Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2013 - Check Engine Light / Bump When Accelerating Into Gear
Aug 18, 2012
So as my first post was about all the upgrades/mods I wanted to get recommendations on, it saddens me that my second is about my check engine light.
I've noticed for the past week a little bit more of a "bump" when accelerating into gear. This Friday, coming home from work the check engine light came on. Checked the oil and gas cap, everything seems ok. I'm taking it into the dealership tomorrow and will update with their findings.
I'm worried cause I would never imagine the light to come on so soon. The car is barely two months old!
View 21 Replies
Advertisement
I have a 2015 Hyundai Elantra Limited. Lately, the check Engine light comes on when I accelerate from a full stop and stays on for 3-5 seconds. It has also happened when I accelerate to get on the interstate (that just started today). There is no issue with the car accelerating. Everything else seems to be fine. It's just the Check Engine light that is freaking me out a bit. I've had the car since June so I'm not ready for any major issues. It started two days ago. I took the gas cap off and put it back on last night to see if that was the cause but it's still happening today.
View 2 Replies
I have a 2013 Elantra GLS with almost 200k on it. I am the original owner. I have only had a few small problems with it just replacing lights and had to replace the passengers side wheel bearing twice. the rest has just m=been replacing wear and tear parts. the check engine light is on because it needs 02 sensors. They are back ordered. The car started idling roughly and driving horribly on the way from Rhode Island to New York on Christmas day. A friend had a diagnostic machine and the code read misfire cylinder 3 p0303..I am assuming it damaged the catalytic converter and that I now need both the sensors and the convertor. I live about 7 miles from my garage. should I tow it ? or drive a t a low speed? Have to bring it in first thing in the morning. What else could be wrong?
View 3 Replies
I just purchased a 2013 Elantra GT, 3 days ago. I was driving down the highway and my check engine light came on. There is only 480 miles on my car! I know it's not a gas cap. I haven't even put gas in it since I drove it off the lot. Is there a way to check for the code thrown without a scanner? I use to have a jeep liberty and I could click the key over 3 times an the code would pop up.
View 24 Replies
I'm due to leave at 6am sharp on Friday morning for that pre-planned surprise 50th Bday celebration I've been talking about for my wife. This evening I get in the Elantra to pick her up and when I started the car it began to shake VIOLENTLY, like I was in a commercial dough mixer. WTF!?? I saw the check engine light was on so I shut it off immediately. Curiously, I had the car out earlier without incident.
I restarted the car and it ran smoothly this time, but the check engine light remained. Calling the dealer, I was able to get a 9am appointment for tomorrow morning. I don't have an OBD-II scan tool to check the codes, but based on the symptoms, and recent poor gas mileage.
View 31 Replies
So the check engine light on my '12 with 5K miles came on 2 days ago. Called to make an appointment at the dealer for tomorrow...and today it goes off. Is it relatively safe to fore go the appointment and see what happens? I don't think it was related to the gas cap.
View 2 Replies
I just bought a used 2011 Elantra GLS and am having some issues that the dealer cant resolve. What is happening is the the Check Engine light comes on and off. It will be on for a day or so, then go off for a day or so, so I am thinking its the gas cap. So I tighten that thing up as good as I can and pulled the negative battery terminal and problem solved. About 2 days later, and about 200 miles later on the same tank of gas, the light pops back on. So I call the dealer and took it there the next day.
On my way to the dealer, the light goes out. They try and pull the code, but the ECU is showing nothing. I asked if the ECU stores codes and I was told that when the light goes out on its own it clears the ECU of the code. Not sure if that is true, but that is what I was told. So I drive the car home. I fill the car with gas, drive about 100 miles and the light comes on. I call the dealer the same day, take it over, and on the way like the car knows it goes off and guess what? Dealer cant do nothing.
Now to make a long story longer, this is what I know. The car is not a CA car. It was sold in GA and was a prior rental. It ended up in CA and was sold as a certified pre owned from a Hyundai Dealer, I actually bought the car from a Mitsubishi Dealer and they dealer traded for this car (thats another long story) the carfax does show that it failed emissions but passed after several attempts. Which I thought was odd on a ULEV vehicle. Since I liked the car so much and the price was good, I bought it since it did pass smog eventually.
Once I get the car home, I do my usual thorough look. I clean everything to my standards. I am cleaning the engine compartment and took the engine cover off. 1st thing I noticed was the Spark Plug Coil Packs all the 10mm bolts that hold them in were loose and 2 of them were completely off!! So I decided thats odd, so I pulled the plugs out and they were the NGK's so just in case I put a brand new set of the NGK laser Iridiums back in and tighten everything up. Then I notice where the PCV valve is on the valve cover, the hose that goes to that to the intake tube does not look stock. The hose looks like fuel line hose that someone put on it and the clamps are not stock. So I am canvasing for OEM replacements of those parts now. Then when I was installing the mud guards, on the drivers side rear tire where the gas filler tube is I notice another non OEM clamp. So someone was messing with this area of the car too.
The car is averaging 26-28mpg's in the city and I have been getting 35-37mpg's highway so I don't think there is anything major wrong here. I believe that either the PCV valve hose is kinked and may be causing a fault, or that since it was a prior rental that people were over filling the gas tank and maybe blew the expansion valve in the gas tank, causing the fault. I have no way to prove this since the light goes on and off and clears the ECU every time I take it in.
View 7 Replies
So I got gas 4 days ago and today the check engine light came on afterwards. Went to auto zone to read code and it had to do with the gas pressure being slightly low (gas cap). So I got gas and resealed the gas cap. Well, it's been about 2 days since then and it hasn't gone off. Does it need to be reset or does it take more time?
View 1 Replies
My 2012 Elantra has 16k+ mi. on it and recently I've noticed a noise while accelerating. It typically occurs when first accelerating between 1st and 3rd. The sound itself is hard to describe as I am not a professional so it's hard to find the right words to give an accurate description. It sounds like something rubbing together or perhaps something loose. Any insight into possible causes for strange noises while accelerating on a car this young? It doesn't happen every time, typically when first beginning the drive and occasionally when beginning from a dead stop at a light.
View 19 Replies
Check engine light came on about 2 weeks ago on my 2013 elantra gls. I went to auto zone to get it checked and they ran a p2096, which is what I had almost a year ago. That was fixed by dealer software update. So, I thought that was what needed to be done, headed to the closest Hyundai and they found p2096 and p2196. They replaced the o2 sensor bank 1, under warranty.
However, the next day the check engine light came on, less than 24 hours. Brought it back to the dealer, they said everything was within the correct "parameters" and said the light shouldn't come back on. On the way to work this morning, the check engine light came on, when the car was in the exact same spot it was yesterday.
I'm thinking the computer doesn't recognize the repair and needs to cycle a few times but I don't know. I'm so tired of going to the dealership because they are obviously missing something if the light is still on.
View 31 Replies
My wife and I are new Elantra owners, car is just about to hit 9000 miles on it. I don't know when the noise started happening, but wasn't too long ago. My wife is okay with it, but as for me I find it rather annoying that the car is so new and already making noises. I call it a click but she describes it as a thunk.
Here's the details. The car is an automatic for starters. The noise mainly happens when accelerating from a dead stop. I'll be at a red light and when it turns green, I let the brake go and gently step on the gas and click...there is the noise. Its just a single click, loud enough to annoy me and loud enough that I could hear it when the radio volume is set to 12 or so.
It has also happened mid driving when I release the gas pedal to slow down without using the brakes. Right when I release it, I hear the click...once again a single click.
Now I have taken it to the dealer as a concern because that click wasn't there when I bought the car. They told me it was normal and after waiting 2 hours for a simple oil change to be completed I wasn't ready to argue with them. But I am getting to that point that I'm ready to argue with them, considering the car is so new and still under the warranty.
View 55 Replies
In the last month, my car has had an awful time starting on 2 different occasions. The first time it ran really rough for about 1 minute then was ok. The second time was the same but the engine light came on. Took it to an out of town dealer and he said it showed a misfire code but could never find anything else and all looked OK. Spark plugs?
View 4 Replies
I have a 2011 Elantra that I purchased brand new. Has over 60,000 miles on it. Had a check engine light come about year or so ago which was fixed with a software update at the dealer.
Check engine light is back on now. Steady light; it's not blinking. Brought it to my mechanic. Ran diagnostic and said the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced. P codes were P2096 and P2196. He ordered the sensor from the dealership and installed it. Reset my cars computer. I drove the car 26 miles and the engine light came on again.
Here are my questions:
1. Wouldn't my mechanic's diagnostic equipment tell him what the problem or all the problems were? Why would it tell him the oxygen sensor needed to be replaced when there seems to be another problem causing the engine light to come on?
2. Would the dealership have more insight into a check engine light system problem than a mechanic shop may have?
View 45 Replies
Is this a normal thing? I notice that my 2013 Elantra has a slight shudder when stopped in drive, most noticeable when the Air is on. It's not always there, but I would associate this with a low RPM idle.
Is this normal for these cars? It goes away when in park/N, and sometimes if I turn the air off completely.
View 14 Replies
I just bought a brand new 2013 Elantra! I love the car, but over the past week or so I have started to feel the car's transmission (auto) jerk when it shifts from 3rd to 4th gear. I feel the car hesitate somewhat when going from 3rd and then jerk into 4th gear if that makes any sense. The car has less than 1000 miles and it never did it when I first bought it. The transmission was always smooth until recently. Also, when coasting down the road I feel the car jerk forward when I give it some gas which also feels very strange to me!?
View 37 Replies
I got a new '13 Elantra GL sedan with standard transmission a month ago, and I've noticed that 1st gear is very "torquey" (always jumps when mildly applying or releasing gas pedal), and there is a very notchy shift clunk from 1st to 2nd, so loud you can audibly hear the gearshift change quite significantly. The torquiness occurs for about 1st-4th gears (It's a 6-speed), but the notchy clunk doesn't occur for any other gears except 1st, and I took my friend's 2013 Veloster stickshift for a drive the other day, and his 1st gear is MUCH smoother and less jumpy.
Also, taking off in 1st is a very delicate balance and I still stall it now and then, no matter how much I focus and practice. It also feels like it's sputtering on takeoff every time, unless I really slip the clutch (which isn't a good habit to take up). Slipping the clutch for reverse is necessary unless I want a very jumpy, very grindy and clankery (is that a word? lol) reverse.
Is this an issue with Elantra sedans in general for stickshift models, or is it a problem with my specific car? Should I bring it into the dealer?
View 10 Replies
While driving, the TCS light will flash and the car stops accelerating. Dry pavement, no bumps. I have to pull over to the side of the road, and shut the car off and restart, or wait a few minutes for it to stop having a fit.
I really don't feel save driving this car due to this issue. Is there a specific sensor that can be changed out or is this tied into the ABS and possibly individual wheel sensors.
View 5 Replies
I recently purchased a 2013 elantra.
I have noticed that there is engine vibration and noise felt in car and pedal when accelerating at around 2500-3000 rpm's before it shifts. Is this normal behavior? It just does not seem as smooth as it should be. I have only put about 600 miles on the car.
It has been very cold, but it does not go away after warming up.
View 10 Replies
When I was driving to school this morning my check engine light went on and I noticed that my car is running very rough (suddenly). I also noticed that the check engine light would blink when accelerating at a stop light then go solid again when driving. I drive long distances between school and work and I think I won't be making it to work later due to this issue. This is a Saturn Ion II 2005 and gets regular maintenance on time.
View 15 Replies
I have a trunk light that seems to work only half the time.... maybe less. It is a 2013 elantra limited and i have brought it to the dealership and had them look at it and was told that it worked for them every time.... would having stuff in the trunk cause an issue, possibly they emptied it out and i keep stuff in it? Looking for a wiring schematic or know where or how the switch operates?
(Also was intermittent with stock bulbs and replaced with the exledusa 6k LED's and still same issue... should i take that out as well and put stock light back in when going to the dealership incase they try to blame it on the LED? can they?)
View 20 Replies
TPMS warning light is sometimes on, sometimes flashes, sometimes off. Only 2800 miles. Checked your pressures @ 38 psi. Have had no tire issues, nails. Etc. Took to dealer today. Service advisor said too much air in tires. Lowered to 35 psi. I have doubts about their"fix". Time will tell.
View 17 Replies
