Elantra HD (2006-10) :: Heater Started To Blow Out Ice Cold Air / Check Engine And Battery Lights Came On
Dec 28, 2012
I was driving home on the highway, and my 2006 Elantra did the following things in this exact order:
-Heater started to blow out ice cold air
-Temperature gauge rose, dropped down, and then rose right back up to the red area and stayed
-As I was slowing down to pull over, my tachometer dropped to 0rpm
-My "Check Engine" and "Battery" lights came on
-The car completely died and came to a rolling stop on the shoulder
I am trying to find answers as to what has happened to my car.
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Push A/C button is always on green. The (air speed) 01234 button is also always on green. the Push button turns on and off orange whenever I click it.
Anyways, the AC doesn't blow any hot air... always just cold. I've adjusted the dial to red and have left it there for a long time... no hot air. Any trouble shooting I can do?
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Here's what I have. 02 X 7.3L 4x4.
Heater will work fine. Then out of nowhere just blow cold. I can turn it off then back on it'll blow hot for 1 minute or 20 minutes. Then out of nowhere blow cold again. It doesn't matter if I'm highway driving or city driving.
I'm kinda thinking it may be the door in the duct that's just closing. I real don't know.
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A few weeks ago I noticed a fluctuation in my car's heater. The heater blows really hot when driving, and blows cold when the car is idling or coasting. I read up on the forums to check the coolant levels, which were full since my last fluid change a few months ago. The next step seemed to be to change the thermostat. I changed the thermostat and the heater acts the same, and since then the car has begun intermittently overheating. The temperature warning will flash on for maybe about a minute, then go back off. I have been running the heater on full blast trying to keep the car from overheating.
This brings me to a couple of questions:
There's an arrow on the thermostat. Does this need to point toward the radiator, or straight up?
In moving the air cleaner housing to get to the thermostat, I lost two of the little clips that hold it shut. Is this critical?
If the thermostat is good, and the coolant levels are good, there's no air in the system and I don't have any leaks, what could this be?
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I can't seem to get the engine temp to middle range on the marker, but yet my heater blows "to me" hot air. Even while sitting in idle for extended amounts of time I cannot get it to "operating" temperature. I would think if my thermostat was stuck open my heater would blow either cold or slightly warm air. I have the 5.4L engine with knn air filter and no cats.
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I have a 2006 f250 and the heater will blow cold air unless you are driving in like highway conditions. If you stop or drive slow it blows cold air only. What is causing this???
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I have a 94 ford Taurus all of a sudden my ac doesn't blow cold and my heat doesn't blow hot. Also every now and again I hear a sound like an alarm clock coming from passenger side??
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2005 Elantra here with 120k miles
Problem: Not heat will come out unless
1) I don't turn on the Fan Motor at all. Very Nice heat will "bleed" out of the vents as long as there is no Fan on - on any setting.
2) Lukewarm heat will come out if I am giving the car gas or revving it. As soon as it goes back to idle or I am no longer giving gas it goes back to no heat at all.
Things I have tried:
Topped up the radiator and tank (radiator has been replaced)
Water pump replaced
No leaks
Thermostat is opening ( Upper hose gets hot, Lower hose stays cold for a while and then gets hot)
Flushed heater core with a garden hose.
Inlet hose to heater core is hotter than outlet hose but outlet hose is not cold to the touch.
Radiator cap has been replaced
Car does not run hot at all
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I just replaced the radiator in my 2001 Elantra and now the heater will not blow warm air. Also the temp gauge on the dash stays at cold.
I have replaced all radiator hoses ...
New thermostat
New thermostat sensor
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I have owned my 2008 Rx 400 h for just over two months now and at the risk of sounding dense, am I right in assuming that when you are coasting along without the engine running, the heater will start to blow cold air? Everything works fine until you lift your foot off the pedal. This is my first Lexus/Toyota and hybrid so I'm not totally au fait with how it should be working.
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My 99 grand cherokee's heater is broken - fan blows but only cold air. I've had two mechanics tell me its probably the blend doors and will be quite expensive to repair because it requires removal of dashboard. Looking for after market repair kit which allows for a DIY fix going through the glove box? Is this a good bet to try?
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Cannot figure out how to get the heated air to flow through the back via the rear vents. All I get is outside air. I cannot find anything about it in the manual. The dealer has no clue but is trying to find something on it. New 2009 Santa Fe Limited.
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So the heater on my 2001 f150 will only blow through cold air. I thought that I may have a heater core clog so I back flushed it with water until it was coming through clean and unrestricted but that didn't solve the problem.
Now, some things to note are a potential coolant leak. I can't seem to find one but I filled up the antifreeze about two months ago and when I checked it the other day it was more or less empty. I've filled it up again and I will monitor it for the next couple of days.
Another thing to mention is that no matter what setting I have the heater on (ie 'panel' or 'defrost') I get cold air blowing at the passenger side's feet. Is this indicative of a hose leak or something?
Also worth noting is that the intake hose to the heater core gets hot after driving but the outtake stays cool. This is why I originally thought I had a core clog.
Should I be checking my blend door? If so how to I access it?
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My wife started her 2010 Camry (4 cylinder) this morning and the Oil Pressure, Check Engine, and Check Battery lights were all on.
She turned the car off, waited and started it back on and the same thing.
I rushed our kid to day care and her to work before coming to work myself, I haven't had a chance to check anything.
I replaced the air filter and cabin air filter over the weekend and the oil was changed at the dealer 2 weeks ago.
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I took my 200000 mile Prius to a garage that is highly recommended and the mechanic stated that I need a new evaporator and expansion valve. He tested the car for a day. There was no time to do the fix so I arranged for a dealership that I trust to do the job. When they were ready to do the work, they detected no leak in the evaporator, but said that the compressor, expansion valve, and AC line needed replacement. (They showed me the leak in the compressor with special glasses.) After I called the first mechanic with the new info, he said that he could detect a leak nowhere, but, in the evaporator, and, at the expansion valve area. I am now stymied as to what I should do.
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2005 Honda Accord.
Problem 1: Now that is is finally getting below freezing and I am having to use my heat, and I have noticed that it will all of a sudden blow ice cold air. It does not matter if I am idle / accelerating / decelerating. I must provide a disclaimer... I have not had to use the heat in the car since I purchased it Certified Used from the dealer in South Florida. After moving back to where it actually gets cold I find this issue. I had my trusty mechanic look at it and he flushed the heater core. That is problem 1.
Problem 2: For about 6 months now my car has been doing this odd shaking routine. It happens probably every time I am out driving. When it starts to shake, I can prevent it from dying by revving the engine. It does not matter if I have just started the car, am sitting at idle or if I am driving down the road. No check engine light or malfunction indicator light has come on the entire time. It feels like the car just runs hard, not nice and smooth like it used to. I have brought my car in to the trusty mechanic three times now and he can not find any problems. I did notice this morning that while sitting idle at the stop light, my car had its little epileptic shake and then stopped and the RPM's dropped to 500.
Later when I arrived at my destination, while sitting at idle before getting out of the car, the RPM's were at 2000. I have routinely put in fuel injector cleaner additive when I fill up with gas... maybe once a month. I usually fill up with regular gas, but will occasionally fill up with premium. This whole situation is blowing my mind!
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Must have pushed the wrong button in the dark. Anyway, the TRAC button and the check engine light both lit when I started the car. (push button start). How can I get it off??
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I have an 05 silverado 1500 crew cab z71 and i have a little bit of an issue with my Check Engine Light being on. The problem is when I tried to pull the code from the computer it wouldn't even read that it was plugged in at all. I talked to a buddy of mine and he said that could possibly be the reason its on.
What I am trying to figure out is what i have to do to remedy the situation so that i can actually be able to pull codes in the future. My truck inspection is out and need this light fixed.
Also every once in a while my battery light comes on and it says i need to service my charging system also because I have never seen it before.
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To kick off the coldest week (so far) of the winter season, I noticed a problem with the heater controls in my 06 Explorer with manual temp. controls. No matter which fan settings I select (defrost, panel+floor, etc), air does not blow through some of the vents. I can hear the fan working and air flows through the defrost vents and through the floor vents, but the there is no airflow through the vents below radio and round vents on the far left and far right sides of the dashboard.
Perhaps related to this problem, a couple months ago I replaced the blower motor resistor because fan speeds 1 and 2 did not work, only 3 and 4 worked, so whenever I would turn on the heat or A/C, it was on full blast all the time. After replacing the resistor, the issue was resolved and all of the speeds worked well. I guess I just never realized the issue with the vents, or maybe the problem happened because I replaced the resistor?
Since I'm not too knowledgeable with the climate control circuit, I'm not too sure where to begin, perhaps the switch or blower motor?
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My truck shows check engine when i drive it cold but after i reset the battery, start and warm it up for few minutes i don't get the error codes
1. It says evaporative emission control system malfunction for the p0440
2. EECS incorrect purge flow for p0441
3. EECS Vent Control Circuit malfunction for p0446
I have 3 error codes and I don't know where to start?
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This and the check engine light came on when I started the car this morning. Its an 06 GS300 with just under 53K miles....
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