenly in the upmost position. Then restarted, went back down and immediately quit in the halfway up position, right in front of my face. Of course, it was raining. I pulled over, pushed them down by hand (no action from the wiper switch on any setting). Checked 25 amp fuse in the dashboard fusebox. That looked OK.
Heard on a forum about the wiper relay (or relays, possibly?) under the hood. Bought a relay at NAPA., replaced it; still no response. The only other odd thing is that about 3 times, the ABS light on the dash has flashed (for a second) but brakes are in top shape & all other electric lights/switches work fine. The windshield washer works fine.
2000 Dodge Dakota (144K miles)just performed tune up (spark plugs, oil change, pvc, air filter, battery). Before and After tune up I am experiencing stalling at light after going over multiple speed bumps.
View 4 RepliesMy 2005 Dodge Dokota 4.7L V8 152,000 miles has an intermittent check engine light (CEL) code P0420 ('catalylst efficiency') that turns itself off.
1) 151,000 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer.
2) 151,948 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at dealer (Cat Conv).
3) 152,200 CEL on, code P0420, checked, cleared at local auto parts store.
4) 152,597 CEL on. No checks.
5) 152,815 CEL turned off on its own
6) 152,849 CEL on. No checks.
7) 153,137 CEL turned off on its own.
Twice in this time CEL has came on soon after a fill up from near empty.
Engine runs fine, 18-19 mpg highway.
Have seen numerous on-line reports of other possible causes:
a) base engine problems (coolant or oil) -- coolant temp sensor
b) Air inleakage -- air systems or manifold
c) Lazy front O2 sensor
d) fuel pumps
e) timing or misfire
f) what else? - (gas cap, other...)
What to check first or categories to eliminate?