Elantra HD (2006-10) :: Buzzing Sound Occurs When Changing Control Knob From Floor To Vent
Sep 9, 2015
I have a 2008 Elantra GLS with approx 60,000 miles. Recently, without fail, a buzzing sound occurs when changing the vent control knob from floor to vent and vice versa. The sound lasts for about 2 seconds and sounds like it may be coming from the area behind the steering column. All the climate control systems work fine and the buzzing noise only occurs when changing the vent setting. At this point it is just a nuisance as everything seems to be working fine, but in my searching of the forums can not seem to pinpoint what the issue may be.
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Recently the control knob is not working. No matter what position I select it to, it comes out the top Vents. I took it to the dealership And they said the cable is severed and would cost around 700 to replace it. I was wondering if the cable is one like a rod that pushes the controller or if it is digital. Also I was wondering if I could just the middle of the dash to get to it or would the whole dash have to come out. I could do it myself if I can get to it from the middle.
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My car is 2012 Elantra. I want to remove the fan control knob. It was easy to pull Mode and Dual buttons straight out. But I don't know how to get the fan control knob off.
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Car has 170k kilometers , just over 100k miles on it; GL model so no sport suspension. Noise occurs going over small bumps.
Stabilizer links are the only front ends parts that were changed so far(12 months ago). Can't feel any play in tierods or ball joints, even the struts don't show signs of leakage and bounce test seems to show they are still okay.
Noise appears to come from front of car ; but I hate guessing and throwing money away. Fished a few large chunks of gravel trapped in subframe cross member around steering rack; no change.
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When I turn the fan on, the sound I get from the vent is *tick* *tick* *tick* *tick* as the fan turns. Does the whole dashboard has to come out fix it? I am hesitant to bring it to the dealer & have him rip the whole thing apart just for the fan ticking, but it sure is annoying too. It started about 6 months ago here.
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My rear right speaker buzzes when sound comes out...I thought it happened mainly in cold weather but I think it may be due to the fact that the door keeps closing and opening...
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I have a 2008 Elantra with 78k miles on it. Yesterday, to my dismay, I couldn't get any hot air out of my vent. I have never once had an issue with the hot or cold airflow before.
My coolant level is good and the temperature gauge is a-ok. The air coming in was cold yesterday and cool today; it appears it's just outdoor air temperature (as opposed to straight up cold) that I'm getting.
I believe my radiator is also overdue to get flushed...not sure whether or not that has anything to do w/this.
Is this likely the blend door actuator? I'm no car guy but I've been reading a little. Also....looks like this part might be 40-50. How much do you think I should be paying for labor if this is fixed?
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I have been getting a buzzing sound under my hood, usually in cold weather that lasts a few seconds, happens after I go about 1-2 miles from my house, did online research and it might be my IAC valve getting internally dirty.
Could replace it for $50.00, some You Tube videos show people cleaning theirs on other brands of cars, can the Ford IAC valve be cleaned up with a little carb cleaner and cotton swabs?
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I have a noise problem on my dashboard ( or i hear like that) There is a sound which is really annoying when i accelerate especially on rough road.
Noise comes from dashboard in my Hyundai Elantra - YouTube
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For several months now, my 2007 Prius has been making an intermittent buzzing sound from the engine bay. When I first heard it, I thought I had hit the little lines they cut into the road to let you know you've drifted over the center line - the sound is like that, a low-pitched buzzing noise. Today, the check engine light came on as it was making that noise. I put a code reader on the car and got P1121, a bad coolant flow control valve. Wondering if the sound and the faulty control valve are just coincidental or if the valve might make that noise when it fails? And if not the valve, what the sound might be?
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I have this noise, and it has become very annoying as it occurs at the engine midrange rpms.
It is buzzing/howling noise that comes on above 2500-3000rpm, whether it is in gear/underload or in neutral/park. It is noticed most while in sport as it holds lower gears longer.
Electric aux water pump was replaced not so long ago. Have read about the wastegate rattle issue, but im not sure.
Took it to the dealer about two weeks ago for this and the tech said he could not even hear it on the test drive.
Here are some links of the said noise
Links: [URL] .....
2011 2.0TSI Tiptronic 4motion 170ps 55000km
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I have a 2012 limited (non tech pkg) and I want to see if my speakers are the only ones that have a buzzing to them during cold mornings? Once it warms up, the speakers tend to be better. I have the power bass on low and I usually listen to AM radio in the morning. Kind of hard to explain but there is a buzzing rattle noise when the sound reaches a high point. It isn't a constant noise but rather dependent on the sound.
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Turn on car and radio does not come on nor CD. The fan speed control does not work. Basically the main turning knob appears to be in-opt? Everything else appears ok. Says CD not available? There are the following symbols: -- -- on the screen where the radio station would display.
Is there a radio re-set ?
Main control knob ?
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Hearing a buzzing noise from under the head liner above driver and passengers head? just started when outside weather turned cool happens on cold start ups and while driving. My car is brand new 3000 km.
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Here's the short of it. 3rd time in a year the brakes on my 2005 SF (177K miles, 2.7L) have gone out.
The brake pedal is very soft and goes to the floor before braking occurs. Typical signs of a bad master cylinder.
The first time was a year ago. I bought a re-manufactured master cylinder, change it and bled the brakes. Worked like a champ and lasted 10 months.
To months ago same exact symptoms. I assume it was a bad re-man part. It's under warranty, not big deal. I do warranty exchange, bleed system, brakes return. All is good.
Less then 3 weeks later, brakes gone, same symptoms! This time I spend the difference and get a brand new OEM cylinder with reservoir. Replace, bleed, problem fixed. Brakes go out in less than a week.
I'm not leaking anywhere. Reservoir is to corect level. ABS light is NOT on. No chattering in brakes. Braking is smooth both when power brakes work and when not. No visible damage to calipers. I'm 99% sure there is no air in the system, but I'm going to try bleeding again. I have not put it up on a lift to yet to check all the lines.
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I originally wanted to change my shift knob...... but now, I am thinking of changing the whole thing to buttons.... *it's "fly by wire" anyways right?
as an example, how about fab'ing in the buttons from a tesla roadster? here's a pic ...., (it's a tight fit inside the car!)
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For about a year and a half I have had an "undiagnosable" noise that started as an intermittent metallic buzzing and has evolved into a constant whirring/grinding noise. The tempo of the noise increases when accelerating; occurs at all speeds and at idle. People say they know when I am approaching they can hear my car from about two blocks away. My regular 20 year mechanic checked transmission, replaced timing belt (at 65K; now have about 74K); all idler pulleys; checked alternator; He thinks is is the AC drive pulley on the compressor; Hyundai dealership did not know what it is; laymen have suggested is is a power steering pump, reservoir issue. Power steering fluid level is fine. Otherwise, the performance of the car is fine.
Engine is 3.5L V6; 2004, about 74+K
See more at: [URL] ....
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Starting yesterday I noticed that I could hear a sloshing sound when I turn the car. It sounds like pouring water. After some driving around my neighborhood I've found that I hear the sloshing sound ONLY when the AC is on and when I turn left. It also has a sizzle sound that reminds me of dropping bacon in a hot pan.
I laid down in the floor and looked up under the dash. It looks like there's a motor and it's leaking water. That doesn't sound like a motor should be wet...The motor type thing appears to be a cylinder and says Bosch GM-M on it along with some numbers.
The carpet mat in the floor is getting a bit wet as well so that leads me to believe that something under there is leaking water and I can assume that it's leaking onto something hot creating the sizzle sound.
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2006 Camry LE 4cyl ABS no stability control, rear drum brakes. The brakes stop the car, but the pedal does go to the floor and it doesn't brake with confidence.
Prior to the repairs everything looked normal (aside from one wheel cylinder, see pic) and there was no leakage. The fluid was at the proper level though dirty.
I replaced the master cylinder and did a complete fluid flush and bleed. I also changed the front pads (it was time anyway) and the passenger side brake hose. I was going to to both hoses, but I wound up snapping the steel line on the PS and spent most of the day dealing with that. I decided not to press my luck with the DS.
I might change the DS hose, since I already bought it. At this point the only thing left is a weak caliper or wheel cylinder seal, or a bad hose (though I don't see any visible bulging when brakes are applied).
My wife was driving on the freeway last week and she applied brakes but they barely stopped the car and the brake light came on. She was able to limp it home without incident but the brake light stayed on and the car was braking poorly. The next day I inspected everything and found no leaks, and the fluid was not low but it was dirty. I drove the car and noticed braking performance was lacking (though it was never great to begin with) but I never saw a brake light. The brake light isn't on at this point.
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In the sticky post on the LED lights and how to change them. I was able to open the radio and removed the 8 green caps that was covering the radio's blue LEDs. I love the result.But the front of the HVAC knobs still shows the retro cyan color. I think it's the same blue LED with the green rubber cap over it. I tried opening it but failed. I didn't want to break anything. I want to go back and take a look at it again.URL...(Yes, the neo wedge bulb on the HVAC position indicator (left-most; Off, Low, ..., High) is out, I need to order some more. Originally, they were orange I think. I prefer blue. The green indicators in front are working fine.)
I had the bulbs replaced more than a year ago, but now I'm tired of looking at the retro cyan color. How to open it without breaking the parts inside?After unscrewing and taking the center console out of the car, I am able to isolate the radio unit from the HVAC controller unit and open it to reveal the circuit board, but I could not separate the HVAC knobs from the board. I don't know if the HVAC are soldered to the board or not, so that's where I stopped.
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My check engine light has came on and I received these error codes
PO441 : Evaporative emissions control system incorrect purge flow.
PO 455 : Evaporative emissions control system pressure leak-large leak.
PO 446 : Evaporative emissions control system vent control circuit fault.
Also only my driver side fan is working, may be separate issue?
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